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mrelwood last won the day on January 14

mrelwood had the most liked content!

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About mrelwood

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  • Location
    Southern Finland
  • EUC
    MSX 1600Wh, KS-16S 1015Wh, (Airwheel A3, Ninebot MiniPro)

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  1. I have to go by guesswork here, but none of the 2.5” tires fit in the 16S without adding clearance by lifting the shell. The theoretical .375” increase in width is 9.5mm, which usually increases the diameter by about 6mm. I don’t remember the original mm designation, but I do have a feeling that the designations are not precise enough to compare millimeters between manufacturers. For example, the 3.00” ChaoYang H-5102 on the MSX actually measures 2.75” (= -6mm) while even the ChaoYang H-666 measures close to actual 3.0” and is a very tight fit. The SY tire in the picure has the same pattern than a CST C-1488, and IIRC the brand is tied CST. So I do call it the C-1488. But the tire is long worn out and tossed away...
  2. Is this a EUC World requirement? I upgraded directly from 1.08 with the KS app a week ago.
  3. Ehdottomasti on! Suojat tietysti, mutta myös itse pintamateriaali on suunniteltu pysymään jotakuinkin kasassa vaikka vetäisi prätkän kanssa vaakapainia satasen vauhdista. Normivaatteet saattaa revetä helpostikin kun liukumista on takana vasta 5cm. Siinä on pikkukaatumisissakin iso ero. Jos se istuu sulle niin mun mielestä hae vaikka samantein. Tässä ei kuitenkaan niitä prätkävauhteja ajeta, eli suojaamisen kannalta takki ei ole äärirajoilla. Ainut ongelma mun prätkätakissa on melko kapea lämpötilahaarukka jossa sitä voi käyttää. Kun kesähelteellä nykerretään vaikeita teknisiä metsäpolkuja, vedenkestävä prätkätakki oli täysi mahdottomuus, vaikka siinä olis ollut miten monet tahansa luukut avoimena. En osannu tehä aikoinaan ihan ykkösvalintoja, joten mä käytän vuoden aikana neljää erilämpöistä ajovaatetusta.
  4. On the 18XL fw 2.0 thread I think it was Seba who said that it’s an upgrade portal bug that shows the 1.09 as the latest one. And EUC World has been said to host copies of the firmwares, so one should still be able to upgrade from there. As long as the upgrade feature is implemented by now... Not sure what to think though. It is common that KS pulls an upgrade from the servers in wait for a new version. I like the 2.01 very much on my 16S! I have started to do short visits outside almost daily just to get to ride the new fw!
  5. Sounds correct to me, although the actual top speed on a Gotway is up to each rider’s personal risk levels. The battery voltage sags and fluctuates a lot while riding. This is normal, and every battery does that. What differs is that some wheels report an averaged, smoothed and/or otherwise compensated battery level reading, while others show the direct voltage at any specific time. Just keeping the rider upright at 50+km/h is a decent amount of work for the wheel, fighting the air and rolling resistances, which both vary significantly all the time. 100% battery at no load (58km/h) dipping momentarily below ~60% (53km/h) with a rider does sound reasonable to me, although I haven’t tested the drop very closely. Gotway has themselves told us that the beeps play at the purely battery voltage based speed limit curves. I have no reason to doubt that, as I have yet to see contradicting evidence. GW also still doesn’t report the battery current, only motor phase current, which is pointless for the alarms or rider’s data logs. Yet it’s all the firmware is able to report. I seriously don’t think the firmware even measures the actual battery current. The MSX is a raw but very narrowminded bare bones wheel, down to the firmware. The behaviour of the firmware also feels extremely simple in all situations. Unlike the KS fw 2.0 for example, which I can easily feel taking the environmental conditions and riding situations in account.
  6. Yes. I’ve had several encounters where the police could’ve stopped me. But I think most officers are not familiar with the fairly recent PEV/PLEV law. And I of course rode with consideration and care, so I could not be seen as obviously dangering anything, and I hope that I seem as I’d know the legistlation myself. And I do keep it under 25km/h when police are around. But since the law doesn’t seem to be enforced strictly, I’d say that the situation for riders in Finland is fair. Quite a lot of bike paths even downtown, and cyclists or others don’t seem to get angry or annoyed at me. Besides, the best places to ride are secluded off-road paths anyway...
  7. All questions have already been asked and answered multiple times. Many people are smart enough to google for the issue, and they will likely land directly at the solution right here. Several orders of magnitude faster than to register and ask.
  8. You might have to change something in your calibration routine, since that is what will happen if the calibration is not perfect. The wheel has to be perfectly level left to right, as well as front to back. It also has to be perfectly still during the calibration.
  9. The new medium mode might be closer to what you have used to. We rode up to a hill on deep, soaking and mushy dirt/gravel, and our 18XL fw 2.0 rider had trouble keeping up. I tried it as well, and it was indeed hard. It was on medium mode. We switched to hard mode and the wheel was a lot easier to push through. 2.5 years ago I used to switch to hard mode on the 16S every time I went off-roading, and used medium on road. It was that much more stable when going over obstacles. I recommend you give it a proper chance, as the performance and stability are a good deal better on the hard mode. I prefer soft on MSX, and hard on KS.
  10. ”Reject the reality and replace my own”, or in those lines said one famous personality. I only installed WheelLog for the first time after 2 active years and around 14k km ridden. I haven’t started a single tour in WheelLog or EUC World, and have logged less than a dozen rides in WheelLog. From this data I can extrapolate that 10k WheelLog downloads means 140 million EUC km ridden globally in the last 3 years. or 47 M per year. If an average rider rides 1k a year, that would be [47k + iOS market share + non app users] active users worldwide. See @Aneta, we’re back at around 100k active riders! See, this is where your math fails. If YOU have several Android devices, that doesn’t make it average. I got my first (and only, and last) this fall. That doesn’t mean they don’t ride an EUC though.
  11. Luckily they are at least supposed to write differently: 14x2.125 is a bicycle standard, 2.125/100-10 would be a motorcycle tire of the same size. I don’t think that size exists in motorcycle tires, so you probably don’t have to worry about this. A straight valve doesn’t usually fit smaller EUCs, since already the motor cover is on the way. And the wheel cavity really is narrow enough that a straight valve very rarely fits. It doesn’t fit even a 16S, and seeing how tight the V8 is, I’m pretty sure the valve has to be bent appropriately for the V5F.
  12. Welcome! A few others have punctured their tires as well, so you will find a lot of info by searching the forum. Like bicycles, EUCs have a separate inner and outer tube. If the outer tube doesn’t seem specifically torn, you’ll be fine just replacing the inner tube. Suitable tubes (14x2.125, forward bent valve) are sold in most EUC shops. You can also buy a tube from Amazon/Ebay/Aliexpress, but take good care to choose a tube with a correctly bent valve, since regular valves won’t fit in the V5f. Once you have the correct tube at hand: 1) Open up the wheel to get to the tire: Search for videos or written guides on how to replace the tire/tube on your specific EUC. General disassembly guides will work too, just don’t disassemble anything you don’t need to for just a tire change. 2) After that it’s just like replacing a tube in a bicycle. Use enough dish washing liquid as a lubricant and proper steel core / plastic coated tire irons and you should have no problems getting the outer tube out. Don’t pull the tire out or back in with a screwdriver or anything else that’s sharp! You will likely puncture the new tube as well. 3) Before inflating the new tube completely, only put a bit of air in and rotate the tire. You’ll see that some sections are further out than others. Push and pull the tire so that the tire runs somewhat evenly, then again pump only a few pumpfuls and repeat the centering process. The last part is a good step to do because the EUC rims don’t have a pronounced edge to seat the bead of the outer tire, and it is easy to get it inflated a bit lopsided. This could cause thumping or wobbles, so it’s best to center the tire while working on it already. If you can’t find any guides, just ask and we’ll try to help you get started. If replacing the inner tube on a bicycle sounds like it’s way out of your league, you could try to locate a local EUC shop or other local riders that could help you out. Shipping the wheel to an EUC shop of course works too, but might be a bit costly.
  13. It seems that if the update doesn’t start in a few seconds, it won’t start by itself at all. I’d try first restarting the app, then the wheel as well. If that doesn’t work, try on DarknessBot (iOS) / EUC World (Android), or on a different OS alltogether (iOS/Android).
  14. Nice review! Just a sidenote, the original tire is CST as well, the C-1488. Which model did you replace it with?
  15. mrelwood

    MSuper Pro?

    If 7.3 A is the cell rating, it can momentarily produce much more current. Nope. Leaving out crucial variables makes the calculations not work. There are. Duty cycle, controller capacitors’ capacitance, motor effectiveness, motor wiring capacity, and max controller output power, for example.
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