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About litewave

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    Z10, NB1E+++

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  1. Don't panic; it should be fine. This happened to me on my first E+ a couple times during the first 1-200km, as well as a strange grinding noise that occurred on two occasions. It did not happen again in eight thousand kilometers, and the wheel has been rock-solid and reliable.
  2. Yes, there are several in the forum. Here are some of the best: Hotswap battery mod @SuperSport@litewave Internal battery mod @smallexis@enaon Speed hack @MRN76 + others Tire @litewave + others Control board cooling pipe @enaon Watch @enaon ... and many others such as side covers, shell replacements, lights, trolley handles, etc.
  3. How to build a safe and better lithium battery WITHOUT a BMS Do you NEED a BMS for DIY Li-ion Batteries? Why not use a balance charger like the one below? It's well regarded in the drone community. You'll have to solder charging wires to the cells, but this is not hard to do if you're careful.
  4. Glad that @manieuc replied quickly. I haven't been checking the forum recently as I am recovering from an injury. Needless to say, be careful not to overtighten them as they can reduce circulation and cause foot strain. Otherwise, you can wear them all day (at work, for example) comfortably. Just air them out nightly and wash every 3-4 years.
  5. Speed is relative. The E+ can be hacked to go up to 20mph, which is fast enough for trails and sidewalks. I don't ride among traffic very often, which is more risk than benefit. If I lived in NYC or some parts of Europe then I would reconsider. If in a hurry to get from point A to point B, I drive an automobile with a 5-star crash rating that gets 55mpg.
  6. I have been swapping batteries on my Ninebot E+ for three years. I have carried as many as five spare packs with me on long trips of up to 50 miles. I typically carry 1-2 spares at all times. It takes less 1 minute to swap the battery, and then I am on my way again. The Ninebot One is the only wheel that can be easily modded to do this. Of course this is an older, slower wheel with a small battery (320-340wh), but it still has its uses. I think that the S18 would be awesome if the battery compartment were easily accessible and could be modded in a similar way. Personally I would not w
  7. At full charge you will experience speed tiltback between 13.5-15mph. Battery tiltback begins when charge level drops below 20%. There is also overheat tiltback which can occur when the control board sensor temps exceed 65deg C (iirc).
  8. The E+ can overheat when temps are near 90deg, which could be a factor in Georgia. If it happens again, check the control board temperature in the app. Also, you may try recalibrating the wheel.
  9. Speedyfeet still sells control boards (A1/S2 and P) but has been out of the E+ models for a while. Reading your posts, I seriously doubt you need a new one, however. You just need to find a charger to charge your battery. You might consider creating a new topic and reach out to the community to find one. It's not safe to ride at such a low charge, and not good for the battery.
  10. The NB app shows the drive voltage. The Charge Doctor, if you can find one, shows voltage when connected to the charger. Pry/pop off the light ring gently to access and remove the two screws that secure the battery cover so you can inspect the battery pack. The NB1E+ goes into limp mode below 20%.
  11. Here is my experience with the E+ (two active wheels, one spare) and numerous battery packs over four years and nearly 10,000km: 5 Ninebot E+ 320wh battery packs with a total over 9,000km -> zero cut-outs (two purchased through Bangood from sellers in China, three came with the wheels) 2 Ninebot P 340wh battery packs with approx. 500km total -> three cut-outs (both purchased from Speedyfeet.co.uk two years ago). I think @smallexis original internal battery mod which @enaon has replicated with @MRN76 firmware upgrade is the way to go.
  12. The original E+ battery is very robust: I have one that is over four years old with more than 5,000 miles on it, and I still get 10-12 miles per charge. I personally wouldn't buy a new charger, however. I agree with @Chriull - just charge the battery from another source that can supply 2-4 amps between 55-64v. There are two connectors on the battery: disconnect both and carefully plug a hacked connector into the small wires (black and yellow - self-explanatory). You can check out this post and video to have a closer look at the battery compartment. To get to the battery you will need to p
  13. Sweet! I have the same helmet as you and think there is a difference in QC between the TSG Pass (fiberglass, I believe) and TSG Pass Pro (carbon fiber), which TSG stopped producing a year ago. I have faceplanted twice on hard pavement with mine and didn't feel anything above the shoulders, despite direct impacts to the shield and chin. I was concerned when I first wore the helmet because it is so snug and close to the face, but I trust this helmet and expect it to last many years. I agree that it is near silent with the faceshield closed completely, compared to an open h
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