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Recent Posts (euc only)
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You know, we can make things always more complex, for example adding a pedal sensitivity or a pedal angle to the poll. It is often overlooked that some of this data already exists and has been analyzed in the past. We already know that most of the V11 riders prefer off-road mode, 67-100% pedal sensitivity, and hard pedals. However, we do not yet have information on what Split Ride Modes are riders using. This is what this poll is all about. Other data, provided by our riders, are for example available in here: -
Can you tell me how it feels with the 21700's? yeah, my MCM could have been a disaster. The first welding strips were not strong enough, so I did melt them down twice. But as I have two packs I the unicycle fell forward and then regained balance. it has been rock solid. It is pretty comfortable to even 40-50km rides, with chao yang tires, I don't feel battered.. But in terms of safety I am yet to crashed, out overleaning, or breaking in emergencies (I ride on HK's pavements), and sometimes I have emergency stops (not to hit pedestrians), and I will typically max out at 29km. I did get at times, some warnings on low voltage... Yes one bad thing that did happen is that the Gotway 16S BMS PCB's did fail in one of the packs, the wheel ran fine with one pack.... Recently I watched mrelwood's youtube video on charging to 80% vs balancing etc.... and realized that I had not charge the unicycle full for a long time. This time I charge it with another charger that is in my home and ever use. Much to my surprise that unicycle has vastly improved, it seems that my normal charger (charger to 67.2V) has only been outputting 66.0V... My other charger that actually did balance is also only outputting 66.5 or something, enough to trigger the balancing. Another thing I find after balancing, that even at low voltages it is not giving any low voltage alarms, also it is feels very beefy at 3x% capacity.... So I am now feeling a lot more comfortable without charging it when it it s below 50%.. I am charging less.... frequently. As the cells age and resist being charged at 4.2V and possibly drop below 4.09V, I think I want to just charge to 66V and balance manually with an active balancer to maximize the life of the cells. Right now I don't have balancing 16S leads, soldered in, but will add.... I agree the stock V8 is dangerous, I find it that if you break hard and you weigh 85kg+ you can fall on your ass, and the wheel will carry on. This happened to my friend and twice the wheel hit a person and he had to compensate them financially. When you ride on the V8, you need to consider its innability for do any serious emergency breaking.... allow yourself space to power break etc... or don't go fast. -
You guys are talking about - that batteries don't "like" heat. Lets say people are riding 32-35+C in summer. Add the heat that batteries make.. Maybe there's something also? Also charging in summer 32-35+C temps..
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@Tawpie Does all the green lights come on ? ( 16X ) -
A few randomly placed high voltage alarms like this one should be sufficient to catch a bad bms I think. (I'm aware that this is a LOW voltage alarm (useless), but there might be a high voltage alarm out there somewhere.) -
By Dosingpsychedelics · Posted
Wow full send @eucgirl everyone go checkout her YouTube channel she is awesome -
Bingo! There's another way to see it. The pack is relatively low-current for the wheel's power draw. An 1800Wh pack is commonly 4P and if it uses low-current cells like M50T it has about: 4x10A = 40A current. That's under ideal conditions. 40A is not a lot. The insane new RS134 that's on the way has only 3P and can do ~110km/h. You'd think those wheels would all go up in smoke but not necessarily. 3P is fine if high current cells are use. For example 3x30A = 90A. Apparently at high temp (50-60degC) these M50T low-current cells have even less than 10A output so there's thermal runaway when you pull relatively normal currents after the batteries have heated up. You could probably get in trouble with an EX.N 2700Wh if you torque it. Oppositely there are 4P packs that are run gently and will work fine. (Personally I wouldn't use other low-current cells like 50E if I were heavy or pushing the wheel.)
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By Mike Sacristan · Posted
I believe the notion of cell abuse is based on the LGM50T being called a 7.3A cell. All tests I have seen show it to be a nicely working 10A cell which performs almost identically to the Samsung 50e. Even at 15A. The updated spec sheet shows 14.4A at +10 to +25C. Then dropping off to 7.3A as they get warmer (or colder). It is hard to find proper tests with all the data we would want but it looks like there is a span of +25C before it goes down to 7.3A. These temps are easy to achieve at continuous load. Sure this would stress the cells performance-wise but the same would happen on a Master with Samsung 50e. The spec sheet for the newer LGM50LT show similar 14.4A / 7.3A. I have abused my Nikola and MSX much more than I have my EXN. The EXN is just prone to taking knocks on the edge of the shell where the BMS is. The same thing happened to my friend Thomas when his EXN fell from a plant pot that he was using as an EUC stand. Tipped and fell from a height of 20cm. There could have been damage before that though... all we know is that it was the last straw that broke the camel's back. I have seen plenty of the MSP HT riders abuse their wheels. They take the abuse until they don't. In comparison to them I baby my EXN. I will check with Sergei is the BMS is lying around somewhere. Sending it to someone for examination would be worth a shot. I was relying on the balancing to equalise any errors and figured it would be worth a shot. As this is the "hope" that we live by day to day. -
By Forwardnbak · Posted
I am always fearful of something going wrong in the update. sorry to those that have had issues. I was okay, I opened the app and followed the instruction and all was okay for me. Im using Iphone 13 pro adsl wifi connection I did need to pop the wheel on the stand before it would upload. -
Radially (middle) and its only really the "hair" that's rubbing. You know the extra stuff from the manufacturing. After that's been shaved off it becomes silent. It looks scary at first but I assure you I've got nearly 4-5mm clearance on my worn 2.5in tire. It becomes silent sooner if you lower the pressure. Avoid offroading or riding on debris until you've developed a bit of clearance. (few hundred km)
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