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  2. That's a good question. I've seen readings of 32 amps when I accelerate hard on the 18XL. Using Darkness Bot. I'm 265 lbs. Not sure that helps at all.
  3. I have broken the 84V motherboard and I bought another 84V, but the one that came to me is different from mine. It is from MSuper X, but the connections are somewhat different and the transformer of my motherboard is yellow ........... the one that has arrived to me is black and the winding looks a bit. My question is whether it is MSX 84v, can I connect it equally or .............. if the connection is the same, do the lights work differently or do not work or something like that?
  4. Current alarms, as written above imho makes no real sense with an KS16S. They are for GW wheels to prevent blown mosfets/molten wires.
  5. Imo not - depending on charge on could hit before max tiltback speed (35km/h) the overlean limit somewhere between 15 to above 30A. Setting an alarm to 15A is very boring, setting it to 3x A gives just an usefull alarm at full battery. So imho the best is to get experienced with your wheel and do just low accelerations at high speeds. Do the "show off"/fun accelerations just at low speeds. Then the 35 km/h tiltback/beep will keep you save.
  6. Thanks man, I get it now. How about setting an alarm level in wheellog for Amps? I'm 195 lbs on the 16S
  7. Nice mods But boy, I'm exhausted after just reading about all that you did. People complain about having to fix Gotway inadequacies, but the 16X takes it to a whole new level. A+ for superior KingSong quality If I ever get a 16X I'll reference this page. Not sure I'll have the energy to do all of this, but maybe a few items. Thanks.
  8. Just placed an order for two pairs from Roll.nz! Cant wait.. (now just have to wait for Roll.nz to make the 16x protector )
  9. From this video it looks like it should just snap off at that point: Not sure if it's the same on the V5, but on the V10, the covers snap in place and was really hard to get off. I thought I was going to break the cover before it came loose, but just had to pry the crap out of it with a screwdriver. I wrapped the end of the flathead screwdriver in electrical tape to cushion it and damage the plastic a bit less. Then started prying at the point where it separated the easiest and gradually worked it around the shell, similar to that video. Eventually it popped off, but it took quite a bit of force. I hate these kinds of snap together designs, even though they do feel more solid when assembled.
  10. Maximum available torque reduces with speed. So if one accelerates hard, one hits the wheels limit way before any tiltback or beep and overleans. If one accelerates very carefully one can "ride the tiltback" while the wheel beeps like crazy (...as long as one hits no pothole/bump/incline...) ... So no answer to your question is available. Depends on your driving behaviour/anticipation/foresight/actual safety margin (depending on the wheel/speed and burden)/willingnes to take not (foreseen) risks...
  11. Hello, can you replace a motherboard with a different version?
  12. Ninebot S2 is an "outdated"/old underpowered wheel. But if you prefer a light wheel and can cope with "low" speeds/accelerations and by this lower safety margins it could be a great wheel. Many of us started with a wheel like this or even less powerfull und we were excited - times changed and by now it's outdated. If weight is the most important for you it could fit. But you have to accept/live with it's limits and ride accordingly or faceplant. Ps.: The price has to he low enough for choosing it!
  13. Man thank you so much!!!!!!!
  14. Hello! i am new to this forum but i was wondering if the ninebot s2 is a good vehicle. I am looking for something that can go at least 5 miles a day and isnt too heavy. also has anybody had experience learning to ride it? thanks!
  15. my guess is firmware glitch. if all else works, the rgb modes change with wheels speed and you can toggle it. all the rgb strips are connected together. starting with the tail, then rear and front.
  16. Here a short result after another 200 km mainly offroad, 40 km on wet forest roads and 1 km in rain. The second modifications to the mud flap, the rubber buffer at the front and sealing the passage at the pedal holder were a great success. I can see some dirt at the bottom of the case, but that's only a fraction of what was in after 20 km. Otherwise I don't see any dirt in front of the LED strip like before.
  17. Today
  18. Nop, have no issues with calibration. Do you think that is related to the turn signal as well? The wheel rides fine. Just the left blinker is always on.
  19. I'm not sure what CYT tire I have, but to me it feels just like the pre-production that I loved. I didn't love the CST tire. I just got some more CYT tires and will be swapping out the CST on my Nik+ to it when I have some time. itching to do it, but need to find time to swap it out, maybe tomorrow.
  20. If you want to know about overlean "prediction"/alarm you can take a look at Unfortionately the sampling rates of the reported values are too low (about max 5 samples per second), so this would have to be implemented in firmware (about >100 samples per second?) by the manufacturers.
  21. Here is a newbie question, so is it warning beeps, (ignore), tiltback happens (ignore)=faceplant cutout? I have read quite a few people say they "ride through tiltback". Also what is a good amp alarm level for 16s?
  22. @Patton250 I'm hoping to work on my wheel tonight, and tho I'm not taking the wheel out, I can show you the way to take out the wheel without having to remove the control board and all that jazz. Don't even need to separate the halves. I'll make a quick video to explain and point things out!
  23. At least I know which wheel I'm waiting for next, 126V Nikola. But NOT the first batch!
  24. You turn the wheel, as in your direction of travel. Easy on pavement. But often resulting in a minor spill on dirt or grass. You have to get used to crashing and/or bailing, learn how to handle the wheel on dirt and crash at low speeds, so you you'll know what to do in order not to crash at the higher speeds on pavement.
  25. Hey, great to hear from you Nick Welcome to the Nikola club I'm sad that I still only own 84-volt wheels, but I am getting the 126-volt Nikola. Right now the plan is for Gotway to send me one of the first working wheels. Just need to wait I do hope you're fully happy with the Nikola even though it has it's faults. I still love mine and haven't changed my opinion. My ACM2's still work great. Unless you really need the cash, just keep it
  26. Thanks mate, How do yo put the wheel uphill? pressing with only one feet to force it to spin? or, are you talking about braking the wheel and jumping after? What about sharp curves in the middle or in the end of a down of a hill, any precaution?
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