meepmeepmayer

The display looks neat! I wonder how good or bad their app is going to be Or maybe no app will be needed, and you can configure the wheel with the display?

If it's legit, it must be a one-battery-pack 84V Nikola (or a really crazy good price for some other reason). If it's not legit, well then it isn't. Paypal is a good idea because you can dispute if there is a problem, and then Paypal decides who is right. If you never got a package, that should be an easy win for you. Just ask the seller questions without saying much yourself, and see how he reacts. Then you can decide if to trust him. All questions you have should be easy answers for a honest seller, and he should be able to reassure you about everything and that he is legitimate.

Don't give too much attention to people's worries and speculation. Wait for the wheels to be released and for real world experience. Most likely both wheels are going to be absolutely fine. Choose the one you want, not the one you're less afraid of

Likely: Gotway Nikola 84V with 800Wh or 650Wh battery. From the voltage, it is a 84V Gotway Nikola (75V is too low even for empty battery for a 100V wheel, but for a 84V wheel it is simply about 60% battery). Credit to @travsformation for that detective work. It is not a 100V Nikola, at that voltage it wouldn't even switch on. So no concerns about any battery issues. From the price, this is likely a Nikola with one battery pack instead of two. 800Wh or 650Wh (double that would be the typical 1600Wh or 1300Wh). These are legit sold, it's literally just a normal 84V Nikola with one pack instead of two, sold for a lower price. Maybe $1000+ (very rough uneducated guess) on Ali, so 600 might be a real normal price for a used one. It's still cheap, and maybe it is indeed a scam. Maybe not. The seller should be able to answer all your questions and give you all the details. Whether and how he answers them is how you decide if he is legit and trustworthy.

Some posts removed. This topic is about this particular wheel. Anything else can be discussed somewhere else if you think anything will come from that. You can link to that here, but that and the one reply above must be enough, we mods need to keep a bit of order. Thanks

Is it? This might apply to all chargers. We can move the topic if you want, though. What wheel/charger are we talking about? MCM5? The loose cable is on the charger?

The 1800Wh MSX uses/used Sanyo 21700 cells according the the Gotway website. Are these the same as the "Panasonic" cells we are speaking of here? Because the 18650s are billed as "Sanyo/Panasonic". Just wondering. They switched to LG M50Ts, but probably all 21700s before would be the "Panasonic" ones then? Or not? Because no 1800 MSX has shown any problems (or any of the older "Panasonic" 1800Wh Nikolas). So why do they suspect the battery cells right from the start, after one incident?

Manual unicyclists tend to learn in minutes. Just like you did Now it's important you wear all the necessary safety gear before you learn the hard way why you need it And don't get overconfident. This phase is dangerous, you think you can ride fine but unexpected stuff (surprise car coming at you) can send you into panic behavior instead of just calmly braking or reacting otherwise. Congratulations on the nice wheel and progress.

It's up to you. Feel free to also post in the Local Group Meetup forum or the soon-to-be-created Veteran brand forum. Wherever you get the most eyeballs.

How much did you try before? Because that looks shockingly good for a beginner. Slow start with no wobbling and no looking down while holding a selfie stick

The electrolyte fluid in Li-Ion batteries simply ignites when it gets too hot (like 200°C or so) and can "pop" the battery before that, too. Usually that heat is from a short (e.g. from water intrusion into a battery pack) or something else (in theory [never happened as far as it is known]: firmware bug) causing an uncontrolled runaway in the battery and the cells heating up rapidly until they pop or start burning. So fundamentally whether the wheel is on or off does not matter, and switching it off won't stop a fire. But of course things can be set in motion when you engage the electronics. Not sure if this happened here or was just coincidence. If you have a fire (extremely extremely rare) that you would need to stop (probably it's hardly possible to move an already burning wheel), the important thing is to cool the battery down (e.g. submerge the wheel in water). Realistically, all you can probably do is let it burn and contain the damage. - As always with battery fires, these are extremely rare, and this example should be cause for caution and introspection, but not concern

Wow, this easily could have been worse! Too bad it intimidated your friends. How was the air humidity and temperatures when this happened? Maybe some condensation got into the battery somehow? Firmware problem, and after you removed the charger, the "heating" started? 10 mins later, boom? Did you ever balance the battery (charge to full and keep the charger in for a longer while)? I didn't think even completely unbalanced cells would catch fire, but maybe they can? I am NOT trying to blame you here, this should not happen even without balancing! Maybe it's just a random coincidence, or a problem with the Panasonic (used, as per some rumors?) cells. That's the explanations I can come up with. I don't expect one from Gotway other than "We are using different cells now, problem solved". Jason doing great work as usual.

Yes he always says MSX and I expect that to be what he meant. Just wanting to be sure - This wheel looks really nice in reality, close to the renders. That carbon pattern is looking good. The 55kph top speed is also a nice surprise. They market it as offroad wheel, but I think most of all it's the best commuter wheel now.

You are right. Green light and 100% are not the same. Green light is more like max voltage. The point was to say that it doesn't end when 100% appears Post above edited.

I would trust the charger over the app. Also, keep the charger in after it goes green for a few hours, and you'll get ~10% extra energy (edit: actually that already happens before the green light, the point is to keep the charger in and not end right when something shows 100%). Anything over 100% voltage (the 100% voltage is lower than the max voltage) is shown as 100%, but it goes up to 111%! So if you need range...