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mrelwood

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mrelwood last won the day on June 29 2018

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About mrelwood

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  1. I will surely take pics if I get myself to do it. Not sure I will though. The battery locations are what would force the rods to the front and back ends of the wheel, and I’m not sure if there indeed is enough space.
  2. Short of rigid support bars bolted securely inside the wheel, I can’t think of any. Perhaps not a bad idea though, I have some L-profile aluminium rod I could use... Hmm!
  3. I can’t compare the severity between MSV3 and MSX, since all wheels do that to an extent. The shells are made of just plastic after all. My MSX tire upgrade is 5mm wider than the original, and the tire indeed rubs to the shell when mounting with either leg. The original tire, when seated meticulously centered, didn’t do that.
  4. I did, and wrote first impressions and later a review in here:
  5. The 18L (not sure for XL) has been having it’s fair share of issues with the trolley handle lift recognition, causing the firmware to get stuck resulting in a shaking wheel or even an unresponsive wheel with the motor getting hot and requiring a partial disassembly and a battery disconnect. That said, most users haven’t had those issues.
  6. Not with my (lack of) painting skills it wouldn’t...
  7. Oh my god... My MSX had 13 on one side, 15 on the other. And it was way too much. The 16X will probably receive the same love/hate comments on the angle as the MSX did. What was wrong with an AVERAGE angle?! Like 7-11 degrees. The kind that doesn’t require you to tighten your shoes enough to cut circulation in order for them not to roll on your feet.
  8. I consider anything above 38lbs on the MSX a hard ride for my 200lbs. Can’t even imagine what 45psi on a 16x3” feels for you lighter guys. I’m sure you’ll find the difference very notable in your tests. It should be as simple as putting a properly sized 1mm thick steel plate between the pedal and the bracket. Bent at the edges, or metal epoxied to stay in place. It is bothersome to have to work on a new wheel, but for me there isn’t or hasn’t been a single wheel on the market that doesn’t have some aspect shouting ”fix me” to my ears. This is exactly how I always felt with the V10F, which limited my test rides to calm on-road riding.
  9. I see a slot. Didn’t the disassembled photos show the speakers exactly there?
  10. After talking with my brother yesterday, I’m pretty sure he’ll get the 16X eventually. He is a rather spontaneous person, so only time will tell when it happens though.
  11. One of the key points in using Charge Doctor may be the automatic termination of charging. I would think that it would make a DIY solution extremely difficult for most people. If someone decides to do it, there is clearly a demand in the markets as well!
  12. 16S, like almost all EUCs use an inner tube. You can confirm this from the root of the valve: If the valve stem just goes in an ample hole in the rim and can move a bit, there’s a tube. If there is a sealing blob of rubber or even a tightened nut, it is tubeless. For the linked product above, I would perhaps choose the Scooter & Dirt Bike version (red bottle). Or Slime. Or UK based Goop, which is more readily available in Europe. Whichever you choose, it’s a good idea to read a few comparisons, not to waste your time and money on failed formulas.
  13. No need, you can follow the thread from the button at the top (I think bottom on mobile) and receive the exact notifications you want. He has been quite tight lipped about commenting on it almost up to politicians’ standards... He joins the majority though in thinking that it should be a great wheel. All the best, mrelwood - The Unofficial Marty Backe Representative
  14. You can edit the post and cut out the duplicates, triplicates, ... , sextocates, etc. If one composes and sends a reply at any other than the last page of the thread, it looks like the post is not sent. But it is. And when one clicks ”send” again, it does exactly that, duplicates the text. So it wasn’t your fault!
  15. You might be talking about motorcycle vs bicycle standards. A 16x3.0 bicycle tire is the same size as a 2.50-12 motorcycle tire. They are (or should be) written a bit differently, but many retailers (especially Chinese) do not know the difference. That’s why one needs to see a photo of the actual label on the tire to be sure before ordering. I think very early 16X prototypes had the same CST C-1488 tire that is on the production version of the Nikola (and indeed the Msuper V3), but later 16X photos show the Chaoyang H-5146. I think the Lhotz came with this tire as a 16x2.50, at least at some point. The CST C-1488 has a very pronounced center ridge, so at least as a 2.5” version it handled a bit like a thinner tire. I would think this to be a great feature on a 3” tire. It is also perhaps the grippiest factory installed EUC tire on mud. The Chaoyang H-5146 was a comfortable and very stable ride as a 16x2.50, but growled a bit on pavement.
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