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RagingGrandpa

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About RagingGrandpa

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  • Location
    Michigan
  • EUC
    MTen3; 84V MSX

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  1. The use-case I'm interested in is staying compatible with group rides when the other riders have 2000wh+. Being the low-capacity guy in a group just sucks, but I love my wheel and don't want another one. Oh really? Do you know if the charging input goes through your board, with your old EUC? Gotway does not, so the only possible harm would be exposing the pack to increased ripple. And there's already severe ripple coming from the ESC, so it's hard to imagine the DC-DC making it much worse... Nobody else?
  2. The observations are perplexing... Gotway BMS (even in older wheels) includes undervoltage charge-stop protection. It should not let you fully recharge the pack if any cell is less than ~2V. It is possible to bypass this protection by 'charging through the output' - which would require different connectors on the charger, is inconvenient, and dangerous. In this case, were you ever able to confirm the pack voltage with a manual measurement? (e.g.: at the capacitor leads as @Chriull suggested) Thx p.s. I agree that if you purchase a new wheel and it arrives at 1V/cell, that pack is not considered "new condition" and you are owed a replacement.
  3. Carefully check the voltage of the charger output. (Undervoltage = bad charger.) Carefully check the voltage at the charging connector. (Undervoltage = damaged circuits in the wheel.) If you don't know how to carefully measure voltage, ask for in-person assistance from someone who does. "Teaching yourself" on a huge battery pack is a bad idea. More here.
  4. Yup. Bypassing the EUC's pack is very risky- if your backpack cable pulls loose, instant crash. I've ridden a onewheel this way, but only at low speeds on easy surfaces. Fast offroad EUC riding... risk. I think Charge&Ride is only the same risk as riding at 100% SOC. The usual guidelines apply- don't descend a mountain if you're at 100%. I average a 1kW discharge rate with my MSX while riding. It's difficult to envision a 1kW-output C&R backpack (excessive heat dissipation), so while underway I still expect a slowly dropping SOC for both packs. I appreciate the flexibility of being able to use a backpack at the beginning of a ride, depleting it, then leaving it in a parked car and continuing the ride. And similarly, picking it up halfway through a ride. Both are possible with Charge&Ride systems.
  5. The third pin is a safety ground, which is not used in double-insulated appliances such as your Gotway charger. Some plug adapters use the 3rd pin, but it's optional and won't do anything for your charger.
  6. I think I know the surface type you're talking about. Not bike paths, not even hiking paths, just access paths for farming equipment and livestock. Sorry mate, lumpy fieldgrass is a surface that's awful on almost any machine. If it's bad on a mountainbike, it's bad on any unicycle. I think you'll need to adjust your expectations.
  7. Your charger is compatible with UK mains power. You just need a plug adapter - international plug adapters are a cheap and common item at local electronics stores and online. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Travel-Power-Plug-Adapter-USA-us-EU-EURO-Asia-to-uk-United-Kingdom/252047484973
  8. Similar to KS-Power, another commercial solution example: https://carvepower.com/products/portable-charger-for-onewheel-v3?variant=32236465029168 $375 for 480wh, 58.8V output (Z10 EUC). Roughly 350W output power, which sounds useful. More info in the ow wiki.
  9. Searching showed very little content here regarding wearable batteries... Thread from 2016 for DIY charge-and-ride Thread on backpacks for cargo (not batteries) Kingsong's 780wh "KS-Power" charge-and-ride battery bank (not in-use yet) @sbouju and @atdlzpae - what do you use with your MSupers? Thx
  10. I'm a believer that a backpack battery is an attractive solution to "more range," because you can: Keep the wheel you have (save money vs buying a new 2500wh+ wheel) Keep the wheel light (easier to lift; ride & handling differences) Use the backpack only when you need it (option to ride wheel-only, or extra-range, depending on your mood) This is especially relevant with the emergence of the small-battery suspension wheels (S18, V11). If you want a 40+ mile all terrain ride without charging stops, an auxiliary battery is needed. If you're already doing it, please reply with a summary of your setup! (Do you like it? Pros and cons? What pack is it? How do you connect it? How do you recharge it?) Some clarifications on methods: Parallel connection: ("Vamp-and-ride" is the futuremotion jargon...) Using an auxiliary pack that has the same system voltage as the wheel. The external pack voltage (state of charge) must match the wheel voltage, before connecting the external pack. Failure to match voltage properly will damage the packs or blow fuses. A high-current input connector must be added to the EUC. (Typically the charging port is not sufficient.) The external pack must remain connected to the EUC for the entire ride, and will deplete at the same rate as the battery in the EUC. Charge-and-ride: Using an auxiliary pack that has a current-limited output voltage, the same as the output from an AC charger. The auxiliary battery pack can be of any voltage, but needs extra electronics to produce the current-limited output voltage that is correct for the EUC. The original charging port of the EUC can be used. (Relocated and break-away-style connectors are sometimes added.) The auxiliary pack can be removed and reconnected at any time, including during a ride. The auxiliary pack will typically be depleted before the battery in the EUC - an additional auxiliary pack could be swapped in at any time to extend range even further. The KS-Power is a charge-and-ride system, for example.
  11. Howbout a $1 aerospace-grade solution (safety wire)
  12. ** for a <100lb child ** MTen3 is a perfect training wheel for adults, many success stories with mine
  13. Glad you're ok! Road rash sucks! It underscores the safety-critical components in the EUC: there are things inside that must be in pristine condition for you to ride safely. If damage is found, good-as-new repair or replacement must be performed. If not, risk of cut-out and serious injury increases!
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