meepmeepmayer

How are mechanical brakes on a self-balancing vehicle supposed to work? Where's the difference to a blown mosfet that shorts the electronics and locks the motor in place, and you faceplant? What changes the rider's position so a motor stopped from balancing without rider input does not lead to an imbalance (= fall forward)? EUCs can't slow down on their own against the rider, how are brakes going to overcome that fundamental constraint? Anyways, pretty sure with today's powerful wheels, the weakness isn't the motor's braking power (torque), but the tire's traction. The more you lean back, the less force pushes down (and the more of it is horizontal) and provides traction. And if the tire slips, you fall on your behind. Bikes, scooters etc. can come to a stop on skidding tires. EUCs/self-balancing vehicles can't, that would be an automatic fall.

They are meant as ankle protection.

For a roller, you would technically need an insurance/license plate (which I think you may not be able to get, depending on the device) and a driver's license. Law is pretty clear there. So the fine might be bigger and you could theoretically have to go to court if you don't accept whatever €€€ demand they make, and argue there. Whether or not you get caught is another question, if you're on some bike path, what police car is going to stop you (and how)? Bicycle cops might be another thing, but I think they are just in the city center. Note: for an electric unicycle you (probably, nobody tested this) do NOT need an insurance/license plate (loophole for one-wheeled + self-balancing devices), but they may complain if you have no license.

There's an ACM2 and an MCM5. I wish there was an ACM5 from 5 years in the future

Just tested it again and the sudden spin up was indeed the tiltback. Wheel accelerates smoothly over the 50 with tiltback disabled. I thought the spin-up had been there with tiltback disabled, did this lift test a LOT, but looks like I didn't disable it after all in the earlier experiments (I blame the strangely worded GW app). Sorry. Actually, his is an astute observation. Suddenly push your weight onto your toes while riding (try it at low speed!), the wheel will rush forward and "overtake you" quickly, and you lose balance and fall back for a moment (that's why you should try it at low speed). Which I'm pretty sure is very similar to a sudden harsh tiltback at speed (never tried how that feels because I want to live). So in some way, you brake by pushing on your toes. Even though in reality, you brake by moving your center of gravity back (which also may involve moving your body back with some toe pressure). Guess the reason for some of the confusion (also with a lot of related topics) is that EUCs aren't just always in some "good" stable state, but are controlled by moving around that stable state in a dynamic manner and you can go some distance from that stable state. So e.g. the short-term but not-so-minor instability of the wheel quickly overtaking you is another way to control the wheel. -- As far as I've understood, the speed where the motor won't rotate faster is due to the induced back-EMF voltage reaching the input voltage. Maybe that's where the wheel stops, maybe they have a fixed, lower number because they know what follows. You could test that by seeing if the wheel shuts down earlier at lower battery (=voltage). I'm too lazy to do that experiment, but if anyone needs something to do... Ridiculous that we can't just ask GW exactly what alarms there are and how they work.

It's a science Small thing: at 50km/h (or some other speed, 50 on my ACM) the wheel does rapidly spin up to 65 (on ACM) to save you, and then shuts down (if it can't, like while lifted).That's when the continuous beeps play. I'm not 100% sure this "that speed where the wheel goes crazy" alarm is the same as the 80% alarm. Going 50 while lifting is not overstressing the wheel the slightest.

The noisy motor was replaced, he built in a brand new motor.

@Jimmy Charalampidis

How about this used Kingsong KS16S? A much stronger + bigger battery wheel than what you'd get for the price when you buy new, and good price ( it's >1500€ new). Not sure how good a V5F is for a 100kg rider. Maybe it works? https://www.speedyfeet.co.uk/collections/electric-unicycle/products/inmotion-v5f

You tried an ms3 before and it felt like it had better ergonomics? Interesting. Didn't think there would be much of a difference. Is it just the pedals or the (essentially missing) side pads? Something else? Nobody complain about "sloppy" pedals on Gotways! I can carry my ACM by the handle, set it down a bit tilted sideways and with a little push to make one pedal flop down, lift it a little and push it down the other way to open the other pedal, and press the power button, all without moving my hand on the handle (and then get on like normal and ride.) That's <2 seconds with only one hand on the handle to get from zero to going!! I barely touch my pedals these days or have to bend lower than to grab the handle, I start like this, and use the feet to close the pedals (also while holding the handle). It's even a fun skill game, getting the jolting movement right, especially unfolding the second pedal without closing the first. So these "sloppy" GW pedals are a godsend. Please never change! (Unless into something truly better...) Wouldn't want to have to pry open KS-style tight clamps with my hands (or some very awkward foot scratching movement) every time instead. These pedals are a plus! Wheellog changed my settings by just opening the configuration menu, so don't blame the wheel for what third party apps are doing. Maybe it's related to how the API (so to speak, there is nothing official, is there?) works that third party apps f**k up settings? Stick with the official app (old or new/social) to see how everything works out, then you can see what third party apps are doing later.

You can roughly say, power needed for lifting is proportional to the overall weight. So if 30 degrees (Shouldn't that be %? 30 degrees is a MASSIVE 57% slope!!) works for 75kg (~95kg overall if you say 20kg for the wheel), then 120kg rider (140kg overall) means you can only do 95/140 = 0.68 times that slope. For 30% that would be 20% (a third less) with 120kg rider for identical power consumption (power consumption is a limiting constant). We're talking about continuous power consumption. Also maybe the slope they advertise is a "the wheel can do it for a second" thing only ( certainly if they really mean 30 degrees). So only short term peak incline (= short term peak power consumption) is meant, which is nearly worthless information. See KingSong's 18L 2 meter ramp video, that tells us absolutely nothing noteworthy other than the wheel isn't super weak. If the bend is outwards (looks like it), you can use a bench vice to bend it back. See this thread and the one linked in there: The motor does only keep the balance, propulsion just results indirectly from that. There's no separate movement and balancing power budget. Only a motor budget. All a wheel does is accelerate the motor in the direction of a tilt until that tilt is gone. It's the defining thing of self-balancing vehicles that you can't separate movement and balance (aka "Why can't a wheel brake on its own?"). There is one source of power consumption, and that is the motor. That's why it gets hot (it's lossy). And because the electronics powering the motor are lossy as well, they get hot too. But they don't "use" much power themselves other than the heat losses. The tilt sensor probably needs like 0.001W of power. It's probably the same thing found in every phone. @Stan Onymous You can't add slopes like that. Otherwise leaning forward 10% on a 10% downward slope (aka -10%) would mean you're in a steady, balanced, unchanging state similar to 0% lean on flat ground. Which obviously isn't what is going to happen Gravity doesn't change direction, so 10% lean on flat ground is 10% lean on a 20% hill, just the power needed to reduce that 10% lean with the same "vigor" (what's the right word?) is different. You might as well ride on flat ground covered with industrial glue or tar or something sticky and resisting like that, and you might get the same power consumption like on that 20% hill. -- I guess it makes sense to ask "How much resistance does the ground I'm riding offer at the moment?", and the source of that resistance might be an incline, a sudden pothole, low tire pressure or heavy rider or anything else increasing the rolling resistance, etc. And the motor has to counter that all the time.

@Boogieman Not sure what is going on exactly now But I suspect the new Wheellog app might complicate the situation. I had to use "open all alarms" in the GW app (not sure what that means, and it always sounds so scary) before pressing "default alarms" so the default alarms 30km/h and 33-35km/h (somewhere there) would work again, because simply opening Wheellog configuration menu disabled them (the wheel double beeps when you change a setting and that was going on). So if you have any doubts or uncertainties, use the old Wheellog from the Play Store (can't change settings) and then default your wheel alarms like described above. Then you can see what happens, you can change the alarms, and after that you can see if using the new Wheellog version will auto-change anything. Gotta be systematic Or everything is already as you want it and you confirmed it (e.g. by a lift test) then you're good. Naturally, when the wheel beeps, it's a Wheel alarm, not one from Wheellog (though the new Wheellog can set the wheel alarms).

We both got the initial white panel "special edition". Just had to move my batteries 3 months later I'm back to the original tire. The knobby one was loud and somehow I suspect it was to blame for my bent rim (not sure). Also it is so thin/flabby and didn't hold up too well (started being damaged along the seams) compared to the stock tire. Also on asphalt, I'd guess the knobs are mostly gone after 1000km, but dirt should be better. I may try it again next winter for snow.

I'd use the Gotway App. Things are sketchy as is without third party involvement. Also Wheellog disabled my speed alarms so I don't trust it. GWs have these configurable things: * Two speed alarms, two or three beeps. * Tiltback by speed. If you hear one beep, that's the beginning of an aborted alarm (or the first low battery beep, but these are a bit longer) so no problem there. Don't worry about beeps, they are warnings, not the wheel laughing at you "Too late lol now you're dead". Same for 80% alarm, you still have reserves (unlikely you ever hear it unless you go crazy fast). I'd set speed alarms as you like them (or off), and tiltback off or close to top speed (with a nice speed alarm a bit lower so you're not surprised by it). And if you hear a beep, cooly and relaxedly slow down and that's it