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La différence d'autonomie entre V8F et V8S est trop courte. L'autonomie accumulée était la raison de cette nouvelle production, mais ce n'est que cela, donc insuffisant dans ce métier face à la concurrence des autres marques. Je pense qu'il valait mieux doubler l'autonomie d'un V8F et arrêter la production du V10. Il était possible d'avoir 70 kms entre 18 et 20 kilos, en 16 pouces.

Seems like only one battery of both packs is working. Either one has internally cut off - don't know if this is possible? - or connections are off. This is not charging current but "used" current. Only newer ks show charging current. Ks18xl were just "in the middle". Some Ks18xl show charging current, some don't. Depends on motherboard and firmware version. As @ShanesPlanet wrote open the wheel.and check connections. If they are ok get the bad battery and replace it.  

Lots of threads about pedal mods. Have you tried the simple solution first? Buy some aggresive grip tape and just replace that on it? My mten is a little slick when shoes wet for sure. If aggressive grip tape doesnt solve it, I would probably move on up to studded grip tape. I would be carefull of drilling too much and installing studs, as the chinesium isnt so hot on these. Also be mindful that studs will eat those softie pads in short order, should you decide to place any in the center of the pedal. Fwiw, if you live near a skateboard shop (do they still have those?), it would be a great excuse to go and see what tape they have. I would imagine it won't cost much atall as its less than a board worth. Skaters would be amused by an euc anyhow. If you took tools to remove the pedals at the store, I bet they would even install it for you. Well, at least when I was a kid, things like that were common. Heck, browsing a skateshop and picking colors of tape was part of the normal rounds in between candy stores! Welcome to the nuthouse! https://prosperskateshop.com/ https://asgonlinestore.com/xtremegrip-studded-anti-slip-tape/?sku=TRACXG-2-01&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIw67SlMqG8wIVg3RvBB00eAF4EAQYAiABEgIkUPD_BwE  

Astounding enough to read about -20C and -30C temperatures. Even more amazing that people would ride an EUC at those freezing conditions instead of driving a nice heated car. Global perspectives are interesting, thanks.

That IS pretty bad mileage. A 4amp charger will taper down to a lot less .2/.3 amp as it nears end voltage. The reporting of the wheel to the app is not always VERY accurate, but it should be in the ballpark. I would suggest watching it charge and noting the end voltage when the wheel disconnects on full charge. If you are getting it to near top voltage but are getting horrible mileage, it could be a couple things. It could be that one of your battery packs is simply not connected. This would explain why the wheel shows proper voltage, but charges too fast and you have bad range.  You could be looking at old and weak cells. Even if a cell charges to full, if it is weak, it is merely not storing the amperage it used to. Voltage and amperage are related but different. Sometimes cells fail and cant reach specified voltage. Other times they simple weaken and will get to the voltage but not accept/store much amperage. Kind of like having a teeny tiny 12v lawnmower battery vs a HUGE 12v tractor battery. Both are 12volts, but are VERY different in capacity. My suggest would be to open the wheel to simply check connections. If its used and offroad, you may want to do this now and then as maintenance. YOu know, check cables and screws and all that jazz. Pay close attention to the charging cycle and end voltage. We arent looking for exact, but a general idea. If it does eventually show correct voltage, maybe go for another range ride. You should be seeing 30-50 miles pretty easily on the 18XL, before facing throttling or being below 20%, and thats if you ride 25mph averages. If you have a charger with readout (my ewheels does), I can actually see the AMPERAGE that has been sent for a charge period. If a wheel doesnt take the amperage you are expecting, its again... weak packs or a disconnected pack. Also note, % of charge is kind of a guessing game. Voltage is a good number, but % is a formula of voltage. The problem arises in the fact there is NO EXACT VALUE that we can rely on, that means actual %. We can get close, but % depends on what you declare minimum voltage to actually be. Eucw lets you do custom voltages, and this can change what % is being reported. I doubt your % values are the problem, as you do mention poor range. I had my custom eucw voltages whoafully off once and it was telling me I had used 10% of my battery after 40 miles. haha, yeah right. Keep us posted and be very careful. If you are facing weak packs, you have lost a LOT of headroom and the wheel can easily be overpowered. Eventually weak packs can become BAD packs. Bad packs can become a hazard. Don't panic, it aint like its a bomb, and for now, we really cant jump to any conclusions.

I am pretty over my head with much of the technical electrical stuff. And I'm sorry if my question has been answered a thousand times. I have had my very used 18xl for a few months mostly doing off road stuff never any long trips. Last night I did a 10 mile trip starting at 60% and ended at 20% going about 20-25mph the whole time. Never really tested the range as it would be many days between charges. This seemed like extra bad mileage. I'm charging it up now and it is charging way too fast. I guess my question is, the app(euc world) is still saying it's going up to 100%. Also on the battery page of euc world I have never gotten any information besides the voltage in the top left corner. and on the main of the app the current while the charger says is 4amps the app fluctuates between .2 and .3 amps. I have no idea what I am doing or what I should do. any tips on the appropriate thread or any advice would be appreciated.

Global perspectives are funny There were times in my early adult life when I worked outside in temperatures that were below -30C. if my eyes watered at all from the wind when I blinked my eyelashes would freeze together lol Do a bit of a distance spit and it bounced off the ground haha I think @winterwheel rides in Edmonton, Alberta through the winter. It is routinely below -20C there in the winter. The fridge is way warmer than outside, so is the bloody deep freeze

I think it's a valid concern, when I ride in low temperatures (especially like -10℃ or below - winter in Stockholm / Sweden) I am a lot more gentle with braking than usual. I would find very useful to have temperature sensors which represent accurately the lowest battery cells temperatures. Then once back home, I'm always waiting a few hours to make sure the cells would warm back up before charging the wheel. Does the Smart BMS functionality include temperature sensors for the S20 packs @Jack King Song?

In my experience, if you start your ride coming from a warm place and don't stop for long, nothing inside the wheel gets below 10C while riding in around -6C outside temperatures.

Hey all, I've got a new mTen3, and my feet slide around so I'm thinking of drilling some holes in the pedals, tapping them, and putting in my own set screws or maybe upside-down track spikes (like from a cross country shoe) Has anyone else tried something like that? Is there a much simpler idea that I'm overlooking before I embark on this venture?