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mrelwood last won the day on November 30

mrelwood had the most liked content!

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About mrelwood

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  • Location
    Southern Finland
  • EUC
    MSX 1600Wh, KS-16S 1015Wh, (Airwheel A3, Ninebot MiniPro)

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  1. Sure. It has worked fine on the previous Msupers. It will ride and especially turn differently though.
  2. Damn. I’ve crashed a lot on an EUC.
  3. It does indeed. For the winter a softer riding mode also does wonders for the same reasons. Doesn’t help much with slipping sideways though. Hmm. I don’t quite agree. I haven’t crashed since about 9000km ago, soon after which I got my MSX. Not pushing the envelope isn’t the reason for me. Although I’m not counting in failing on very hard technical spots where my speed is lower than walking speed, even if my butt touches the ground. That’s just tumblin’, not crashin’.
  4. Holy moly, that is the sexiest and most awesomest Z10 on the planet! Absolutely magnificent! Why did you choose a 130/60 though? While bigger is always better, that is a freaking 5” wide tire! I would’ve thought a 110 or 100 mm wide tire would’ve been an easier fit. How’s the gyro effect on that tire? Does it switch ”modes” as abruptly at 10mph?
  5. So the additional leverage comes only from the pedals swinging slightly forward relative to the axle when the wheel is tilted backwards? The phrase ”Already some torque arm” confused me. This was an idea worthy of a few measurements. On the 16S, tilting the wheel 5 degrees back moves the front edge of the pedals 8mm closer to the tire front. On the MSX it moves 6mm. For comparison, my extended pedals surpass the front of the original pedals by 30mm on the 16S and 60mm on the MSX. I don’t think the small gain from the backwards calibration would counteract the cons. The original pedals on both of my wheels reach further forward from the axle when the wheel is horizontal vs vertical. Roughly 1cm on the 16S, and roughly 7-8cm on the MSX. The most forward position is somewhere in between, quickly guessing 40 degrees on the 16S and 30 degrees on the MSX. Maybe try those angles for a calibration?
  6. While that doesn’t yet give credit for experience in high voltage li-ion battery handling (the same phrase could be used to describe me), that is somewhat a relief to hear. At least the soldering should be good then. If you go on with the plan, I’d still ask for him to be sure to take enough steps to make the battery pack water tight.
  7. How come? Torque arm in relation to what exactly? The pedals will just stay in a position that requires more ankle flex, and hence give the feeling of less available pedal grip. Even a steady tilt-back works for reducing acceleration and speed, since it makes it harder to push for more. A fixed position of any angle doesn’t give an additional torque arm, the wheel will react to user input just the same. If anything, a very slight tilt forward might be beneficial instead, unless riding with a softer mode since it makes it easier to fall off the front.
  8. Do I see problems with your plan? Too many to count. Replacing cells or building a battery pack from scratch is a lot of work, and has countless danger scenarios and fire hazards, since you are working with live high discharge li-ion cells. Are you 200% sure your skills and experience warrant for doing something like this? If you were familiar with the dangers I’d think you’d have mentioned something about your experience level. You did not, so I can only assume. Are your soldering and spot welding skills at a level that you’d trust your life in them even after the wheel has been shaking and tumbling for a few thousand miles? ”If I replace them all”... If you replace one cell to a different type, you replace all of them. I can’t comment wether the cells you mention would be even suitable for an EUC. Besides discharge rates at least the internal resistance is a crucial factor. DIY battery packs are not cost conscious if you put even a slightest value for the countless hours it’ll take to make them.
  9. Big thanks to The Team to include me as a board member! I don’t see an issue in the calculation for what it calculates: foot positioning / amount of lean in a smooth incline with limitless grip. What the test with Petra and Simon would fail to do is cut down two major variables, so the actual results could be very different. Variables being grip and brains. In the entertaining Mike & Simon & MSX & 18XL video a primary concern turned out to be the lack of grip on a bumpy grass hillock for both Mike and Simon. How does the rider’s weight weigh the scales regarding grip? For a more precise test, Petra and Simon should share the same brain. Otherwise the result could reflect anything in their differing riding styles. I suggest we load Petra up with 40kg of additional weight attached tightly and evenly at the front and back of her body. 2 backpacks, 20 liters of milk/water/glögg in each would do nicely! I could also make the same tests, but as I’d be losing quite a lot of weight in between, it might take enough time for my riding style / wheel model / laws of physics / me being alive to significantly change...
  10. I ride very steep inclines and declines regularly on the MSX, and I’m certain I wouldn’t manage them without my DIY extended pedals and/or power pads. The control and stability is increased by a huge amount. The 16X is surely a different animal than the MSX, but for the few short tests I was able to accelerate uphill better on my MSX. If I was to get familiar on the 16X... I don’t know. Reading this made me think how do I do it on steep inclines with roots and rocks to slalom through. Indeed, I have my hands horizontally to the sides to give me counterweight for twisting. My knees are taking support from the power pads, which also makes tilting impractical. I never actually analyzed how I do it! A local rider liked the feel of my MSX enough to install actual shoe-sized pedal plates on his 18XL as well. It felt absolutely fantastic! Something to consider if you like to ride steeps. Just imagine what some additional 1.5” would let you achieve!
  11. The very same Chao Yang H-5167 is actually what 16X comes with now. It’s a great tire. If you haven’t already, I’d give the soft mode a proper chance on the Nikola. After a few thousand kms on medium mode on my MSX, I finally decided to give soft mode a proper chance and left it on for a few hundred kms. The way it can be used to assist in braking and accelerating made me want to learn to overcome it’s weakness in riding up very steep inclines on loose soil.
  12. @mike_bike_kite, your determined and organized dedication to learning is admirable! And you got the hang of things quite quickly. Now it’s just about riding more and more and more. Your confidence, riding speed, and requirements will likely grow until you can no longer stand the V5F... @Mono, any wheel can be used by any rider of any weight, as long as it is used in a manner that respects the amount of available power. Riding peacefully at 10mph on flat ground has never been thought to be of an issue, but that’s not what most people purchase a wheel for. If Mike or anyone else of our weight and height keeps pushing a V5F or a V8 hard when going above 15mph, or keeps surfing the top speed tilt-back, or fails to avoid a big enough pothole near the top speed, the wheel is very quickly overpowered. I rode my first year with a Lhotz and I was very happy with it for many months, despite having a top speed well beyond it’s power. I fell once and jumped off twice due to overpowering the Lhotz during what I now consider a medium braking. My older brother overleaned the Lhotz at the start of an acceleration and hurt his unprotected knee pretty bad. Never rode again. I never got the sense of being near the limits on my 16S, despite pushing it many times harder on many occasions. The danger becomes apparent if the rider’s confidence allows to comfortably ride at the wheel’s top speed. Which almost always happens with these lower powered wheels.
  13. Great answers from @RockyTop already! Some additional thoughts: I rode forward for 10000km before even trying to learn reversing. It helps a lot with balance when riding at walking speed, and on tough off-road spots. But it is an extra skill, not at all required. It might be a nice challenge after going forward for a year or two. This is an important skill! Practice as soon as possible. World is full of bumps. If it feels good, it’s good. But make sure the wheel has space to tilt sideways a bit between your legs so you can steer properly at low speeds. I rode 9000km on medium on the 16S, as it gets slightly better mileage than hard mode. The soft on the 16S is quite extreme though, I can’t see anyone preferring that. DarknessBot has a rudimentary GPS tracking feature, but the free Komoot tour planner (and maybe SportsTracker) is what I’d use. Komoot is magnificent for planning and navigating tours. An Android phone would let you use WheelLog which is great for wheel data logging, but DarknessBot can save data graphs as well. I think it is good to study a few graphs so you’ll understand better how your riding translates to power requirements for the wheel. As you might realise, exceeding the wheel’s capabilities always ends up badly.
  14. Heräs idea että käytäiskin vuorostamme tuolla pohjoisessa. Eli siirretäänkin huominen miittiajelu lähtemään klo 13 Rekolan juna-asemalta Vantaalta.
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