Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by meepmeepmayer

  1. Keep it positive guys. The wheel will be there, whether in April or later. I'd rather have Inmotion not unnecessarily rush things. And at least IM is trying their best to be communicative, unlike others.
  2. If you just want to know at what % your wheel throttles, and how, percentage is fine. But for the "which one is safer/better" fanboy wars, you need voltages @AtlasPIs this something you could do/would be interested in?
  3. @yanko20 You should be able to edit etc. now. You could always post photos as far as I know.
  4. These are not legally mandated fees, which by definition aren't hidden and you would know about them beforehand. These are the shipping companies (UPS etc.) making fees up and trying to make it sound like they're just collecting customs duties etc. That's why they generically call them "import fees" instead of saying exactly which government-mandated duties they supposedly are (e.g. VAT, ...). They are simply lieing about the price when you pay for shipping, hide extra costs in the fine print, and hope you blame someone else ("the government") (like @MR BRAD above) when they send you an e
  5. Not the first time I've heard of shipping companies making up fees and trying to blame the government. Scummy.
  6. What do you think of the (sharply criticized) braking? Did they improve on that?
  7. Can't speak for the Inmotion V8F, but often pedal dipping in turns can be fixed by a good calibration. Does the V8 offer doing a calibration? If yes, the most important thing is to not have the wheel tilted sideways while calibrating, a sideways tilt seems to throw the sensor off and produce the dipping. The wheel should also be still while calibrating, so just lean it (upright!) against something stable. Worst case... you need a new board (with hopefully no/less dipping). Contact your seller if you can't fix your problem.
  8. Yep, just make it so you can plug the charger directly into the wheel, or plug the charger into the stand and roll the wheel into the stand to charge. Then the stand would be an optional, cheap (all passive, no/few electronics needed) accessory. Needs charge port + the extra stand contacts in the wheel. No idea how complicated it is to disable the charging contacts unless the wheel is in the stand.
  9. I would be very impressed by a technical implementation of wirelessly charging a wheel. But I think it's useless. What is the difference between laying your wheel in exactly the right spot for wireless charging, or just plugging a charger in? What benefit would it bring? How would the wireless charger look? How much would it weigh? If you want waterproofing, just hide a regular charge port behind a really waterproof plug (a screw cap with some gaskets in the middle, instead of the cap being only a rubber flap). - A related idea: a wheel stand with built in charging, vi
  10. Do you have a working prototype? Looks nice, the kind of smaller wheel.
  11. Brilliant! Actual EUC journalism where you contacted the guy! So it's 84V because the parts he wants to use are 100V (less than 100.8V) and he wants a margin. Aren't there equivalent ~120V parts or something? The cells are used for their higher amp rating. Not sure if this is needed due to the big tire diameter, or is a bad decision. You should think 10p is enough amps - 100A continuous with the usual cells.
  12. 20s2p with 3100mAh cells instead of 3500mAh cells like on the 512Wh version. Nobody knows why the manufacturers do the crazy things they are doing. Sometimes not even they themselves. Maybe the cheaper price it allows makes more sense for the mten3. Maybe they got a deal on the cells. Who knows. There is an official app, but it's crap. They seem to have given up on it, it's not even on the Play Store any longer. Avoid. (If interested, you can find it here: http://www.begode.com/app.)
  13. The best thing you can do for safety is buying a powerful, fast wheel with a big battery MSP, RS sound very good. On the lighter side (for an 18 incher), powerful, nice. The RS (high speed/HS or high torque/HT) seems to have more torque than the respective MSP models (HS or HT), which might make it a little more zippy in comparison. V11 is also a great option. Can't beat a suspension for comfort. Sherman if you just want range, range, and more range. It is heavy though. You can also go for "16" inchers like the upcoming V12 (might be worth the wait), or the Nikola or 16X.
  14. @Hunka Hunka Burning Love got ~20km on his 1020Wh Tesla going full speed (~50kph), where at ~30kph usually that battery size is good for ~50 km. So 40% of the "slow" speed range by going 66%/20kph faster! I used to get 60-65km on my ACM when I had the 30kph speed beeps. Upping to 35kph speed beeps and going slightly faster made it more like a 50-55km wheel. Speed eats battery like crazy. Wind resistance grows fast with speed, and that is the problem.
  15. It may very well be that @houseofjob digs out this topic in a year or two and tells us all a big "Told you so!". For now I'll put my rose colored classes on and wait for the prototype. Soon...
  16. I don't think this is entirely comparable to the examples you posted (but great work listing them!). MAX/Sherpa were always just custom builds with existing parts, and never promised to be anything else. Pulse Glider was always an obvious scam/delusional guy, making empty promises. UniWheel had shitty specs, and the company/stuff going on behind the scenes always seemed fishy. I don't think their efforts were about selling a EUC. More like fleecing gullible investors or something. I don't think it is a coincidence they failed to sell the thing anywhere. Had it been available on
  17. 100% agreed. Right now it seems like "in theory, everything should work" level of progress. I'm hoping for the best. Maybe it will be an obvious (proper components) and easy build, and the current manufacturers are embarassed and follow suit. Maybe it won't survive contact with reality.
  18. Please post in English on this forum Google Translate: "When I search for bluetooth devices, the phone finds the wheel but cannot connect, despite the window asking for a code or other key. Do we leave this window blank, or try 0000 or 1234 or whatever?"
  19. Seems so, but actually that just means it has an axle that is thick enough. A metal rod that can take 600lbs... is not that thick. Just not too thin. Same with the rest. His approach basically is "just do it right like you would do it anyways", so beefy components - and the rest follows automatically. No cooling needed (because beefy components don't even get hot), high current ratings, robustness, and so on. These are basically non-features, but our history with Chinese manufacturers makes it sound like it's something special. So much that I wonder if it is not that easy just to use
  20. Sounds very ambitious. Not sure if it's ugly or cool looking. I hope it's not loud like all ebike motors seem to be. 2160Wh with 200 cells comes out to 3000mAh cells at 3.6V. Not sure why you would do that. Could be 2520Wh with 3500mAh cells. They are rated for 15A though instead of the usual 10, but who needs that with a 10p system?
  21. Probably. I don't really know, so don't quote me on that, but this is how it seems to be. I mean, the motor is the same (minus the hollow core vs. thinner axle thing), the battery is the same... what else is it going to be?
  22. As the others already said, that's why I put the sizes in quotes, that's just how the wheels are called by the manufacturers It believe "16 inch wheel" is 12 inches rim size, and "18 -20 inch wheels" are 14. And I don't think one way is naturally better than the other. Maybe on motorcycles/cars the rim size is more important, as you need some kind of machine to get the tires on, and you need to have the right machine? While on a bike, EUC, etc you can do the tire change by hand, and buying the wrong size tire isn't as bad as buying the wrong size machine. It's the only explanation (
  • Create New...