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mrelwood last won the day on June 29

mrelwood had the most liked content!

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About mrelwood

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    Southern Finland

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  1. mrelwood

    Finnish riders - Suomalaiset ajajat

    Minkä mallin arpa heitti? Veikkaisin että H-5102.
  2. mrelwood

    Witch wheel to buy for about 1100euro

    While the sellers can’t keep the 16S listed on Aliexpress, if you message the trusted sellers (Green Fashion, FEIER, etc), they will put it up there for a while and the price should be the same 950€ including shipping & tax. At least that’s how it was last year and still a few months ago. I agree that a local shop is definitely an added value, but considering the 16S, what would the seller have to do to justify an added value of 650€, about 70%? For that price I would gladly learn to use a screwdriver if I yet couldn’t.
  3. mrelwood

    Motorcycle wheel sized electric unicycle

    EUCs use bicycle tires and bicycle standards, so 18” EUCs have a 14” rim. A 14” motorcycle tire would actually fit. I suppose you meant ”tire being too wide”, in which you are correct. A wide tire / flat profile does just that.
  4. mrelwood

    KS-18L: Bigger Batteries?

    While I have yet to try the 18L, I’ve never quite understood the talk about top or bottom heavy wheels. I’ve ridden 10 different wheels and never felt it myself. What I do know is that 18” wheels behave differently than a 16” also in ways that were impossible to predict. What Jens described about turning on the 18L are natural charasteristics of an 18” wheel. While several aspects affect the strength of the effect, they are there with every 18-incher. Switching to a wider tire does some similiar things, and 18” EUCs all have atleast a 2.5” wide tire. It is possible it all wasn’t the effect of a bottom heavy wheel after all.
  5. mrelwood

    Wheels for heavier riders?

    Reported max load is one of the numbers that bear barely any weight in the actual wheel performance, or suitability to heavier persons. Just like the MSX and Z10 ”top speed” is 20km/h. (Z10 = 45, MSX = 60+) Look at the V10F: 2000W motor and an ”active” cooling system, yet it is one of the worst performers on longer hills due to overheat issues. Z10? Latest tech, largest manufacturer, but many riders feel it is unsafe on steeper DOWNhills even for an average weight rider. Currently the MSX might well be the best wheel to carry heavy weights uphill and in other rough conditions.
  6. mrelwood

    What do you do?

    I guess I’m at the 101st percent... which is why I don’t mind sharing my story. I’m on disability pension due to a later found genetic disorder, and I can no longer walk for more than a slow 100m or so. Can’t bicycle at all anymore. My inbound life was flipped around by the seated two-wheeler Airwheel A3, which after the first year had improved my condition, so I decided to build a similiar vehicle from two faster EUCs with suspension. I decided to quickly try standing on the EUC after all... 15000km later the A3 has broken down and the building project, while far from being ditched, remains only as plans on paper. Before forced to stop working, I used to work as a sound engineer, musician, and in musical instrument repairs. The latter has been quite useful in working with EUCs. Mountain biking was a long lasting hobby since childhood. I do ride the EUC mostly in the woods, on cycle pathways or trails, so a strong calling into the nature remains as a strong connection to MTBing.
  7. mrelwood

    New Inmotion V10 (V8 Fast)

    As a MSX and 16S owner I do feel that the 18L should the safer bet. Although MSX track record has so far been magnificent, there are a few aspects that reveal it’s not designed for the longest life. I weigh 92kg, and the power of the MSX is just stunning. I can accelerate stupidly fast uphill without a slightest feel of being close to the limits. I’m sure the 18L is in the same ballpark. The power we’re at nowadays, oh man! The 18L has a narrower body profile and tire, and might feel slightly more agile. But I’m sure the difference is nothing major. The MSX trolley handle location requires careful control, whereas the KS handle is a dream to use. For me there were a few things I had to modify on the MSX to make it suit me at all. I know the 18L is likely to work better for most people out of the box. That said, the 3” wide tire is magnificent, although not at all suitable for wet offroad. And the battery... 1000Wh and 1600Wh are not comparable. If you’re not looking to go for fast 45 (or slow 50+) mile trips or topping past 50km/h, the 18L might be the better one for you.
  8. mrelwood

    Vans for EUC riding?

    One thing to note indeed is the flatness of the sole. Some (running?) shoes have a strong upwards angle at the toes, some even at the heel. When you emergency brake or accelerate from a pot hole, instead of pressing the pedal you press on the air under you. At worst this creates a rocking motion and your heels lift up a bit from the pedals losing your balance. I have tried a few pairs where that is an actual issue.
  9. mrelwood

    Vans for EUC riding?

    Definitely go for proper shoes, but of course for ones that fit your feet well. What are usually considered good for EUCing is a rare combination of rigid outer sole but a well cushioned inner sole. Only some skateboarding shoes have proper cushioning, but good shoes might be found from shoes made for running, basketball or such. Or you can find good fitting rigid shoes from any category and replace the inner soles with a supporting but well cushioned one. Your feet positioning and the wheel’s horizontal calibration can have a great effect on foot pain as well.
  10. mrelwood

    My Z10 Triumphs, Tribulations, and Failures

    Chooch was able to skid and fall with the demo version while accelerating from a corner on asphalt. I’m not at all sure about this but I think the ground was wet. The rubber on the Z10 tire is hard, so I would be (even) more careful than with other wheels. I think this is one of the major things that other wheel riders will notice on the Z10, so yes, the effect of turning with the surface is quite strong. What should make it easier is to keep your legs away from the wheel body and let the wheel tilt when it wants to. Just keep your upper torso straight, and compensate if needed. Regardless how fluent you become with a new technique, it is still something you have to do more than with other wheels. I know my feet would get tired if I was to ride a long road like that daily. Of course that’s not to say other wheels don’t have their fatique points as well. 16S makes a bruise on my starting leg since the contact point is too low, KS pedals are so narrow that my feet start to hurt after 10 minutes, V10F pedal angle is so low that I have to squeeze my legs not to slide to the side, MSX riding modes are too stiff so I have to lean quite far forwards/backwards, and of course the original sideways angle on the MSX pedals makes it near unridable to me. And IPS Lhotz... Almost all of the above!
  11. mrelwood

    Auto balance problem

    Sure, the grit on the original pedals is quite tender. I cover my pedal tops completely with a 40-grit sanding sheet/paper. A guy at a local meet almost fell over when stopping with my wheel as he didn’t expect his feet to grab on that well! It has made all foot slippings an issue of the past.
  12. mrelwood

    MSuper X vs. KS18L: Has Gotway become 'safe enough'?

    Me neither, to me it doesn’t ride any more top-heavy than the 16S. Could be because I’m a tall guy (193cm, 91kg). I feel the balance between reviewing a wheel’s nimbleness and stability is always way off. Yes, it takes a bit more work to turn the MSX 180• in a 3 feet width, but everything else we do on these wheels is hugely affected by the stability of a 18”, including safety, as soon as we go past walking speed. Actually the MSX is more calm to balance with even below walking speeds. This must be a big-small guy thing as well. If the rumoured 18XL had been available in the summer, I think I’d chosen that over the MSX. But the first thing would’ve been to try and install a 3” tire. How and where I ride, it is that important for me.
  13. It’s really nice to hear a story so similar to mine! I have a genetic disorder that has shortened my continuous walking distance to about 100m as well. I’m having trouble standing still for more than 5 minutes. Yet nowadays I can ride non-stop for well over an hour. I can’t explain it either. Winter puts me down since no EUCing takes place. I agree with your findings on V10F vs 16S. The V10F is an oddball since it feels and behaves like an 18”. But when it comes to roots and potholes, the physics can’t be fooled. It’s still a (powerful) 16” wheel. Oh, I’d make sure the 16S has the latest firmware (1.08) and that it is in the hardest ”player” mode. They make a real difference in how well it manages obstacles. What has been a huge help for me is that I love to modify stuff to make them work better with my restrictions. In an EUC it is DIY side pads and way large pedal extensions. They have made a painless trip many times longer. I would concentrate on comfort in shoes. Get as much shock absorption you can find. Basketball shoes might have good ones. Another thing is the risk we take every time we ride, it is a lot larger than it is for healthy people. Even more so since you like speed. Get the best protection for your knees you can find, and since we can’t run a crash off as easily, for all corners and extremities of your body as well. MSX could be a great wheel for you as it’s tire really is extremely stable and comfortable. But the steep sideways pedal angle is likely bad for your knee and leg. If you don’t mind filing the pedals down and purchasing aftermarket side pads (or making your own), the MSX is a great option.
  14. mrelwood

    2007 E350 Ford van vs. MSuper cost per mile

    I’ve been trying to think about that. If I’d sell, I’d buy another 14-16 wheel, which I’d have to modify and make for the better as well. While my 16S cost only $1100 new, I wouldn’t even consider selling it for $300 (~5000 miles in). To me it is muuch more valuable. Proper charging methods and the few years shouldn’t tax the battery all that much in my understanding. Another point: Especially since getting the MSX with a big enough battery, my car usage has dropped down next to nothing. So, most of my car’s $/mile should be reducted from my EUC’s $/mile, which would turn it into an income! There are too many variables to be very precise with the calculations, but in case my attitude showed up wrong, I really like what you did here!
  15. mrelwood

    2007 E350 Ford van vs. MSuper cost per mile

    A few things that under-value the EUC here in my eyes: - Since the cars are also repaired by replacing the smallest part possible, a better comparison would be to replace the few Mosfets on the predictedly burned Msuper board. Cost: $2 + labour. - Predicting a maintenance cost of 12% of the vehicle price is quite steep. The old Msuper is notorious, I know, but once the first week is done the burned boards are still a rarity. - Would/did you really sell the Msuper for $300? Sounds alarmingly cheap. Unless you broke an axle or such it still has many many thousand miles ahead. Or atleast a price tag 2-3 times that. (Or am I totally lost on the used EUC pricing?)