Jump to content

meepmeepmayer

Moderators
  • Content Count

    7,400
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    33

meepmeepmayer last won the day on March 20

meepmeepmayer had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

10,791 Excellent

About meepmeepmayer

  • Rank
    Veteran Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Rosenheim, Germany
  • EUC
    ACM 1300Wh

Recent Profile Visitors

4,820 profile views
  1. It's always a good idea to buy a wheel Unless you really need the money otherwise. (Btw I took the liberty and fixed the title.)
  2. Nice! Now you'll have to wait - the seller is European, but this is a China import. But since you're quarantined anyways (can people go out alone for sport an leisure in Austria like here in Bavaria?), you have something extra nice to look forward when the quarantine is over
  3. I have no experience with these shops in particular. There are quite a number of shops in Europe, so comparing prices is worth it. Others would be https://www.1radwerkstatt.de/ or https://eunicycles.eu/en/ for example. Just google for the model you want.
  4. It's such a shame that this isn't an official model - it's brilliant. A "small" wheel (nowadays), so it's light and nimble, but with great range.
  5. Some people have theirs coming in. You should be seeing some reviews and impressions in April (if delivery from China isn't interrupted due to the virus). It's an unofficial mod, the only difference to the normal Tesla 2 is the battery (it literally just replaces each 18650 cell with a 21700 cell). Weight should be about 1.6kg more than the normal Tesla (it's 80 cells, with 70g instead of 50g per cell - so 80*20g = 1.6kg more). Real range is 1480/1020 = 1.45 times that of the regular Tesla Charge time, you can do an estimate: 460Wh more, at the standard 1.5A of the 84V chargers (74V on average) that takes roughly an extra 460Wh/(74V*1.5A) = about 4 hours more than the normal Tesla. [That number feels too high, but that's what the math says - I'm not sure.]
  6. @EcoDrift has some pictures of a standard MSX, but with the new board from the MSP, as well as the doubled charging wires: click. Whatever that means for the MSX or a possible successor is beyond me
  7. Nice post! And nice stable of wheels, no time wasted there
  8. I split this into its own topic, you will get more replies this way. Welcome to the forum!
  9. @AtlasP If you want some administrative posts removed after the fact (like this one and the ones above etc.) to make this topic easier to browse, just say so. Mods are at your disposal. Thanks for your work!
  10. I took the liberty to fix it, but the original link worked fine for me, so I think the timeout was unrelated to this. But this seems to be the cleaner solution, meetup automatically adds your locale itself then (e.g. de-de for me). @AtlasP If the problem was that the original link creates an embed, this can be avoided by using the "link" button to create a text link instead of copy+pasting the link which creates the embed.
  11. I agree that probably all 1845Wh MSXes are this 84+16 - doesn't make much sense geometrically otherwise (unlike for the Nikola, for example, where it's just three regular 100V battery packs). To be fair, the biggest argument to "just buy a 100V" is the time, knowledge, skill, and courage (do not underestimate) needed to do the modification yourself. Which you clearly have, but most people don't have (me included) Otherwise, one might just argue people can spot-weld their own packs from the individual cells, so any conversion would be easy peasy. So you certainly have my respects, and the result seems to work out great, enjoy your 100V speeds - Extra question (food for thought, because why not make everything worse?): Would it be a good idea or not to mix "real" 100V packs and 84+16 packs?
  12. That's easy. With the voltage drop during riding, 30% no-load battery is where the ride ends anyways (battery beeps and slowdown under load). In addition, if you charge to 100% regularly (including keeping the charger in for balancing), shouldn't it be (mostly) ok? It appears that a lot of 100V mods are actually this 84+16 build. I'm wondering if the real-life disadvantages of this approach are overblown (like a lot of battery worries) and it is more legit than I initially thought. Maybe the future will tell more.
  13. Some people move their packs from their old wheel to their new wheel. It can be a good and cheap(er) way to always have a current wheel model (probably selling with batteries and buying a new wheel altogether is still better, but who knows). As for the 650Wh (or 800Wh) big Gotways, that's simply with one instead of two battery packs. So you can live with it or put in a second battery pack later. EUCs unfortunately are expensive, especially for non Euro/NA countries. But there's a reason these smaller wheels aren't really sold here, who wants a super wheel with a small battery if they can afford two packs (cheaper than to buy later). Even Gotway no longer lists these small batteries as official models. But I guess some sellers can still request them. Btw. you shouldn't mix a 650Wh and 80Wh battery. Different cell capacities (2900mAh vs. 3450mAh). I believe you're not supposed to mix cell types like this if it can be avoided. A cheap (everything is relative) 84V MSX or Nikola seem good options for you. If you're already worried about range and speed now, I don't think the Tesla 1020Wh will make you happy (and I don't think it will do 40km at 50kph). The 1480Wh Tesla won't be faster, too, so you have to know what the form factor is worth to you (it is a fantastic "smaller" wheel with great range if that's what you need).
  14. I think that's from some auto-translator.
×
×
  • Create New...