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About litewave

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  1. I have been riding my 16" E+ with a knobby tire in winter until the accumulated snow becomes too deep to ride in (more than 2"). The biggest issue is that sidewalks become impassible due to snowplows pushing snow onto them at intersections and driveways. I tried to install the smallest screw-in studs I could find (Length:8.5mm Diameter:6mm) but all the 16" tires I have found cannot accommodate the screw-in studs without piercing the tire belt. Also the tread 'knobs' on my tire aren't wide enough to hold the screw-in studs securely. I considered using a tire liner with screws but was concerned that the screws would scrape and possibly jam inside the wheel housing due to low clearance. I also tried to make pockets for traditional studs but gave up on the idea as requiring too much effort. I have yet to find a 16" pocketed tire that would fit, and seriously doubt any exist at 14" diameter. There are at least two riders on the forum who have successfully added studs to Gotway 18" wheels: @EUC Extreme used screw-ins, the other rider fabricated a custom drill bit from a nail to create pockets.
  2. Groooovy Nice makeover for the Dark Lord!
  3. Darn, I'm not supposed to charge them all night, overnight, in the snow???!! Go figure!
  4. I take the bubble wrap off when it warms up. I think the temp reported by the NB app is from the sensor on the control board.
  5. Not sure how you measure your battery temp, but after just 3-4 miles at 10-20F, my 320wh batteries get only 6 miles and are close to freezing on the outside. I wrapped them in USPS bubble-wrap envelopes last winter which really helped.
  6. I bought the same Schwinn tyre for ~$8.00 on Amazon nearly threee years ago but never mounted it due to handling concerns. Thanks for confirming my suspicions. If you are looking for off-road 16" tyres take a look at BMX Guru. They have several Kenda's, and I have been using a white one for my winter/ off-road wheel for over a year and it has been great. I personally think the 2.125" tyre works best. Plus, they have black Kendas, but also red, white, and purple, as well as golden and pink! This brings a whole new level to pimp my wheel! Prices are very good and shipping very reasonable.
  7. You the man, Dan. It seems to me that deflecting the force vector away from traveling directly through/up the humerus would be the best approach. In other words, make the elbow pads slippery to skid off the impact surface in addition to dispersing as much force as possible. So, if I had your awesome medical-engineering knowledge, skills and tools, I would fabricate a 4 or 5-layer design as follows: 1. fashion the elbow cup and forearm extension out of the most slippery hard plastic compound possible, like polished nylon or HDPE or some other superfluid-like hard shell material; 2. next, insert a loose high-absorption middle layer like 3DO that floats inside the plastic (like a helmet MIPS liner) approx. 1/4-3/8" thick; 3. then add an inner layer of thin, replaceable bubble wrap made out of thicker, more durable plastic (3+mil); 4. and then add an inside loose liner made out of a super slippery nylon mesh fabric to absorb moisture and 5. as an option, cover the hard plastic with an outer, replaceable super-slippery durable nylon or other fabric. The inner bubble wrap could be replaced after a crash or at regular intervals as part of regular maintenance due to wear-and-tear. The outer plastic shield would be covered with a floating super slippery fabric material that could increase the deflection at extra cost. This solution could be sold: a. as custom high-end elbow pads; b. as part of samurai-warrior body armor (similar to the Fox armor you are already wearing); or c. integrated into a custom snug-fitting EUC-motorcycle jacket with 3DO shoulder pads (like my Pilot Direct). Combined with a separate or integrated set of high-impact-absorbing wrap-around shoulder-pads made of 3DO, I think this would be the next evolution in practical EUC rider safety gear. If someone were to start small and sell these to the community like @EUC GUY, @Duf, or several others have done with custom products at an affordable cost, it could offset R&D while serving the greater good. Add a sexy logo like IMD (IRONMAN DAN DESIGN) on the outside and you'll have a great brand that could expand into Motocross, skate-long-boarding, skiing, snowmobiling, etc. I think this approach could be embraced and proven by the EUC community (crazy pioneers that we are), and perhaps later purchased or licensed for distribution by a larger company such as Pilot, Fox, Demon, TSG, et al. Just cut me a bonus check and send me royalties, please. Also, please send @Hunka Hunka Burning Love a (somewhat smaller) percentage for his inspiration
  8. Glad to read that you are making progress. Definitely a new approach to learning! Assuming you weigh 90kg or less, I would suggest you reduce your tyre pressure to 38-45lbs as that will improve your sense of lateral stability while learning. Once you have mastered the basics, you can increase pressure to 50-55lbs for better performance.
  9. I made this post (after 5,000 km trouble-free on E+ batteries) but before I experienced two battery cut-out faceplants later last year - both on new Ninebot "P" batteries I purchased from Speedyfeet. I later discovered posts in the forum about P batteries being prone to cut-outs. Fortunately, no cut-outs so far on the E+ batteries I own (fingers crossed) after 8,000km. I was wrong and a little harsh in my post above, and was probably overreacting to some (wrongheaded) Ninebot bashing elsewhere on the forum.
  10. Thank you for sharing this despite your serious injuries and pain. I am very sorry to hear about your accident. I hope you recover quickly so you can ride again soon. I don't want to sound callous or insensitive, but maybe you and others will find some wisdom and [twisted] humour in the clip below. 'A man's got to know his [wheel's] limitations'.
  11. It could depend on the base you fly from, but in general, I think the USAF is very capable of handling unusual payloads, and far easier to deal with than commercial aviation regulations.
  12. I think the Batman model is collectable, but personally wouldn't buy them unless as a gift for new and/or very young riders. Glad to hear you still appreciate the old Ninebots, though. There are very few of us left, so almost no one pays attention to posts about them anymore. You can always message me directly instead.
  13. Overheating begins at 70deg C (158F) from my experiences. As long as you are mindful of riding hard on hot days, you can monitor the board temps in the NB app. You can listen for the continuous beeping and then take a break to let it cool down. Also, it will do a hard battery tiltback before shutting off. I was dumped twice until I started paying attention Not sure why your E+ only goes 12mph though ....
  14. May I suggest that you rid yourself of your lowly E+ by selling/donating it to a new rider like @AlexEssex so he/she can join our community?
  15. Doesn't the V5F and V5F+ accept the same trolley handle as the V5 but is optional? Also, I think the eWheels comparison charts deserve further explanation: E+ max speed (unmodified) is 14-15mph; sustained cruising is more like 13.5mph with a fully-charged battery, 12.5 at 60% or less. That's fast enough if you're not in hurry and don't want the higher risk of major medical consequences with faster, beefier wheels. Also, there is no way you can achieve a range of 21 miles unless you weigh less than 130lbs and ride 10mph or slower. My real-world experience is 10 miles typically with a fresh young battery, 12-13 miles best case at moderate speed, and 6-8 miles on low air pressure and hard riding. As for torque, I believe the big advantage for the V5F+ is the 14" wheel, not the power rating. Granted, the E+ acceleration is slower than most wheels, but it's not bad if you have low or moderate expectations. If you want a real headlight or taillight, you will need to add your own to any wheel with only a few exceptions. The E+ has 2 screw mounts in the front for an optional trolley (they cost too much and are somewhat hard to find) or accessory bracket (very useful), and one screw mount in the rear. I don't see any such options for the V5/F/+. I use a 7-LED headlamp which is far better than most any built-in solution that I have heard of, and I only attach/ carry it with me when needed. As for taillights, there are a plethora of low-cost bicycle lights you can mount with double-stick tape. As for the pedals, it's not that the E+ pedals are lowriders, it's just that Inmotion pedals traditionally are positioned much higher than others. Weight does not seem to be an issue at 35lbs or less for most people. The E+ is a simple wheel to dismantle, repair, and conduct Frankenstein experiments on if so inclined From videos I have seen, dismantling the Inmotion wheel is more challenging and time-consuming. The E+ is a good wheel if you look at it as the old-school VW Beetle of EUCs (without the oil leaks). It's a great first wheel for new riders and will last as long as you need it to. It's a great, cheap second wheel to keep as a spare for visitors, friends and family, as it can take a lot of abuse. If you are price-sensitive and can't afford to buy a new wheel (auto, house, wife, etc.) every year or three; if you don't want to spend a lot of money up front (or for several years) and can live with the limitations; and if you can find a good used wheel at a great price, the E+ is still a solid, reliable choice.
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