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Showing most liked content since 09/16/2020 in all areas

  1. 14 likes
    The guys who don't ride soft mode to the full extent will tell you comfort, and while this is true, this is only barely scraping the surface of really "why soft mode"? ... and mind you, not all manufacturers (and even different models within the same mfr line, ie. Gotways) soft modes are created alike. In the FW, the mfr can tune the a.) hardness and b.) pedal swing distance, differently for all stages of a lean: pedal initiation / first engagement; the "decay" after that; then the pedal "hold" after that; and then obviously the brake backswing (or lack of swing, for a true full hard mode). IMHO InMotion and King Song soft modes aren't very useful for front traveling riding, as the response curves are very simplistic (rubber softness only at the front and back peak edges of their minimal pedal travel swings), and the IM & KS soft modes always felt like they were more tuned for doing pendulums/tricks, which makes sense if you see how all their promo tends to be trick riders. The real main reasons of "why soft mode" is leverage and control. It's easier to understand if you think of the opposite of soft mode, ie. hard mode. In Hard Mode, the pedals should never move from parallel to the ground, ever. So when you engage the pedals in a lean, in order to increase acceleration, you have to exert even more increasing pressure on the pedal(s), and the more you increase this lean pressure, the more/harder the wheel has to push back in order to keep the pedals level to the ground. First, this is very fatiguing IMHO, as you always have to exert considerable force for your speed input, whereas, if the pedals can travel/swing and not have to push back with equal force, you can tune things so even an easy effortless lean can exert the same acceleration as when you had to push/lean hard on the former brick wall hard mode pedals, albeit, in the soft mode scenario, the pedals do have to travel farther in comparison, and there is a limit to the distance you can travel (ie. you can't spin upside down, etc.), so alternation between pedal "stroke" swings is necessary. Second, hard mode has the least amount of feedback control, since the pedals relatively cannot swing/travel, thus cannot efficiently give you an easier idea of how much you are pressing, degree of change of pressure vs speed/accel. Think of a typical mechanical button on a machine, one that can move up and down incrementally for tactile response (soft mode), then compare that to something like a non-responsive simple press of a phone touchscreen (hard mode). You have more nuanced control with the tactile button; you can be mid-press, then change your mind and lift back up to not engage a full press, whereas a phone touchscreen is way less so. The ability for the pedals to swing back and forth freely gives you IMHO a higher "resolution" of pressing on the pedals to adjust speed with, and makes it so you don't have to be pushing hard on a brick wall to elicit the same speed as you do in hard mode. Third, leverage, leverage, leverage. Allowing the pedals to swing, in combination with operating the wheel on side-to-side lean angles, allows you to put the pedals in a mechanically better position to exert bodyweight on, without just vertical, one parallel plane superman leaning. If you picture the typical EUC operated completely and fully upright, the way the pedals sit at the bottom perpendicularly attached to the pedal arms connecting to the axle, this bottom positioning is at an extreme mechanical disadvantage in this resting maximum gravity positioning, as compared to say, if you could rotate/swing the pedals around the circle to either level to the axle height, then pressing downwards, or even higher than the axle nut (hence why seated riding is a much more efficient way to exert force on the wheel, particularly the bigger the wheel becomes in size (longer torque arm)). So, allowing the pedals to swing will give you all kinds of possibilities to gain better leverage angles to bodyweight press the pedals, so long as you know how to operate the wheel like this on angles other than fully straight and upright, as pedal swing downwards (the misnomered "pedal dip") when you and the wheel are fully parallel and upright, just puts your body into faceplant positioning; whereas if you do the same with the wheel body tilted at a side angle, your body angle countering this wheel body side lean gives you the stability to be able to leverage this "pedal dip" swing for less effort, bodyweight pedal force input, without chance of faceplant. But alas, most riders do not go through the bother to experiment with soft mode fully, and dismiss it because they feel that first "pedal dip" and get scared off. I have to admit, I was of this camp in my earlier riding years, until I had to do a lengthy ride wheel swapping with @Tishawn Fahie and getting on his MSV3 (that wheel was by far the swingiest and softest soft modes ever!) But after that ride, I fully got why soft mode, and haven't gone back since. (also note, early days SoloWheel guys swore by those wheels swingy soft modes as well, for a good reason IMHO)
  2. 13 likes
    I got my Veteran today. I am typically a person who is disappointed in about 70% of the things I purchase. I won't muse about if it's my fault or theirs. Anyhow, I am NOT disappointed with the Veteran. Now, Im not blown away by it of course, but it does seem to fall squarely in line with what I was hoping for. I enjoy my 18L immensely, I love my mten completely, and this Sherman will definitely earn a place where there was a lack, in my euc collection. At aruond 80lbs, I was VERY worried I wouldnt even be able to lift it. Well, it's heavy, but its a balanced weight. I wouldnt want to carry it up stairs, but its not too bad to lift over small obstacles w/o blowing out my back. The weight also worried me as far as... could I hold it up with my leg. Again, it was a surprising non-issue. I have leaned it over while standing and quickly realized you can't be lazy about it. But, even after just a few dismounts, it should be a non-issue. I partly expected this thing to take off like a rocket. Well, it doesnt. It does accelerate with less force than my 18L, but its a very manageable and predictable acceleration. It reminds me of my 1100cbr sport/touring bike. Gobs of power, but in a stylish way. Kind of how a lexus V8 has the balls, even if the honda has the ponies. The weight of the wheel actually gives it a very solid stance. The tire (knobby) is impressive and reminds me of a dirtbike/enduro tire. There is a lot of sidewall here and a lot of tread. I was riding at a mere 15psi (i'm 130lbs) and it felt very compliant on the asphalt, but still not too much give to be a danger with typical road riding. Now, 15psi may be low for harsh impacts, but it was nice to see the lower pressure and it really did compare to the soft feeling of my mten at 15-20psi. The knobby tire is smooth on the road. I find the humm it makes, kind of enjoyable. Remember the whine of the 18l and how we measured speed by its tone? The knobby will do just the same. I have no doubts that its tread design (combined with weight) will perform just fine on mild/intermediate) offroad terrain. Be warned... this euc can and WILL hurt you. As a rider that likes to travel near tiltback on the 18L, I was curious to see if 30mph felt as close to the edge, on the sherman. Let me tell you this.... once I figured out how to turn off the low speed tiltback, it was a mere 2/10ths a mile on grooved ashpalt and I was doing 30mph. I THOUGHT it must have been telling me kmh. My 18l on this same stretch, feels a little iffy above 25mph. It isnt until I hit less grooved asphalt and onto pavement, that the 18L felt 'safe' at 28mph+. The sherman had me doing 30-35mph+ on the same road and I really did just figure it HAD to be km. 3 minutes Later in my maiden voyage , I looked to see my readout at nearly 40mph. Mind you, Im in a t-shirt and honestly thought it was only kmh. I could tell by the sound of the tire that I was moving quickly, it just didnt feel like it. No wobbles, no excessive lean needed to keep the pace, no tire hop, just smooth sailing. I would compare the feeling of 40mph on the sherman, to that of a bike when you hit that perfect speed where everything just smoothes out. When I got home and reviewed the tape and the wheel settings, I was SHOCKED to realize it was already set for mph. I am already planning a speed run to my gas station, and Im WAY less worried than I probably should be. The sherman felt very planted thru the turns. I was going comfortably thru the same turns as my 18L, but accidently doing it at 5-10mph faster. So, be warned. If you come from a background of hi-speed activities, you will be hitting the top speed on the sherman and not even realize it. It will lull you in and prolly kick yours and MY asses eventually. Its not ALL roses. The sherman has a pretty mean forward dip when doing 180's in the street. You know the type. You want to turn around but stay in your lane. Well, be ready, as the pedals dip a lot. I will continue to play around with the modes, but medium is enough dip that you will need to modify your ride characterisitcs for it. Im more worried about pedal dip in hi speed sweeping turns, than I am about the top speed of it. Long boring read I'm sure. Its just rare that I am content with something I buy, so I figured I'd share my first 4 mile hike and what my thoughts were on it. I have a video up of the same shit quality as usual, so feel free to steer clear or not. I can see how the veteran is setting the pace for now. I can also see that the pace will make the euc a little more regulated in the future. If you can, buy one. I just have this eerie feeling that we are at the peak of freely enjoying them (some places have past that timeframe) and if you wait, you may find its illegal, or not as economically feasible. Sieze the day!!!
  3. 11 likes
    Maiden voyage! 70 miles at 30-35mph average speed in high winds (15-25mph gusts) and cooler temperatures (65f) @ 200lbs on hard/strong mode @ 27.5psi with the knobby tire on flat asphalt terrain. How's that for details?! 😛 Was able to maintain 30mph up until around 60 miles. Virtually no voltage sag. Kept taking my headphones out listening for beeps but they didn't come until it was basically dead. Love it!
  4. 10 likes
    Dear all, To start with, I'd like to say thank you for always being there and supporting us by offering the advices on improving our products and sharing your own riding experience. And that's also the original purpose to set up the telegram group. Sometimes, to be honest, "issues" are annoying for everybody. And it's easy to get panic to step into the others' shoes. Will it happen to my own wheels? It will and it won't. No matter how servere the issue is, it's a “Probability Problem". If it's not yours, it might be the others'. But we got you covered. INMOTION will got you covered by offering the decent after-sales service you deserved. Our engineers and distributors have been non-stop fixing all kinds of issues every day. Please be patiently waiting for them. EUC is still a niche market, which results in limited resource from all aspects. Everything comes with the order. But the safety issues will always be on the top of our list. In case that I might miss some of the tag messages, I will post more Q&A here so that the newbie in the group can also have a clear picture what we're talking about. INMOTION Telegram Group:https://t.me/Inmotiontelegram INMOTION Telegram Channel: https://t.me/joinchat/AAAAAEcRRi8byLzGwOok8w Thanks Liam 1. Liam: There is no top limit to charge. If you are planning a long ride, then you better charge to 100%. Warning Tips: Don't ride agressively in low battery state. Sharp turn/acceleration in such state might worn out the battery faster and decrease the lifespan of the battery. It's like charging your cellphone. You don't want to charge your cellphone everytime it's shut off automatically. 2. Liam: Actually, we have developed the plan of the glued saddle connection part which will be used in the coming production on Mid-October. The reinforced metal plan can work perfectly keep them from breaking, just not that asthetic as the glued option. The current plan is to adding the metal parts in black color to reinforce the saddles. (The picture is the prototype) The final solution will be applied on Mid-October production which has added glue inside. It will be stronger, and thicker. 3. Liam: It's impossible to make it happen due to the cellphone OS restriction. 4. Liam: We tested it out under different conditions. 35m suggested brake distance with 50km/h, 20m suggested brake distance with 40km/h. But it will be different due to the riding style, skills and road condition. 5. Liam: It's not within the current development plan. The new wheels are under development now. It's really hard to make a big change. But it will be possible to adopt it to the next generation. 6. Liam: During the firmware update, you can keep it on the kickstand upright or put it on its side. The key factor is to disengage the motor. 7. Liam: We have noticed all the motor issue since the day 1. Abnormal different sounds inside the motor, the Z bearing issue, and etc. Only a few percentage V11 will encounter such issues. The new motor will be applied to the production on Mid-October. All defected motors will be replaced under warranty. Keep Updating. Update Date: Sep 21, 2020.
  5. 9 likes
  6. 9 likes
    Got my V11 this morning😀😊😊
  7. 9 likes
    Wow. Hope you are both feeling better by now! Glad it worked out in the end. However just curious about one thing. Why didn't you swap wheels with Chris? Say when you were about 60% and he about 40%. You would likely both have made it to the downhill section with much less risk of overexertion for Chris. It also would have allowed you to stay together which would have meant much less risk for either of you to end very badly.
  8. 9 likes
    May not be everyone's cup of tea but I like it!
  9. 9 likes
  10. 8 likes
    Thanks a lot for all your support and advice. When I opened up the wheel today, I found the fuses already fitted on each side of the battery compartment. Just had to connect the cable ends an then proceed as shown in the video, I got from my Chinese seller. I measured the batteries with a DMM. They were both exactly 99 V. Then I connected the cables. No dramatic spark ⚡️ Then I connected the wheel to the charger as @Marty Backe explained in his video. And after disconnecting it it switched off. A short press on the button and it balanced beautifully. Hope I didn’t make any mistakes in routing the cables. 🥶 So in short: Everything turned out well! Thanks again for all the help. Here are some photos for reference:
  11. 8 likes
    So....I've finally made up my mind. My riding habits and needs have evolved since I put the decision on hold, so waiting was clearly the right thing to do. @meepmeepmayer...since you insisted so much on the subject, I thought I'd tag you so you can enjoy the "I told you so" moment...I just ordered a Sherman I weighed the pros and cons, and it's the best possible fit for my needs. Now that I'm living the nomadic life, RANGE has become my top priority. I have the 16X and the 18XL in the RV with me, and although combined they provide a good 180-200 km if I'm conservative in my riding, I find myself yearning for more. As well as the ability to push my wheels above 40 km/h without obliterating the battery and halving my range (which I've been doing fairly often these days...there are so many wide, deserted, well taken care of trails here in Austria that it's hard to stay below 40 km/h). Why have to choose range or speed when I can have both? (Sherman's high-speed range will probably be more or less the same as the 16X/18XL's "eco riding" range) Sure, there are some things on the Sherman that I'm not a big fan of (especially those bottom corners of the roll cage), but it's a compromise I'm willing to make in exchange for the added range in that compact (albeit dense) format. For touring and exploring, hitting a few paths here and there but no heavy off-roading, I think it's the perfect fit. I reckon' the 16X will remain my dedicated off-road wheel for the time being. I was hoping the V11 might fit the bill, but I'm not too sure it would live up to my expectations (for that purpose; I think that overall, it's possibly the best all-rounder on the market ATM, and the most advanced, refined and best-quality wheel out there). And the S18...not an option I'm even considering. I love off-roading, but anything less than 1500 Wh doesn't cut it for me, and the build quality...I think it still has a long way to go before I'd be willing to spend my money on it (not trying to trigger any arguments here) Anyway, back on topic...SHERMAN, YESSSS !!!! Thought I'd share the news in the thread where the upgrade discussion started. The countdown has begun! Can't wait to receive it (although it'll be a couple of months...)
  12. 8 likes
  13. 8 likes
    I came across this decal for sale on Etsy and somehow that silhouette looks oddly familiar!?
  14. 8 likes
    It may appear like a mess but I’m actually making excellent progress. Waiting for my new DNM 38RC shock to arrive Friday. All of the articulations are smooth so far. I will gladly post my parts/ procedures when I’m completely satisfied with the performance. In some aspects I believe my mods will be simpler than master craftsman @Feynman but I plan to add zert fittings at the slider attachment points so that may prove to be somewhat difficult. The hardest part of this mod process is keeping it a secret from my wife. She has no idea I bought an S18.
  15. 7 likes
    Just came back from my first ride. 😃 it really is a different generation of wheels. Coming from the Z10 it feels like the wheel has suspension. Even in the strong mode it is a very soft ride. The acceleration is insane and you loose the feeling for speed. It just accelerates on and on and when you change the alarm from 40 something to 60 something km/h it just keeps going and the peep just comes later. It did not go faster then 60 km/h. After all it was my first ride. 🤣 Returning home I immediately got on my Z10 to see what feels different. And then I had a kind of déjà vu: it felt like riding the old Ninebot E+ after having ridden the MSuper V3s+ . The Z10 is a nice wheel, it just does not have enough range and speed. But it’s nice for doing tricks in the park and commuting in the city. So they are not really comparable. It’s nice to have both. But before the Z10 just felt a little too slow, now it feels almost unbearably slow. The Sherman definitely sets a whole new benchmark. But ... I never thought 45 would be insanity. 😝 I remember 2 years ago I was contemplating aloud in the forum how long it will take until the unicycle will let us cross the 100 km/h line and someone lectured me about pedal friction and the wind that would blow you off the wheel and and and. May that be ... but I still believe it will be done by someone somewhen soon. 🙃 The Sherman points the way in this direction. Once all the snow is gone and ⛄️ snowboarders and skiers all discover the EUC as a satisfying alternative, there will be race tracks and EUC competitions and Olympic Games and with that comes speed and further development. And it will come fast. Mark my words.
  16. 7 likes
    Eunicycles is a reputable EU dealer that is known for great after sales support and caring about customers, just like eWheels in US or Speedyfeet in UK. From what I know, this note has been sent to his customers and it was Eunicycles own initiative to resolve problems he and his customers are facing with early S18 units. If I remember, Eunicycles also put this note on his FB profile.
  17. 7 likes
    If anyone is interested in getting stainless steel screws or replacing the Phillips head with Hex head screws the Sherman screws are as follows. Shell Cover - M4x18mm Countersunk Scews (9 on each side, 18 total) LCD Cover - M3x10mm Countersunk Screws (2 on each side, 4 total)
  18. 7 likes
    Fantastic! I hope this becomes a standard for how wheels are compared - brilliant approach.
  19. 7 likes
    Great content finally putting some data and numbers to what we've all been feeling in our feet and legs (and knees and back).
  20. 6 likes
    This wheel is amazing done 1 hour riding and decided to see what backwards was like😊,, bloody excellent,,,,, its like riding on cotton wool ,, bloody love it When turning sharp the suspension pushes down and makes the turn soft what a feeling, I'm try do some video tomorrow
  21. 6 likes
  22. 6 likes
    Update: Received my second V11 this past week. This wheel is so smooth and it's nice to be able to ride it beyond 7 miles this time. I've been back to the hill where my original cutout occurred and all is good this time. I think I have the suspension all set with the correct psi and it feels great on the bumps. Great power and easy to ride. I have adapted to it pretty quickly. Shoulder still has pain at times. Pretty sure I didn't break anything but bruised it enough that I'm still feeling tenderness with certain movements. I've been practicing parkour rolling and feel pretty comfortable that in a bad situation similar to the original cutout that I'd be able to react faster. Anyway, overall great wheel, well worth the wait and $$.
  23. 6 likes
    Eve I understand your frustration and though it may feel like King Song is not on it, we are. I've been keeping tabs on the forum (though not engaging with it) to see what issues customers may be having, whether that may be a one off or an issues that affected more users.
  24. 5 likes
    For now you can set it to max (100 °C) and it will still be a safe value for V11 Upcoming release will allow to set alarm temperature at 120 °C. I consider this temperature a safe limit for V11. EUC World uses MOSFET temperature as main temperature, because it's more important than motherboard temperature (which is also displayed on "Live data" page).
  25. 5 likes
    Finally! Some "bad" news! Was getting so bored in this thread, everything so content and uneventful that I've been cheating, been reading the knigsong S18 thread for my pervertrd excitement.
  26. 5 likes
    Damn bro... and you think I'M dangerous? Trekking off into the desert on a wheel with finite battery power. Aren't you Cali boys good for heat and dry? I dont carry phones, as some calls just cost too much damn money. Sorry you fell out, glad you made it back! Not sure I'd have split up. Enter together, die together...
  27. 5 likes
    I probably will take the Sherman on this trail again. I think it'll be perfect.
  28. 5 likes
    That was one of the causes. I know that "Top Riders" stats are important for many users, so I wanted to make this as tamperproof as possible. CSV files were easy to modify and - sad to say - there were users that modified their logs to get higher in the ranks. But CSV import was also prone to errors and generated extra load on the server. So I expedited my works on improving tour recording feature so it will work completely offline as is now. After introducing this new tour recording in 2.0, option for creating tours from CSV logs was removed. Now CSV logs are for logging detailed EUC data for forensics or analysis, tour recording is used for... tour recording
  29. 5 likes
    Definitely! We can see it on @Marty Backe‘s face how exhilarated he his on every ride with his Sherman. Bet he missed his Sherman dearly on his last trail ride. I wonder how the Sherman would have done in the quick sand they had to cross. 🤣 Maybe Marty will do a second challenge of this trail this time with the Sherman.
  30. 5 likes
    There are two ways to inflate the suspension on this wheel. 1. The KingSong way, with the supplied block on the pedal hanger. 2. By using a 90 degree or more elbow on the upper valve. Note that the psi values between the two methods can not be compared. In your case you probably inflated the shock with the supplied block. You set the lower chamber to 80 psi. If you check the pressure again without the block, then the reading will indeed be higher. the opposite is true for the positive chamber. If you inflate it to 200 psi with the block, it probably reads in the 150 range without the block. These are simple laws of physics when adding pressure to a chamber and then checking the pressure when the chambers size has changed. Both methods are valid to use, as long as you don’t try to compare the values from one method to the other. Using an elbow makes it more convenient and faster to make adjustments on the fly. The chamber values are only indicative though as rider style, weight, purpose etc varies alot so comparison from rider to rider is really hard to do. I like mine set up with a 10-12mm sag at idle (just standing on the wheel) and then going to 3/4 of full travel for light off-road riding (gravel roads with small to medium bumps). Rebound is set at 6 clicks from close. For me I achieve this with 80/200 psi with the block at 80kg riding weight.
  31. 5 likes
    Riding with you is SPARTA pure! ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️ 🌗 5 stars for dramaturgy, suspense and film making 5 stars for recklessness 5 stars for taking just enough water with you on this trip 5 stars for the guts to call 911 in time 5 stars for the California emergency services 🚁 and the ranger 5 stars for your wife’s patience (hope she hit you with the rolling pin upon return!) 5 stars for the both of you to have survived this. ... and the half moon is for your orientation skills, planning skills and other missing Boy Scout skills 🤣 Enjoyed this one a lot!
  32. 5 likes
    It's ironic how people intuitively think it's dangerous. It's actually incredibly safe if you just stay aware of your surroundings and don't do anything stupid. Make sure you know what you're riding on and keep your pedals away from obstacles. If you let your pedal hit something you're going down. The only time I wiped out at speed was when I cruised into a grass field that I had been through many times before. This time though, it had turned into a swamp due to a broken underground pipe. As soon as I hit the grass concealing the water underneath my wheel slid out from under me and I went down hard. However, it was wet grass so it was relatively soft and I slid a ways until I stopped and was not hurt. Just wet. Just gear up because you never know when something unexpected is going to happen. And remember you only have one point of contact with the ground, so make sure you're on a stable surface, especially when turning.
  33. 5 likes
    Sain tuon inmotion v10 jo heinäkuussa, mutta mainboard kärähti ensimmäisellä viikolla enkä videoita vielä edes ehtinyt siitä kuvaamaan xD Ja olen sillä nyt noin 1300km ajellutkin. Sherman pääsääntöisesti kiinostaa tuon ison akun takia. Pyörällä tulee ajeltua noita +200km lenkkejä miltein joka viikko niin olisi mukava saada vaihtelua kulkuneuvoon niille matkoille. Enkä maastoon ajatellut mennä, ainakaan toistaiseksi. Suojista vielä pitäisi ostaa nuo rannesuojat jostain. Ainakin nuo wrong wayn viime videossa olevat näyttivät ihan päteviltä. En ole ihan varma tuosta kävelytie asiasta. Siis ei kait kukaan kaupungissa muutenkaan aja kuin madellen? Ja ei kait autotiellä voi ajaa kun autoilijoilla +60km/h rajoitus? Eikö tuo juurikin herättäisi paljon huomiota ajaa 60km/h jossain autotiellä? Kauppakassina toimii Xiaomi m365 dual moottoreilla, koska kerran kun kävin tuolla inmotionilla kaupassa niin jäi puolet tavaroista ostamatta kun ei saanut ostoksia laitettua nojaamaan johonkin. Yritin etsiä jos suomessa olisi ollut yhtään aktiivista EUC videoiden tekijää enkä löytänyt, joten tässä taas hieno rako jollekkin erikoistua. Kiitoksia Tarkoituksena olisi vain keskittyä näissä yksipyöräisissä tuohon uniikkiin tapaan liikkua ja tehdä mahdollisesti pitkiä road trippejä Veteranilla. Sillä näissä nyt ei ole oikein mahdollisuutta ymmärtääkseni tehdä kunnon modifikaatioita tehojen tai huippunopeuksien suhteen. Ehkä ulkoisen akun voi rakentaa lisäämään rangea mutta siinä se taitaa olla. MyEwheelin kanssa ollaan suunnitelmia kehitelty jo yksipyöräisten arviointeihin tulevaksi vuodeksi. Itse olen niin onnekas että youtube nousi niin nopeasti että nyt voi maksaa editoijalle palkkaa niin ei ihan niin paljon aikaa mene tähän tube juttuun Liikun paljon Kotkan ja pääkaupunkiseudun välillä ja sitten aina ajoittain ajelen pohjoiseen. Että mielelläni tulisin kuvailemaan materiaalia jos ihmisiä kiinnostaa tavata. Naaman blurraukset luonnollisesti onnistuu jos ei kypärä peitä kaikkea. Yllättävät kuopat on nyt huomattu xD Muutamaan kertaan meinannut horjahtaa nurin niiden takia. Mutta nyt alkaa jo paremmin kiinnittämään huomiota tien kuntoon kun ajelee. Vaikka Veteran nyt ei olisikaan käytännöllisyyden multihuipentuma niin löytyy paljon muita sähköhärveleitä kompensoimaan sitä. Lisäksi videoilla on mahdollisuus saada rahat takaisinkin Veteranista kunhan vain tarpeeksi videoita tekee, joten varsinaisia tappioita ei voi tehdä Kiitokset kaikille vinkeistä
  34. 5 likes
    From A danish S18 owner this was published on the net: Dear Customer, As you probably know, or not, the first batch of S18 was qualitative failure. The rush, the lack of qualified personnel on assembly line and the quality control were unsuccessful. As a official King Song distributor in the EU, we feel obligated to solve all problems with your EUC. The most of them concern the suspenstion mechanism. We offer two options: 1. We take your wheel and improve the suspension, then send it back. All operation takes around 2 weeks. We have to agree the service date, because we have a lot of similar services. 2. We send you the repair kit and provide all support in DIY operation. Best regards, Ryszard EUNICYCLES.EU
  35. 5 likes
    Congrats! Its really a wheel in a class of its own at the moment. It aint magic and its still chinese built, but the recipe is good. Seems utilitarian and its just got so much power. Its a smooth power and it just really surprises you of how nimble it seems. I mean it aint an Mten, but within moments, I was carving and getting back MUCH less resistance than expected. The gyro effect is there, but not bad at all. In fact, the gyro 'issue' may be hte exact reason I was doing 40mph within minutes of stepping on it, and i didnt feel any wobble or imbalance. You should enjoy it for sure! I'd suggest the offroad tire. It rode so damn smooth, even in sweeping turns. Aside from a little noise, its a damn fine tire. Hell, looks like it may do well off road too. Yup, I dont think people will mistake this one as a toy, it just looks to mean business. I carried it up my stairs, you dont really want to do that. Did i mention how nice it is to know you can see your speed at a glance. Onboard controls in a good spot, simple effective, comforting. This is a wheel you can take on a long trip and just assume it needs no additions. Standalone for the win! Combined with the fact that you cant do firmware updates easily, it pretty much FORCES you to accept the wheel for what it is an d isnt, and enjoy the fact that no point in worrying about it. it is what it is. This is all opinions but you should know by now, Im quick to judge, even faster to dismiss, and enjoy focusing on the negatives. I'm not on anyones payroll, so at least you know that my opinions are mine and typically unfiltered. for better or worse...
  36. 5 likes
    Tässä videota tämän päivän miitistä. Pyöräilijöiden kanssa täytyy olla varovaisia!
  37. 5 likes
    Sorry for the slow posting. My day job is crushing my soul lately. Here are pics and instructions for Pocket C - this is the connection between the short-fat arm to the gray slider. I've changed the interior bushing slightly so that the thrust bearing doesn't bind to the shaft, but rather to the bushing. This requires an extra washer to be added to the outside. Will update procedure and pic shortly... There are interior and exterior bushings for Pocket C that connect to form a continuous hole for the shaft; increasing the ID surface area. The exterior bushing also fill that strange depression they've left in the arm - I guess this was for the lock washers. Anyway, at full tightness this connection now has almost zero friction 1. Place an M6 washer (7) onto a 15mm M6 bolt (1) 2. Place a 8x16x5 thrust bearing (6) onto the bolt after the washer. 3. Press interior bushing (10f) into Pocket C from behind - see pics 3 and 5 above of this bushing inserted 4. Insert exterior bushing (10g) into the top of pocket C - see pic 4 above. This shouldn't require much force. 5. Place a drop of thread locker (11) onto the internal threads of a 20mm x 10OD coupler (3). 6. Place this end of the coupler through bushing 10g and into bushing 10f from the top (pic 3). This coupler won't go all the way through bushing 10f. 7. Screw your bolt from steps 1-2 into the coupler from the back side. The thrust bearing will sit in the pocket of bushing 10f. 8. Place a 0.5" ID Teflon washer (8) onto the shaft - this will sit between the exterior bushing and the gray slider. 9. Insert the free end of the shaft into the hole in the gray slider. See pic 2. It goes on the inside of the slider. If you want to add lube, now is a good time. 10. Place a .5" Teflon washer (8) over the exposed end of the shaft. 11. Place a 0.25" ID Teflon washer (9) onto a 12mm M6 Bolt (2). 12. Place a drop of blue thread locker (11) on the threads of this bolt. 13. Screw bolt into exposed end of shaft. Tighten bolts on both ends.
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    So I did get a lawyer and the cops did soften their position somewhat. They said that if I got a driver’s license and had some “mechanical alterations done ...”, that there might be room for movement. The lawyer seems to think that the cops are referring to turn signals as they mentioned turn signals several times in their discussion. So I got an online International Driver’s License and I should have the hard copy in 2 or 3 weeks which if I take it to the department of motor vehicles they will allow me to take the closed course drivers test which would give me a valid Japanese driver’s license. If I did not go the International Driver’s License route I would have to take a automobile driver’s course which, in Japan, costs a small fortune. So, it seems that a lawyer’s letter had some effect but in Japan it can sometimes be 2 steps forward and 3 steps backward. I’ll let you know how this turns out.
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    WARNING!!! I HIGHLY suggest anyone who hasn't yet to double check all the scews and make sure they're tightened and especially the pedals. My pedals looked like they were tightened all the way but they were just loctited and only screwed in halfway. I definitely was able to tighten all 4 of the pedal bolts significantly more than they were. I suggest you untighten the pedals a good amount to break the loctite and then retighten them all the way to be sure.
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    I tried to equip my V11 with a Shinko SR244, a knobby trails tire, in 2.75-14. No go. The battery bulge towards the motor prevents rising the shell enough to clear the tire at the top. The SR244 is the largest 2.75-14 I’ve come across, so other 2.75-14 tires may still fit. To offer myself some consolation, I put on the ChaoYang H-666 I had as a backup. And what a consolation that turned out to be. My goodness how I LOVE this tire!!! Much more stable, almost immune to deep diagonal water grooves, more precise to steer, much more logical, and offers no negative surprises. In addition I can actually ride through mud puddles now, while on the C-1488 I had to tip-toe. And still slide around a bit. (The H-5102 on the S18 would just slide, period.) What a god damn shame they stopped manufacturing such a gem.
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    The other day I passed in front of a school on my inmotion v10. Lessons were over and dozens of students came out, many of them walking on the bicycle lane. As I slowed down and made my way one of them said to me "hey mister you are in the future" (monsieur vous êtes dans le futur) ... that was a funny one I thought ...
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    Just received my S18 This shows the new pedal hangers and the alignment of the mudguard, by the way the small mudguard at the back has already broken! I disconnected the shock to give an idea of the suspension’s stiffness out of the box
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    My S18 (Batch #2) was delivered on Monday, Sept. 14th. After disconnecting the linkages, I found that they did not have much friction, if any. Majority of the friction/binding came from the sliding tubes. Nonetheless, this is what I did to improve suspension performance: Washer shown here. Showing socket head insert nut protruding slightly past bearing's inner race. After taking this picture, I tightened bolt onto socket head insert nut. (I forgot to take a picture after I tightened it but see video for reference). Video showing spinning socket head insert nut and bolt: Removed "infamous" block (located behind foot pedals). Picture shows block already removed and laying on wheel hub. Moved seals to spray lubricant down sliding tubes and all other areas of black tubes. Suspension now moves way better than it did out of the box. It's not perfect, but does the job in my situation without disassembling entire S18. After I enjoy my wheel and have more time on my hands, I'm sure I'll take it completely apart to make more improvements.
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    Connection B (longer arm to black aluminum top) Instructions: 1. Press bushing (10a) into Pocket B. The bushing will extend out a bit on both sides of the arm to act as spacers. 2. Place one m6 washer (7) onto a 15mm m6 bolt (1) 3. Place 8x16x5 thrust washer on bolt on top of washer. This won't be centered, but that's ok. The bushing pocket will center it when assembled. 3. Add a drop of locktite onto the end of the threads of this bolt 4. Place 20x10mm coupler (3) through bushing (10a) in Pocket B 4. Screw bolt from steps above into the inside (towards the tire) end of the coupler. The thrust bearing will sit inside the pocket in the bushing - there's ~ 0.5mm clearance on the sides 5. Place 1/2" PTFE washer (8) over the outside end of the coupler. This will sit between bushing 10a and the black aluminum top. 6. Holding the bolt in place so things don't fall apart, insert the outside end of the coupler into the hole in black aluminum top. See pics - the arm is below and the black aluminum is on top. You'll need to keep holding the inside bolt until the outside bolt is attached. 7. Now's a good time to add some lube if desired 8. Place 1/2" PTFE washer (8) over the exposed end of the couple; against the black aluminum top. 9. Place one of the outside races of a 10x18x5.5 thrust bearing over the exposed end of the coupler. This should now site exactly flush with the end of the coupler (see 2nd pic). 10. Add some locktite to a 12mm m6 bolt (2) and screw into outside end of the coupler. 11. Tighten both inside and outside bolts simultaneously using two m6 allen keys. Feel free to tighten as much as you like - this connection won't bind when tight. My pics are too big so I'll post the others below in a few minutes.
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    Final parts list. I'll refer to these number in instructions and pictures to follow: 1. 15mm L x M6 Cap Bolts (8 total) -- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L56Z4SY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 $6.89 2. 12mm L x M6 Button Head Bolts (4 total) -- https://www.belmetric.com/6mm-c-563_581_584_606/sb6x10ss-button-allen-socket-head-stainless-p-3278.html $0.64 3. 20mm L x 10mm OD x M6 round coupler (4 total) -- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SQLZ568/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 $7.99 4. 25mm L x 10mm OD x M6 round coupler (2 total) -- https://www.amazon.com/Coupling-Connector-Threaded-Adapter-Stainless/dp/B07X9W4DS1/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=m6+x+25+coupling&qid=1600211214&s=industrial&sr=1-1 $6.99 5. 10mm ID x 18mm OD x 5.5mm thick thrust bearings (3 total) -- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QKKWM2R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 $6.69 6. 8mm ID x 16mm OD x 5mm thick thrust bearings (4 total) -- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0192SOXN0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 $7.29 7. M6 Stainless Flat Washers (4 total) -- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OK2AZK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 $9.52 8. 0.5" ID x 0.75" OD x 1/32" thick PTFE washers (6 total) -- https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-Washer-3-4-OD-1-32-thk-PTFE-Plastic-Insulating-Fastener-Z78070/392789577456?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=661675992196&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 $9.99 9. 0.25" ID x 0.562" OD x 0.062" thick PTFE washers (6 total) -- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006GHXY90/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 $14.52 10. Custom 3D Printed Bushings -- AMIDEX Glass Fiber Reinforced Filament (1/10th roll) -- https://www.3dxtech.com/glass-fiber-reinforced-filaments/amidex-nylon-gf30/ $68.00 a. Pocket B - internal bushing with built in spacer b. Pocket A - External Bushing c. Pocket A - internal bushing, extends into pocket D d. Pocket D - internal bushing e. Pocket D - external bushing f. Pocket C - internal bushing g. Pocket C - external bushing with built in spacer 11. Blue thread locker (1 tube) -- https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Heavy-Duty-Threadlocker-Single/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=blue+threadlocker&qid=1600211771&sr=8-3 $6.09
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    I upped the psi in both chambers. 200 down low, 100 up top. PURE BLISS. Feels somewhere between locked out and very tight/responsive configuration. In its current configuration the V11 surpasses every wheel I have ridden in almost all ways (MSP has more torque, but it is 100V). I still love my MSP, actually taking it up to the trails for some thrashing around in a few minutes! Current weight is... 248lbs Started this post on Sunday afternoon. Riding the MSP offroad was very satisfying, so much that I did 3 laps (normally do one) and went back for more this evening. All street riding has been on the V11, with the exception of a quick trip to the market on my MSP tonight (just wanted some raw power, lol). I am pushing my V11 almost as hard as my MSP(torque). That is quite a statement for a InMotion wheel. The V11 is my fourth InMotion wheel so I can vouch that IM has gone a different direction with this model. Sleeper performance wheel (suspension) of 2020 now that the EX is delayed IMHO.
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    Some nice pictures of the Monster Pro can be seen on the website: http://www.begode.com/productinfo/515827.html For example here's a detail of the charge ports and buttons.
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    Hey everyone, I have just joined today. My name is Mick, and I live in Northern Ireland. I got my first EUC around three weeks ago, and have about 6 hours of riding so far, but I am doing well, I managed my first long-distance (for me anyway) ride today of 8.6 miles on a local cycle path. I went for the King song KS18XL after reading reviews etc., and I am impressed its a great little piece of kit. I have rode high powered e-bikes like the Sur-Ron before, I also have a Kaabo Mantis Pro electric scooter and an electric longboard, so I am not new to electric transport, just new to the EUC world, and I love it so far. I do, however, need to build my confidence up on roads, but I think that will come with practice. At the minute I can wobble a fair bit when first starting, so I believe I should stay off roads until I build up the balance and muscle memory required. I randomly met another rider on my journey today, who told me about the forum. It was a surreal moment, as we were riding towards each other, both gesturing greetings. Anyway we stopped and chatted, and he told me about this forum. So I have signed up, we were both of the opinion we were the only EUC riders in Belfast, hopefully he will see this post. So hello from me, and I look forward to participating in the discussions.
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