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meepmeepmayer

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Everything posted by meepmeepmayer

  1. I changed the "18S" in the title to "S18" because there is an old King Song 18S wheel model. Also it's very much appreciated that you make your own topic like this for a specific question instead of cramming everything into the S18 megathread Feel free to post a link to this topic into the megathread, too.
  2. 100V Tesla (and using their new 21700 type cells as they do now) means either the (physically bigger) battery would no longer fit in the existing shell, or the battery would be small (900Wh max). So I think it's unlikely to expect a 100V Tesla. A new nimble 16 incher would be nice, but people seem to buy the 18 inch "16 inchers" with a wide tire (Nikola, 16X) or 18 inchers (msuper etc.) more. So I'm not sure how much interest GW has in a real Tesla sucessor. KS didn't follow up the 16S either. I'm hoping to see performance 15 inchers with a wide tire (= 16 inch real diameter) and big batteries in the future. That might be the next step for this class of wheel.
  3. In general, motor wattage numbers say pretty much nothing. Usually, more W = more oomph. That's how it has been till now. But you cannot predict anything concrete from the motor W number (like 2500W vs. 3000W) as long as it is big enough (2000W and above), and whether "more W" makes a stronger wheel or just coincides with a new model with better firmware or motor construction I'm not sure. In the end, the battery and the firmware (and the electronics) decide how much power can be pumped into a motor (motors can take a ton of power) before battery usage gets too crazy high (not efficient to accelerate a big tire hard) or the battery can't give more or the board fries. Motors are the strongest link. So you need concrete experiences to tell you how a wheel and its motor turn out. Anything above 2000W seems to be "big enough", and how a specific new motor behaves isn't really told by its W rating (which is a very vague concept anyways as far as I can tell). You need to look what people say about a specific wheel compared to its predecessor with a "weaker" motor, for example. I'm certainly no expert on this though, that's just my impression how it works.
  4. The MSP didn't get any worse, the RS still has no suspension, and just wait until the RS first production batch problems inevitably appear The MSP being faulty from the start is nasty though... Did you ask your seller if you can exchange for an RS?
  5. Did they ever clarify what went on there? Sudden pedal dipping? Firmware bug? Was that at top speed? Looks like an overlean-like situation to me. I'd guess with the distance he covered while it happened he would have been on the ground already in a cut-off. But in the end it's just a semantic question. Overlean or cut-off, we don't want either to happen
  6. Seems like a waste of money to me. I'd just get a bigger battery wheel instead (used or new). Or a V10F instead of the 16S (not sure about prices though).
  7. Wheel stops working instantly. E.g. board dies mid-ride. Happens extremely rarely. That would be an overlean, and some people claim they can recover from one.
  8. Did you try a custom google search? This forum's search functionality is forgettable. For example (didn't find anything but maybe with the right search terms): https://www.google.com/search?q=site%3Aelectricunicycle.org+"line-x"
  9. Gotway MCM5! 14 incher, but extremely powerful and in another league compared to all other 14 inchers (of which there aren't really many). Definitely get an MCM5 before going for a 14S. The latest MCM5 v2 even has a 2.5 inch wide tire, making it even better offroads. I think those would be a bit different wheels, not as zippy, but much more comfortable and smooth at speed than a 14 incher. An entirely new experience and not necessarily a bad choice! In that case, go for the V10F (or one power step up for a Nikola or a 16X, but those are almost 18 inchers). I can't really recommend the 16S nowadays, I'd take a V10F (better overall package) or Tesla (more speed and power) over it any day.
  10. I wish the mobile web version wasn't so mediocre. Firefox on Android got fast with the recent update, so the tech side works very well.
  11. Tell me about it!! Though I recently had the opportunity to ride a 18XL a bit and lug it up my two flights of stairs a few times. That made me realize how unpleasantly heavy the Sherman must be. I wonder if it is too heavy. And it has no suspension. (I'm just making up stuff to feel better, I wouldn't mind one)
  12. My head would say "Get the V11!" and my heart would make me get the Sherman - because 3200Wh are 3200Wh. But I like range. Depending on what you want to do with it, and especially if you are looking for a great allrounder, the V11 certainly seems the non-crazy wheel to buy. Also: suspension on the V11!
  13. Can be used, but are not used (see V11 - 12AWG or 14AWG or whatever is NOT a thick cable). I think that's one of the biggest disappointments - the manufacturers finally switch to thicker axles (in the end, that's what a "hollow bore motor" is) and then it turns out they don't understand what the point of it was and don't use the opportunity. I expect nothing better from Gotway. I would love to be proven wrong here, but I don't expect I will
  14. If you get some kind of error message, that hints towards a board issue. Checking whether the board is loose or the shell is loose (both means the board moves against the motor, which can produce vibration etc.) is worth it though.
  15. You won't manage to produce the necessary currents without serious continuous inclines involved. So that was to be expected First batch is good if you don't go up some crazy hill.
  16. I'm not 100% sure this test proves the Sherman could have done in without the stop, but anyways, the point is clear: it can do Overheat Hill (let's assume the best) but that's not what you're supposed to do with it And the second batch got a lot of improvements, which is nice
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