meepmeepmayer

It doesn't have to be super upright. Just it turned out that not being upright can produce a bad calibration. As well as the wheel not being still. The calibration also may end up to take a few cryptic beeps longer than you think it does, so keep the wheel in place until everything is definitely over.

No there is not. Just the one you described. It's important to not have the wheel tilted sideways when calibrating (front/back does not matter, this is just how you can set the pedal angle), and also it should be still (don't hold it in your hand, lean it as upright as possible against a wall). Pedal dipping is just from a bad calibration, then tilting the wheel sideways (like in curves) throws the sensor off and what it thinks is down isn't exactly down, hence the dipping. Sometimes it's a game of luck if a calibration is good, and if the sensor on your board is more or less prone to dipping (these things really aren't high-end). You can try an intentionally bad calibration (wheel heavily tilted sideways + crazy pedal angle) and after that a good one and see if that changes anything. Anything to coax your sensor to behave...

An MCM5 v2 seems like the perfect compromise between low enough weight/portability and great power/climbing/accelerating/stopping ability. For a city commute that isn't too long (like yours) where zippyness and reactiveness might count more than speed or comfort, it seems perfect. Since there are a lot of EUC riders around you, consider meeting some and looking at the different wheels to get an idea what you want from your wheel. If you don't know what to think of EUCs, think of them as a bicycle. All the same stuff applies. Use them where you'd bike, and don't use them where you wouldn't bike. You often would go on the bike path and not the road unless you go fast, they are for medium but not high (70kph) speeds, etc. They are not motorbikes. That might explain your observations. Stopping power depends on how badly you lean. EUCs brake as strong as you want them to (and friction allows).

Does the wheel feel weaker in general regarding acceleration, too? If yes, that might be a bad capacitor. If no, I can't explain it. Braking should not even depend on the battery, the only thing that can potentially go wrong is when if the regeneration exceeds the charge capacity of the battery pack. That doesn't happen so fast... Maybe pump up your tire and see if that does anything.

The gyro sensor is calibrated when the wheel is produced, and there's no need for you to ever recalibrate unless you have a gyro-related problem (pedal dipping in curves, or a totally off calibration aka badly tilted pedals). These things just measure the pitch/jaw/roll and (a bit) the corresponding accelerations. Same thing as in smartphones. Doesn't matter where on Earth (or the moon) you are All a new calibration does is zero in on which direction gravity points. No. No. Why would it? No. But they can slowly drift over time because they are not very precise, and if they develop issues (e.g. pedal dipping in curves), you can reset them with a new calibration. There are no automatic calibration processes.

Both numbers are right (or wrong). They are different interpretations of the same physical battery state (the voltage). Only voltage counts. The battery has a voltage where it is full (84V) and empty (I think that's 63V here). The KS app simply interpolates linearly between those two states. The middle between 84V and 63V (73.5V) is displayed as 50%, and so on. So if you plug in your number of 74.5V, you get (74.5-63)/(84-63) = ~55%. But in real life, the voltage drops faster when the battery is emptier (the discharge curve is non-linear), so at 50% (voltage in the middle between full and empty) you're quite beyond the point of no return. You don't get as much range from the last x% as you get from the first x%. The EUC World algorithm tries to be more "realistic" and is more elaborate: battery percents should correspond to range. (Or something like that, I know no details.) So if it displays 50%, it means you have used half of your overall range and are at the point of no return, and so on. (Again, not sure if it's indeed range or something different.) That's why it gives you a lower battery percentage in comparison. You can also switch EUC World to the other algorithm (same as KS app). - Darknessbot possibly defaults to a 67.2V wheel, so any voltage above that might count as 100%. Maybe there's a setting somewhere where you can switch what wheel type it expects (you want 84V)? Or it simply does not work at all for some other reason. - Btw, an error from expecting a certain battery size can not happen because the wheel doesn't even see the battery size. A wheel only sees the battery voltage. A bigger battery (like in the 16X) has the exact same voltages, they change just more slowly because the battery is bigger. So a wheel won't know how big a battery is connected (and it doesn't matter for how the wheel works). It only sees how full the connected battery is (the voltage, which counts for how it works - e.g. speed reductions at a certain low battery state).

Ukulele I assume.

Added the location. You couldn't yet edit posts as you were a brand new member, but now you can.

There are the alarms internal to EUC World, and then there is the command to disable the wheel's speed beeps. You might have done the first but not the second.

No. There aren't many beeps. Speed beeps (2 or 3 beeps, called the 1st and 2nd alarm) which can be disabled, and 80% alarm = 3rd alarm (5/continuous beeps) which cannot be disabled, low battery beeps (1 or 2 or 3 beeps but slower) which cannot be disabled, and that's about it. Any app can only make your phone beep, never the wheel. The wheel does not know or care about app alarms. That's most likely just the speed beeps which traditionally are at 30kph (~20mph) and 35kph (not sure if these numbers apply for the Nikola or are different). You just need to disable the 1st/2nd alarm speed beeps. An app can disable (or enable) these two speed beeps.

Baby steps! At least now nothing is stopping them... (Yes you're absolutely right.) Seems to be a standard part, just google their designation "61824-2RS". I don't think you have to worry about quality the slightest in such an important, standardized thing like a ring bearing.

Definitely! Allows bigger cables, and is much neater. And made from aluminium entirely! I'm sure they can figure out a way to save some weight later.

The information about the big bearings in the hollow motor is worth noting: Over 1kg weight just from the bearings!

There's videos of a custom EUC like this. 10+ inch wide tire. Shown in sand and on a golf course. It's somewhere on Youtube.

Somebody must have made that up. Never ever heard that. And it's a bad name. Yikes? Pukes? "Wheel(s)" please.

EcoDrift pictures of the RS: Russian Original - English (Bing Translator) EcoDrift disassembles the RS (and compares to MSP and MSX): Russian Original - English (Bing Translator) All picture credit goes to @EcoDrift. Build quality seems to be the usual... don't look too close I don't think anybody expected anything else. New motor is nice though!

Hm that makes sense. If you can disconnect one pack directly at the pack, all the other stuff, including the charging cabling, stays unaffected. So one doesn't have to care about the details! Cool

The phone call

VR can lead to some real life falls as you are not seeing where you are moving

Judging from the facts: yes it is! Of course we all know it is not. The manufacturers just seem to live in their own strange world. Wheels need a car-like rotating light knob for quick access to all the important light modes. Pressing a single button 25 times isn't the pinnacle of user interface design.

Yes, your recipe was exactly right. Given the circumstances, this is the best possible outcome. Big pack ok smaller one has the damage. Now you have a 512Wh MCM5 - Do you by any chance have an idea where the charging cables (which I forgot about in the picture) come in? I think they are just part of the Y-cable, but I'm not sure.

"Realistically" being the key word here: that's mostly what is happening now, at least from the spec side. Big batteries, powerful and well-designed motors. Now the quality and reliability/size of the electronic components is another thing... even though everything works very reliably, it could be much better and more trustworthy designed. There are some hard limits, though, mostly battery size and therefore weight, that will limit how powerful a EUC can be, especially small and light ones. A V5F-like wheel with high speed and massive amounts of power will not happen before a serious technological breakthrough (like 10x better batteries). And electric motors have an inherent top speed, which means you can overpower any EUC just by going fast enough because it gets weaker (approaching zero torque) when approaching this limit speed. That will never change unless someone has a clever idea how to circumvent that. But overwhelming a big battery, fast wheel other than going too fast is pretty hard already. 99% of no-external-cause crashes seem to be just people going too fast (and accelerating too hard at speed) for the wheel they have and overleaning it.

Some discussion that clogged up this topic a bit too much has been moved here:

Ok so I moved all posts that didn't seem too related to a posted video into here. Fel free to argue about whatever you like, it's just not supposed to clog up the Video Thread. Also I'm happy everyone here is trying to be constructive and friendly, thanks guys

It's for posting videos "If you have an interesting video of you riding, or whatever, post it here." (First line of the first post) So everyone who made a EUC-related video is welcome to post it here People who want to see EUC videos can browse this thread and find something to watch. Ideally, with not too many distractions and not too many lengthy discussions in this very thread. But everyone is happy about a nice or constructive comment. - In a perfect world, every video posted on this forum would be posted into this thread, so it is an index of sorts of all available videos for people to browse. The idea of having an entire video forum is: people are encouraged to start their own topic about their (or someone else's) video as well. So longer discussion can happen there and not clog up this thread (just put a link in here), and so finding a specific video is easier, etc. We also have some nice aggregate threads (No Comment, Trail Riding, ...) and everyone is free to start a themed collection of their own. This thread is just for pretty much any EUC video that someone might enjoy watching (or enjoy posting). I'll try.