Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


mrelwood last won the day on August 5

mrelwood had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

6,277 Excellent

About mrelwood

  • Rank
    Veteran Member

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Location
    Southern Finland
  • EUC
    MSX 1600Wh, KS-16S 1015Wh, (Airwheel A3, Ninebot MiniPro)

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. The TO-220 package they use already has a current rating of something like 170A, so it obviously should be way more than enough. I’m quite confident that wasn’t the issue here.
  2. There isn’t a single “proper method” that everyone should aim for. Our physiques, sizes and wheel models vary enough to warrant a range of ideal techniques. There are a few common aspects though. - Loose or no grip against the shell. Squeezing or hugging the shell limits your movement, prevents tilt-turning altogether, makes your feet tired quickly, causes instability on banked or grooves surfaces, and makes speed wobbles worse. (Edit: And also locks your safety suspension, your knees, in place!) - Precise front to back foot positioning. it’s common for new riders to stand too far back, which causes feet fatigue, and loss of control especially on inclines. Place your heels and balls of your feet equally far from the pedal edges for a better balance. (Some riders use offset positioning, which I recommend leaving for later.) Toes in or out depends on your natural posture and shoe size relative to the wheel model. Just remember that the point is to be relaxed. Stand on solid ground, spread your legs slightly, and keeping the heels down and ankles relaxed bend your knees ever so slightly. That’s the position you should aim for. A position that makes you feel natural, like you could stand there for hours. Because eventually you will!
  3. Oh right, the same stuff that Chooch used to make the V11 a jumper.
  4. Of course. That doesn’t make the suspension the most important part though, which was what I commented on. One aspect of a design doesn’t make the complete system superior. There are probably hundreds of posts already touting the better design of the S18 suspension, either because of unsprung weight or the progressive lineage system. Yet in practice it makes so little difference that the V11 with the “inferior” suspension design is still a better off-roader in some circumstances. Some reviewer mentioned them not being very soft after all, especially the part at the rider’s ankle. But sure, they probably fit most riders well enough.
  5. I’m not so sure about that. Two mediocre wheels means you only get to ride a mediocre wheel. Having a spare wheel does make some sense, but during the two years and 13000+ km on the MSX I have used a spare only once when waiting for a new control board. People who don’t try to climb their 210lbs torso up stupendously steep hills wouldn’t have needed the spare at all. You really don’t need to ask me if I’d have rather been without the spare vs riding with two V8Fs... V8F is actually a bit of a tough one. It’s way too expensive to function as a cheap learner when waiting for a main wheel, but it’s still a small, low powered and low range wheel. If it serves your needs and wants, you’ll be fine. If it doesn’t, your investment was not a good one.
  6. Wrong. We have used non-suspension EUCs for years for off-roading, some up to very hard core levels. That capability does not go away with advancements on new wheels. What is very well known is that for off-roading, especially on an EUC where even a small slip is often a cause for having to bail, tire grip is what makes or breaks the experience and capability. I was blown away the first time I tried a knobby on the MSX. Every other modification or feature you might add or upgrade to feels puny in comparison. Just today me and my brother ended up on a tiny forest path with a few muddy spots. My H-666 on the MSX is worn badly enough that it doesn't grip at all even in the thinnest mud. My brother's 18XL (C-1488, same as on the V11) did clearly better, and he was able to ride even over fallen trees still when I had to walk. Even the best suspension in the world wouldn't have helped me in the slightest. The slick H-5102 street tire on the S18 offers no grip at all on mud, and very little on other wet off-road conditions. Even less than my current worn out H-666. The crossover C-1488 of the V11 does much better in this regard. Switch the tires around and even I might choose the S18 for a tough off-road section. V11 has 8.5cm of travel. Either the S18 suspension execution doesn't match the design, or the design just isn't superior. The designs are different, both having pros and cons. On an MTB track Chooch was much faster and in better control on the V11 than the S18. That is indeed a downside, since they upgraded the shock after designing the wheel for single valve shocks. Although, I'm pretty sure that once I dial in optimal pressures a bit, I won't be pumping the suspension on the go. Btw, the top chamber on the S18 is not accessible either when in a riding setup. Some riders with a bit more meat in their calves find the S18 pedals too narrow, since they cant fit in properly to the recessed shapes of the shell. That's why DIY pads are being used by some on the S18 as well. Comparing the wheels on paper is one thing, having the option to try both (or even watching such comparison reviews) is way another.
  7. There are a few threads on the S18 and comparisons already, you should be able to find good insights on those as well. The consensus seems to be leaning in the direction of the S18 suspension working best at high velocity impacts and larger bumps. The V11 is said to enable a slightly smoother ride on rough roads and smaller deviations. Since the V11 beats the S18 in pretty much every other aspect (including customer relations), I would consider upgrading your purchase plan to the V11. Depending on your injuries, the lack of comfortable riding position on the MSX/P might turn out to be problematic. Also, several early V11 owners have mentioned that going back to a non-suspended wheel is problematic, since the experience really is that much better on a suspension wheel. That could make the MSX/P redundant if you already own a V11(/S18).
  8. I did, and got my 16S unlocked. We have since learned that KS only unlocks wheels bought before 2020.
  9. If you think that the V11 suspension system would not be suitable for off-road, you need to watch Chooch’s S18 vs V11 comparison. Nuff said. The weight difference between S18 and V11 production versions is 2-3kg. Compared to the MSX, the handle design being so much more comfortable, the whole wheel much more narrow, and the handle being higher from the ground make it feel not any heavier than the MSX, said someone in a review. I can compare it to the MSX tomorrow myself! The situation is that the first ever two EUCs have just reached the first customers. If you want a wheel with suspension, those are the options, or wait for a year in case better options come around. To me it sounds like the V11 is already much closer to your ideal wheel than most EUC purchases that’s been currently made. Yes it’s heavier than I’d like. But so many other aspects are spot on and many even beyond, that I’m absolutely certain that I will love the wheel like no wheel of mine has been loved before. Seriously, check the Chooch’s video. The V11 suspension could even be a better match to your needs than the S18’s.
  10. It takes a while for the adjustments to show, especially if the charger is not connected to a wheel. Definitely adjust them as close to the original position as you can, unplug the charger for a minute, then before connecting to a wheel measure that you get the exact same output voltage you did before any adjustments. As pointed out by @buell47, you can’t adjust the charger for what you hoped for.
  11. KingSongista puheenollen, @Zwheeler, en muista mistä ostit S18:n, mutta jos Alista tai muusta halpaportaalista, niin älä ikinä käynnistä KingSongin tekemää sovellusta! KS alkoi aktiivisesti lukitsemaan Kiinan markkinoille tarkoitettuja pyöriään, sekä uusia että vanhoja. Keskustelu aiheesta käy melko lämpimänä muutamassakin englanninkielisessä ketjussa.
  12. Doesn’t seem so. The handle is a part of the suspended structure the saddle is attached to.
  13. Those of you who are still on the fence about ordering the S18 (or any other KS wheel), you might want to take a look at the discussions on KS remotely locking up KS wheels, new and old. The discussion remains a bit heated, as the official KS representative has now commented.
  14. All 4 wheels I currently have are bought from Aliexpress. At the time of purchase there where no official distributors for any of them in our country. No warranty or support requirements, outside of KS locking up my wheel. Combined, I have saved about 2000€ buying from Ali. Only warranty issue would’ve been the 16S battery, but the warranty on batteries is usually just 6 months. The official KS distributor in our country: - Offers no repairs beyond routine stuff and has no stock on parts, so his customers wait even longer than the ones who ship their wheels to China (or wait for a spare part) themselves. - Does not have a store front. - Has not hired employees. Sorry but that is just ridiculous. In this very thread a community member bought a perfectly working KS wheel second hand, until it got remotely locked. “Shouldn’t have bought a P unit” is just ridiculous beyond comprehension. As if this KS’s arbitrary trickstery were or should be common knowledge when purchasing a second hand product. No, it’s an illegal move in many (if not all) countries KS does business in. “Don’t buy a KS if...” is easier and best remembered as just “Don’t by a KS.” I’m usually pretty tight on which parts of personal messaging I share publicly, but I now enter a gray area. Earlier in this thread I mentioned Jack claiming in a PM that KS doesn’t lock users’ wheels. He now asked me when had he ever said that. Well, it was June 9th, the exact wording being “we don’t plan on impacting our customers that way”. Plans change I guess. I take this as an official statement that KS has decided to make users’ wheels dysfunctional, no matter when they were bought. However, if it’s an old wheel, or if some other circumstances are just right, you can hope that you have read this thread and know how to try and contact Jack directly, and he might end up unlocking your wheel. What a ridiculous farce. Not a penny more. If you support this kind of (illegal in many countries) behavior, go right ahead.
  15. The actual positional and accelerometer data is already being used by the fw that controls the motor, so applying just an additional rule to shut off at an angle could be a lot easier than to have an additional parameter provided from the hw. Just wear ample protection.
  • Create New...