Jump to content


Full Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

17 Good

About reach

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location
  • EUC
    Inmotion V8

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi, when I dis- an re-assembled my V11 for the first time I came across this issue. See the video. When tightening the red nut, the entire rod turns with it. Hence I can't fasten the whole thing decently. Not even so that the snap-ring compresses as much as it should. I could hold the rod with a pipe wrench, but either I scratch it badly when doing that, or I protect it with some cloth, then I need to apply really much pressure with the wrench to keep it from twisting. Also, the rod itself is screwed together with the part where the tread is. So even when holding the rod, the threa
  2. The headlight you need to take apart to the last screw. See the picture. Don't forget the 2 screws sitting under the Inmotion badge on the front! Ok, that one piece marked in the picture could have stayed on I think, but even this I dampened underneath to be sure. On the wheel it's not too bad: - both saddle pieces need to go off - the electronics cover needs to come off. For this you need to empty the air of the suspension, otherwise the frame will be in a position where you can't reach one particular screw on the side of the cover. - the two forward "carbon" side
  3. Exactly the same here! Just one year V8, not 2. At first the V11 is scary! Mounting is weird, because unmounted it's so high and it only goes to normal hight once you fully stand on it. In the first corners it felt like a tank. I thought I'll never master this. But thinking back it was the same when I mounted a knobby tire on my V8. Just a few kilometers and you don't notice the difference any more. The biggest and really, really bad downside is the weight!! Next to it the V8 feels like a toy. Now in winter I'm barely riding, so I'm storing the V11 in the basement. Carrying it there
  4. It's fixed!! Here is what I did: I kept knocking against the unmounted headlight and disassembled it as long as I heard a vibration. Turns out that I had to disassemble it completely to find the culprit: it was the plexi-glass part that distributes the light from one LED to that sexy ring shape. It was sitting on the bare plastic and apparently had so much play that it could vibrate against that. I took black insulating tape, folded it, so it's double thick, softer and doesn't stick. Put it in the groove where the ring sits and put everything together. Made a test ride - perfect sile
  5. I found the source of the noise! As you can see in this video, I can easily trigger the noise also without riding. Shortly before the wheel stops, there comes the noise. Now, if I hold the headlamp's glass, the noise is gone. I've tried holding everything else - no effect - it's definitely the glass. I'm now waiting for the OK from my reseller to fix this without losing warranty. Maybe he also has some instructions how to take it apart easily. I'll report here when done.
  6. Hi, I've disassembled my V8's motor for the first time because after a crash I'm having the "knocking noise" again. (the first time I just got it replaced by the reseller) After taking it apart, I have a few questions, maybe one of you, who has already done this can answer: - I only have one of the thicker washers (see picture). It is 99,9999% impossible that I've lost the second one in my workshop. Could it be that there's only one but it still worked? (meanwhile I had a machine shop making the second one. So, no issue, just wondering) - I have 3 of these thin wash
  7. I didn't touch my V11 since then. Instead I took my V8 apart because that also makes some noises. I think I'll ask my reseller before I do anything. Maybe they have some experience.
  8. Hi, I haven't ridden my V11 much yet, just a few meters in front of my house. Waiting for the summer. But everytime I try it, this noise makes me mad: It's definitely NOT the knobs on the tire. It goes away when going a bit faster, but comes back when slow and during breaking. I think it's vibration, but it could also be scratching. Does anybody else have this and knows what it is and how to solve it? Pretty sure Id find it sooner or later, but would be great to shorten the search. Thx, reach
  9. done. Worked at the first attempt :-) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4588304 Wheel assembled and successfully tested yesterday.
  10. Very motivating, thanks! I have two colleagues with a printer and some patience and a hacker/makerspace nearby which also might help. As far as I understand, the most tricky part is the slicing. The design has to be what the original part looks like, not much to influence there, maybe apart from unnecessarily sharp edges or so. I'll keep you posted.
  11. On my way... I did 2hrs of lecture on Fusion 360 and managed to get so far. Two guide-pillars are still missing. And I need to find out, if this is good enough to give it to a guy with a printer, or if there are hundreds of conversion steps and optimizations needed. But so far it was good fun :-) (and I ned to find out, if the base-plate, which is in fact also curved, can be printed that way. I doubt, because the would mean the entire thing only stands on the edges. Difficult to find out without having a printer myself for trial and error) https://ibb.co/SssDYfn
  12. Absolutely! I considered doing that (although I've already seen how complex these 3D programs are)! Unfortunately these parts are already broken and - as far as I remember, from when I last had it completely open - not reconstructable since parts are missing. I found a dealer who has the parts on stock. ~30EUR incl. shipping. Not the end of the world, but a readily available 3D model would be much better of course.
  13. Hi, I have already found several things on thingiverse allowing me to repair this and that. Now I was hoping to find the same for my Inmotion V8, but sadly there is nothing. Has anybody produced any files by chance? I'm currently looking for the inner parts of the kill-switch. There are small plastic plates inside the grip which "guide" the kill-switch which tend to break during bigger or smaller crashes. (I did find the thread "10089-attention-3d-printer-owners" but that's slightly off topic) reach
  14. That's exactly what I wrote in my original question ;-)
  15. All you say is correct. It did feel slippery in the moist grass, so yes, knobby does have advantages. Just not sure if it justifies the downsides (noise. I LOVE the silence of the slick tire!) Also the duck-footed thing tends to help, but not always. More critical for me is to stand as much forward on the pedals as possible. But none is a reliable recipie for non-hurting feet. Sometimes it hurts after 3km, sometimes never. I'm rather sure it's a matter of how relaxed I am - unfortunately something I can not influence easily. Also correct is that the environmet is beautiful! :-) I lov
  • Create New...