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meepmeepmayer

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meepmeepmayer last won the day on June 23

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About meepmeepmayer

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  • Location
    Rosenheim, Germany
  • EUC
    ACM 1300Wh

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  1. You can add your wheel or wheels to your profile. Just like your location, it will be shown next to each post (at least in Desktop view). Like this: Together with your (even just approximate) location, this is the most important info about you, so you're encouraged to add it. Do it even if you have no wheel but an upcoming one - How to add your wheel(s): On mobile: tap the "hamburger" icon (3 lines) in the top right corner -> account ->profile, and on the profile page tap the "pen" icon (see picture) to edit your profile. Add your wheels in the "EUC" field and tap "Save" at the bottom. On Desktop: Click your username in the top right corner and select "profile". On your profile page, click on "edit profile" (it is on the top right). Add your wheels in the "EUC" field and click "Save". Thank you!
  2. There's two components you can overpower: The motor, specifically the motor torque. This is strictly dependent on the speed. The motor has a speed where it has zero torque (the lift speed if you lift the wheel and let it run freely) and the torque goes linearly down to that. So the faster you are, the lower the available torque is. If it's lower than what you demand (like from a sudden pothole at speed), boom. The "80%" 3rd alarm (5 beeps - which is just a battery dependent speed alarm, as this thread showed) seems to be derived from the motor torque limitations. The top "lift" speed also depends on the battery charge (voltage really) so the 3rd alarm goes lower with lower battery. For reference, the Tesla lift speed is something like 70kph (guess). Unless you're very heavy (you're definitely not at 67kg) the 3rd alarm should very reliably warn you if you get too close to the motor limitations. A ton of people heavier than you (Marty included) ride with the 3rd alarm only and without problems. The battery. That mainly applies to small (2p or 1p) or very empty batteries. I think overleaning a 4p or bigger battery (like the Tesla) is extremely unlikely (unless you try). Especially on Gotways, which are still quite full at "0%", you'll have a really hard time overwhelming the battery. (I guess the combination of dropping voltage from a quick acceleration/pothole and running into the motor limitation at high speed can also occur, but I'd put that under motor limitation aggravated by the voltage drop.) Most overleans you hear of seem to be high speed motor torque overleans (= people over the official top speed of the wheel), and I guess some people are running into #3 (heavier people or small batteries plus some strong acceleration). As always, one can overlean any wheel by being crazy enough. Just don't do that 50kph is the official top speed and also the 3rd alarm speed at 100% battery (see Jason's post on page 1 - goes down to 39kph at 10% but there the low battery beeps already slowed you down). While I wouldn't go faster, you will be fine at it with your weight. Just never ignore the 3rd alarm if you hear it and use it as a guide for where the wheel's limits are (if you hear it at x kph, then a pothole or quick acceleration at x-2 kph is probably a bad idea). Looking at the numbers, 40kph seems like a no-brainer perfectly safe speed. The real danger at this speed really are non-technical crash reasons like that obstacle you didn't see This came up just recently: click. You can be perfectly safe with essentially only the 3rd alarm. Yes. Don't ignore your (possibly) only alarm. See above for the details. No. Tons of Tesla riders, no notable reported issues in comparison to other wheels. No. No non-misleading ones. The important thing: no brand wheel (Gotway or otherwise) is even remotely known for just cutting out mid-ride for no good reason. Otherwise nobody would ride it. - You seem to doubt the safety of riding a Gotway. To be safe, a wheel needs two things: Never cut out from sudden unexpected hardware failure. Wheels that people ride, Gotways/Tesla included, don't do that. Be as strong as possible. The stronger (higher top speed and bigger battery), the safer. The Tesla is much stonger than your KS (or the 16S for example), so it is much safer. Simple as that (Some people include their own behavior under safety. E.g. no forced tiltback at top speed or something counts as "unsafe". But that is about self-control, not technical safety.) The Tesla is perfectly safe for you. Especially you (always envious of the range lighter people will get).
  3. Moved to its own thread. Maybe @The Fat Unicyclist can help.
  4. See inline text. That Ron guy just thought it is a good idea to test the top speed of a wheel. Which can only end in one way. Beeps are there for a reason, and even then they are no absolute guarantee which is something a rider should be aware of (but unless you are very heavy or ride like crazy, the beeps are a perfectly good warning system)..
  5. Nice! Is there some kind of precedent where if I beat you in a duel, I'll get your wheels? Because I'm considering it
  6. Don't overthink it and post where you want. Here or otherwise. Worst case, everything can be moved
  7. You turn by looking where you want to go. The weight shift of your body does the rest (first method in the video). Alternatively, shift weight between your feet (second method shown there). What works better depends on the wheel (and what you prefer). The quick twisting (like a bicycle's front tire) is mostly for stability at low speed. As far as free-mounting goes: that simply needs practice. A bit like shown in this video. Just be aware you need to tuck your knee in so the wheel doesn't fall over until you have the second foot on the pedals. Starting from a wall is a perfect first step (because it's easiest). The rest just needs practice. And don't stress out by rote repetiton, you can just ride and everything you need comes naturally. EUCing is very intuitive. But of course some specific excercises help.
  8. It might make sense to ship a wheel without batteries so the heavy part is a normal package, and ship the batteries separately. At least if you want to follow all the rules. Still think those insane prices can't be right. - By pretending it's a normal package and not something with Li ion batteries? Did you ever see those standard battery stickers/labels on the shipping box? Do Jason's boxes have them? Wheel boxes from Ali? Plus bulk pricing for those "regular" packages. $100 for a 25kg package seems normal. My guess how everyone does it The full list I found: UN 3480 Li ion batteries alone UN 3481 Li ion batteries built into a device or packaged with a device UN 3090 Li metal batteries alone UN 3091 Li metal batteries built into a device or packaged with a device ("Battery" means an assembled pack, not loose cells. There might be some other rules for those.) I believe "our" EUC batteries count as UN 348X. There also seem to be two different labels and you have to use the one for >100Wh. The >100Wh one (applies to both UN 348X and 309X): Nobody hold me to that
  9. A very optimistic interpretation: the rumored V5 upgrade/refresh is near.
  10. There will be specific rules for Lithium ion batteries, so there should be no ambiguity. These prices are absurd that can't be right.
  11. The 84V has more torque though, going by real world reports Or at least it has more oomph/instant acceleration, maybe that's mathematically different from torque. Keep in mind that what the battery can do is not necessarily the real-life limitation, but mostly a theoretical one. Normal riding is like 10-15A which is far away from 40 or 60 or wherever 4p vs. 6p would make a difference. A 800Wh (3p) MSX would not feel different than the 1600Wh MSX, the firmware is the same after all. And the firmware determines how much power a wheel is allowed to draw until you run into the actual hardware limits at high speeds (which looks like it would be the motor or the shitty cabling). See the Nikola with its higher battery usage to get more oomph/torque, it's a firmware choice anywhere but at the hardware limits. So I assume (without further knowledge) the higher torque of the 84V is due to the firmware (and if it's only the exact same firmware resulting in higher torque for high current/low voltage vs. low current/high voltage). Would love to hear more info and speculation about this (torque) topic. I wish there was a EUC technical whitepaper of some kind.
  12. Awesome, great pictures! I love seeing cityscapes and infrastructure like this, especially from the other side of the world. Thank you! That V10 cover looks really nice Other manufacturers ar stupid not to offer covers for their wheels.
  13. Some magnet magic shouldn't be too hard? Electromagnet to push the pedals down (either replacing the permanent holding magnet or, better, used shortly to overpower it) and you move the pedals up by... umm... if the pedals are mounted with little resistance, some simple electromagnet should be enough, right? Can't be too hard.
  14. Nice detective work! Good choice. The tire is bigger which may be nice for commuting, and you can have it quickly.
  15. Does anyone know how this works? How do you control 3 degrees of freedom of the vehicle (ride forwards/backwards, rotate left/right, strafe left/right without rotation) with 2 degrees of control of your body (lean forward/backwards, lean left/right)? Is there an extra input beside leaning? The butt pads? Does it somehow combine strafing and turning into one thing that is controlled by the sideways lean? I'm talking principle, no details of the tire or anything (the tire is omnidirectional, right?). What am I missing? edit: Looks like it doesn't rotate, only goes forwards/backwards and strafes.
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