meepmeepmayer

Both are great wheels. Trust your intuition which one you should get. Personally I would tend towards the V11. Both have the exact same tire size, no difference there.

Not my video. I really enjoyed this one, a nice relaxing and scenic ride in the Seattle area. Since it's a Sherman range test, a lot of ground covered Check the map at the end!

The end of the metal bar acting as a stand is a good idea.

There's the MSX, of which there is only one version. Could be called HS because it has that kind of motor. Then there is the MSP, which was originally HT but people complained about speed so they also built a HS version. And then there is the RS (in HS and HT flavors) as the latest model in the msuper series. Do you mean the older MSX specifically or just these kinds of wheels? I'd get the V11 anyways. Suspension, fast enough, nice lights, what else do you want! It also depends on the prices, if one is much cheaper than the other...

How do you know a topic got too big and crazy (*cough* S18 topic *cough* V11 topic)? It now gets its own statistics box (on the right)! Same mess, better overview

I guess they ran out of 67V boards and it didn't make sense to keep them in production. Not sure where the 460Wh come from. It's 2p with 3100mAh cells... Gotway never used cells like these. And I can't find a different explanation for the battery size.

Yes please don't pay 1000 for a 14S, even new! For 1000 you can get awesome new or used wheels.

Wait this was a surprise update for you, too? At least we were all surprised

Yeah the price is reasonable. 1200km is essentially new (unless the wheel is banged up heavily). 1860Wh is roughly 70-90km range, so 1200km divided by that means you definitely have less than 20 charge cycles (again, virtually new).

There's a new "author" tag on every post made by the thread starter.

Well then let's hope it won't appear again It's not critical because even a hall sensor failure during riding wouldn't lead to a crash. So you can enjoy your brand new nice ride in peace

Ask your seller first! This is a brand new wheel and you should not have any issues. If you want to check (as long as you don't lose your warranty then or something): Remove the right side panel, switch the wheel on, and carefully wiggle around the hall sensor wires and hall sensor connector (beginning with the complete cable sleeve coming from the motor, and then follow the thin hall sensor cables to their connector from where the sleeve ends) to see if there is a loose connection or anything that causes the beeps again. If this wasn't a one time glitch, then the likely cause is some slight damage to the hall sensor wires (or sensor?) somewhere, which would mean you would need a new motor. Again, ask your seller before anything else. Not cool to have such errors on a brand new wheel.

I'm sure the color theme can be tweaked. Some places the contrast is bad. We have collapsible quotes now! Look: While writing the post it does not collapse.

If the battery charges to full (holds the voltage, use any app to see the voltage, it's supposed to be >84V) and there is no obvious mechanical damage (maybe closely check the rim to see if it is dented) or signs of a big crash (just ask for crashes), there is little that can be wrong with a used wheel

You finally got your hands on it, nice! Looks like it has excellent weight balance. Veteran pls build an upgraded version with suspension.

Maybe somewhere there are "racing" tires with little or no rubber profile?

Thank you Mike! So I thought tire diameter beats everything else, but I guess weight distribution also matters a lot if you say the MSX feels nimbler than your (lovely, lovely, lovely 2700Wh) Nik. That makes me think the V11 might be the torque king among the 18 inchers? The battery weight seems as close to the axle (center of rotation) as it can be on the V11. [My main concern isn't accelerating or mountain climbing, I just dislike if you need to put in a lot of effort to brake (think step downhill, but also in general).] Missing word there?

How is the Nikola vs. the 16X? Does one of the two feel more torque-y? I shortly tried a 16X and it felt very top-heavy and delayed and you needed to move to brake (mind you I'm coming from an ACM which is super reactive and probably closer to the MCM5 than any other wheel). This topic convinced me I want a 14x3 or 15x3 wheel (probably 15.5x3 or 16.5x3 in reality) with a huge battery. All these lots-of-lean-needed wheels aren't for me. Effortless crazy torque please.

0.3 charge cycles/hour * 5000mAh = 1.5A during the charge cycle. For 4p (1800Wh) that's 4*1.5A = 6A charging. (Don't expect me to know what I'm computing, but that's how I would do it.) Copying your calculation, assuming 5000mAh and 3.7V, the exact number is 24*4*3.7V*5Ah/100.8V = 1776Wh/100.8V = 17.62Ah, times 0.3/h that's 5.29A. Taking the even more exact 3.63V from the data sheet instead, you get 5.19A. Not sure why these numbers aren't the same as 6A and which one to use. Good luck I guess - 0.3C seems awfully low, but it is how it is. Maybe build a little heater box for your battery, then you get 0.7C at >25°C which gets you 14A charging Which just means (to my very uninformed self) we shouldn't take those numbers too seriously. The battery behavior doesn't suddenly jump from "0.3 is good" to "0.7 is good", does it? Or maybe it does, I wouldn't know.

@Rehab1 That's nonsense, and I don't even have to get into politics to argue it. I just have to ask: What if EUCs are not allowed where you live? Are you supposed to not ride? The answer, obviously, is that you ride anyways Running red lights isn't among the things anyone should justify though. Is there a need for that? I don't think so.

Agreed! Can you imagine the V11 with double the battery (would only add one inch on each side) or a 18'' equivalent?

He says he is in Ohio, I added it to the title.

The forum administrator has been notified I don't think people can delete their own profile. I don't see a button anywhere on mine.

That's not a joke, that's just a description

It's the batteries. Having a decent motor doesn't help if the batteries are too weak to support it properly. The OW+ XR has a 324Wh battery, the Pint half of that with 147Wh. If these were EUCs they would be laughed out of the room. And you have much more leverage on a Onewheel than on EUC pedals, so overleaning is even more easy in comparison. The OW is such a cool form factor, though, I wish someone built one with EUC-like specs.