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mrelwood

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mrelwood last won the day on March 31

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About mrelwood

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  • Location
    Southern Finland
  • EUC
    MSX 1600Wh, KS-16S 1015Wh, (Airwheel A3, Ninebot MiniPro)

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  1. I think it looks funky in a cool way! The comment about old cars is spot on as well, the headlight assembly is indeed reminicent of the 50’s American cars. Just like @UniVehje commented about thinking about the V11 at every bump, I even lowered my tire pressure a good bit yesterday, down to 2.0 bars (18x3, 100+kg). Going over roots started to get lovely, and overall the ride was quite a bit nicer. If the suspension is more of that without severe drawbacks, I’ll have to jump aboard quite soon.
  2. KS themselves have mentioned that fw 2.0 can’t be used for personal tilt settings, but instead it must be calibrated perfectly level in all directions. One member used to calibrate to about 4 degrees, and the 2.0 totally lost the horizon when quickly turning the wheel 180•. I think he was able to make a one degree tilt to be manageable though. While the 2.0 will prevent the ”safety angle” the op uses, the new firmware also doesn’t dip forward nearly as much as the 1.x did when encountering obstacles. That’s why I felt that it doesn’t actually even require a preliminary tilt. I used to calibrate to a strong ”safety tilt” myself on my 16S. I like the fw 2.0 so much more on both the 16S and 18XL that I would just replace the pedal grip tape with a 40-60 grit sanding sheet to stop slipping, and calibrate the fw 2.0 to flat. Or maybe to a 1 degree tilt if it doesn’t behave too problematic.
  3. When switching back to the summer tire (ChaoYang H-666) on my MSX a week ago, I was not able to align it as well as I had last year. This didn't bother me much at first, but two days ago while slowly braking in a shallow downhill, I got the worst wobble I've experienced so far. It was really starting to get out of hand. Luckily I was able to slow down fast enough to kill it, but I definitely needed to address the dangerous issue. I deflated the tire, and pushed, pulled, bent, squeezed and massaged the tire to get it running as straight as possible. Inflated, saw that the issue remains, and repeated the process several times. Finally I got rid of the sideways movement, and took it for a test ride: Zero wobbles! While wobbles are usually caused by just beginner legs getting tired, there are situations when it is not.
  4. Oh boy! Besides seemingly a competing suspension already, and likely a 18x3” tire, I have zero expectations! Very exciting!
  5. Welcome, @Kryziss! I think the main reason for growing out of anything might be knowing that there are better ones out there. Just a few years ago I was happily cruising around with the Lhotz for six months, and I didn’t even realize that there are better EUCs available. Once I did, I was constantly reminded of the Lhotz’s limits, and I could only think how much better it could be. Had I not known, I’d still be riding my daily 8.5 mile trips topping at 15 mph. Powerful wheels enable us to do things and go to places where the weak ones simply can’t. Riding at 30 mph is very different from riding at 15 mph. There’s a lovely amount of variety to he hobby, but it also accounts for different and opposing opinions. My EUC hobby is a different hobby than yours’ is with your V8. That also makes purchase decisions a bit difficult, since it is hard to foretell what kind of rider you’d become with a powerful long range wheel for example. Every time I’ve gotten a new wheel I have sworn that I will only ever go slightly faster than on the previous one. And look at me now, riding quite aggressively and reaching 30 mph every time I ride. All the wheels you mention are great wheels, and every one of them could bring a huge amount of joy and become inseparable with your everyday life, for years. For me personally though, I would only have to choose which kidney to sell in order to pump up my budget for the 18XL. I wouldn’t spend a split second considering a 16” wheel for myself. For the riding you do now, obviously any of the mentioned models would do great. But if you got yourself a long-range wheel, would you become a long range rider? What about off-road? Or higher top speed? I think that’s what you might want to try and decide.
  6. The pedals on the V11 get much less stress from curbs and any other riding situation, since all ground events are now separated from the rider.
  7. mrelwood

    MSuper Pro?

    The terminology is the key here. Having more power or requiring less effort are two completely separate aspects. Being best is a third. And even ”less effort” can mean different things to different riders, as evidenced by @Rywokast. What we do know for certain is that the MSP has an astonishing amount of power, and also that the degree of lean required is only up to the outer tire diameter. On my first ride on the 16X I was able to compare it to my 84V MSX in a grassy off road hill. I was disappointed, since I was able to get up the hill on my MSX with clearly less effort, with better stability, and even with a relatively smaller lean. By ”relatively” here I mean that my huge custom pedal extensions and the generously raised sidepad fronts kept me in much better control, and further away from the maximum possible lean. A standard MSX would’ve definitely been a slouch, and I would’ve felt that I’m nearing the limit’s of how much I can lean without falling off the front. I swapped back to a more regular summer tire for my MSX. Suddenly the wheel accelerates with less lean, and is noticeably more agile and less stable. I hadn’t realized that the winter tire is almost an inch larger. If you want more actual peak power, get the MSP. But unless you have felt the 16X pedals go soft from a lack of power, the MSP will not climb any faster. It will require a stronger lean though. If you want to lean less, you need a smaller outer tire diameter, no way around that. If you want the climb to subjectively feel more effortless, you can try a softer riding mode, custom sidepads, and shoes that have less outer sole rise at the toes or a more rigid sole. Or anything else that could translate to better stability or confidence. Ah, the bicycle gear analogy. Disregarding the word ”effort” for now, I’m confident that the relative hub size wouldn’t translate to a different amount of lean required from the rider. 16” and 14” wheels both have the hub reaching the rim, yet the difference in the amount of required lean is perfectly in line with that of the current 18” and 16” wheels. If a more fine grained slow speed power delivery translates to a subjectively more effortless feeling, then sure, larger hub could affect that. But as you well explained yourself, the amount of effort is a subjective aspect, related to rider experience for one.
  8. I think that depending on the price, the 18(X)L is still the winner, for the reasons mentioned by @Rywokast. The 16X is a nice ride and even a bit more ergonomic than the 16X, but the difference is not too big. Perfectly understandable, but try to remember, your bad experience of a single faulty unit means very little in statistics. Dozens of good KS wheels are sold every day around the world. And the probability of getting a second faulty wheel is even smaller! If the seller claims UP to 12 weeks of repair time, my guess is that a faulty battery is easy enough to determine that it might not end up taking anywhere near that long for them to examine and replace the pack. Just a guess though. If you end up buying from Aliexpress, don’t get a KS from there. KS are pretty aggressive in limiting the features of wheels sold by unofficial distribution channels. Even long after purchase, since the serial number has a specific marker for that.
  9. The way I see it, your options are: - Return for warranty repair, and possibly be 3 months without a wheel. - Return for full refund. - Ask the seller if you can open up the wheel and inspect which battery pack is faulty. Remove faulty pack, take the faulty pack to the seller, ride carefully with one pack only as you wait for the new pack. Charge/discharge the packs to the exact same voltage, open up the wheel again, install new pack. The last option requires quite a lot of work for a new product, and might not be ok with the seller. But it would keep you riding. If you can get another wheel faster than in 3 months from somewhere else, I would definitely return the wheel for full refund ASAP.
  10. If you are not going to use the warranty for this, you wouldn’t really need it for anything else either. The battery packs are easily the most expensive single part of the EUC. The balancing current at least on KS wheels is very tiny. It has been questioned wether it is sufficient to properly even keep the balance of a healthy pack under normal use. If the charge stops at around 80V, I don’t think there is a chance of getting the cells back on track by BMS balancing. Remember that the wheel doesn’t know how low the individual cell group voltages reach under use. If the highest group stops the charge at 4.3V yet the pack total is at 84V, some of the groups probably never get above 3.7V. When the pack is at 20%, the lowest groups are probably below 2.6V. I think that’s when the almost dead group finally died.
  11. Not charging to 100% is a clear indicator of either a bad charger or a failed battery cell group. Several people have had it happen, and the search phrase ”not charging past” should find the discussions at the forum. If the charger is bad, it’s just not giving enough voltage. But since you already tried two different chargers, I’m afraid... The battery likely has dead cell group. If a group of cells doesn’t receive a charge, the BMS cuts off the charge when the first cell group reaches 4.25-4.3V. One cell group short of 84.2V is exactly 80.0V. Such wheel has lost a lot of range and power, so be careful when accelerating or hitting bumps and inclines! If the wheel is new, it is a clear warranty situation; the wheel you received is faulty. It may have been sitting with an empty battery for too long. I’d recommend demanding a new unit.
  12. I have! Every single time my teeth hit eachother while riding on the sharp dips made by horseshoes on soft dirt. Or when riding on the overly coarse new gravel laid on my favourite outdoorsy cycleways. And so on. The maximum pedal height on the V11 is something like 6.5”, so there is a bit of something to give away from. Besides, the dangerously low reaching side panels will be scratching on rocks, roots and curbs loud enough to make you forget all about the pedal clearance! @Mike Sacristan, they have been working on the suspension for a full year. I’m sure there has been time to try out a prototype or a few before deciding to manufacture it in large scale and sell it as a flagship product. I’m sure they have already scratched a few worst functioning ideas, toward which your doubts might well have been more relevant.
  13. How the diameter value of a tire that follows the bicycle standard (all standard EUC tires) is reformed, doesn’t really make it possible though. The Z10 has a custom order tire with a very low sidewall height, which lowers the outer diameter much below what these standard balloony tires are capable of. We can see from the photos that the V11 has a regular profile 18x3” tire, just like the one on the MSX. I’m sorry but if you are hoping for a 16x3” sized tire, you will be disappointed.
  14. I don’t see how an 18x3 tire could measure closer to a 16x3 than to a 18x2.5. MSX has a 18x3 tire as well, I’m pretty sure this will be very close in size. So a bit larger than a 18x2.5.
  15. I admit, I myself fell into the trap of the early hints and promises. Not much of a surprise that being optimistic about the hints eventually disappoints. We were hinted with at least 50km/h top speed, probably 56km/h. We were promised a wheel for (off road or) long distance riders. While I practically never pass 50km/h myself, past Inmotions allow the maximum speed for only a short while. And since the real life range would be around 50-55km for me, being throttled below 45km/h after the first 10km is not something I’d tolerate. Or even call long distance. 18x3” tire was news in 2018, MSP already has criminally bright lights that blind everybody else, and 2000W motor is even older news than 2018. There were far fewer breakthroughs or firsts than what I was expecting. The suspension really is a huge achievement from IM, even if it would be far from perfect. Also I do raise my hat to the brave and unique design. It does look cool in a little funky way. This is an important and long awaited addition to the IM line, and a big step for EUCs, since as we know, KS and GW are designing their own suspensions as we speak. 1600Wh has been the standard on 18” or 16x3” EUCs for a good while now. KS has 1554Wh, and by throttling only at 25% and running batteries to 3.0V per cell they get great range. A 1420Wh battery that throttles at 75% and is capped at 3.3V would be nowhere near comparable. We just don’t know the specifics yet. 3000W was the max Mosfet output power.
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