meepmeepmayer

Hast recht, vielleicht ginge es theoretisch ohne Aufladen bergab. Gibts aber nicht

If you want to do it the fancy way, get something like this: https://eunicycles.eu/en/home/200-chargeman-gotway-100v.html Plug the two chargers into it and the charge man into your wheel. Otherwise, a simple 2-into-one Y-cable should suffice. Same thing without the display and extra functions. Be careful that your wheel's charge port and charge cabling support the 6A you intend to put through them. Edit your first post to change the title. Or simply hover your mouse over the title for instructions.

Ein V11 ist sicher ein super Pendler-Gerät. Soll ja auch bequem sein, und da hilft die Federung sicher enorm. Und der Preis ist noch nicht zu extrem. Sollten dir bis zu 45km/h Reisegeschwindigkeit dann doch zu langsam sein, kannst du immer noch später aufrüsten auf was Schnelleres (Sherman ist schon sehr nett, oder was immer Gotway dann gerade aktuell hat). EUCs kann man schlecht mal so eben probefahren. Das dürfte eher abschreckend wirken. Stell dir vor du hast in deinem Leben noch nie ein Fahrrad angefasst und dann willst du in 10 Minuten testen ob das was für dich wäre (am besten mit einem schweren Postfahrrad oder so). Da ist das Ergebnis wohl eher dass du dir was anderes suchst weil es am Anfang zu kompliziert ist. Das ist auch der Grund, wieso Messeaussteller und Händler die Leute meist nicht mehr probieren lassen. Sonst rennen die weg wenn es nach 10 Sekunden nicht klappt. Klar, das muss nicht immer so sein. Aber allgemein solltest du wollen und wissen dass es was für dich ist bevor du ggf. eines ausprobierst. Sonst riskierst du was zu verpassen. Nur dass du vorgewarnt bist Wenn du die Gelegenheit zum Probieren hast, kannst du sie natürlich nutzen, aber am Besten nach der Entscheidung für ein EUC. Zumindest sehe ich das so. Zwangsläufig macht das jeder Elektromotor, also auch jedes EUC.

Someone's going to have to disassemble their production wheel and have a look. Let's hope at least some better, professional plastic parts are used. As for the design... idiosyncrasies (I'm trying to be positive here)... who knows.

There are extra thinner balancing(?) cables between the two packs, right? How would that work with 4 packs? I love the idea! It's just a question of what cables to use to connect the packs.

Have one look at their brittle 3D-printed speaker housing (e g. check the EcoDrift disassembly). That alone would for me be a reason not to buy any EX. Otherwise an RS but done better isn't a bad idea!

At your price point, a used wheel will be much more bang for your buck than a new one. ~500 should get you a used V8, for example, and for $800-900 you can get a seriously good top model from two years ago, more than you might want. It may need a bit of time and luck for the right offer to come along, but there are plenty of wheels going around. So don't rush if the offer isn't right and take your time. I'm sure you can find something for you. Luckily, the DC area you're in seems quite active with EUC riders. I'm sure there's a Telegram conversation group or something similar where you can ask what wheels people would want to sell. You can start with the links here and ask in the DC thread: Also I'm sure@Cutiyo(Vee from Youtube) knows how to get to know people and groups in the DC area. (<- this thing notifies her) And you can always try the used sales forum on this site (it can also give you an indication on prices and what you can get for the money): https://forum.electricunicycle.org/forum/24-private-sales-secondhand/ Just check what wheels were sold in your price range, there should be quite a lot of options.

500 is way too expensive. If you can get one for like 150, that's a learner wheel and learner only. Otherwise, not worth the money It may depend on luck and circumstances, but you might be able to get a nice used wheel for 500. What do you see yourself doing with the EUC? Because for a bit more money, your options widen considerably.

Great idea! Make a picture in daylight with all the colors.

Bee-Gow-Duh This is worse than I expected

Torque is also limited by your speed vs. the max speed (zero torque speed) of the motor. Bigger batteries can only help against voltage sag, not this. I suspect at 55kph vs. 80kph no-load speed, this might have been the bigger part of the problem. Looks like the general rule still applies: if you want to go x kph in earnest, buy a wheel that can easily go x+10 kph. That's a good conclusion Or you keep the higher speed limit but are very careful with accelerations at high speed.

EX but with RS motor... what's the difference to the RS? Will it even ride any different? I'm confused why they didn't take the EX motor, it's fast enough after all.

Pronounce it in French, then it sounds fancy

Brilliant! Sad you had to do this much work, but I guess someone needs to tell King Song how to do it right

(Post the full youtube.com URL to get an embed)

Great idea! Also, you might soon get an intuition what x voltage means, without needing any battery percentage. Or you just remember some numbers. 30% = 85V, and with voltage drop 30% is more like 15%, that's when the battery beeps start. So you can ride in earnest down to 85V (no load). Half way (range) is maybe... 65%? That corresponds to 92V. And so on. Or you go by range, you know which range to expect from your wheel once you test it, and forget what happens in between. Lots of options

3.3V*24 = 79.2V is 0%, 4.1125V*24 = 98.7V is 100%. Go linearly in between: Battery % = (your voltage - 79.2V)/19.5V. [19.5V is just 98.7V-79.2V, the voltage difference between 0% and 100%] For example 84V is (84-79.2)/19.5 = 0.246... = 25%. Side notes: The 3 digit display won't show voltages of 100V or more because there's not enough digits, how very Gotway Voltages below the 0% voltage still show as 0%, voltage above the 100% voltage still show as 100%. You can charge over 100%, indeed a full battery is 111% but displays as 100%. It's the easiest thing for Gotway to do. The voltage is an objective physical measurement. The battery percentage is subjective in that it can be computed (from the voltage) in different ways, depending on what you want it to mean. The above way is just the dirt simple way to do it. Do you want 50% to mean you have half your range left? That's definitely not true for the formula above. Change your algorithm accordingly, that's what EUC World offers as an option. Also the battery percentage might not even be available "inside" the wheel, just as a number computed by an app later. The wheel might just know the voltage. Would it be hard to make the calculation to a battery percentage in the firmware? Certainly not. But... it's still a tiny bit of work. Why do it in your firmware and figure out how to display it in your display if someone else can do it in their app? So Gotway went the path of least resistance, I guess. And you can't argue about voltage, which is a side benefit. But you are definitely right, being able to show a battery percentage instead would be sweet! A light behind a stencil (right word?), with a colored translucent diffraction piece in between - you only see the holes lit up. I think the Monster V3 did something like it, and people copied it.

Well I guess that's officially too small for a performance EUC if a sudden spike can kill them (or maybe it was the capacitors, then they are too small).

I forgot: a good mud guard that is more than an afterthought and protects against water and dust. You can't commute with a EUC if you can't arrive clean.

45V is deader than dead (assuming the display is even correct with such values). No idea why this is happening to you. I guess all you can do is return the wheel or have them send you new battery packs.

How loud is this tire? On the scale from silent to angry hornet swarm?

I hope you are ok? That's sound just like a "normal" overlean where you run out of torque close to the top speed. What's the lift speed of the V11?

This looks to me like the classic sudden power spike -> mosfet fries situation. Here's pictures of the V11 board situation. What size are the mosfets? Is this TO-247 or TO-220 or something else? (All pics by EcoDrift, from here and here)

Maybe it's that. I can't imagine anything one could inadvertently do to kill a battery in ~10 charge cycles.

What voltage does it display for 0% battery? If you can get it to full and the charger is green, what voltage does it display then? How many km/miles did you have on the 16XS (roughly)? The only thing I can remotely come up with: battery cells need to be balanced regularly (like once a month would be good). That only happens at full charge. Maybe you always removed the charger (when it went green) when it was still too low for that? Keep the charger in for a few hours after it goes green once in a while, to allow for (more) balancing. But I don't think that is it. Even unbalanced cells wouldn't just fail like this and this quickly. This is indeed strange, but it does look like the problem is somehow related to what you do