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  1. 9 likes
    If the user can disable a speed limiter in any way, it wouldn't count as speed limiter according to the law anyways. So this plan wouldn't work. Also I'd NEVER buy a EUC that is limited for geographic/political reasons. Speaking to the manufacturers: let me break the stupid law or go fuck yourself. If a 1000€ device with no maintenance costs can go 50kph for 50km, who buys all the expensive cars? And then who gives cushy side gigs and money to the politicians?!? There's a ton of money in cars from a lot of angles, from taxes and insurance and space requirements (construction!) to every car-related industry. And they ALL pay off politicians in various ways. I still maintain the 45kph limit for light vehicles (like motor scooters etc., it's been there for 50+ years or so, nothing to do with electric ridables) has been specifically designed so they appear inferior to cars (50kph speed limit in the cities). Anyone who maintains that the legal limitations are there for good faith and for security considerations instead of self-selving politicians is a hopeless moron, in my opinion. Another example, why would someone need a car driver's license (including a ton of car driving lessons, costing thousands of €) to ride an ebike? Why is an ebike not allowed to go on bike paths? Because both is the case. You can't find any legitimate reasons to excuse this. The only reasonable explanation is that politicians sabotage car alternatives.
  2. 6 likes
    After 3 years of riding this is the first winter I’m riding in the snow, since I only now have a suitable tire. The CST C-186 on my MSX is a trials-styled tire, and dropped to around 2.2 bars it seems to grab on snow and even on rough ice just fine, even at speed. I also have a set of 100 screw-in studs on the way to hopefully make the winter a non-issue alltogether. For myself I realized that the 1-piece ice fishing suit I have is perfect for the cold riding! Just today I bought D3O-inserts to be sewn in to the suit for protection. Riding so far has been great fun! As if EUC riding didn’t remind me of skiing enough already in the summer, I was immediately thrown back to my active skiing years of the past. At one time I suddenly found myself riding on flat and smooth ice, as the cycleway had flooded before freezing. That was scary at 30km/h, but slowly slowing down while riding dead straight did the trick and I survived without drama. Once I get the studs installed, my MSX will be a proper winter beast!
  3. 5 likes
    NO! Don’t cancel!! You had a great idea!
  4. 4 likes
    Scooters (or specifically 'mopeds' in the UK) might have the 45kmh (30mph) limit but we cannot play down the fact that they need tax/insurance/driving licence etc etc but crucially they must comply with certain legislation to fit within that required for a 'motor vehicle'. Mechanical brakes being one of them. It's a long list. I can only see this going one of two ways for EUC's (at least in the UK): 1. 15mph limit (as per ebike) with zero requirement for tax/licence etc 2. 30mph limit (as per moped) with tax/licence etc. No1. will give us the freedom we need but obviously many riders travel at more than 15mph. No.2 will likely never happen because an EUC will struggle to get through the legislation needed to present itself as a motor vehicle. We can't, and never will have it both ways - speed and no legislation. No1 would be a ruddy good move forward though. Only the idiots blasting around would likely incur the wrath of the Old Bill. The rest of us can ride considerately and only open the taps when no-one is around/looking
  5. 4 likes
    Can anyone please tell me where I can buy one of that special 24mm socket which can use on the Monster? Or maybe someone can help me to make one, and I will pay you back. Thanks. Peter Q
  6. 4 likes
    I have been in and out of love with my Nikola Plus for a few months now. I just could not get the right ride going and I’ve been blaming the tires. Mine came with a CST 16-3 and as some of you might remember I complained that once I got past 18 mph it would wobble quite a bit. And one or two people were kind of unhelpful saying it was just me the rider not knowing what I was doing even know I can ride well pass that speed on plenty of other wheels without any issues but others were very helpful and encouraging. With help from several of you here I went ahead and did my first tire change on a wheel. I put the same tire that’s on my 16 X on my Nik+. A CX321 16x3. I really like that tire but I was hoping to get something more nimble. Besides it rode different on the Nik+ than it dose on my 16X. To me it’s better on/for the 16X. Still the CX was much better then the CST on the Nik+ IMO. Then I contacted Jason about a Chow Yang. He sent me one and I put that on the Nik+. The full model number is Chow Yang H-5167 16x3 / 76-305. This is by far the best tire I’ve had on this wheel. It has eliminated any slight bouncing sensations I was getting from both the other tires. It is very smooth and nimble when carving and I can easily get the wheel up to 30 mph without any issues as far as wobble. I can even carve at 30 mph no problem. It has caused me to really love this wheel and now the Nikola Plus is my favorite. The only complaint I have about this wheel is you really have to lean into it hard to get it up to speed. I still have not taken it to 40 mph because I just don’t feel safe putting all my weight forward at that speed. The 16 X is much easier to get to top speed with very little effort. I wish the Nik+ was the same way. I appreciate everyone’s help here. I really feel like I have the perfect wheel now.
  7. 4 likes
    Love that T-Shirt!
  8. 3 likes
    For some reason, I am not able to enter my message after adding stephen and Tinkererboi in my previous post, and while attempting, somehow it posted. Even editing won't work. Anyway, stephen and Tinkerboi, based on your concerns regarding the 16X pedal size I reached out to King Song for confirmation. Previously, when working with King Song for the special order options I asked specifically if the larger pedal size option for the 16X, 18S, and 18L are available and they specified that they were. Unfortunately, the information provided was incorrect with regards to the 16X and they have apologized. As you previously knew, the 16X is a complete re-design and incompatible with the pedals for the other models. The 16X pedal is a larger pedal, but it is not as large as the 2inch extra-large pedals available on the other models. It is in-between, sort of speak. I apologize for the confusion.
  9. 3 likes
    Its early days but I did a quick ride today 20mins/4miles lots of stop/start/corners/25mph runs and didnt have any oscillation problems on my new 84v 1860Wh. Fingers crossed as I havent given it a proper shakedown yet but it appears that maybe this is indeed constrained to the 100v models. My rear light is operating normally (FWIW) and also my buzzer is in the usual place (again FWIW).
  10. 3 likes
    Right on, my EUC also just arrived 3 weeks ago. Bought Kingsong 16X. Im now learning to ride it. Getting ready for the summer. Enjoy!
  11. 3 likes
    Please don't let Aneta convince you to take apart your MSX. Nothing is wrong with it. Save your energies for riding the wheel instead. If your axle nuts or pedal hangers were loose you would feel strong vibrations/shaking. You are just hearing the low speed grumblings that are more pronounced on Gotway wheels. I have owned and own a lot of Gotway wheels. That's what they do. Just my opinion.
  12. 3 likes
    After 8000km on a KS, it also took me a long time to better understand the GW family behaviour. The low battery beep is very simple: Whenever the battery is below 15%, -> beep. If battery is 20% at rest, it will quite easily dip below 15%, -> beep. I often ride home beeping all the way, but while I stay far away from the 45km/h beep, I don’t even ride that carefully, since when the MSX is at around 10% the 18XL would still allow (almost?) full speed. Darknessbot 0% is the same as MSX 0%, so until the level reaches zero, you won’t get a tiltback. When you do, it’s also very simple: When 0% (or less), -> tilt. If the 0% was reached during an acceleration, the voltage will recover instantly as the rider eases up, so -> tilt off. I can see how it can suit some people much worse than it suits me. I have a hard time pushing when the wheel resists. Be it wind, incline, tilt-back, deep sand, etc. When the MSX starts to resist at 48km/h, I sure as bell won’t start pushing through. My acceleration at those speeds is so slow, that I don’t even notice the pedals rising. I just hang at the 48-49 and feel that this is as fast as I’m comfortable going. I don’t know how you would feel about the behaviour, but I do suggest you try it out! It could behave or feel quite different to you, since you ride differently. It does. IMU, battery beep, 80% beep, and tilt-back are all separate entities. Meaning, the user set tilt-back only and always comes up when you ride past 48km/h. Nothing affects that. The 0% battery tilt-back only and always comes up at 0% battery, and nothing else affects that. Etc. I’m pretty sure the tilt-back would finally do it’s job and slow down even you... No modern wheel cuts off until the wheel is at a ~45 degree tilt. Until that it will do it’s best to keep you upright. If it’s at it’s limits, the pedals will indeed feel soft. Sounds like a 48km/h tilt-back might serve you quite well to save you from possible further ”clueless” moments. That’s exactly why I have it on. *sigh* We indeed are. It’s been the same since much slower models. The blame for people turning off the tilt-back on their 100V wheels does turn to GW quite a bit due to this. What’s the point in paying all that extra to have a wheel that feels and performs (almost) the same?
  13. 2 likes
    Thank you, I'll try to reproduce issue and - hopefully - fix it
  14. 2 likes
    I just got my first wheel (18L in white). I heard the white plastic in the 18L was better. I prefer the black look, but i just KNEW I should get a cover for it, BEFORE I even turned it on the very first day. I got the euc and waited 2 long days for the cover. Let me say this... the cover has saved my wheel. I ride on rough asphalt and it is eating my pedals alive. The plastic still looks good. Some of the plastic where the holes are cut out, have scratches from the road, but this only illustrates that the cover IS taking a beating. I am very happy with mine, and applaud the use of neoprene to help absorb impact. It also looks really nice. I like the softer feel of the cover on my legs, and havent found it moves around on the wheel. I only wonder if there were some form of waterproofing i should apply, or care advice to prolong the cover's longevity? Thanks for the amazing cover! I have no idea if my 50lb wheel would still be unbroken, without it. Another benefit is that the side pads you remove to open the wheel, can be barely taped in place, as the cover holds them together and would also hide pads tears... A+ product for sure!
  15. 2 likes
    I'm going to say yes for the selfish reason that I want to see if a new board changes anything Also I don't see what else could cause such symptoms (like you describe) other than the oscillation bug being present in the Monster firmware in some way, too. Questions are: How do you make sure a new Monster board has different firmware? Why would they even change the Monster firmware if no problem is reported like with the MSX? So maybe... wait? No point in getting a new board if it's the same as the old board. But eventually I think you should replace the board. We need more info on what causes this kind of bug and if anything has been changed due to this
  16. 2 likes
    @mrelwood gives great advice. Here is a great video to help you conciser. @Jimmy Chang did a great job of putting it together. (Has only been riding 9 months, Very wise! ) One thing I can tell you is that we are not getting any younger. The sooner you start the better. I only wish I had one of these things when I was younger.
  17. 2 likes
    Yep Michigan. In a group ride usually 25-35 mph. Otherwise just 20-30 mph. Usually ride paved roads. In winter 100% prefer it over those two, in summer...to be determined, may get too hot.
  18. 2 likes
    eww wheel squeezing. The less i touch the wheel the more control i have. I can’t imagine riding any other way
  19. 2 likes
    Yeah that's how i pout when I'm riding 😗😙😗😙😗
  20. 2 likes
    All speculation until we get to try it out. I'm fairly certain it'll (suspension) be something new to acclimate and adjust riding style to. Like the Z10 came out and you had to "re-learn" riding due to it's unique characteristics. I think it's great to "unlock" a new skill which pushes us to learn and improve. They've been talking about this for a long while, and I'm certain that behind the scenes lots of testing is and has 🐝n taking place to really give us all something special, unique and new to look forward to in our niche. Let's wait and see, but I think they're going to nail this one outta the park. Excited for this Oh, and to your point, I believe Inmotion should equip it with a hardware lock feature like on some full suspension mt bikes. You can lock the suspension for stiffer climbing. Then you'd have best of both worlds. 👽💜😎👊
  21. 2 likes
  22. 1 like
    @MR BRADSounds like you are making good progress. 16km/h is really slow. That is less than 10 mph. I go faster than that in my living room sometimes. Don't tell my wife! For some reason while learning to ride some people hit a 13 mph or 20 km/h speed limit wall until they get more experience. They just don't feel comfortable above 20km/h. I would set it at about 20kp/h and keep comfortably under that.
  23. 1 like
    Thanks @/Dev/Null. I’ll try to increase the speed limit (though I’m literally hitting tilt back at about half speed - not always, but quite a bit. I currently have the PSI at 35-38.
  24. 1 like
    Thanks! I'm also super interested in seeing what DJI is going to do next. They're going to have to at least match the Skydio tracking, and also differentiate. Perhaps with better video quality or faster speeds. I think they're way behind on the AI front of things, so I'm sure they're scrambling like you said.
  25. 1 like
    Very cool idea. I don't think it's a complete fix because the axle nuts also get loose because the shims themselves get distorted over time, causing everything to get loose.
  26. 1 like
    You need to work on that Danish tan of yours 😜
  27. 1 like
    Two might already be much much better than one for the time being. You could abuse the third post in this thread for this. It could even be that editing the topic is more problematic than editing one of the posts.
  28. 1 like
    Hey Mono. Questions: Was there a second person filming you or was the camera statically mounted to your chest, helmet, wheel...etc? Any footage depicting your series of falls? We all fall but it appears your concerned about the undetermined circumstances which is understandable.
  29. 1 like
    In that case, maybe trying to impress the audience. Or the person holding the camera!
  30. 1 like
    It’s common knowledge that EUCs are prohibited from CicLAvia, but that has never hindered us from participating in past events. And if we get kicked out, I know a killer route we can take through my old neighborhood. Join me this Sunday as we close out the last CicLAvia of 2019! In the event of rain, this ride will be cancel.
  31. 1 like
    You are valiant indeed @Wizard. And if ever there is a wall of fame I'm sure you'll be on it! The only thing I'll point out is that there are also older riders who I see on the forum of espritroue.fr Meanwhile, my hat's off to you!
  32. 1 like
    What makes this a difficult question to answer, and why we’ll always see differing answers, is that every wheel has it’s pros and quirks. One has to weigh which quirks will be the easiest to live with. V10F: Pedals may crack in use, and may even cause a danger if not inspected regularly. 16S: The motor whine is quite loud, and the wheel is a bit low and wide. V8F: The V8 had a low powered motor causing accidents near the top speed. Hopefully the new V8F is better. Range is still very low though. Tesla: Boxy shell is bad for comfort, and the shell seems to crack easier than others. Buying the wheel second hand saves money, and the re-sell value doesn’t drop immediately. But if the battery has been handled badly, a new pack might cost as much as the wheel itself. So, pros and cons to everything.
  33. 1 like
    Weirdly I kind of miss the old whine. It was kind of cute
  34. 1 like
    Im rolling catch me outside ciclavia first or Im a valley local I know amazing trails at balboa park lake , woodley lake park, reseda santa monica mountain trails, everyone call text me 8182710932
  35. 1 like
    Hey, my wife is from Vernon! While New York is known for fast drivers, Boston is known for bad/reckless drivers. That said there is a decent amount of bike friendly markings around the city. Our neighbors in Cambridge are much more progressive and have a more established and respected structure for alternate transpo. Bike Sunday’s have been on my radar only for warm weather months, never thought about late fall...hmm. Either way riding along the Charles is fun regardless.
  36. 1 like
    For my tiny body..it's full on bobble head. With a moto jacket it helps a bit, but wearing a t-shirt and helmet, yep full bobble head. You can definitely feel it is heavier than tsg pass or predator, and bigger. The foam inside is more substantial as well. There is a lot of debate about whether moto helmets are actually beneficial for EUCs or not vs lighter helmets such as tsg pass or predator dh6x. Not enough data to make claims.
  37. 1 like
    Looks like Quanshun QS273 H45 motor: https://www.qsmotor.com/product/16inch-6000w-scooter-motor/ with 45mm wide magnets. Our segwheels typically have magnets in 15-30mm range (18L is 27mm, 16X is 30mm). The wider the magnets, the more torque, the more power. These scooter motors are beasts in terms of weight, though - they can easily weigh 20 kilos, just the motor - more than 10 kilos heavier than what we have. What we have in our segwheels are cheap ubiqutous ebike motors ordered from big manufacturers of these motors. They probably cost well less than $50 on B2B market in China, since they can be bought at retail prices of less than $100.
  38. 1 like
    You're absolutely right, I understand now. Because of controller current limits, even when throttle = 100%, D can be less than 100%, which results in different battery and motor currents: Imotor = Ibatt/D.
  39. 1 like
    I’ve had to work with the MSX headlight quite a bit more. Quick recap: - Original: Light spreads way too narrow. Didn’t see a deer right next to the cycleway. (No collision.) - LED element from a random flashlight implemented to the original frame: Worked great for a year, but finally gave up. - XPG-3 LED element from a new bicycle light & original frame: Worked great for a day, then gave up. My suspicion is overheat due to lack of flashlight frame as a cooling element. - Complete front section from a T6 LED flashlight: Looks rad, even has a bit of focal adjustment! Just installed, we’ll see how it holds up. Con: Too exposed, will easily take a hit in a tumble.
  40. 1 like
  41. 1 like
  42. 1 like
  43. 1 like
    Hey guys looking for some guidance here. Found a used mten3. It is 3yrs old with 425wh battery. Do you know if anything has been upgraded that I should be concerned with in the last 3 years? Do i need to worry about the battery degrading? It’s in good condition with low miles. What would a fair offer be? Thanks in advance...
  44. 1 like
    I have the 1-5A charger from 1radwerkstatt. 84v Gotway with the Lenovo adapter. It is variable with 80/90/100% cutoff as well but it cuts off lower than 80/90. More like 70/80.
  45. 1 like
    I agree with @Mono. When talking to outsiders, I use EUC. When talking to some one in our asylum I just say wheel.
  46. 1 like
    Took the plunge and the update worked just like it should - I'm now riding with 1.07 and loving it! Agree with you that it's smoother, definitely feels better than 1.06. The >5A beeps occurred initially but have not persisted, I'm using the eWheels charger. I feel like my wheel is now ideal, it's everything I could want and totally dependable. The fastest I have gone so far is ~28 mph, so not yet familiar with tilt backs and lots of beeps, but I'm having so much fun.
  47. 1 like
    Damn man. Sorry to hear. Glad you made it out 100% okay and hope your wheel is fine too. I saw that you were at around 80% battery. ~79v. At that battery level I can just reach 48kmh with my riding weight of 69kg. Then I am on soft tiltback. I have also pressed medium-aggressively at this speed to provoke the 4 beep / 88% alarm. I see that your watt numbers at the beginning of the ride are a bit higher which looks more normal. I feel that the 16X constantly throttles as we are riding and I wonder if it throttling in the middle of the acceleration/lean that you were doing. Even at very low voltage when I was playing around I never felt close to an overlean but I am a pretty small guy. This is very worrying though... and that was a nasty fall that just came out of nowhere. You should try running your 16X down to low voltage say for instance 20% battery or 67v. At this battery level you will be limited at 30-34kmh and maybe then you could look closer at the tiltback / soft tiltback / hard tiltback and make sure that it is working correctly. If you haven't already. Seems like you didn't have much margin before the overlean and the whole point of 1.07 is keeping power in reserve to avoid this kind of scenario. Good job taking it like a champ! Looked for a muscle-arm emoji but couldn't find one! You know what I mean though.
  48. 1 like
    My new high tech EUC storage elevator.
  49. 1 like
    Wish Tesla would make EUCs... with their level of engineering. What we have now is Stone Age of electric unicycles.
  50. 1 like
    Well I pulled the trigger... I will hopefully soon be a proud EUC owner! Thanks for your help everyone! Now to buy safety gear... lol
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