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  1. 39 likes
    [Split from "Questions about new BT announcement by KS"] Dear @Jack King Song, Would it be possible to disable the confirmation "beeps" for example when starting app, changing wheel settings etc. ? Will there be a possibility to mute beeps? I'm sure many KS users would love to make their wheel silent.
  2. 28 likes
    *** As a heads-up to everyone, this is a LONG post! If all you want is to see the end result, there are image gallery links posted at the end! *** Last year around June I got a funny little idea in the back of my head... I wanted to make my own custom EUC! This idea stayed with me for months. I ate, drank and breathed it. And then the LA EUC Games came and went and the fires of my inspiration were stoked with friggin' gasoline! I realized that it wasn't going to go away until I executed on it, so I started jotting down everything that popped into my head. I filled multiple little notebooks with sketches and notes on everything I could think of: from possible chassis designs and overall shapes, battery configurations, wheels and motors, pedals and their hangers, ride mechanics, control boards, cooling, internal wiring, chargers, power supplies, trolley handles, lights, speakers, fenders and mudguards, dash cams, stands, seats, built-in tools/supplies, waterproofing, padding and control, ergonomics, materials and durability, crash scenarios and survivability, I/O and interfacing, ease of maintenance, ability to modify and add to... The works. If I thought it, I wrote it down. And then I saw a posting in the Private Sales section advertising a great-condition Gotway Monster V1 for sale near me. I jumped on it immediately and never looked back. I knew that the Monster would be the perfect base on which to build my new wheel because I already owned a Monster V2 (thanks eWheels!) and loved it to death. The 22-inch tire was amazingly stable and cushion-y; it provided a wonderful ride and when combined with its 2000W-rated HB Motor, it gave me all the power I needed. The huge 84v battery (it was the 2400Wh version ) was exactly what I needed in a wheel that I wanted to be able to take me anywhere, and I could go as far as I reasonably wanted to in a single ride. I knew that one of the main things I wanted with this wheel was to have higher pedals, so I contacted @Jason McNeil at eWheels and he sent me a "lift kit" for the Monster consisting of MSX pedal hangers and all the associated hardware plus a set of Nikola pedals. And then I had to stop and think about an important detail: The control board. ***There is an entire sub-story here in which I tried to figure out how to design the wheel such that the control board could be top-mounted, rather than on one of the sides, but I ended up deciding that without having Gotway make me a custom firmware for a specially-oriented board, it would just be safer not to get TOO experimental with it. *** The V1 board that came with the used Monster just couldn't do justice to the motor, and the firmware, while I love it to death for what it is, just did not meet my needs. So I contacted @Jason McNeil again and got my hands on a brand-new Monster V3 control board to tinker around with! And wouldn't you know it, this happened just after Gotway started shipping out the new MSP-style control boards! I covered some of my adventures with the new board in this thread: Once the Control board was decided on, I threw myself into actually designing the wheel and went through TONS of iterations trying to get everything JUST so. I used a free online CAD tool called TinkerCAD (https://www.tinkercad.com/) to make my designs, and eventually refined it down to something that I liked. And then I scrapped the design and redid it about 8 times until I ACTUALLY liked it. Here are some screenshots of it in TinkerCAD (I can provide closeups on different parts if people are interested): Now, there is no accounting for taste and there never will be, but BOY does the final design tickle my fancy! It has so much functionality it's hard to list it all in one place, but I will try: Raised pedals: Increased ground clearance - great for off-roading and dealing with obstacles (high enough to completely ignore most curbs). Altered ride dynamics - being so much closer to the axle leads to a VERY different ride experience from a normal Monster. It is peppier and easier (less effort, but not faster...) to accelerate/brake, and corners can be taken much more sharply and without ANY fear of pedal scrape. However, your body's slightly higher center of gravity can be a bit disconcerting until you get used to it, which can cause a bit of awkwardness when stepping on and off. Super durable frame: Made entirely from pieces of ABS sheet plastic chemically bonded together, the frame is extremely tough but with enough yield to prevent shattering or major cracking during a bad crash. Support lines and critical areas are made of thicker stock (1/4" or 3/8" material) and all mechanical connections use multiple stainless steel 20mm M6 countersunk bolts and brass threaded inserts embedded (heat) deeply in the frame material. Frame strength was verified (repeatedly) with a 4lb dead-blow mallet at multiple points and angles to simulate crash impacts. (I whacked the sucker as hard as I could and didn't leave a scratch!) Built-in eWheels fast charger: Built into the top section of the chassis, the charger provides all of the benefits we've come to know and love. It runs at 84v with adjustable 1A-5A charge rate and 80%-100% charge level. The electronics look great and sturdy with proper anti-vibration measures, there were multiple attachment points for the circuit board, the reliability is top-notch and the voltage and current readout just make me smile when I see it doing exactly what I want. The Charger plugs in through a standard C13/C14 plug in the "trunk" of the wheel where a 12-foot cord is also stored, allowing it to be used almost anywhere and the cable/cord replaced with a spare easily in case of emergency. The wheel also has a standard Gotway 84v plug (also located in the "trunk") that can be used to charge the wheel in case the built-in charger becomes inoperable for some reason. Automatic Plug-less Charging Dock: Charging plates on the bottom of the right side of the chassis allowed me to implement Plug-less Charging when the wheel is placed on its stand. Each of the two plates has a matched pair of spring contacts on the dock that spreads the potentially high current levels between them and prevents heating at the contact point. A properly-rated waterproof micro-switch keeps the spring contacts on the stand itself disconnected form A/C power until the stand is in use (until the wheel is placed on it). Because the stand is simply passing AC power to the wheel for use by the onboard fast-charger, the contact plates on the wheel itself are physically isolated (relays) from the charger circuit when not in use. This prevents a possible shock hazard by disconnecting the charge plates when the onboard charging cable is plugged into the wall. Auxiliary 12v battery: 4 individual 12.6v battery packs connected in parallel, each with its own BMS. Cells are all older Samsung 2200mAh 18650s reused from one of my old Ninebot One E+ battery packs (all cells in good health). There is a built-in charger as well as a relay that disconnects the charger from the battery packs when it is not charging to prevent vampiric drain. This battery pack provides power to several individual systems that I wanted to be able to function without the wheel needing to be powered up: primary headlights, accent lights, bluetooth speakers and aux power. ***Feels good knowing that I have a part of my first wheel with me wherever I go on this thing!*** Automotive headlights: 2x 10w LED (Cree T6) aftermarket lights - most often used as additional headlights for motorcycles. As anyone who has experienced the new MSP headlights can tell you, these things can throw some photons! The difference here is that because of their all-metal construction they don't require any kind of fan or active cooling, and they are both individually adjustable so I can have my light exactly where I want it and change it whenever the situation calls for it! It's wonderful being able to have one light focused right in front of me if I need it and the other aimed either WAY down the road (these things are BRIGHT), up into the trees, towards (or away from) traffic, or straight down to give myself more ground presence. Heck, I can even rotate it all the way around so it's flush with the chassis, effectively turning one light off if I don't need that much brightness for some reason. EVA foam padding: EVA foam (craft foam) is a wonderful material that I have long used on my wheel mods, and it definitely makes its presence known on this wheel. It is relatively stiff and holds its shape well, but is also pliant and forgiving. It is easily shaped and formed, can be sanded/molded/heat-formed, most adhesives bond to it without issue, and it is generally resilient and able to deal with repeated use. Aside from the ABS frame, handle and "kickstand", the entire top section of the wheel is made from EVA foam. This means that the entire top of the wheel (including all of its possible contact points with your body) is a soft but firm "padding". High-visibility Reflective skin: The EVA foam used to construct and clad the different segments of the upper section was completely covered in 3M Scotchlite fabric. This is the same material used as silver striping on safety vests. It is durable, feels silky smooth, has a beautiful (subjective of course...) matte/satin appearance, and is INCREDIBLY REFLECTIVE. If this wheel is ridden at night, people WILL see it several hundred meters off, and because the reflective surface is so large and wraps completely around it, there are no "blind spots". Also, the majority of the black plastic surfaces on the wheel have been covered in a black reflective vinyl, which behaves much like the Scotchlite fabric with a thin black overlay. It looks black in the daylight, but at night if there is a light pointed anywhere near it, it will reflect back as a bright silver/gold color depending on the color of the light. Trolley/Lift handle: The lift handle on this wheel was designed to be just high enough off the ground as to make a trolley handle unneeded, but not so high as to make someone... uncomfortable while riding it The handle is made of polycarbonate tube (incredibly strong) with Scotchlite fabric inside and sturdy ABS braces that are designed to easily survive a violent crash. The braces are in turn attached to a 3/8" polycarbonate sheet that acts as a "lid" for the wheel's upper section/compartment. This sheet allows the charger electronics to remain visible for easy inspection as well as allowing the non-contact motor cutoff switch to operate freely. Non-contact Motor Cutoff switch: I got tired of dealing with motor cutoff switches that were unreliable or eventually failed from overuse or water/dirt/dust ingress. To solve this problem I decided to use a photoelectric switch aimed at the bottom of the handle to trigger the motor cutoff. It works fantastically! It never fails to trigger when a hand or glove is placed into the opening beneath the handle. Removeable Seat attachment: Riding seated is almost necessary for the distances that a fully-equipped Monster can take you, so of course I made a seat for this wheel! Very simple ABS construction with 1"-1.5" of neoprene padding on top. Wonderfully comfortable and stable. Full Body Waterproofing: I have commuted 8 miles to work on my MSuper in the pouring, drenching rain many times. It's never much fun aside from the novelty, but the wheel always survived. However, a few times upon opening my MSuper for normal maintenance I have found evidence of water intrusion all over the batteries, cabling, and bottom of the inside of the chassis! This was chilling to me, because that could have EASILY caused a crash. For this reason, EVERY connection point on the frame and cover panels is gasketed, preventing water intrusion. Wheel covering: I added an EVA foam "hub-cap" to both sides of the wheel. This was primarily for aesthetics, but I also realized later that it actually makes the wheel significantly more efficient in terms of air resistance - the spokes of the wheel are no longer stirring up the air as much. I also added a section of the "hub-cap" that can be lifted up (this section is held in place with copious amounts of velcro) to expose the innertube valve. Additional heatsink area: I discovered sometime last year that a standard, cheap aftermarket M.2 heatsink (the type used on SSDs that use the M.2 form-factor) could be added to the exposed side of Gotway's newer-generation control boards to significantly increase their surface area and cooling capacity. I have made this mod to my MSuper, my Monster V2, and now this bad boy, and it REALLY helps with control board temperatures! Neoprene Battery Cradle: The compartments that hold the primary batteries for the wheel are surrounded by a layer of foam padding on the sides, and a much thicker layer of squishy neoprene padding on the tops, bottoms and backs that help to absorb any physical shocks encountered while riding. This takes a major strain off of the axle when you hit bumps and the like, and also serves to protect the batteries themselves. Essential tool storage: I decided early on that I wanted an easy-to-access place built into the wheel to store whatever I might need to address issues/accidents while out in the field or away from home, just in case something burned, popped, or needed to be replaced or anything. I wanted to always be prepared and never have to even think about it, so I made sure that the "frunk" (front trunk) area was designed such that it can fit and secure the small assortment of Hex-wrenches necessary to take apart EVERY mechanical connection in the wheel, as well as a micro bicycle pump in case of minor flats. Dual dash-cams (forward and rear): I installed a good-quality dual dash-cam setup (1 "brain" and 2 cameras) that was designed for motorcycles. The cameras are completely waterproof, and are built into the "bumpers" on the wheel - one facing forward and the other one backward. This system supports up to a 256Gb SD card, which means that when both cameras are recording at 1080p I get well over 12 hours of straight recording time! The dash cam turns on and powers off with my wheel so I never have to think about it - if I'm riding, I'm recording. It feels great knowing that if anything happens, I have proof - even if I never see it coming... Dual 40W Waterproof Bluetooth Exciters (speakers): While I have never before felt the need to blast my music loud enough for everyone to hear it, I decided it would be kind of fun to turn up the TRON soundtrack as I'm blazing around the city at night every once in a while... To that end, I decided to attach some high-powered "exciters" to the inside of the chassis. These neat little devices use the chassis itself as the speaker diaphragm so I don't have to break the integrity of the chassis by drilling holes for traditional speakers! And they are LOUD. I'm just using a cheap little 15-20w per channel bluetooth amplifier to drive them, but uh... you can hear me coming if I want you to Best of all, the system is controlled by an external switch and runs on the auxiliary 12v battery pack I built into it, so it only turns on when I WANT it to, not every time I turn the wheel on. Lookin' at you, Gotway... "Kickstand": The rear end of the top section is designed for the wheel to rest on when it is not in use. Just tilt the wheel back until the "taillight" is resting on the ground, and the wheel will sit upright and perfectly stable. "Accent" lighting: One of the most iconic features of the vehicle I took my inspiration from for this wheel is its distinctive headlight and taillight. I tried to recreate them with what I think is great success! I used super high-density white LED strips behind a piece of diffused plastic for the laser-like front headlight and it is incredibly bright and directional. The tail light is a more standard density red LED strip, also directed through a piece of diffused plastic and is very bright and visible. This is another system that runs off of the auxiliary battery and can be turned on without the wheel active. Undercarriage lighting: I decided that undercarriage glow lighting might look interesting at times, so I installed a pair of waterproof 5v RGB LED strips in the "wheel well" above the wheel itself, and wired them into the control board's headlight circuit. This gives me soft undercarriage lighting of whatever hue I want that illuminates the tire, wheel and ground below as long as the wheel is running. Makes for a cool effect! Auxiliary power port: I am a modder, and I know that in the future I will probably have an idea that I want to implement on this wheel. To that end, I left a switch-controlled DC power plug on the wheel's main IO panel that is connected to the auxiliary battery. It can run basically anything that takes 12v and I don't need to worry about it being able to push enough current! If the future me requires power, he shall have it! Phew, that was a lot of stuff! And there's a LOT more that went into the particulars of the design that helped me eliminate problems I have come up against in my other wheels and have heard other people mention about theirs. That said, I started out to write a simple post here, not a book (and I fear that has already happened...). I have already put almost 300 miles on the wheel now that I have built it and I must say that it is AMAZING! It rides like a dream. All the power of Gotway's latest wheels with a spunkiness to it that's all its own. Comfort, and a sensation of plantedness that I haven't experienced before on any other wheel. It behaves and moves like a much smaller wheel thanks to the pedal placement, but doesn't give up any of its imposing authority or stability. It feels fantastic in a way that you just have to try for yourself. Well, try and get used to, because it is a CHUNKY boy (about 80lbs worth) and has some quirks that go along with it. The inertia, center of gravity, leg contact points and how the firmware interacts with both it and you are different from anything else I've ridden and can take some time to acclimate to. That said, it's my new favorite wheel, hands down. I took a bunch of pictures during the fabrication and assembly process (when I remembered...) and have posted them in several albums on Flickr. The photos don't have captions so if you have questions feel free to ask! Here ya go! Frame Construction: https://www.flickr.com/gp/188158875@N06/9vdtgU Populating Top Compartment: https://www.flickr.com/gp/188158875@N06/84W13u Wheel Cover: https://www.flickr.com/gp/188158875@N06/9Z44wv Populating Sides and Underside: https://www.flickr.com/gp/188158875@N06/vXnX9v Front and Rear Bumpers: https://www.flickr.com/gp/188158875@N06/hk7797 Side Pads, Nose and Tail: https://www.flickr.com/gp/188158875@N06/24eq52 Frunk, Trunk and Skin: https://www.flickr.com/gp/188158875@N06/0P7A4f Primary Batteries and Wiring: https://www.flickr.com/gp/188158875@N06/jr4776 Charging Stand: https://www.flickr.com/gp/188158875@N06/549D0J Final Assembly: https://www.flickr.com/gp/188158875@N06/s3PH30 Vanity Shots: https://www.flickr.com/gp/188158875@N06/iVs4iC
  3. 28 likes
    Hello everyone, This is Liam Zeng, Marketing Manager, from INMOTION headquarters. It has been a while since our last update here. Thank you @Chriull for giving us a special section to discuss our new innovative suspension wheel-Inmotion V11 electric unicycle. For the past few days, tons of information and questions about #inmotionV11 coming in are collected. We will try to answer every question and update it. Please follow the topic. Thanks Landing Page: https://www.inmotionworld.com/product/inmotion-v11 Suspension Q: Suspension have any specific maintenance to be done? A: There is no special maintenace need to be done except pump in different volume of air into the suspension tube once or twice a month. Since the tube is hidden inside the cover, it's not easy to break. Q: Is it interchangeable with other options available on market? A: It's Inmotion Customized suspension tube. No other replacement available on market. Q: Compared with KS model, from my perspective, what are the main strengths of V11? We don’t have the S18 in our office so that we can’t look into the details. But the hidden design of V11 will make it more compact and not easy to break. Second, V11 design is more flexible to adjust the suspension travel by pumping different volume of air. As I know, S18 only has two level adjustment. I guess, we need to get the sample to find out or @Kuji Rolls might has the answer. Power and Speed Q:IM Live(launch event) showed a 50% more powerful motor compared to V10, and a few hours late V11 power was declared the same as V10. The reason why V11 can offer stronger power is that the size of V11 motor bearing is two times bigger than V10F. Moreover, the quantities of MOS unit on V11, 12 units, is also two times more of the V10F, 6 units. It means that V11 can bear bigger current, and not easy to overheat. The rated power of both V10F and V11 are 200W. Like extreme condition, like bumps, climbing hills, the wheel will generate mass power that is much stronger than the rated power 2000w. It might be 3000w, 4000w, 5000w in peak power. In other words, the peak power of V11 is much stronger than V10F. Q: Battery Throttling begins at and Battery and reduced speed. Big change. First time of compromise on the speed limit. It's easy to fix, but not easy to make the decision. Above 30%, Top speed 50km/h; Above 80%, Top speed, 55km/h. Btw, 55km/h is another firmware that will be shared on this forum not for standard version. Inmotion V11F Possbility Q: INMOTION always a latest F version, can we wait for a V11f soon? Is next INMOTION EUC built in suspension too? A: Currently, we don’t have any plan to launch a F-version. More time will be needed to test the first generation suspension wheel, then we will think about what’s next. IP Rating Q: Since it is was built for off-road, can we expect a more resistant monocycle in all directions (pedals, motor a axis)? Also about water and dust resistance? A: The capability of waterproof, and dust resistance is highly improved from the previous model. The IP rating of the whole body is IP 55. The battery is IP 67. And pls don’t worry about the dust might get into the controller that locates below the anti-spin button. It looks empty but it can be washed by water if the dust and mud get attached on it. Add-on Accessories Q: Is there any V11 external accessories? (smartwatch, decorative LEDs, BT speakers, pads, shell colors) Add-on accessories: Seat, BT Speakers, Decorative Ambient Light are under development.
  4. 23 likes
    yeah, sorry. I lurk around here from time to time, but in general im much more active on reddit and fb. I just received the v11 last night, immediately posted the pic on instagram and then went out for a quick ride before going to bed. This morning took the close up beauty shots so now im ready to start pushing her a little harder. My initial impressions (subject to change) are: The suspension is not as responsive or as smooth as the s18, but still solid. No wiggle and the handling is easy and tight. Motor control feels smooth and reliable (but i havent really pushed it). Both are significantly smoother to ride on bumpy streets than any wheel without suspension. Todays mission: find a way to put some padding on this wheel so i can push her harder. They didnt make this easy for me.
  5. 22 likes
    This was too funny not to share... I recently ordered an EyeRide HUD to use with Google Maps and Komoot, mainly for navigation, to see if it's a better and more user-friendly (and cool!) alternative to strapping an old phone to my wrist...and because it looks like the perfect futuristic addition for an EUC-rider I joined the manufactuer's Facebook group and came across a post where someone was asking what other customers were riding. Needless to say, they're all bikers, so the long string of photo-replies contained everything from Kawasaki Ninjas to Ducati Monsters, Honda Rebels, VMAX's, Harleys, etc. I couldn't help myself... A comment quickly ensued asking me what exactly this contraption of mine was, so I briefly explained and posted a video of Chooch speeding down a mountain road on his MSX. The reply was absolutely priceless: "oookkkay. Now I think I know what car guys think about motorcyclists"
  6. 17 likes
    I'm still waiting on the wheels to arrive. I like to ride the wheel around for a week or two to get a good feel for many different use cases before i even start filming and editing so... probably at the end of the month at the earliest.
  7. 17 likes
    Want to disable Bluetooth is connected and disconnected voice notification? Bluetooth music will still work as usual however now without the annoying connection/disconnection sounds! Follow these instructions: https://bit.ly/3bbPQ8c 16X 18L 18XL ONLY Bluetooth music must be switched on in app. If volume is lower after the process you can adjust the volume back up through various apps= Softtuner, Darknessbot, Older King Song apps. To revert back to original follow these instructions: https://bit.ly/2TrRRXA
  8. 16 likes
    I disagree with that statement 100% I am very new to the Forum and very new to EUC. I have had nothing but very positive experiences with many members on this forum who have guided me in the purchases of all my wheels. They have offered excellent instruction advice and have been very gracious with their compliments regarding my riding achievements. I have had forum members assist me with questions regarding the maintenance of my wheels. I try to give back when I feel I can offer some good advice to other members. I am on several other forums in other sports and by far ,this forum is the most enjoyable of them all. I hope I can meet up with some of the members one day to have a ride, drink a beer and share somethings about our lives. I like this place
  9. 15 likes
    Backstory: It was Sunday (memorial day long weekend). My friend has been EUC-curious for a while and wanted to learn, so we planned the learning/teaching session on Sunday. I had a V8 (which he was going to learn on) and I had my Nikola. A mutual friend of ours also tagged along because she wanted to document the learning process. My friends arrived at my place at ~2:00pm. There is an empty parking lot nearby about 10minutes (walking distance) away. We turned on the wheels and walked to the parking lot. Once at the parking lot, I had my friend gear up. He had a helmet and i gave him my extra kneepads and wrist guards (I got two sets of ewheels wrist guards b/c of the 2 wheels i bought). I started teaching him the basics - how the device works, how to figure out the dominant foot, how to properly mount/dismount. Once he got used to all of that I got him going on some drills (push the EUC along with some supporting foot). While he was practicing, I decided to take my Nikola for a spin around the block. I wheel it away from the wall it is leaning against, and tried to mount it. As I mounted, the wheel then suddenly turns off and I almost fall. Our mutual friend laughs at me, saying something along the lines of "aren't you supposed to be good at this?". I was of course more concerned that the wheel suddenly turned off so I started examining it. Pushing on the power button did nothing so that was alarming. 20 or so seconds later, white smoke starts coming out. I tell everyone to back up (I've seen the video of the other Nikola "exploding"). I thought maybe a fuse or a mosfet blew somehow. I did not expect the whole thing to go up in flames. Of course the fire department was involved to put out the fire. I had to give a statement about the make and model... This whole thing is bad... but I think the worst thing that came out of this is that my friend no longer wants to learn. I was unable to share the joy of riding an euc because of this incident. My backpack that I had with me was also lost due to the fire. I had some water bottles in there, but also my V8 charger. I was planning on lending the V8 to my friend so he could practice on his own after our session. I mentioned this to Jason, and he just sent me a replacement one free of charge. Overall, I guess the silver lining is that it all happened outside. Without knowing why the thing just went up in flames, it could've happened while it was inside my apartment. I'm also super grateful that I purchased my wheel through a distributor that puts the safety of his customers above everything else.
  10. 15 likes
    @Marco Domingos I've stayed out of the discussion until now, but man, enough is enough... Here’s my reply (in English, as you requested) to your “why not be a man and tell me in English?” in the Spanish 16X Telegram group (BTW, how old are we? C'mon...): It's a bitch when you get a lemon, we've all been there, but this entire situation is the result of YOUR choices, and yours alone. A two-week loan (like Kuji or Chooch) wasn’t what you wanted (your choice), so you decided to get the wheel but didn’t want to pay the price it costs in Europe so you bought it directly from KS China (not a prototype or a review unit you’re going to give back, but a production model you’re going to keep). In Europe the 16X sells for minimum €2000. You paid $1,040, so you saved more than €1000. You got the wheel at a Chinese price with a Chinese warranty. We all know what that means if you live outside of China… I honestly don’t know what kind of after-sale service you expected, but I wouldn’t expect a Chinese company to come through even for a $20 purchase… In that same situation, I’ll bet you most people would have been coherent and accepted that this was the result of their own choice. You could have taken the easy route and gotten a new board from a local distributor and received it in 24-48h (and the wheel still would have costs you a good €950ish less that the European retail price). Or you could have jumped through the KS hoops (we all know what dealing with EUC manufacturers is like…and if you aspire to be an influencer, you should know how these things work), patiently waited to get the board replaced, and accepted that was your choice—to pay with downtime and “the sweat of your brow” what you didn’t pay for in money (nothing’s free in this world). But to choose the hard way and then make a public spectacle about it on social media? How exactly did you expect Kingsong to react? (especially after publicly sharing private messages from a company rep.). By sending you a free replacement? And all of this to not fork out $35 for an inner shell? Damn, you could have bought 5 extra motherboards and 6 or 7 new inner shells (depending on where you bought them) with the money you saved buying straight from KS China! Why not be happy about that? I guess drama makes for better-selling click-bait videos? 😉 Funny how it wasn’t until they banned you on FB that you turned to this forum, where you only ever show up to complain and/or promote your videos. How did you expect people to react? Here people ask, share and help each other out on a daily basis because they want to, out of a sense of community, not of self-interest/getting more views on their channel. We disagree on a daily basis, we argue, we joke around, and we don’t run off the minute someone disagrees with us. People can see right through your intentions, even if that’s not apparent from your point of view… To further my point, a member of the Spanish EUC community invited you to join the Spanish 16X Telegram group. Not a single “thank you for inviting me”, no introduction, your very first phrase was literally “Hello guys, did you guys saw the video that I put out monday?” (in English). After the conversation went on for a while in English, someone asked me to explain what all this was about (a lot of users don’t speak English and didn’t have a clue what your video was about), so I pretty much stated what I said above (I can’t help it, it’s my opinion), after which you accused me of attacking you in Spanish. When you were told that you were in a Spanish group and the least you could do was use Google Translate so everyone else didn’t have to, you said you didn’t have time for that….I don’t think there’s anything I can add to further clarify what’s pretty self-explanatory… Community means reciprocity. Mutual respect. Not using other people when you need them and not giving anything back. Not whining to one group until they get fed up with you, then moving on to the next. Not declaring “It’s clear I’m not welcome here” and storming off like an angry toddler instead of having a mature discussion… Have you not stopped to wonder why KS doesn’t want to have anything to do with you? Why people have reacted the way they have in this thread? Why you left the Spanish group with your tail between your legs? ? We’ve all been young, but this “the whole world is against me” and “everyone else is wrong except me” is only tolerable until age 16 at the very most… We all agree that EUC manufacturers have a long way to go before they're up to Western standards, but there were a million ways to go about this that would have been more constructive to the community as a whole. Grow up, man, you’re doing the entire EUC community a disservice, including yourself.
  11. 14 likes
    I’m a casual reader and have had a wheel for two years (KS16). My 10 yr old(V8) and 6 yr old(Mten3) have wheels. I research wheels with them all the time and we have no brand loyalty. Instead we buy for purpose as you can see. Each wheel fits us. My oldest and I like the idea of suspension and we are engaging in lively banter between these two new offerings. We have been following this thread and many others of interest. In fact my 10 yr old learned how to ride backwards two weeks ago thanks to tips from this very forum. Thankfully (and probably 40 falls later) I can ride backwards to as of two days ago (the verbal beating from friends drove me to keep going after an ankle/pedal/smash/wound). I’m thankful my kids don’t have huge egos yet, but when they do I’ll explain to them the ouward effect of it like this: “Two people get into an argument. Neither is completely correct and no further current information is clear so instead of agreeing to wait for more information, they start questioning each other’s speculation. They begin to apply intentionality where it may or may not exist. They question the other persons motives, and may question their integrity. This is followed by questioning what the other person’ words mean (the best part, sounds like two 6 yr olds with PHDs arguing), which is followed by hostile Ad hominem comments barely and ever so discreetly basked in a disgusting false sense of trying to legitimately listen to anything the other person says. This devolves into complete offense and sometimes loss of friendship. On forums it’s even better because you are in front of a group of peers and thus no one can back down because they fear being portrayed as weak or the bad guy, and if you mention this they will huff and puff about how wrong you are and go back playing to sticks and stones break my bones.” Here’s the answer; not the easy one but the hard one: just walk away from every ridiculous argument in this thread fueled by ego completely. Completely stop posting in these personal ego arguments about what the exact definitions of words are. I know it’s a forum, I know it’s the internet, but I’d like to think we are professional on this side of the wheel. I’ve been passionate needlessly defending my beliefs, we all have. Just. Stop. Posting. About. It. Very important - if you are about to respond and defend yourself in anyway, please read above again since you completely missed the point. See I’m trying to kill my ego, it’s caused me more grief than happiness in my life and I’ve never gained a piece of bread, a dollar or a good nights sleep from being correct on an Internet forum. My daughter’s next wish is to learn to jump on her V8 and today we discovered Kuji pads. Not sure how we missed that. Thank you guys so much for everything you do and I look forward to lively debate which only goes so far. - Meant sincerely and respectfully from a Family of Unicyclers (we are determined to get Mom involved too) in Pittsburgh, PA (we have never seen another unicycler is person in two years).
  12. 14 likes
    Jumps, jumps jumps
  13. 13 likes
    Painful to watch. All I see is someone who refers to themselves as an 'influencer' badger a manufacturer for a free wheel (which was quite rightfully denied - Chooch or Kuji Madpack aint) but still ended up managing to get a discounted wheel, probably to get him off their back. Wheel turns up with a problem, 'influencer' decides that he wants it sorted, moans about the length of time the item takes to arrive (that's what happens when you are in the UK and buy from China) then goes on to slag off the manufacturer. I'm not surprised he was blocked. Not to prevent him venting his spleen to the general public but more likely just to get rid of his endless rants and demands. The same ranting went on with his previous Z10, which brings me on to it being somewhat comical when he mentioned how he 'fixed' Afeez' Z10 (to try and insinuate that he knows all about euc's) but failed to mention that the method of repair was not only extremely simple but known worldwide, having been posted on forums and YouTube for some time previously. I wanted to like this, I really did. Not only because he is a UK guy but also because he is a fellow rider and enthusiast. All I came away with was a feeling of his self-entitlement and that he would be your best mate when he wants something but your worst if the slightest thing goes wrong. Pay full money for a wheel from a local retailer if you want minimum fuss. It's always been the way with anything. Which is kinda what I think he is trying to say, so why did he not do so? Oh thats right because he was trying to blag it on the cheap, to fund his hugely expensive studio setup Of course I might have taken this all the wrong way. If that's the case, revising the method of presentation might be in order.
  14. 13 likes
    "This is my only job at the moment, I pay my bills making these videos for you" -Kind of sounds like you DO this for the money. Hearing you complain about your petty investments in cameras and tables was as far as I could get. Get real man. You want free euc's to demo, you complain about only for 2 weeks and you somehow expect them to let you borrow one for free for months, so you can check durability? My American brain cant understand your thought process here. At least you have "nothing more to add", so thats good to know. Invest in a real business, and see how much the minor costs of some lights are. Hell, I have lights and cameras too, its a hobby. You only spent $1000 on the euc and most of that is in batteries. How much $$ do you really think kingsong is profiting after all their REAL and recurring business expenses? Trying to get a HUGE break on price, THEN bitching about poor service? Time=money, service=time. I have no opinion on the ks16, but i do know my KS wheels are fine, and my distributor helps us out. I pay his markup for this privilege. Unless I lived in China and near KS themselves, why would i assume getting a deal would also include great overseas service? Reel it in man, shit happens and you arent in a position of power to do much about it. Talk with your wallet, not your 'uber expensive video business idea'. Reminds me of those 'influencers' that want free vacations because they think their opinion helps pay the expenses and bills of all the people involved in the resorts. *They, there, they're, their... Look them up, as improper use doesn't help in credibility either. *fwiw, I post crap videos for my own enjoyment at my own expenses with absolutely NO desire to make a single dollar from it. Even with my abrasive attitude and crazy way of thinking, I havent been attacked for sharing them. Quite the opposite, I was surprised that a few people like my stupidity. I find it odd that I can make low quality bullshit videos with no attempt at good content, yet YOU keep getting attacked? As a 'businessman', perhaps you should look into why you are being received in the manner you claim to be. Maybe KS wasn't exactly thrilled with your approach to this issue, from the beginning? I could be wrong, but my assumptions (like everyone) are based only on what we see. I'm sure the kiddos have no idea what I may be referring to. Hint: wearing hats backwards/crooked and tactics of bold print with exaggerated looks on your face, only destroys your credibility with the age demographic of people that have money and actually control this spinning ball. Your mortgage must not be much, or can I assume you have a few years to go before you get that? If you do get it, then WOW, making videos IS lucrative.
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    I like every bit of my V10f and my KS18L I really look forward to the new V11 and KS18S , and I really can't resonate with all the negative vibes about wheels they even didn't test merely based on specs.. The need for extra speed and even more range or batteries is more a niche market if you ask me, I am quite happy with the speed I get on my wheels so far, but then again I am maybe not the daredevil as many are on here apparently , allthough I paraglide and kitesurf, ski at a decent level the whole of my life For the EUC community I can only wish that we get good products, products that comes with a good warranty , good safety and that governments belief in, so we can see the banns on euc's in countries lifted and been taking more serious by a wider group of people.. that will not work trough a never satisfying group of riders who wants more speed, nope it will come from a majority of happy riders that are sharing there joy of riding an EUC, and to all producers out there, I think they understand this need of conformity and reliability more then some of us, look at inmotion I think it's good they don't try to make the V11 much faster.. if you want to go faster buy a pimped up wheel at go to a track with it.. but don't annoy the bigger group by crashing and getting bigger and bigger injuries so the larger community will perceive EUC riders as irresponsible.. my 50 cent.
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    Just out for a little ride on the mten3 and seen a toy horse 🏇 and thought I might have a little fun ride with it 😁 lol it looked good from behind 😁 Anyway here's the video I captured 😂
  18. 13 likes
    According to EUC World data: 1) for all tours recorded, a typical maximum speed is 32 km/h (32.8 km/h median, 31.8 km/h average). Typical average riding speed is about 17 km/h (17.3 km/h median, 17 km/h average). Average riding speed doesn't include any stops or breaks. Data based on almost 55,000 tours, over a total distance of over 500,000 kilometres. 2) for tours at least 5 km long, a typical maximum speed is 40 km/h (38.9 km/h median, 40.9 km/h average). Typical average riding speed is about 20 km/h (20 km/h median, 20.5 km/h average). Again - average riding speed doesn't include any stops or breaks. Data based on almost 27,000 tours, over a total distance of over 456,000 kilometres. 3) for tours at least 50 km long, a typical maximum speed is 45-50 km/h (43.2 km/h median, 54.2 km/h average). Typical average riding speed is about 22 km/h (20.7 km/h median, 23 km/h average). Again - average riding speed doesn't include any stops or breaks. Data based on over 900 tours, over a total distance of over 67,000 kilometres. As we can see, riders mostly ride with average speed of only about 20 km/h (about 13 mph) and this is quite constant value, regardless of riding distance.
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    Note: The model that caught fire was the first batch of Nikola 100V 1800WH Panasonic NCR21700A. I have never crashed my Nikola nor have I mistreated it in any way. Over the span of 5 months, I've only used it to commute to and from work (~7.5 miles each way). I did have a fast charger from ewheels (the Nikola did not come with a charger), but I have never charged it with > 3A or to 100% (used the 90% setting on the fast charger). Edit: I've charged it to 100% once or twice in the beginning while I was configuring the charger. Shortly after, I read that charging to 100% is not recommended in order to preserve battery life which is when I decided to switch to 90%. All charges besides the initial first couple of charges were done via the 90% setting. AMP-wise I have always only used 3A. Below is official communication from EWheels. Jason asked me to withhold posting on the forum until he had time to communicate with Gotway and develop a plan of action. Many people in the EUC community praise EWheels for genuinely caring about the his customers and the community. I am glad I purchased my wheel through Ewheels and the communication from the email (below) was the evidence I needed that I bought from a good distributor. One minor correction I want to make to the official email is that it didn't catch on fire immediately after turning on. I walked it to a parking lot near my place (so it was already on). When I got on it, it immediately shutoff and threw me off the wheel. It was only then after mysteriously powering off did the wheel go into thermal runaway and the wheel caught on fire. Anyways, below is the official communication. I am posting to raise awareness for those that might not have purchased through a distributor. Once again my model was the PANASONIC NCR21700A cells.
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    This isn't the first time I have seen a seagull fly in, take a shit and then leave. A post with a summary would have been more helpful. Just do it... write a summary. It's not too late. If the message is to buy from a reputable seller then that is it's own message and can be written and discussed. 8471 km on my 16X... I crashed it today though. Bent pedal hanger. I better ask for a refund. So.. my left pedal hanger is bent. If I brake heavily or force the wheel forward while holding on to a fence the motor fails. I was riding ~45 kmh after the accident... got home.. screwed the wheel back together nice and tight. Charged it up a bit. Rode a bit... heard some grinding (heard it on the way home as well). Pedals shifted when I went up an incline. Tried to make it happen again... it happened again. Riding down a decline... I tried to brake hard and almost fell on my ass. Grabbed a fence... tried to over lean forward and backward. The motor can't keep me level if I use force. Rode carefully home... took everything apart, discover that the left pedal hanger is bent. Sucks to be me. That is 8400+km of off-road, skate parks, hills, dropping the wheel maybe 20 times, smacked it around at low PS denting the rim in a few places, but a medium speed crash bent the pedal hanger / axle. Maybe a new motor will do the job. I really, really love this wheel. Also.. I am okay. Scraped elbow and knee, pain in my left foot. I can always get another foot... But my wheeeeeeeel...
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    Isn’t this an example of cancel culture? Sorry for the bad experience. Unfortunately I’ve seen a similar story here way too many times. It’s sad that we don’t have any western manufacturers showing examples. But if we start to boycott a brand every time they do something against western consumer thinking we would soon have no choice for new wheels. It’s just three of them in the game seriously and all of them have received similar attacks here. There’s plenty of examples of a rider having a bad experience and then they keep shouting about it every time the wheel is mentioned. I think the only remedy for now is to pay a fair price to cover a warranty and buy from a respected dealer. If you want to save money initially, you take a risk and should accept it. Luckily I feel like quality and service have been getting better lately. I’m not going to skip Kingsong if they make the best option for my next wheel.
  23. 12 likes
    The screaming capital letters, “watch this” like it concerns everyone, attacking the company as a whole.. Fairly abusive attention grab for your 16X rant.. edit: You dont seem to understand the backlash here: Your title is pure clickbait, wasting (monetising) our time for your interest. The few of us who cares about a 16X rant could have watched your video if it had a normal and descriptive title. In stead you try to steal everyones attention / time. As it is you are spamming us.
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    My damage report after my 35 mph cutout. Long story short, I didn't realize how low my battery was and cutout. Suffered no road rash and broke my collar bone. My gear saved my life.
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    Don't worry! New models are available all the time. It's often the case that they are more appealing than the one you already have. If you're lucky, you might be able to pick one up for the price of a nice dinner and a bottle of good wine. Of course, you really need to take them for ride before making your final selection (make sure you wear protection). Innovative EUCs, on the other hand, only come out rarely.
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    Seems like this guy only posts when he's trying to promote/sell his youtube channel
  28. 11 likes
    So...how to go about explaining this.... @theotherjoelharris user on Instagram (don't know if he's on this forum) had the brilliant caption, below one of his photos, of "The Electric Pizza Cutter Posse" And...well, I just couldn't help myself.... @Rehab1 You've been very quiet lately and I need your seal of approval!
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    Bloody hell this wheel looks powerfull also the suspension coming down stairs 👍👍👍👍 I like the V11
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    ...and that's what I'm developong now for next release AVAS sound packs that can be installed with just a click. Additionally, there will be online library on EUC World website so you can install any pack just by clicking on a link
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    Maybe because there are people who see it as a piece of sports equipment and want to have fun and thrills with it. Sorry, but at 25 - 35km/h it would only be just a cool means of transport for me. Of course it is still fun, but I would not get a kick out of it. I don't ride EUC to get cheap to work or shopping, or to get around somehow.
  33. 11 likes
    Drove my Gotway Tesla into a lake today, just thought I'd share this information lol
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    I've had this Bell Super Air R for a few weeks now. I love everything about. Just added some wheel branding to give it a little EUC character
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    Hello guys. I have been working on a Star Wars sound (podracer, tie fighter...) with sounds extracted from this video ---> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=voLXsWkO2jM&feature=youtu.be (@RoadRunner @mike_bike_kite I think this interests you) I am very happy with the result. I share link of AVAS files and a little "promotional video" https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Qo1RA6lbgJf67Sx1sLMt0AozqY0vvbHG/view
  36. 11 likes
    I’ve helped push this to my engineers. It’s on our plan, please show your support by clicking the Bluetooth link as it proves how many users are interested in getting rid of these sounds.
  37. 11 likes
    Finally it is ready to share, result of two weeks work printable model of S18 with working suspension. More information on Youtube_link
  38. 11 likes
    He's 178cm and about 70kg.
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    Hey guys, quick intro - Hi, my name is Ken, and I live in northern Illinois. I started on a refurb NB1E+ in March that I picked up for $300 on eBay, and after 130 miles, I upgraded to the KS 16X on April 8th. I bought it from a shop in Vancouver WA called Rev Rides. More about them in a bit. The first time I got on the 16X I thought I made a huge mistake. It was just an unwieldy beast that didn't listen at all. I literally had to learn how to ride all over again. Where I could ride the Ninebot, I found that I had to drive the 16X. Initially there had to really be intent behind what I wanted to do on it. Additionally, it came with a defective tire that had a lump in it. The guys at Rev Rides immediately sent a replacement, and as soon as I mounted it, I fell in love. It's become an intuitive extension of me. Driving takes zero effort. Acceleration is exhilarating and smooth. Cruising is a dream. Carving is as easy as breathing. I currently have 1490 miles on it (~2400 km) and I couldn't be happier. This thing has taken everything I've thrown at it, and it begs for more. I took it to Chicago a couple weeks ago, and about an hour in, it got run over by a bus. Long story short, the bus rolled over it, there was a lot of crunching, and the only victim was the handle. I rode away on it like nothing happened. I've since replaced the handle, and you'd never believe it got hit by a bus from looking at it. Every mile on this wheel has brought a smile to my face, and I'm looking forward to many more. It's built like a tank and it demands the attention of anyone passing by, either on foot or driving. I have had zero issues. It shipped with 1.06, which I upgraded to 1.07. I ran most of those miles on 1.07. I downgraded to 1.05 to see what all the buzz was about, but it didn't feel as polished. I've since upgraded to 2.02, and wow. I feel like this is the further polished, and much matured firmware version for the 16X. For me, this is a perfect wheel with amazing characteristics that I initially had to coax from it, but that now just feel natural. I don't have any bad things to say about the 16X. I feel confident and safe riding this wheel at its limits, and riding slowly through a crowded bike path or city sidewalk. It's convenient and powerful, fast and nimble. It's also easily serviceable. I've changed the tire and handle assembly without issue. The only bad thing about the 16X is the terrible stock Kingsong app, but there are enough alternative wheel management apps to make this a non issue. tl;dr - The 16X rocks
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    Here are my current thoughts on the minimal level of safety gear that should be worn all the time
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    I've been thinking about this, too. We haven't seen any pictures of that cable. I'm sure they've tested it a lot, but probably we are going to be the beta testers for its durability. I'm once again putting myself as a first batch tester. I don't anymore. My 18XL seems robust and I'm happy with it. But yesterday I helped in tire change for a 16X and it's not great. Many screws were rusty and got broken when opened. One needed to be drilled out. The pedal hanger screws are soft as hell and almost destroyed at the assembly. Full of dust and water gets in. One crash has broken many many parts on the inner shell. It needed to be taped to hold together after one tire change. I also helped with a tire change for a V10F recently and it was much nicer inside, including screw quality and weatherproofing. It was a joy to open compared to even my 18XL. I have more trust in V11 quality.
  43. 10 likes
    I'm not sure if you're open to suggestions for your video work but they do come across as a little attention seeking. EUC's are a very new mode of travel and people want unbiased realistic views of the available products. I know you're young but it comes across as perhaps a little childish when every title is full of big X's marked in red, how every video looks as if it has some grand surprise that only you have found. There's also that permanent look of stunned amazement on your face that can get tiring. I actually couldn't believe you took your wheel apart to try and fix what appeared to be just a calibration issue. I remember thinking that your wheel was never going to last long. On the positive side I do think your videos are very well produced and, with time, may well become quite informative but you need to aim more at unbiased information. Obviously your video's aren't aimed at old farts like me but I still thought you might want some feedback/advice.
  44. 10 likes
    any wheel can be a total dud, all wheels are subject to bad QC.. all Chinese manufacturers have abysmal warranties and customer service.. this shouldn't be news to anyone here.. having owned three KS16S, four KS18XLs, and a KS14S and racking up around 30k km on KS wheels, I have never once had a single issue.. however the same can be said for me and gotway or inmotion wheels, some people just have bad luck or get a lemon.. the 16X had a poor launch as did many gotway wheels, as did the v10.. but it has since been mostly rectified and the vast majority of 16X owners are perfectly happy with their purchase.. sorry to hear about your personal experience but it does not reflect KS products as a whole, I just recently bought the most expensive wheel sold the monster v3 2400.. when I got it, it did not charge properly, one of the battery packs had bad cells, gotway wouldn't have done shit for me but luckily I bought from a great dealer and it was promptly replaced with a new unit.. shit happens
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    I did not watch the video and therefore I have no idea if the list of defects in the video contains things that are not already known here. I just find it really annoying that you only hear from some people in the forum when they have something to complain about and want to bash the manufacturer. But maybe I am completely wrong and it is just disgusting click-bait.
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    For future reference, below are my findings from teardown of a Gotway BMS. DISCLAIMER: This BMS was a Gotway design from 2015, originally sold in the MSuper V2. Battery Management Systems from other models and manufacturers vary widely. What can it do? Disconnect the charger ("Charge stop") ... if any cell exceeds 4.25V ("overvoltage protection") ... or if any cell is between 2.0 and 2.80V ("undervoltage protection") Charge Stop can be linked to additional packs, so that a cell problem in one pack can trigger all parallel packs to Charge Stop. Overvoltage protection is a 'latching' behavior-- it does not reset until the charge input voltage is removed. Top-balancing Balance resistors will be connected to any cell that exceeds 4.20V. (Normally this occurs at the very end of a charging event, when the pack is nearly full.) What are its limitations? No overcurrent (short-circuit) protection. Overcurrent in the Charger input (e.g.: short at the charge port) will pass through the Charge Stop FET (rated 200 A pulsed) until some part of the circuit is burned open. Typically the 'weak spot' seems to be the PCB traces between the charging leads and the Charge Stop FET. Overcurrent in the pack output is not borne by the BMS PCB at all- the high current will flow through the leads and cell straps. Bolted shorts will flow huge amounts of current, until the cells themselves become destroyed. No thermal protection. No thermostatic fuses nor temperature sensors are present. Vulnerable to corrosion. Corrosion is likely to cause open-circuits in the connections between the pack and the BMS. If this occurs, Balancing and Charge Stop are defeated. The pack may still charge and discharge normally, but cell imbalance will become progressively worse. Unmonitored, over-voltage cells may cause heating and fires during charging. Unmonitored, under-voltage cells may cause heating and fires during use. How does it work? For each cell, a HY2213-BB3A ASIC is used to connect the balance resistance. For each cell, a HY2113-KB5B ASIC is used to detect over- and under-voltage, and drives the Charge Stop trigger signal. (This device can also monitor current, but that function is not used in the Gotway BMS.) Charge Stop is realized by a FQP50N06 FET, which disconnects the negative side of the charger from the pack. (This device has no built-in overload protection.) How are the packs connected? (The packs inspected were from the Gotway MSuper V2 EUC, an 850wh 5p configuration using 3 packs: 16s1p, 16s2p, 16s2p.) According to my diagram below, only one pack is connected to the charger, and therefore Charge Stop is performed at this 'master' pack only. The two 'slave' packs can trigger Charge Stop using the trigger link connection. If any pack drives a positive voltage across these "HV" and "LV" Trigger Link terminals, all packs will disconnect their Charger input. The trigger link wires are redundant- two "HV" and two "LV" leads are used between each pack, but they are electrically the same circuit. This provides fault-tolerance to open-circuit conditions in the wiring. If the trigger link was broken or not connected, Charge Stop would not be possible, and therefore overvoltage and undervoltage protection will be defeated. Discussion Fast-charging: Charging Input wires could be added to the two 'Slave' packs as well, in order to facilitate fast-charging with use of multiple charging connectors. 1C charging for this 5p configuration is about 13 amps, which exceeds the safe ratings of the single GX16 charging connector, but could be achieved easily by 3 charging connectors in parallel. Aggressive fast-charging at 1C or above is not recommended for these packs, because of the lack of thermal monitoring of cells. Under-voltage: In my tests, I was unable to trigger Charge Stop for the cell undervoltage condition. I had some cell groups disconnected from the BMS, and manually applied various voltages to the BMS cell monitor leads using a potentiometer and 9V battery. I did observe the "overdischarge" output of the HY2113 being driven when the voltage falls below 2.8V, but it did not propagate to the Charge Stop FET. I suspect this irregularity was due to the condition of the damaged and corroded pack and BMS that I was testing; I chose not to abuse a healthy pack to create a cell-undervoltage condition. Backstory: A friend had this old MSV2 that would run but would not charge. He reported a previous instance of a short-circuit and arcing when probing the charging port. I opened the packs and discovered the two 'slave' packs were healthy, but the 'master' pack (with charging input) was badly corroded, with entire balance leads rotted away. Cells were badly imbalanced (some 0V). And the copper trace between the charger input and the Charge Stop FET had burned and blown open. Since the other two 'slave' packs were in pristine condition and very well balanced, I was able to salvage the wheel by simply discarding the damaged pack, and moving the charging connector leads to a remaining pack. After this repair, I was able to simulate Charge Stop events by manually applying a voltage between the Trigger Link HV&LV using 9V batteries, and observed charging current being interrupted accordingly. Cheers
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    The specific parts are mainly regarding Kingsong (KS) and Gotway (GW (13)). Maybe Inmotion/Rockwheel BMS work quite similar? Ninebot BMS (S1/2, Z6/8/10) are different - they use smart BMS! What is (more or less) known:(6) Passive Cell Balancing: Works with comparators that switch with a Mosfet a bleeding resistor in parallel to individual (paralleled) cell (groups). (1) In this specific example they get activated above 4.2+/-0.025V and deactivated below 4.19+/-0.035V. These bleeding resistors stay active after charging for cells with voltages above the threshold - so they get discharged again to 4.19+/-0.035V (or whichever comparator is used in the specific wheels BMS) Whilst charging (7) balancing happens by this paralleling of a bleeding resistor to each cell groups that exceeds this threshold voltage. So the cell gets less charging current and charges slower as the other cells with voltages below this threshold. This threshold (4.2V) can be reached about the transition of the constant current charge (stage 1) to saturation charge (stage 2, constant voltage charge). Charging to ~80% by cutting off the charger once about max voltage is reached (only using more or less the constant current stage) prevents any balancing! Cell Overvoltage Protection: This works with comparators too to monitor the individual (paralleled) cell (groups). If any of the comparators threshold is exceeded a mosfet cuts the charging input. If the wheel has more than one battery pack they are syncronized, so that all packs cut off charging simulatanously.(2) The overvoltage protection threshold voltage lies somewhere in the 4.2xV region.(5) Charger: The commonly used chargers are ""normal" AC/DC converters with current limiting". So they provide some constant current for the first charging stage (6) until the max voltage is reached (saturation charge) (6). Despite Li Ion cells should never be trickle charged, from reports here i strongly suspect that they do not stop charging once the current drops below about 3% rated current as recommended (6, li ion cells datasheets)! So timer switches are often used to overcome this. Chargers are normally no precission instruments and can be not working according to their assumed specifications! So they could deliver to low voltage (no balancing happening, battery not fully charged) or have a too low shut off current threshold. Many Chargers have adjustment possibilities for voltage, current and shut off current threshold(8,9). KS only: The charge input is connected via the mainboard to the battery packs. So charge current could be/is monitored there (3). The battery outputs are connected individually to the mainboard (each has their own fuse, etc) and paralleled there.(4) The BMS has some output protection. This is only for short circuit/overcurrent protection. GW only: (as for KS wheels prior to S series?) The charge plug is directly connected to the batteries charge input, the battery output(s in parallel) directly connected to the motherboard. There is no firmware interference (possible). The GW BMS have no kind of output protection. Cell undervoltage protection: There is nothing like a individual cell undervoltage protection in any of these BMS! This used to be in the beginning and led to nasty faceplants by BMS cut offs. So riders are safe, but with bad consequences for li ion health/safety... Individual cell voltage montoring: Is not done by neither BMS. (just ninebot). KS18(X)L BMS have a connector in one corner of the PCB so one can access all individual cell voltages there with "just" a little cut in the shrink wrap. Reported battery pack voltage: The wheels measure internally the battery voltage and report them to the app. Do not expect this value to be overly accurate! Deviations of 1,5V are not uncommon. Do not trust the charge % showing 100%! 100% cover a wide range - monitoring the reported battery voltage gives a much better picture! Charge % numbers are just calculated in FW from the battery voltage with some 4.1xV beeing 100% and 3.3V (GW) and 3.0V(KS) or 3.15V (KS) beeing 0%. Consequences: Cell Balancing: is the key to a healthy, performant and long living battery pack! Li Ion batteries are especially "stressed" with high and with low voltages. Any (longer) charge to over 4.2xV or discharge below 2.5V prematurely ages/destroys Li Ion cells. As all the used cell (groups) in a battery pack cannot be absolute identical they will differ more and more with each charge and discharge. With some bad luck mismatched cells were assembled or cell (groups) were from the beginning at different charge states (voltages). Whilst the saturation charge (6) this will be balanced out (a bit/more or less). The worst possible extremes for an 20s/84V pack: 19 cell (groups) at ~4.2xV and one cell at 84V-4.2xV*19 ~ 2.7V!! In such a case charging is prematurely stopped by the BMS (cell overvoltage cutoff). Although the battery pack shows full voltage directly after charging the voltage will drop (by the activated balancing resistors) to about 4.19V*19+2.7V ~ 82.3V. 1 cell will reach the 4.2xV overvoltage threshold and the other 19 stay about (84V-4.2x)/19~4.19V. This does not sound grave, but if this one cell (group) has less capacity and continously reaches low voltages and by charging reaches the upper etremes it will age prematurely and loose even more capacity. By this it will get to much lower voltages as the others. Until it goes below safe voltages and gets destroyed. How to note battery pack problems: As long as the battery pack charges fully nothing really is to be noted or can be diagnosed without knowing the individual cell voltages! - Premature charge cut offs by the BMS are a first sign. - Wheel reports less voltage after a full charge as used from prior full charges. Note that there will always be a difference between maximum charging voltage to battery output voltage as there is some voltage drop at the input protection circuitry of the BMS (~some tenth of volts). If this is just a low difference one can try to make some repeated full charges with just slightly discharging the battery inbetween (to about 80%?). So one has repeated stages with balancing - best battery aging versus balancing efficiency! Never do this charging unattended! Best in some "fireproof" enviroment! - less range/performance What to check once something seems "strange": - Measure the charger output voltage! (10)(11) - Check the wheels reported battery voltage. If one ever happens to have his wheel open this is a good time to check this value.(10)(11) - If the wheel has two or more packs in parallel chances are high that only one of them is degraded/bad. So they should be checked individually and if so replacing just this bad pack is sufficient and recommendable. The degraded/bad pack will hinder the good packs from beeing balanced! Easiest check is to charge them individually and each pack reaching full voltage is (hopefully) ok, the one not reaching the full voltage is the "bad" one.(12) - The bad battery pack most probably has only one or two bad cell groups - so they could be replaced. In the forum are some reports of doing this, but this work needs experience and is absolutely not hazard free! DISCLAIMER: No specific BMS was fully analyzed/reverse engeenered (to my knowledge) - there are some points just "best knowledge" but still speculation. Any specific wheel from any manufacturer could have some different BMS used inbetween and especially in any future version/revision. Resellers could use different battery packs. I'm no long time, educated battery expert - just gathered thoughts from discussions here, different internet links, batteryuniversity.com combined with (long time ago specialised) electronics school education. This is the first draft - expect everything to change. Corrections, additions and restructurings (hopefully) come continously. Any input is welcome - especially knowledge and experiences so faults/speculations/important missed topics/etc can be corrected and/or improved! (1) Schematics: https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/2102-gotway-charging-questions/?do=findComment&comment=23539 (2) Since the packs are in parallel a single pack cutting off would be charged by the parelleled output connections. This BMS syncronization wires were introduced for KS with the S series? (3) KS16X for example continously beeps (with some FW's?) if charging current is too high. (4) Did not hear of ony special "uses" by this like using the packs seperately as it is done/suspected for ninebot wheels. Could be checked by some mainboard analysis if the paralleling is "hard-wired" on the PCB. (5) Have not seen any details reported which comparators are used in special and so don't know exact thresholds. Many on aliexpress seen BMS have a threshold of 4.28V specified. (6) Anything can change with each new batch delivered! Seldomly BMS PCBs are analyzed and/or checked for changes. (7) https://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_lithium_ion_batteries (8) https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/2247-decrease-charging-time-5a-high-current-charger-mod/?do=findComment&comment=25662 (9) Be cautious opening electric devices operating at mains voltages! Even disconnected from mains they can still contain life threadening high voltages! (10) Regard the digital multimeter accuracy! Only because some DMM show one or two digits after the decimal points this does not mean that they have any value! Even the first digit before the decimal point can be easily off: https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/13629-multimeter-accuracy-needed-for-chargerbattery-measurements/?tab=comments#comment-233250 (11) Take care to not short anything. Be sure the multimeter is _not_ in current measure mode - any short circuit of the battery can melt the probe tips immedeately and send molten metal drops all around! Use googles to protect the eyes! (12) Take care that the packs have good as the same voltage once they are reconnected again! Reconnect without hesitation. The longer it takes to get the connectors fitted the longer there will be sparks until the connectors are to be replaced... Anti spark plugs are available. (13) Detailed 2015 GW MSuper V2 BMS teardown https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/18374-how-bms-works-gotway-pack-teardown/
  48. 10 likes
    We can finally expect to hear some first hand feedback from Kuji in the next week or two!
  49. 10 likes
  50. 10 likes
    I never thought I'd make a video featuring ballet heels and electric unicycles, but here we are.
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