meepmeepmayer

One can hear Marty's deflated mood in the disassembly commentary. Marty, thank you for busting your ass to give us these tests! It's the life you chose, can't live without new wheels, can't live with them

The board? The main body is still and the saddle with attached pedals moves, right?

I did not preheat, but in hindsight that might have been a good idea, so if you can do that, do it. When I repaired my rim, I didn't expect it to work and expected to need a motor replacement. So I wasn't very careful or concerned. I just put it in the vice and slowly tightened the vice until the wheel rim was mostly straight again. I did get a little crack (of no consequence, but it happened), so your preheating idea is very good.

Going by how Gotway has done everything until today: It's going to be three 900Wh packs (three 24s2p packs for a 6p configuration). The 1800Wh Gotways simply have two of these standard 900Wh packs, and I expect this one to have three of them (two packs on the left side, and one pack + the board on the right side). Anything else doesn't make much sense. We'll see.

Nevermind I overlooked the "custom" in "custom seat". I wrongly thought there was an official Inmotion seat.

Do you have a photo of the seat? Nevermind

As a new user, the edit function was not available yet so this might have confused you. Now you can edit You can press the "edit" button on the first post and you can edit the title of your topic. You can also long-click the title to change it. Hover your mouse over the title and an instruction will appear. That only works on Desktop, not on mobile. (That also wouldn't work for a brand new member.) Thanks for doing the legwork regarding your sales post!

Yea the Gotway EX is doomed in this respect. Another thing that was obvious to everyone except the guys designing and building the wheel ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Looks like suspension wheels need to hang from the suspension so the pedals are the lowest part sticking out to the side of the motor, not sit on the suspension. Who could have seen that coming

Wow, looks like the V11 is a winner! I expected it to be comfortable and smooth, but looks like is also really powerful. Looking forward to overheat hill. Not a direct comparison, but do you like the Sherman or the V11 more now that you tried both? Whatever "like" means?

Picture please Is it the "new Gotway board" from the MSP etc?

850 just for a learner is a lot of money. You can get a pretty nice used wheel for that kind of money if you're lucky (or a used learner for less). Check out the second hand forum here. The 14D isn't bad, though, and can work as an (initial) allrounder. There's also the mten3, but it would be more of a fun wheel and not so much general purpose. As a learner and for fun it's a great wheel though. Do you have any specific ideas and dreams how you will use the EUC?

Hi. Do you have a concrete budget? Also, what's your approximate weight? Is it mostly for learning, or do you intend to keep it longer/buy no second EUC?

In that second Sherman kill video, it fries after like 10 seconds on a very steep test hill. What temperature sensor is going to engage before it's too late there?

In general, unless want a specific model or you have specific demands like super high speed (MSP or Sherman) or range (Sherman), it's hard to recommend anything but the V11 to a new rider in this 18'' class of wheels right now. It has a great battery size, good speed, lots of nice features, and of course the suspension. You don't have to pick that up right now (but of course you can). Learn to ride and get used to your new wheel (e.g. the V11 saddle is soft at the top, so there is enough padding) and then you can think about performance-targeted stuff like powerpads, you're in no hurry there Whether these work or model-specific pads are better I can't say.

The only argument speaking against the V11 is its quite high weight. The 18XL isn't much lighter, though. I see no reason for you to buy a suspensionless wheel in a suspension world You can usually set speed beeps or tiltback. You can also use an app and set some speed warnings from your phone.

This looks like a rubber gasket sticking out. To repair it, you'd have to disassemble that part, seat it properly, and put everything back together. For a new wheel, the seller should fix this. At least contact the guy and ask how to proceed.

V11 for sure. Not that the 18XL is suddenly bad. But for approximately the same price...

Now you can PM.

Please stay on topic guys

2100Wh is a 84V battery size though... unless this is a special configuration? The 100V Nik comes in 1800Wh (21700 type cells) or 1845Wh (18650 type cells). Or did you mean to write 2170 (meaning the 1800Wh configuration)? edit: It's 1800Wh

You can now.

It's funny how this is a precise repeat of what happened 3 years ago with the ACM/ms3 level wheels. Back then, cables melted and mosfets fried. They used thicker cabling (barely, but it worked) which necessitated a thicker axle, and bigger mosfets. Now, at a new higher power level, cables melted and a capacitor fried, and guess what the solution must be: thicker axle with thicker cables, and bigger caps. It's embarassing, but at least something positive will come from this... right? Right?!

Then King Song would be a Gotway psyop, too. Because engineers being unhappy with Gotway management's decisions and running off to start their own company is how both KS and Veteran supposedly started. But who knows, maybe they are, and we are all being had (and fleeced)

I don't believe people here know more than the people making EUCs for 5+ years. People here can simply point out basic electronic design flaws like wiring getting hot (which it never should in the first place). I think it's just an attitude difference - design from scratch for the demands you know are there (plus some headroom) vs. upgrading the basic Solowheel clone hardware as minimal as possible for each step, and saying everything is ok as long as the wheel works (with no knowledge of guarantees) in their unsystematic testing (includes the first batch customers), and just slightly upgrading only the failed component otherwise or just doing some kind of lame workaround. Don't get me wrong, give me enough money/investors and I'll build my own EUCs with blackjack and hookers and whatever else the current manufacturers won't do. But it's not like they couldn't easily do it themselves. - Maybe it would be fruitful to simply list the "obvious" (to us here) things that we would like the manufacturers do to. Like Minimum of 1.5cm clearance between the tire and the shell at the narrowest point, as well as a minimum of 1cm clearance to the sides of the tire. Stuff like that. Just a list of minimum standards?

I don't think you can sell the rights to "Use thicker cables you dumbasses" or "Put the battery packs and board in separate nice waterproof boxes" or "Just choose the component from the list that has a higher continuous spec than your peak continuous power" or "Look up ergonomics in a dictionary" or "Some people weigh more than 50kg, stop designing for that!" or stuff like that Anyways, progress is happening, and hopefully the Sherman frying means a move to "bigger" components in the future.