Planemo

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The time has given me no excuse not to get back into my online Scotts Bass Lessons membership and get the Steinberg XT2 back out. The Mrs also has me pulling down my rickety old shed and then sort a base for a shiny new bigger shed. Theres 101 jobs on the house the Mrs has earmarked me for though

EUC Service are a Polish EUC seller/modifier similar in craziness to the crazy Russians such as ECO Drift. I love both these companies. Not only do they sell wheels as per any other retailer, but they push the boundaries by playing with, modifying and riding wheels to the point of destruction. Usually in conjunction with breaking their own bodies. All in an effort to push the envelope and find the limits so that we as mere mortals don't have to I like these type of sellers because they know the wheels inside out, not just the glitzy sales blurb.

Many of your recent comments, whilst somewhat worthy, simply do not apply (yet) to eucs. And dont get too hung up about faceplants caused by out of balance cells. The vast majority are nothing to do with the batteries.

Not sure how you propose to 'monitor' each group of 3 when the only wheel that can currently send this data is the Z10.

Exactly. And with the difference between (for example) a 1600wh and 1860wh msx being only 1.2kg, its a no brainer for me given the total weight of the wheel. I will add though that I dont carry my wheel anywhere generally

This talk brings me onto another benefit of having wheels with big (1850wh+) packs. Although I usually use most of my pack on a ride, there are times when I don't and may have 50% or so left. This allows me to go out for a little ride with my daughter without having to charge again, unlike my V5F which had to be charged every time I wanted to ride, and for most of the time so did the Z10. It just allows a little more flexibility and in general the bigger packs just don't see as many charging cycles. So I just wanted to point out that it's not all about the added range available per trip from bigger packs, they also let you manage your charges more effectively which ultimately reduces the number of cycles

Yeah I wouldn't fancy short circuiting anything on a Gotway! Theres very few safety measures built into either the wheel or motherboard (and no fuses present anywhere) so that along with the constantly live charge circuit means you have to be especially careful with Gotways. I think all GW boards have the additional 5v and lift switch ports. But they do change location depending on what version board you are working with so again you need to be careful. Pictures and locations have been posted on this forum before.

Quite a few have done it. There are probably a few threads on this forum about it. Try looking at the msx mods one for starters.

I have been working lithium with RC most of my life as well, although it was only Ni-Cd/Ni-Mh in my earlier days lol. Jason seems to do a pretty good job of customer support so if he was having issues with the MSX's in question I think we would all know about it. And lets not forget that he is far from the only person who has sold them. To summarise, yes of course it would be nice to run a single bms for the entire wheel but at the moment we are where we are. I and many others are happy to ride the 100v 1850wh msx, nobody is saying anyone else has to

Do you seriously think that all the wheel manfacturers and modders go to the length of matching cells? Whilst I agree with your view on matching in a perfect world, I am sceptical that the manufacturers doing anything beyond making sure they are the same make and model is a pipe dream. Ageed, as I have said on this thread.

Interesting view. Do you have anything to substantiate it? Well the ones that the respected ewheels were/are selling aren't because Jason pulled a sub pack apart to prove it had a BMS. Gotway never officially sold an 1850wh 100v MSX either.

The sub packs do indeed have exactly the same make and model of cells as the main packs. My wheels never go below 20% indicated whilst riding so likely 30%+ at rest. The 'newer' sub packs are only less than 400 miles newer than the main packs but yes you're right I wouldn't have done this conversion on a wheel that already had 1000's of miles on it. I was however satisfied that the profiles on my main packs with only around 7 full charge cycles on them would not be significantly different (if at all) to the new cells in the sub packs. With the amount of riding I do, it would take years for the packs to become 'expired' to the point where it would affecting the range significantly. I also did this conversion for several hundred pounds less than it would cost me to sell the 84v and buy a 100v. I also didn't have to wait 2 months for delivery. And, crucially, I am not convinced that even if I did buy a new 100v 1850wh MSX, the battery setup would be any different to what I have done to mine. Thats part of my point. Its all well and good people saying 'just buy a 100v already done' but unless I am proved otherwise, I am convinced that ALL 100v 1850wh MSX's are done the same way. So why waste 100's of pounds and wait 2 months to end up with what I already have And that is the million dollar question. No one quite knows. All I do know (if my suspicions are correct) is that there are many, many 100v MSX's out there with the same setup and I haven't heard of issues yet. I will make it clear, this conversion isn't for everyone. I did the math and it worked for me, but it also took a lot of my time and I didn't even build the sub packs. There was a lot of checking and re-checking, plus even relatively small jobs like simply changing the charge port from 4 pin to 5 pin wasn't quick as not only does the shell need to be split but the wires and plug, being caked in hot glue took some time to remove. Admittedly the extra time I spent in wiring in an XT90 and upgrading the wiring from it to where the packs in each half of the wheel come together probably wasn't needed but it made sense to me.

Hi Steve, I think most of the shipping companies will refuse to take a battery this size. I might try looking up UPS but I think it will be expensive even in the uk. I will let you know. Alternatively, if you wanted to buy/put a deposit down I would hold it for you until you next come down south. Even if I couldnt meet personally due to shifts I could give it to Andy who often rides with the London guys.

Sorry I cant do overseas. Even mainland UK will be a problem unless I can arrange a face to face contact with the buyer. Thanks anyway.