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Showing most liked content since 10/15/2019 in all areas

  1. 10 likes
    I finally got my chaoyang tire today, waited about two months for it. So while i was at it i had a look at the results of my little dust mods that i did last time, rode about 150km with it. Where the mudguard is i stuck a bit of foam between the led strip and the rubber of the mudguard. Right there And i put some sticky velcro where the pedal hangers slide in. Result, not as much dust inside before the modification After the modification When i had the tire off the rim i took the advice from @buell47 and drilled the valve hole a bit bigger, the tire didn’t go properly onto the rim because the valve was too far out it already pinched the tire wall. The chaoyang is definitely slimmer than the CST, it’s got a lot more clearance to the housing. Couldn’t do much testing because it was getting dark and late so just did a few rounds around the block and i like it.
  2. 9 likes
  3. 9 likes
    I'm glad I can be myself, and completely open and trusting, with the people in my neighbourhood, for example, but the internet is a completely different beast. I really respect and admire your openness, nothing-to-hide, don't care what people think attitude online, but in my case, that's a luxury I can't afford. There are plenty of reasons to stay anonymous online. In my case, most of them have to do with employment, but I can understand how a retiree may have trouble relating to that But seriously. Employers look potential candidates up these days. Back when I was doing pro-bono work for some grass-roots organisations, helping the community and small businesses in my area stand up to large corporate interests who were screwing them over, I chose to remain anonymous because many of my clients are, in fact, large corporations and...that kind of stuff doesn't look good on one's resume I chose a pen name for the erotic novels I've translated because it doesn't look good when pitching to the private banking sector. And I'd also rather my activity in this forum to remain unconnected to my real-life persona too, so that when I claim I'm unable to take on a new project due to excess workload, my clients can't find out that I was in fact, out on my wheel all day or here on the forum Sometimes it's also about not wanting personal information shared in a specific forum (such as here), to be available to the internet at large > people outside the EUC community, for instance, whom the content was not addressed to....Who would want employers or potential future clients looking into your online presence and being able to read every single stupid comment or argument you've posted, without thinking, on this forum? (The battle of motorcycle gloves vs. Flexmeters vs. Flatland 3Ds; ridiculously heated arguments over pedal dipping; etc.). Openness and lack of ego are virtues, but one doesn't necessarily want everything he says, on any venue, to be accessible to absolutely everyone (particularly one's current or future employer). Things that might be innocent in one context (sh*itting on "these crappy Chinese apps") could be damning in another (a Chinese corporation screening you before assigning you a confidential project). And content shared online doesn't even have to be negative, there's also the audience--you share certain things with some people, and certain things with others. Always using your real name means you're traceable across any platform. Would an alcoholic use his real name in an AA forum? Should PTSD victims or war vets share their traumas using their real name in support-group forums? Would one use his real name as his porntube username? And then there's the fact that all of one's posts, interactions and activities, shared with his real name, are being shared with...whom? Strangers whom we know nothing about? In some cases, that might be true, but how important is one's real name here? What good is it to know that "Party_Crasher69", who's constantly disrespectful towards other users, is really named Peter Williams? Unless we plan on looking up where they live and carrying out a vendetta, I don't see what the difference is, especially considering that we're scattered all over the globe, and in most cases, will never meet in person anyway. So, who cares what a user calls himself? IMHO, in this forum, we're "judged" based on how we interact with others: the value of our opinions, our respect or disrespect towards others, etc. Our real name is irrelevant...here we're whatever we chose to call ourselves when we signed up, I don't think it matters whether that's John Smith or "SoloWheeler". Our "community standing" is what defines us, not our username (think criteria for choosing new mods: does their real name really matter? How many mods, whom we greatly respect, have shared their real name? And does that matter in the slightest?) Anyway...sorry for the rant, I think I've had too much coffee today... (excess coffee drinking > ranting on forums = procrastination + late bedtimes = lack of self discipline = info I don't fancy sharing with my employers by using my real name) You see what I mean?
  4. 9 likes
    Well I'm not privy to why KS changes design, but I can look at the boards and make some comments; Most of the board looks the same other than two more obvious things; The antenna coil (for the app Bluetooth) has been moved off the side of the board. Four bobbin inductors have be reconfigured and replaced with molded equivalents. Both of these can be seen in this photo (courtesy @chrisjunlee)... You can see the antenna underneath the secondary Bluetooth module at the top. And the four molded inductors are in the middle (with 220 on them). I am aware of at least one App connectivity issue, due to Bluetooth signal strength. This may possibly be why it has been moved - or it could be coincidence. What I can say is that my v1.5 board has the antenna coil off the board (like in the photo), but pointing right not left - so above the "onboard" zig-zag aerial. As for the purpose of the inductors... I will leave that for someone smarter than me to comment on what they might be for and why they may have been changed - perhaps @esaj might have some insights? What I can add though is some dates... Version 1.4 has the date 20190717 printed on the PCB - and the serial number for the one in my hand is from 190722 . Version 1.5 has the date 20190830 printed on the PCB - and the serial number for the one in my hand is from 190901 So what does that mean? The date printed on the board is not the date that the particular board was made, but the date that the design was set (and probably first etched). I know this because it is a part of the PCB manufacturing process (and not easy to change). Also, looking at some of the control boards for some established models the serial number date is many months later than the board date. It also indicates that KS roll out the new board versions very quickly after their availability as the board serial number - so not holding off until they clear stocks of the old version. Based on that, while derived from a bit of logical assumption, we should be able to estimate the version of a control board by the date of the wheel's serial number - note the wheel serial number is (as I understand it) based on the date of the control board flashing, this will be a "short while" before the serial number on the control board itself. So, my best guess is that wheel serial numbers prior to mid-July would most likely be v1.3 (or earlier). From mid-July through to the end of August would be v1.4 . And later than that most likely v1.5 . Remember though that this is based on assumption and speculation, with a little bit of logic thrown in there...
  5. 6 likes
    No. WheelLog companion app for Tizen is very simple. It doesn't support vibration or alarms in any way Just basic readouts. I plan to create set of consistently looking & working, EUC World companion apps for most popular smartwatches. Wear OS is currently in development, Tizen is planned next.
  6. 5 likes
    Thought I’d take the MSX for a spin on the track
  7. 5 likes
    No problem, dimensions in millimeters and inches:
  8. 4 likes
    I ride at modest speeds, usually 25-35kph and take my wheel everywhere I can. This means I need my protective gear to be quick to put on regardless of what I'm wearing and when I take it off I need it to be easy to carry with me in a bag. Hopefully at those speeds I make the choice that don't need the most protection in the world (not saying that still isn't wise though!). Even the Triple 8/Protec style knee pads with the plastic knee caps are a bit big in a bag (for me), when you add elbow pads, wrist guards (I use the Flexmeters) as well. For anyone else with a similar requirement, I have recently been using the Icon Field Armor Street Knee pads. Intended for light motorcycle use from what I can tell, they are strap on, they have D3O inserts as well as a hard cap, and what is great is they have an otherwise pretty flat profile when not being worn, which makes them very easy to carry in a bag compared to many other options. http://www.rideicon.com/gear/mens/protective/field-armor-street-knee/black Would recommend them, but also keen for anyone else's tips/recommendations for similar use cases. I know they won't offer the best protection available but I believe it's a good compromise. Cheers!
  9. 4 likes
    We met up with a River Valley Adventure Segway group on a beautiful late October afternoon. We always give respect to Segways as the original self balancing vehicles.
  10. 4 likes
    I thought this topic was about burning calories. Here’s my 2 cents about spikes:
  11. 4 likes
    Considering I just came back from my dentist appointment to get a tooth fixed (come to think of it ... what else would a dentist fix? ) I take this as a serious insult. LET THE DOXING BEGIN!
  12. 4 likes
    Join in the fun on the eve of the LA EUC Games. Meet at 3:30pm on Friday October 25th. We'll start at the skate park in Noho with jaws agape watching @Sidestreet Reny rule the turf, making us all want to drop out of the Freestyle event...😂 We'll sesh there for a bit, and then head out towards the Sepulveda Dam area around 4:15 for a concrete surfing session there on the actual dam! Plus a surprise you won't want to miss. Soooo fun! This ride starts on street bike lanes for a couple miles, then it's all bike paths until we get out to the Dam area. Out there, there's a bit of off-road opportunities, and amazing winding sidewalk bike paths around lakes, and under bridges. Fun and speedy route! It's around 9 miles out and 9 back, and we'll probably do at least 10 to 15 miles of riding around the parks and a lot of it is higher speed riding (if you like), so plan on a 1600wh wheel to ensure you'll hold enough charge for re-entry into North Hollywood, where we'll get back and tuck ourselves in early and be (fairly) well rested for the Games next day... Wheels with lesser battery can do most of the ride, and would be an easy Uber back, so please don't be discouraged to show up for this ride if you have a smaller battery wheel. Also, bring a trick wheel to ride at the skate park, then toss it in yer trunk and grab your long range uni-bots to roll out... *Our LAESK8 family of 2 or 4 wheeled friends are invited to join in the fun on this one too! 😎👽💜👊 Actual parking lot address for the Noho skate park (free) parking lot... 11455 W Magnolia Blvd Parking 11455 W Magnolia Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 91601 https://maps.app.goo.gl/c4ZaiAZG2P51tYcb9 https://www.facebook.com/events/380136792898583/?ti=cl ~image by Rehab 1 of the EUC forums~
  13. 4 likes
    That is a very nice idea (using music to signal presence), but I'm into black metal, and, well... Imagine you are walking along the pavement a dark chilly evening. You keep your head down and walk in a brisk pace due to the cold. From far behind you can hear the rising thunder of blast beats catching up, then suddenly a man screams out like he has been kicked in the nethers "THE HEAVENS MUST BURN!" and something flash past you, neon lights rolling like an experience out of "Close encounters of the Third kind", and then the unidentified rolling object zooms into the horizon with the sound of rolling drums and yells of "MORE BLOOD!". It would not go down very well in my neighborhood Jokes beside, do any app support playing short sound bites through the wheel speakers? Sort of "press button on watch, hear ringing clock sound from wheel" kind of thing?
  14. 3 likes
    I was a bit surprised to see such a sporty guy smoking, tbh
  15. 3 likes
    Just a reminder that the first of our 7-days of Southern California riding is fast approaching. We have over 20-riders joining us but barely any local riders The weather is looking great. Why not come out for a nice beach ride? We have riders from New Zealand, the Midwest, Northwest, and East Coast, among others. All the details are here: Electric Unicycle World If you're confused about any of the details drop a line here and I'll help you out @enigma35 @HeavyGoing @Marvin Ong @Mushuukyou @Tjtripp @Sven @unowheel @Questor @Roll Model @Mike Hanna @Jon Sawa @serfy @swvision @Kimosabi @zentype @ndmcc @Mimir @Josh Morgan @Shawn Johnson @IRK @MikeV @Peter Q @Sketch @captainwells @NBC44 @Stan Onymous @Gizmo Dork @Alsayyad @Chairman S @who_the @Dave Frear @roghaj @downtown @Yunicyle @Terenig @Dave U @Flying W @Heyzeus @NightRider @Mike Hanna @Klin @3euc @Unosolo @Williepimpin @Heyzeus @JomMas @BlackOutEX @Freewheeler @TomM @tihoa @Ferreal@Austin @Ben Richards @noisycarlos @Tanabe @Dzlchef @Ando Melkonyan @YoshiSkySun @n2eus @maltocs @1Wheeler @Rama Douglas @Nick McCutcheon @mark chanya @Jrkline "Wheel Whisperer" @Yellowman @Kens @UpDownGo @John Wood @TedTheAtheist
  16. 3 likes
    The UniStand 3000 files are live on Thingiverse. You can grab them here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3922352 Hope it works well for you.
  17. 3 likes
    I have them. They are my first knee pads before I bought Leatt Dual Axis. I wish I just purchase the Leatt and skipping these all together. These looks easy to strap-on (*wink) and off but the Leatt is actually faster and easier to put on and off. The material on these is really thick which is good for protection but they do not bend very well and they slides down during my rides no matter how tight I wear them. I don't have any of those problem with the Leatt. The only plus side is yes they are compact to store and carry and cheaper than Leatt Dual Axis. Yes the side is covered by really thick nylon material but the D3O only on the knee cap. You supposed to wear the straps on the inside of your knee which sometimes the hard plastic buckles rubs on each others. It's hard rubber but the texture is really smooth and slick. I'm sure it will slide on pavements even though not as good as hard plastic. When I wear them they always slides down so they covers my shins alright just not my knees
  18. 3 likes
    Sure, it’s good to keep the options open... Come on Marty, having a real name as the username hasn’t really prevented such behaviour, now has it?
  19. 3 likes
    Probably not. But my observation wasn't regarding the posting of illegal activities. The vast majority of people here don't use there real names and I have no idea who they are, what they look like, etc. Is this because they are all posting videos of illegal activities I doubt it. So I just don't understand the anonymous online culture as it applies to 95-percent of participants. I suspect it's so they can be A-holes to other people, which again is something I can't relate to.
  20. 3 likes
    From Norway Into black metal Who would have guessed Say hello to Gaahl from me
  21. 3 likes
    One of my truly terrifying experiences I've had on an EUC, one that made me avoid trails for some weeks, was hitting a rather small tree root going downhill that wasn't particularly steep, but then landing forward of the pedals, which then accelerated the wheel without the ability to move my feet back due to the bumpiness. Went downhill at some crazy speed without any real control, like full on Olympus moguls. If I bailed I knew I'd be tumbling, but if I delayed then the tumble would be worse. Oh, and there was a parking lot at the bottom; bailing would surely send the wheel into some car. After some time I thought simply to run off the trail and point the wheel back uphill (panic begates genius), and finally stepped off drama-free.
  22. 3 likes
    I completely agree on the prototype-style assembly. I rode the 16S a lot for a year, and the MSX since for 15 months now. While the 16S is clearly much more thought out package, during the 9000km it received I've had to replace a snapped pedal hanger bolt and dead cells on both battery packs, as well as fix four cracks on the outer shell. During the 8000km's on the MSX I've had zero maintenance related to wheel reliability, although two screw posts have cracked off from the shell as well. I've of course modded the MSX quite a bit, and replaced the main board, hall sensors and all motor wiring, but all those were solely because I tried to make it carry my 210lbs down and up a 300 ft hill so steep no EUC should ever face for longer than 20 ft or so. Added with the plethora of issues we've seen during the 18L and 16X launches, the tractor-like robustness of especially the MSX may be a better approach for building EUCs after all. A Nikola with the 2nd gen mainboard seems to be achieving a similiar reputation.
  23. 3 likes
    Thanks, I'm glad that my development work is beneficial to EUC community Originally, WheelLog reacted to peak (momentary) current values and this is what always triggered current alarm. The problem was (especially with Gotways) that there were no distinction between fraction of second peak current (eg. when going over curb, pothole etc.) or longer lasting, real overcurrent condition (eg. excessive load). So I added two alarm values. Now you can define 90 A as a current alarm and another, higher value (like 120 A or something) for a peak current. In this case if current will steadily go over 90 A for some time (usually second or two) it will trigger current alarm. At the same any single spike of 120 A and higher will also trigger current alarm. In general it's best to have peak current alarm set. It's value is EUC-dependent, but I'm unable to provide you best numbers: I'm a King Song guy For my KS-18XL I've set 25 A for current alarm and 30 A for peak current alarm and I consider these value to be rather conservative. 60°C is also rather conservative, "safe" value. When I was riding last summer in hilly areas, I had this value set to 65°C for my KS-18XL. This value is also EUC-dependent.
  24. 3 likes
    That’s exactly what I couldn’t shake from my mind when I replied... Followed by an image of a character from Ren & Stimpy bouncing up and down on the Monster and holding to the handle with both hands for dear life, mouth wide open and screaming...
  25. 3 likes
    People prefer to be anonymous so they don't get stalked, robbed, beaten, fired from their job because of what they say on the internet.
  26. 2 likes
    I figured I would get some real miles on both wheels before I post any thoughts on either. Nikola has 680 miles, Monster has 420. Find myself riding the Monster for longer distances but less frequently, Nikola for shorter, multiple distances. I did have a seat on the Nikola for a while, but with the Monster, it became redundant to use it. Riding weight 185 lbs, 177 lbs naked. Intro: Consider me one of the lucky Nikola 100V owners. Have not had a single issue since I received this wheel, rides perfectly, never had to open this wheel up for any reason. Got this wheel as fast as 39 MPH before the 5-beeps kicked in, and contrary to popular belief, I can hear them just fine even at that speed. Range figures constantly pushing 30+ mph with hard acceleration and cruising will be around 35-40 miles down to 20% battery. Nikola Plus 100V 1845Wh PROs: - Acceleration is sublime. There is nothing quite like it on the market. - Very durable shell. By many accounts, that shell has been proven to take a beating without cracking in most cases. - Cushioning for a 16 inch wheel is impressive. I would say it isn't much of a difference from my old KS18S that I sold. - Extremely nimble wheel, can turn 90 degrees on a dime and do tiny circles with no effort while waiting for cars to pass at intersections. - Stock paper speakers extremely loud, albeit of poor quality. For my needs (listening to sports radio, GPS directions) it is absolutely perfect. Nikola CONs: - Feels unbalanced. There is always a sense of myself wanting to compensate to my right a bit, but I've gotten used to it. Compared to wheels such as KS with their flat pedals, there will be somewhat of an adjustment period. - This unbalanced feeling will also lead to brake wobbles for the inexperienced. I find myself one-foot braking or going into a full on squat if an emergency braking maneuver is needed. The standard lean-back stopping method will undoubtedly lead to wobbling. - Starts feeling a bit unstable at speeds over 35 MPH. It's nothing you can't adjust for, but out of the box, you will notice this and lack a bit of confidence in your riding. - Trolley handle. Would it have killed Gotway to have a locking mechanism? Need to velcro strip the inside of the trolley so it won't go flying when you undoubtedly drop your wheel. - Angled pedals. This is a pro or con depending on your preferences, but I find my flat feet in constant pain when I ride this wheel for extended periods of time. I have to carve just to keep the pressure off my feet with a pigeon toed stance. - For as durable the outer shell is, it is also a scratch magnet. Anyone who makes custom wraps for these wheels will make a lot of money. (hint hint) - The tire could be a pro AND a con. For as soft and cushiony it is, it also has very poor tread life (estimated around 1500 miles) and replacing the tire is not exactly user friendly. Intro: I had the DOA Monster V3 2460Wh burnt in transit. I finally got it up and running, and it's had a fair share of issues even after the fact. 3D printed fan bracket broke (used gorilla glue and foam to secure it), axle nut came loose (used loctite red to secure it), pedal nuts becoming loose (used loctite blue). Mechanically it rides fine and has been reasonably reliable otherwise. Fastest speed recorded, 39.1 MPH, afraid to push the 5 beeps for any reason; although I'd love to join the 40 MPH club! Range figures are about 50-55 miles down to 20%, hard acceleration high cruising speeds. Just this weekend I did a 42 mile ride with 30% battery remaining. Monster V3 100V 2460Wh PROs: - EXTREMELY stable wheel. Although it is of a narrower width than the Nikola 16x3, the contact patch is much larger, which will help the wheel track straight with greater stability at higher speeds. It is amazing how you're going faster than you're feeling, almost car-like in that sense. - Best seated wheel on the market. I can easily stop the wheel seated in comparison to my 18S which wasn't nearly as easy to stop while seated. - Although it has the exact same pedals as my Nikola, the pedal angle is flatter which means greater comfort. It is an absolute pleasure to ride this wheel long distances with no fatigue. - Really eats up uneven roads and smoothens them out (very important in NYC). - Same speakers as the Nikola, my opinion of these are the same. Monster CONs: - Maneuverability. Given the size and weight of this wheel, quickly maneuvering it in tight spaces and even simply carving can be a high effort task; you really need to put your body into some of those turns. Maybe it's for the best, I can stand to lose some weight! - Dead stop acceleration. Anyone coming from a quick and nimble 14 or 16" wheel will quickly dislike the Monster and the effort it takes to torque this wheel. It is very possible to move the Monster quickly (both seated and standing) but it is something you will really have to dedicate yourself to learning. The key is to really bend into the wheel instead of doing the moonwalker lean (which won't end well). - Shell durability. Although from multiple user accounts, the materials used on the Monster V3 shell are significantly improved over the V2, there are still some weak points that need to be reinforced and protected. The plastic housing that is connected to the outer shell by a single Philips-head screw is brittle plastic, and if the wheel is dropped on its front, that is the first component that will snap. Inner shell corners, especially at the top need to be reinforced to prevent cracking if and when the wheel is dropped. Given I have dropped this wheel while handling (not riding) the contact points mentioned are what took the impact, and with the proper cushioning at those points, no damage occurred. - No trolley handle. Perhaps next year? - Useless rear taillight. Easy to miss for other motorists. Needs to be more obvious and brighter. - Poor fan placement on V3. Not sure how well it will dissipate heat in the worst summer days. Summary: With these two wheels, I'd say they are on opposite ends of the EUC spectrum. One accelerates quick, can turn on a dime with no effort but twitchy (like a sports car). Another is heavy, stable and comfortable (like an SUV). They are two different wheels for two different purposes, and the reason I own both is one wheel can compensate for the deficiencies in the other. If I HAD to choose one wheel over the other? It will depend on your priorities. For me, I'd take the Nikola if I could ONLY have one wheel. However, read through my thoughts on both wheels and decide which would work best for you!
  27. 2 likes
    I promised my wife and my body that I would rest for riding for at least a couple of days after this Saturday. After riding 7-days straight and then participating in the Games, there is no way that I can ride Sunday. I anticipate being totally exhausted. Maybe next month for me
  28. 2 likes
    @1Wheeler @3euc @Alsayyad @Ando Melkonyan @Austin @Ben Richards @BlackOutEX @Blueman @captainwells @Chairman S @Dave Frear @Dave U @downtown @Dzlchef @enigma35 @Ferreal @Flyboy10 @Flying W @Freewheeler @Gizmo Dork @HeavyGoing @Heyzeus @IRK @Jambo @John Wood @Jon Sawa @Josh Morgan @JomMas @Jrkline "Wheel Whisperer" @Kens @Kimosabi @kingkong18XL @Klin @Kyle K @M22 @maltocs @mango_fpv @Marty Backe @Marvin Ong @Mike Hanna @MikeV @Mushuukyou @n2eus @NBC44 @ndmcc @Nick McCutcheon @NightRider @noisycarlos @Peter Q @Rama Douglas @roghaj @serfy @Shawn Johnson @Sketch @Stan Onymous @Sven @swvision @Tanabe @TedTheAtheist @Terenig @tihoa @Tjtripp @TomM @Unosolo @unowheel @UpDownGo @Questor @who_the @Williepimpin @Yellowman @Yunicyle @YoshiSkySun @zentype Here we go, borrowed from @Kens
  29. 2 likes
    Me on Maggie, my new Airwheel S8: This is my blog, liebjabberings: https://liebjabberings.wordpress.com/2019/10/05/youll-never-guess-what-ive-done/
  30. 2 likes
    Now why would any halfway decent EUC manufacturer want to cheapen their product by including an iPhone?
  31. 2 likes
    Gotway are making three additional Nikola plus with 21700. The first one shipped for production is the one I have.. The Nikola plus has been confirmed as the only wheel that is wide enough to take two packs of 21700 cells, not even the MSX, as confirmed by Gotway. what do you all think about the Nikola shell now and it’s width? I think the width can now be seen as an advantage. The three in the video below have had to be partially hand built, and sent to erides.co.uk which speak volumes for the rarity of this Nikola plus configuration. 0846B03D-4D77-4F2D-A2BB-2BFED5713884.MP4
  32. 2 likes
    Very nice looking and flexible to fit all wheels. I'm not a 3D Print guy, but certainly this design could also be adapted by the 3D Print guys.
  33. 2 likes
    Wikipedia tells me that 15% of Americans do not have any medical insurance and, of those that are insured, 16m are under insured. That must mean that 65m people in the US are living in that worst case scenario. Then there are those that don't show up on the statistics at all - I spent 8 months travelling all round the US (motorcycle and tent) and I was amazed by the number of families I found living permanently off the grid in tents. I never asked about medical insurance but I'm fairly certain that these folk had none. It's a beautiful country but not a place you want to be ill (and poor).
  34. 2 likes
    Regardless of what I think of what that person did, going over this again would just be for argument's sake and wouldn't benefit anyone, but would just be more "flogging" for the user in question, which I don't think is necessary. Let's just agree to disagree
  35. 2 likes
    Effects, sure, but I was hoping to see the technique itself being explained or showed. If it really will decrease the effective tire diameter by any meaningful amount, the movement (or other method to achieve the effect) can not be very small.
  36. 2 likes
    +1 Which is the case 99% of the time
  37. 2 likes
    I believe current and newer Samsung smartwatches now use their own OS, called Tizen. Samsung does not use Wear OS. I think some of their older ones ran Android Wear, but I honestly don't remember.
  38. 2 likes
    @LZMutant I'm also in the "3 wheels / 12 months = Nikola+" club. My 100V Nikola+ arrives next week! Thanks for the info about the build quality. It's interesting to hear about your experiences coming from the Solowheels. My path to get there was much different: 18XL -> Monster V3 -> Nikola+. I bought the 18XL for myself and a OneWheel XR for my daughter to ride, but she decided she liked the Xaiomi 365 better. So I sold the XR, and what was I going to do with the extra cash?! Get a Monster V3, obviously. The 18XL is a fine all-around wheel. But the Monster... Wow. Crazy fun! So fun, I wasn't riding the 18XL, and a guy at work wanted to get in on the EUC action (another convert!). So I sold it, and what was I going to do with the extra cash? The charm of the Monster is how extreme it is. And I'm hoping the Nikola+ will be extreme in a different way (torque and maneuverability) and that will be reason enough to ride it. Love the lights. I want to try both wheels in off-road settings as well.
  39. 2 likes
    Aw man I’m not gonna eat sand any more.
  40. 2 likes
  41. 2 likes
    I'm also in the same place for a couple of months now. I'm a Z10 owner and i'm currently using the following alarms : Speed alarm High Priority at 43 km/h Peak Current at 46A Current at 38A Temperature at 64º And about 1 i only use the high alarm cause i know the medium and low wont help me with something, just extra vibrations on the pebble watch About 2 i was using 40A and i got a lot of extra alarm triggers for nothing, so i tested my self and the wheel in conditions, steep hills, acceleration on roads etc, i hope 46A for a Z10 wheel and a 105kg rider is proper Abour 3 i don't remember why i'm having it at 38A, i really don't remember And about 4 i was riding for 5 months at max 60º temperature and cause i'm a 105kg guy i can say you can reach 60º easy on everyday basis. I've read that it can go up more than that and that is why i've changed to 64º but still i can't know for sure the proper values to insert. So, is there a way, maybe a table or something, that based on the wheel and rider style + weight, can suggest proper setting for current +peak and temperature cause from what i've discussed with my close friends it's clearly a user thing, and nobody knows what to input in those fields, some guys don't even change them and keep default values which i don't know if it's what i should do.
  42. 2 likes
    This is genius!!!!! Works perfectly, thanks! Here is on of the videos. Spoiler: he claims it increases lifetime and corrosion-proofs it. Personally I'm not convinced. Too much effort and even risk for a very questionable result. If water or moisture gets in there, you will have a problem with or without that coating.
  43. 2 likes
    More photos of the Final look of the GotWay Dten scooter 84v 3500W 1060wh/1600wh 80km/h, just posted on Facebook by Fei Che Biao.
  44. 2 likes
    A local rider followed this rumour and lacquered the coils on his 16S motor hoping to reduce the whine. Result? Absolutely no difference whatsoever. Maybe the coils tend to get hot while riding, and the repeatedly loosening and tightening coils would bring up issues with time as they move and rub their coatings.
  45. 2 likes
    Wow... Suddenly I feel I am living in a tiny backwater country where everyone knows your name and no-one locks their doors - and I'm good with that! But reading through all of this, I do have three questions; How is it decided that a member becomes a moderator? What additional information does a moderator see? IF moderators do see additional sensitive information, is there any validation of them before they can access that information?
  46. 1 like
    Very nice custom work. Like I said earlier I have been playing with the idea of covering the charge ports better than just a cut out. I know you said there where some issues with not cutting out, but since I don't have my wheel I can't see what that would be. I am this little concept thought for you @The Fat Unicyclist I placed the strap and Velcro parts in that order shown due to it staying in place and not pulling too much on fabric and yet sealing the lower cut out. It does need tweak in size and placement. Just a concept.
  47. 1 like
    @Marty Backe : My apologies for the digression. It was just when you asked whether the Polish health care situation was because of Communism that I thought a quick injection of reality was needed
  48. 1 like
    Congrats on the soon-to-be new wheel of yours, @AtlasP! To prevent a minor disappointment later on, the highest tilt-back setting for GW wheels is 48km/h (31mph?). If you want to go any faster than the tilt-back allows, you must disable the tilt-back alltogether and rely on hearing the beeps. The 100V Nikola is an extremely fast wheel though, and you will likely not want to go 40mph any day soon. Besides just beeps at 15% battery, the only actual throttling (= tilt-back) you will get is when the battery reaches 0%. So if you are an aggressive or fast rider, you will have to throttle your riding style yourself a bit as the battery gets low. Although, 0% on a Gotway is still 3.3V per battery cell, which is about when an 18XL has just started the throttling. So your wheel is still easily capable of a peaceful acceleration to 30mph despite the battery being just about ”empty”.
  49. 1 like
    It seems it should have been suspiciously clear even in the first place that this was not meant to be public, but for the moderators only, namely for account verification? Looks like a tough task.
  50. 1 like
    Update: 10/1/2017 - I can now free mount! I haven't really spent any time practicing my manual unicycle. I think I might have practice no more than 2 other sessions, both less than 20 minutes before this and after my last update. It would seem that you just need to continue to ride and when you get good enough to ride, then free mounting comes pretty naturally. I can get on more 50% of the time. LOL... Still sweating like crazy riding. I'm still not very consistent. I can turn left, but not yet right. I'm also sitting more now so I can ride much longer than before. While my kids are learning to ride the regular bikes, I'm riding my manual unicycle. When I free mounted today it felt great! Screamed "Yes! Yes! Yes!" with hands pumping in the air. I tried it multiple times just to make sure it wasn't a fluke. I'm riding a better bike now, one that cost close to twice as much as my first one. This new one I'm riding is an orange one by Diamond, 20" same as my blue starter one. I still have a 16" in the box. Thought that if I couldn't learn on the 20" I could try it on the 16". I also figured out I made a mistake with the pedals on the blue one. There is a direction and a left/right orientation. No wonder the pedals kept on coming loose. LOL. Anyone who want to learn manual unicycle it isn't too difficult. I also put the technique I learned from slow riding on the EUC to use on the manual unicycle and it helped a lot! Lower body twisting.
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