meepmeepmayer

I like these two because they concentrate on how the EUC works and don't tell you what to do too much otherwise. First is "get on with the help of a wall and then just ride, everything else comes later". Second is more exercise and step-by-step focused. Trust your instincts on which method of learning you prefer. Remember: speed stabilizes you. Don't try to ride at walking speeds, it's hard. Just speed up when you go. There's tons of videos learning on Youtube, if watching others helps you. Just search "learning to ride an electric unicycle".

You're back (on the forum)!

Yep! Small but suspension and big battery! Looks like a mixture of the Sherman and ACM What is the tire size? 16x3?

All details here:

Next KS or IM wheel that already has a megathread before release, we will definitely do that! In general, maybe it's not necessary. The Gotway/Veteran side has worked well I think. Or do you think we should do that for all topics about every new wheel?

This can't be stressed enough!

Geometry, weight distribution, and firmware matter. Not motor specs like weight or (mostly meaningless) power rating. To me it sounds like Gotway might make some firmware revisions. I can't see a reason why the EX has to be sluggish per se. The Sherman has a similar battery distribution and nobody complains about it being sluggish. Maybe it just has bad geometry, or the suspension somehow influences that negatively?

If you only have the money in reserve and can wait as long as you want till you buy, then it's another thing. I can say nothing to say against that. You have to do what you have to do, it's wheels!

Sherman now, EX later when it's the 3rd batch or so and whatever they have to fix has been fixed. If I were in your shoes, I'd cancel the EX pre-purchase (after the Ecodrift photos) and just wait while enjoying the Sherman.

Someone did the same with a V8 and a piece of plywood, that's the biggest I know of. There's a video somewhere on Youtube.

Nothing can go wrong if you only wash the tire and pedals like this. All the electronics are up higher, and water can't get to them from the wheel well.

Make sure you know how to brake instead of (slight) panic. Otherwise it's "Oh shit... hmm... what now? I really wish I knew how to stop..." when a sudden obstacle appears, and your shins will pay the price (you'll try to stop the wheel with our leg after you jump off, at least that's happened to me). It will only get better. Though learning is great fun, too.

Marty was spot on

If you don't feel it when riding, then there is no problem. You'd feel it as regular "bumps" that come faster with speed.

40kg Sherman as a first and learner wheel? Impressive!

Looks nice. Definitely EUC-inspired, not only because of the pedals, but also because of the level of "seriousness" of the design vs. toy stuff. Small battery and limited power though.

My favorite quote is right at the start of the second article: "I really do not want to disassemble Begode EX, but it is necessary."

Here's a link:

Pictures and detailed disassembly of the EX. As always from the fantastic guys at @EcoDrift. Pictures: Russian Original - English (Bing Translator) Disassembly (suspension!): Russian Original - English (Bing Translator) Build quality is awful, I think worse than RS. Brittle 3D-printed parts. 1st batch mess. Eww Can't fault Gotway for being innovative, but I wish they would do it less amateurish. There's lots of details about the suspension to be seen! Motor looks awesome, with 40mm wide magnets! Motor plus suspension alone weigh 20kg! (He mentions they got a "HT version of the EX". Is there a HS version? Or does he just call wide magnets HT?) (Can someone explain what the heatsink next to the board is for? Is it connected to the board's backing plate?)

I'm pretty sure it's the exact same motor (minus the different rims).

Yes we did discuss that a lot. But it's not that easy, people want different things. Trying to fix things in hindsight is hard and will probably not work and frustrate people just as much. We are definitely prepared for the next KS or IM wheel though (Gotway and Veteran seem to be fine, there's a natural progression of smaller threads). Then, on release day, the old wheel thread will be locked (if we forget, please remind us of that!!). This way at least the pre-release info and speculation is separate from the thread about the existing wheel, for people who start reading later. That's a clear mistake that happened with the 16X, S18, and V11 threads and shouldn't happen again.

It's complicated. Power isn't the main issue if you want a wheel you cannot easily overlean and crash. Torque is. The faster you go, the less torque is in reserve. No torque left means you crash on the next tiny bump. You don't want to run out of torque. Two basic facts: A given electric motor has a max speed. You have maximum torque at speed zero, and it goes down linearly to zero torque at the max speed. Torque is proportional to current. More current means your zero-speed torque is higher, and that the torque-over-speed curve falls steeper towards zero torque at the the same max speed of your motor. The first means you want to be far below the motor max speed so you have enough torque reserves if a sudden bump etc. comes along. In other words, you want a fast wheel so you're riding far below its speed limit. The second means you need a "big" battery if you want a "strong" wheel that you can't easily overlean at lower speeds (every wheel can be overleaned with no effort at the motor's max speed). "Big" battery here precisely means "a lot of parallel blocks of battery cells", because current grows with how many parallel blocks you have. Now there's another trick in the book to make more "powerful" and faster wheels: increase the voltage. Higher voltage means a higher max speed on the same motor (no loss in low end torque!), and because power = voltage * current, it means an overall more powerful wheel. That's why wheels went from lower voltages (67.2V) to higher voltages (100.8V), to allow for faster wheels that weren't super lethargic at lower speeds (little torque) and accelerated nicely. (Also, when you design a motor, it's a balance between max torque and max speed. You lose one, you gain the other.) I felt like making a quick diagram to make things more confusing (click 4 big) So TLDR: voltage = speed, current = torque, and manufacturers improved these by increasing voltages and battery sizes. So a fast and big battery wheel is what is "required" to have a wheel that isn't easy to overlean. Because you don't want to run out of torque. If we look at actual power instead of torque, the main power draw in riding is wind resistance. And that grows nastily with speed. So you need more power the faster you go. You get less range the faster you go. - Maybe it's helpful to think about it like this: Power matters mostly when you are riding at a constant speed. Torque matters mostly when you are accelerating. This includes a sudden acceleration the wheel has to do when you hit a bump. Your outwards speed may stay the same, but the wheel has to speed up to catch you after the bump. If you run out of torque, that's an overlean (I'm trying not to use the word "overpower" because "power" is in there, but torque is what matters) and you crash. Of course these two (power and torque) aren't separate, but connected in various ways, but this is a reasonable approximation (I hope... I'm no expert, just trying to make sense of these contraptions we ride).

You can look at the capacitors. If one end of one of them is bulged out, it's broken. Then you'd need a new board. In general, be very careful about sudden unexplained behavior changes of any wheel. That should never happen. Also ask your seller about this, they are supposed to know

Maybe Marty gets a ewheels bounty for every wheel that ends up in the LA rivers and requires a replacement

Not a bad choice! It's a bit on the heavier side, but sleek and strong and comfortable.