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mrelwood

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mrelwood last won the day on October 16

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About mrelwood

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  • Location
    Southern Finland
  • EUC
    MSX 1600Wh, KS-16S 1015Wh, (Airwheel A3, Ninebot MiniPro)

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  1. Exactly. I’ve done the exact same mod on all three of my wheels so far...
  2. A learner wheel and going straight to the hornets’ nest may both be viable choices. Although, if you are a fast learner, the cheap wheel might be a wheel just for the first week, if even that. While I haven’t gotten to try the Monster, for many it seems to get a lot less riding than their 16-18” wheels. I would think that in order to push the need for a second wheel as far to the future as possible, one should go for a universal model. The best of the bunch being the llatest version of the MSX, Nikola, 18XL, or 16X.
  3. No, just piggy-backing to the existing ones, essentially modifying the two original 20S3P packs to 20S4P. A new BMS for the new cells might’ve been an easier and more robust choice though.
  4. Unfortunately, if you do have glue between the Mosfets and the cooling plate preventing any meaningful heat transfer, the mainboard temperature doesn’t tell you much about the temperature on the Mosfets, which are the ones that’ll blow first. 46•C is nothing to any part of the mainboard, and a typical overheat limit is 80•C. I don’t think there is any other way for you to know if your wheel is safe to ride other than to carefully remove the mainboard for a careful inspection.
  5. They should, but unfortunately that’s only in theory. Easily the most repairs I’ve had to do on my self-balancing vehicles has been replacing dead cells. Despite handling them using all the knowledge I’ve been able to gather from this forum and batteryuniversity.com, my 16S developed a dead battery cell at 5000km (100 cycles), and the other pack as well at around 9000km. And the Airwheel A3 battery was down to 30% of it’s original capacity at around 2500km (150 cycles). Luckily all that also votes for not stressing out about batteries. Balance charge them every now and then and don’t leave at 100% or 0% for extended perioids of time. If they die, they die, and there has likely not been anything you could’ve done better.
  6. I modified the headlight mainly to achieve a wider beam of light, since I couldn’t see a deer before it jumped right in front of me from complete darkness. I replaced the LED and was able to position it in the lens to get I what I wanted. The headlight has since suffered a bit so I’m replacing both the LED and the lens with ones from a similiar looking bicycle light I was able to find for $15.
  7. I’m not familiar with Hansolo’s layout, I just measured that 5 cells in a row mated with another 5 cells on top in the slots makes for a pack that is easy to fit four of in the wheel, and is easy to build. If the weather were still nice for riding, I’m sure I’d hurry building the remaining extra packs, but I’m in no hurry to increase distance for riding in near freezing temperatures in shallow rain...
  8. Vaihdoin syksyä varten MSX:ään crossirenkaan, jota aion ainakin kokeilla talvellakin. Tähän mennessä en ole vielä ajanut lumella. Gotwayt alkaa piippaamaan kun varaus laskee ajossa alle 15%:n. Eli alamäessä pystyy hitaasti kiihdyttämään 50km/h asti ilman piippiä vaikka akkua olisi levossa vain 20%. Mutta oon pikkuhiljaa ruvennu ajamaan loppumatkat piippauksista huolimatta vähän normaalimmin, virtaa on kuitenkin vielä niin paljon ettei esim 18XL vielä edes rajoittaisi nopeutta. Jahka saan toisellekin puolelle lisäakun rakennettua, ei pyörän piippauksetkaan pitäis vaivata ennen kuin omat jalat alkaa piipittämään armoa...
  9. My plan is to have a categorized and rather condensed list of issues and questions in a single thread (one post per sub-category), which I would add content to myself as more questions come to mind or arise. The thread itself would serve as a platform for everyone to request for and suggest content, but the sub-topics would be kept as short as possible with short single line answers and indeed links to posts where the subject has been discussed in more detail. I’m hoping it will be a more uniform format to follow and faster to find content from than an actual open wiki would in this case.
  10. I’m not so sure if this is a good method from any aspect. Looks like those pillows would take away the possibility to properly steer the wheel, which is the way one is supposed to seek for one’s balance while riding. And since they will cause friction when touching ground, you really can’t even take up any speed, which is another requirement to be able to stay on the wheel. I have a strong feeling that there might be one or more crucial and rudimentary things missing in your learning. If you don’t know or haven’t seen any local riders, maybe consider spending some more time on Youtube, as there are lots of videos made just to help people in the situation you’re in. Edit: Using a strap is another bad one, since it prevents most of one’s upper body motion. Moving the center of balance about and throwing one’s hands in the air is crucial in the beginning stage.
  11. On iPhone it is common that a wheel doesn’t show up within the app. Turning Bluetooth off for just two seconds fixes this. Worth trying at least.
  12. Funny you should suggest that! I fully agree, and I actually started writing a wiki on ”Common EUC issues and questions” several weeks ago. Unfortunately I’ve had to prioritize other things over this, so even when I don’t expect it to be 100% (or even 80%) finished when making public, I must still work with it before it will be of real use.
  13. Who wouldn’t want to ride 80km/h on 11” wheels while standing partially sideways on a narrow board?! Though I must say I really love the detailed specs on the horn!
  14. I would like to take part in the conversation, but @erk1024 already said everything there is to say, and said it well and in an easily understandable form. So let me just raise my hat for his replies.
  15. I’m pretty sure he used the same laquer/varnish/resin I use and also recommended to him, which is especially manufactured for coils, transformers and such electronic devices. Available in local stores for electronic components. I guess the 16S whine originates from the motor controller, although the sound itself is generated in the motor. Like an electric guitar and an amp!
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