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electricunicycle.org has zero income and is not affiliated with any business entities. There are no fees for posting here. We are NOT responsible for any transactions made between buyers and sellers nor are we liable for the safety of whatever is being sold.
Same here. I have never scraped my pedals turning on my 18L/XL. I think @Scatcat was speculating about what might happen if we altered the shape and size of the current platforms to make more resemble the foot, and prevent toe and heel overhang.
Exactly, I found that I look down more as I mount when I wear my Nike boots. I have ridden numerous times with boots so, although it is not preferable I know it's doable for me for the winter months when riding in very cold temps. When my toes go numb from cold the plat feel is numbed anyway; better to adapt my habits than freeze.
Absolutely, changes in shape and size will create new challenges to resolve in order to make the platforms work on the wheel as effectively. Raising them slightly and increasing the dihedral on the bottom half might neutralize the possibility of more scraping without diminishing comfort. The goal would be to avoid a ridiculously sharp and uncomfortable dihedral on the entire plat like the MSX
Just a Question...do you have a 18L or XL? The pedal height is as high as on the MSX...i have both...
Even if i try like crazy, i am Pretty much not able to touch the pedals to Ground :-) MSX/18L...doesnt matter.
ALL Kingsong wheels Show up with 2 different Bluetooth tags, as one is for the Music and one is for the Wheel/app.
While there Maybe some wheels existing that have a not so good Connection -this can mostly be fixed by laying the BT antenna on the board a bit different- very often Connection Problems come from the Android Version or the specific phone. It is no secret that newer BT low Energy versions are not the highlight of Google development.
About a year ago i allready tested -several- Android 5.1 Smartwatches, where you are able to install wheellog and also the GW and KS app. None of those watches was able to make a stable Connection to whatever Kind of Wheel...tested on my KS18S and GW Tesla at the time which both had a rock Steady Connection to my phone. Thats mostly as -first the Signal strength of These watches are much lower than phones and -second Bluetooth waves are not able to travel through human flesh, so having a watch around the arm allready builds up a small obstacle.
So i dumped About 300dollar in Smartwatches ...just because i wanted a speedometer on my arm so much….About all 15-30 seconds the Connection was gone and when i had one for a short time, the Speed wasnt updated as fast as on phone app.
I am very curious to see the results here with this Watch OS or Android wear, whatever it is called….hopefully it is better than on Android 5.1 Smartwatches.
Thumbs up for the developer …..when this all works out i am first to buy a Watch OS watch :-)
. Right It was freezing cold and felt like the wind gusts were shot from a canon when they hit you; doable, but very unsettling.
All of riding riding comrades amaze me. You guys will ride through hurricanes, tornadoes, floods, earthquakes, blizzards, packed snow and ice. I ride paved trails and streets that feel like a dirt trail in the Rocky Mountains.
Yes Scanning takes very long time (but in our company I see approx. 100 BT devices, so it can be also impacted). It could change when we will be able to save "My Wheel". It can then filter just this one.
But I have more Connectivity issues now. If finally name of my wheel apears and I catch this second.... Reloading app, restarting wheel. Takes minutes and when screen finally appers it randomly disconnects sometimes.
I shut these wear os watches down until new version. I don't plan to use it for anything else then this app. Wearing back my iwatch is for me as teleporting forward in time ;-)
But still I think it is great result for the first version of the app.
Two additions to the post above:
With low pressure while dremeling, I mean _really_ low pressure, low enough for you to be able to compress the tire a bit with your fingers. Any higher and the rubber won't "give" enough to make the dremeling, nail drilling, mounting sequence smooth enough. Basically you shouldn't compress the rubber while doing this, you risk damage and it's harder.
The Best-grip 1000 protrudes 2.3mm and goes 6.2mm into the rubber. Compared to the thickness of a 18x2.5" (KS18) & 18x3" (MSX) standard street ChaoYang-tire, the thickness of the rubber in the tire is somewhere around 7mm (estimated), inside that rubber thickness is the cord and anti-puncture layer.
When the stud is all in, there is barely a single millimeter between the end of the stud and the cord. As the screw part has a diameter of about 6mm and is shaped a lot lice an ice-drill, there is a significant risk that the single millimeter of rubber will be penetrated if the stud gets hit sideways - like at low pressure hitting a curb. If that happens, all that is between the tube and the sharp edges of the screw is the cord and puncture layer, which overall is better at stopping puncturing forces, rather than cutting forces.
If you want to test if the rubber is thick enough for the screw in studs, try one on the tire and start screwing it in while holding a finger on the inside where the stud is. If your finger starts to feel the movement of the screw under the cord, you're too far in. There should be no feeling of movement and most certainly no bulge where it went in.