Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'ks'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • General Electric Unicycle Forums
    • Forum Rules (and topics relating to this forum)
    • General Discussion
    • Reviews
    • Mods, Repairs, & DIY
    • Riding Safety and Protective Gear
    • Local Group Meet Ups
    • Private Sales (secondhand)
    • Commercial Advertisements
    • Off Topic Discussion
  • Brand-Specific Forums (euc only)
    • Airwheel
    • Firewheel
    • Gotway
    • Inmotion
    • IPS
    • King Song
    • Ninebot
    • Rockwheel
    • Solowheel
    • Uniwheel
  • One-Wheeled Skateboards
    • One-Wheeled Skateboards
  • Two-Wheeled Self-Balancing PEVs
    • Ninebot Mini, Segway MiniPRO, Xiaomi Mini, Airwheel S8 or equivalent
    • Segway (or equivalent)
    • Hoverboard
    • Commercial Advertisements (Ninebot Mini & equivalent only)
  • Non-Self-Balancing PEVs
    • e-Scooters
    • Other Non-Self-Balancing PEVs

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


EUC

Found 18 results

  1. So I had an unfortunate visit with the pavement today and the crack I hit was big enough and I was going fast enough that I have bent the rim on the wheel. It has a rhythmic thumping feel now as I ride around although it is probably not audible to others. I can just feel it as I ride. Does anyone know: 1) How hard it is to fix this? 2) How dangerous it is to ride on it like this? Maybe this just means I need to buy a new wheel???
  2. Hello my friends! This question is for 18XL owners... Can you share with me the true range your 18XL can make? +Your weight? The temperature outside? Thank you a lot, it will help me a lot... Have a great day guys!
  3. Hello 18xl riders! Im thinking about the true range you can get with this wheel..... I saw some youtube range tests...but they were quite different from each other... What is your range you can get with the 18XL if you cruise 25-30 mph avarage? Thank you guys, have a great sunny week!
  4. Kingsong App: a couple of bugs My new Kingsong 16B has a 20km/h speed lock on it. The new app by Kingsong is designed to be able to unlock the speed limitation, but no-one, including the people in the shop or the wholesaler, are able to get the app to unlock the wheel's limit. Pressing 'get code' leads nowhere but gets a response: Please go to my account to improve personal information. (My information has been filled out thoroughly ) The other functions on the app work correctly. Has anyone got a solution for this issue? Pete
  5. First off I like both wheels and I am not here to tell you that one wheel is better that the other. There are strong opinions both ways and the people with those opinions are not crazy or finding faults where there are none. The truth is these wheels are very different. Switching from one wheel to the other shows obvious changes in reaction in you and the wheel. The following is observation, research and educated guessing. I could be wrong. Relatively Speaking: KingSong 18XL This wheel is very refined and uses advanced software. 1) The software allows a lower spike in amperage to achieve the same acceleration. Instead of one quick high spike In amperage it gives a longer burst of lower amperage. (Per correction time unit) 2) The software also aids the rider in creating acceleration. When you first lean on an XL the wheel hesitates to accelerate at first. It allows you to get in front of the wheel and then ramps up the power to catch you. When switching from the MSX to the XL this hesitation, dip and ramping up is very obvious to me. After a few seconds of adjusting to the wheel I think,”WOW!, This thing has pep!” You can roll and twist and throw yourself off balance and the wheel just catches you....... Untill you maneuver too quickly. It takes time for the wheel to catch up. This results in an unexpected jolt of force or a momentary loss of personal balance and pressure against the pedals. In the world of motor controls this action of going from a stop, rounding up to a steady acceleration then reducing the acceleration to a plateau of a steady speed is called the “S curve” Over all the system tends to give the rider a smoother more intuitive ride. It also gets more out of less. More mileage and great acceleration out of smaller board components. The one negative observation that I have found is that at high speed hitting a bump can set off a series of miscommunications. The hesitation, the lack of something to push on caused by a dip in the pedal that results in a rush of acceleration or braking that I did not intentionally request. This problem can usually be remedied by riding like a sane person. This wheel is best suited for people that enjoy the finer things like a smooth intuitive ride with options like speakers and lift handle cut off. It is less suited for people that say things like “ Hey! .. You want to race?” Or “ I bet I can jump over that missing man hole cover” MSuper X This wheel does not have the fancy software. It uses a larger more powerful board. Power saving and amp spike reduction be damned. You do not have the exaggerated S curve to get you going. When switching to the MSX from the XL most people (beginners especially) complain that it takes soooo much more pressure on the toes to move the thing. It is actually kinda sluggish! When you start to lean on the MSX the wheel immediately starts to compensate for your actions. This disallows you to lean forward making acceleration difficult. The wheel will not allow you to get off balance. The solution is to let yourself fall forward on the wheel without putting pressure on your toes. Then once you are leaning apply pressure to your toes. You could say that the XL has an automatic transmission ( the S curve) and the MSX has a clutch. ( you fall forward then put pressure on the toes. When switching from the MSX to the XL I forget and treat the XL like I would the MSX. I fall forward then apply pressure to my toes only to get a hesitation. I then apply more pressure fearing that I am going to fall on my face. By that time it takes off like a rocket. WOW! This thing has pep. The MSX requires more riding skills on your part and in exchange leaves the decisions to you. It does not guess your intentions or aid you in them. It remains indifferent. So witch is better? The XL is more refined with better fit and finish. More options like speakers, lift handle cut off, and it comes with a mud guard. It gives a more pleasant Intuitive ride at speeds below 25 mph. ( I love the thing) The MSX is a no nonsense, you do the driving wheel. You have to man handle the thing in turns, braking and acceleration. It has a larger board that allows higher continuous amperage. It accelerates and brakes faster. It tends to be more stable at speeds above 25 mph........(and I love it more ....... unless I am cruising behind my wife at 12 mph.)
  6. Anyone noticed android ks app is saying that there is a new version of app ? But when trying to download it's saying 404 error...
  7. Hello, I am the very happy new owner of a KS 18L as a first wheel. I wanted to post my experience about learning on this wheel but also ask few questions to other 18L riders about the alarms. Background I am 175cm/78Kg (5'9"/172lbs), 39yrs, never had a unicycle, riding in Chicago with the goal to replace my train commute. Roads are mostly flat, but lots of them are full of potholes or in renovation (aka streets half tiered down with gravels and bumps that even a car driver would hate). I received my 18L from eWheels at the end of August, so it is part of the "Batch2". I also got the 5A turbo charger for it, and it works great. My experience learning to ride a unicycle on the 18L It's not harder to learn on the 18L. While I have obviously no way to compare a first experience on another wheel, I have learned to ride it in 4 days, spending 30-45 min each day (could not dedicate more time to it) It seems to me that experiences in skiing, ice skating, surfing, riding a bike without using hands, etc.. are the best lead indicators of an easy/fast learning curve. It's just another variation of finding your body balance. In day 1-2, I was practicing on my backyard on the pavement (maybe 20x10 ft): so just enough to get on and off. That's not enough distance to go fast at all, and all the balance exercises were happening at extremely low speed. I realized on day 3 in the back alley that some additional speed (and anything would have been faster than on day 1-2) was providing the stability I needed to feel comfortable and stay on the wheel. Turning is like skiing, shifting your weight on your legs. More work is needed for me to exhibit total grace but the main point here is that if the 18L was hypothetically hard to learn, I did not experience it. I ran on FW 1.07 Day 1-3 and upgraded to FW 1.11 on day 4. I did not feel any differences, but that's probably because I have not yet internalized the wheel's behavior. Note that I have only checked my tire pressure on day 5, and realized that it was only ~20 PSI. So possibly, learning on at lower pressure was easier because once I updated to ~40-45 PSI, it was harder to get on. On day 6, I commuted to work: I had terrible wobbling at medium-high speed, but thanks to the posts on this site I got rid of it by lowering the pressure a little (~35 PSI) and by adjusting my feet positioning. I would say that the most impactful posts for me were the ones from @houseofjob on feet positioning techniques. I can totally relate to analogies with skiing (I actually surprised wanting to turn like skiing: using a pole, tight the wheel between my legs and jump ?). The major tip for me was his "diagonal riding" that totally got rid of my wobbling wheel effect. I also found that balancing weight on each foot like "ice skating" slowly works too; too well maybe as the wheel keeps on accelerating while ice skating would just maintain speed (due to the resistance of the ice). On day 7, I don't have any real issues, commuting to work is great but it's still an adventure due to Chicago's traffic/roads, and It reduces my commute time by 25%. I keep on hitting the level 3 alarm (set at 35 km/h) with too much ease, which leads me to my only complain & question with this wheel: the alarms. I have not experienced any lights issues, locks, or trolley handle problems at this point. Lifting the wheel works 100% of the time for me when I do it in 2 steps: 1) I give a brief pull up on the handle ( just the handle not the whole the tire) to get the "beep", and then 2) I lift the whole wheel up. I set the wheel configuration on "experienced" on day 1, as I did not see the benefits to learn a soft wheel behavior to then change it to a more reactive one: better to just learn the reactive one from the beginining. Speed Alarms When I started riding the 18L, I hit the "back tilt" quite easily with the default settings. I then changed the speed limit values to allow me to ride without getting to the "back tilt" that quickly. That's when it hit me: the "back tilt" is supposed to be the last warning. I understand that the wheel is supposed to "Beep" or "Vibrate" or "Speak something" at three alarm levels prior to the tilt: I got none of them. Playing with the App, it seems that I can get beeps by turning off the voice, but then it seems that the wheel beeps all the time, so I ended up turning alarms 1 and 2 off and only kept alarm 3 at 35 km/h (since I believe 40 km/h is the max until I get to 200km). Also, the "vibrate" option does not seem to do anything. Is the wheel supposed to vibrate or is it the phone? Nothing happens to me. Have other experienced something different? The range control in the apps goes all the way to 60 km/h, what I happen if I set 60? Would the wheel still alert me at 40km/h (or 50km/h after the 200km)? I set the alarm 3 at 35 and the tilt back at 38, but if the wheel is smart and there is no "cut off", then I supposed I could just put 38 and 40 instead? Comments? Have some of you tried? What do you use? Btw, is Darknessbot report's speed supposed to be accurate (with iphone)? Finally, while it's somewhere on this forum, I am re-sharing one advice to protect the wheel that I found was really useful. As everyone knows, it's better to protect the wheel from crashes with bumper strips. But don't apply to the wheel directly, because the double tape leaves residues when taking it out. So instead, put first some painting tape and then stick the double tape with the bumper strips on the tape. Here are some pics of my 18L for reference. I took everything off on day 6, absolutely no tape marks. Thanks to all the people on this forum who continuously provide mentorship!
  8. Any one noticed new version of KS app for Android ? I've just installed it, and it says v1.52. I can't see any difference... If any of you see something new, please let me know. @US69 can you ask KS for changelog ? Thanks in advance.
  9. Time to sell this beauty, due to upgrading. As I'm out of town currently, I'LL check tomorrow the total milage and post actual pics too. Purchased in June last year. Some faint marks of usage on the shell, pedals scratched a bit, but hey, what d'ya expect??!! ? Other than that everything's is in working order, flawlessly and trolly still does it's job great! Asking price €880. Prefer collection, but shipping is no prob. (Costs buyer)
  10. I tried my new King Song KS-18s 1640Wh and decided to make a video of its cruising speed. I'm 6.2 feet tall and 210 pounds. So far, it's very stable, reliable, fun etc. Link for the video is below:
  11. Eventhough I got this wheel just about three months ago, I'm already looking to upgrade. Why? I feel the need for more range. This wheel can do 12-14km, but I simply want to go on for longer and not have to carry an extra battery around. Other than the range, I have no remarks about the wheel. Its fast ( I've reached 26km/h ), the automatic lights work great, and the bluetooth speaker sound pretty good too. 174wh swappable battery 25km/h top speed ( cruising speed ~22km/h) Automatic lights ( works great from my experience) + brake light Integrated bluetooth speaker Build quality seems really solid. I haven't really dropped it yet, so no mayor scratches. Milage is about 200km I'd say( The total mileage has reset itself a few times for some reason, I think its something with the app) As I said, I got it less than two months ago, so It's as good as new. Feel free to make an offer if you're interested. - Shipping to EU is possible ( but expensive; starts at €34) - Shipping to NL €13,25 -Pickup in Arnhem,GL is also possible IMO this is a great first wheel, cheap but good qualitiy/speed/features. Also good for someone looking for a cheap short range commuter. Feel free to contact me for more information.
  12. Look what the mailman brought us today. A brand new KS14S from KingSong, where the S stands for Sport. This is the latest Electric Unicycle from KingSong and I’m pretty excited as one of the first to review this unit. Let me know what you think about KS14S?
  13. So we all know KS14C has a bit of a trouble with the axle cracking. The first time it happened to me I went trough half a year long warranty process and apart from the time it cost me 290 USD as apart from the motor itself I needed new board (old one is not compatible with the new motors) and I also wanted new shell and I had to pay the shipping and taxes. I thought that with new type of motor they would have solved the issue but no... after 1400 km according to the app my axle broke again! This is how it looks from outside when your axle breaks: detail after removing the pedals: This time I was so careful! I didn't jump the curbs I had barely any falls... but maybe it was caused by not using the spacers that come between the pedal holders and motor. I didn't use them because the ones from the old motor were not compatible with the new one and I didn't receive new one with the new motor. Tina said to proceed without them but I think that was the reason why the axle broke so soon because maybe I put them a bit further apart or something like that. Anyway I didn't want to pay another hefty sum for a new motor to have it broken in few months again and I actually had a new 500W KS motor on hand since they sent it to me by mistake at first instead of the 800W one. First I tried whether it will work with my board meant for 800W motor. No surprise, it doesn't . But the axle is the same so I decided to gut the never used motor to get mine going again. So I took both motors apart. And this is how i looks: The way the wire are connected to the windings Detail of the axle: Detail of the hall effect sensor: To remove the axle you need access to a hydraulic press. I tried to hammer the axle out but had no success, I only damaged the axle even more. I study a technical university so I just went to the building of mechanical engineering and after few minutes I had time setup when I could come to use the press. In the end the people there just did it for me because of safety concerns. The press ( very old made in now nonexistent country of Czechoslovakia :D) Video of the actual removal: https://goo.gl/photos/nJ5HVcn3ogqr8ECB6 Detached axle: To remove the axle I had to remove the cabling first and of course the cabling got damaged while being pulled trough the axle. The original phase wires were 1,22mm2 with plastic insulation the hall sensor wire were 0,22mm2 also with plastic insulation. The replacement cables I used were 1,5mm2 and 0,25mm2 with silicon insulation. So potentially higher quality but they were also thicker so now sheath to put them all together could fit in the axle so i kept them separate. Also as you can see they didn't have the right colors which caused me some trouble later on when connecting to the control board. I had them labeled but the tags fell while I was pulling the cables through the motor cover So when finishing up there was a lot of experimenting with the right order. I knew which wires were for hall sensors and which for phases from thickness and I knew which wires were the power for the hall sensors because these were the only ones with the correct color. But I still had two groups of 3 wires each. That gives me 36 combinations. Anyone who ever connected the wires wrong knows how crazy the unicycle acts if you do that :/ Luckily it only took me 8 tries! Those were some horrible couple minutes! To pull the cables through the axle I used the same method as @Rehab1 - solder them all together and use single wire to pull the trough. Thanks for inspiration! Unfortunately some of the hall sensors got damaged during the axle removal so I had to change them too. The original sensors were MT4451-A (TO-92 package) as @esaj helped me discover from the markings. I could not get these in Czechia so I used TLE4935L instead as I have already used them once on different unicycle and they worked. Damaged hall effect sensor: And here is finally the finished motor with new wiring and hall sensors: After putting everything together the unicycle works! But there are some problems. It does wobble. When I ride it swings back and forth a little. It it pronounced way more while riding forwards then by riding the unicycle the wrong way with the brake light forward. Anyone has any ideas what could cause this? Here is a video of this https://goo.gl/photos/WfKaDb1iGzgadY1p6 Also the free spin maximum speed is different in each direction it is 40,6 km/h in forward (more wobbly direction) and 38,5 km/h in backwards (more stable direction). So IDK is this some mechanical problem ? the bearing perhaps? I used the motor covers from the 500W as the bearings spin much better. Could this be the cause? They seemed the same otherwise and they fit with no problem. Problem with the board maybe? During the experimenting with the right wire order combinations some nasty thing were most likely happening to the board..:/ I will see how it progresses but please if someone knows what it could be let me know I would hate going trough all this trouble to have the unicycle break down again soon after. So in total this cost me about 20 USD. 10 USD for the beers I bought the people who helped me with the press and 10 USD for the wires and hall sensors. It would cost more if I had to have the axle machined. PS. There will be part two with the older motor from the first time my axle broke and new machined axle for that
  14. I've messaged Tina regarding some things I didn't like about the new firmware update v1.23 she told me unless it's a problem for most people she wont get the developers to change anything. (Please remember this post is only for firmware V1.23 if you have not updated please do so and contribute to the post.) The purpose of this post is to get Kingsong owners to speak up what they would like to see in the app(please be as detailed as possible) I have two problems with the current firmware and App: Speed reduced at 25km/h at 50% of battery left. My wheel is currently speed unlocked so I can ride at 30km/h once battery is at 50% I can only ride at 25km/h. I want speed reduction to kick in at 20% or 25%. Exceeding speed Alarms be able to switch and turn off between Beep and "Please decelerate" and Vibration/Shake Currently there is no way to change the way it alerts you. When I first received my unit and rode past 30km/h at 90% of battery my wheel would shake/vibrate and if I pushed it even more it would start to beep. The constant beeping is very annoying for me and I usually cant hear it because I'm wearing earphones with music on. I want to be able to adjust the way the alarms are controlled allowing the rider to make decisions depending on the way they ride. EDIT: I've condensed all the posts and links to make this post easier to read. Below are other suggestions from other riders. More customizations on pedal tilt back Speed at which they tilt back Angle at which they tilt back When wheel is resting change 'fine tune' pedal angle Bluetooth password Rename KS device Option of Larger pedal options Set voice prompts as off on default can be turned on through app Headlights brighter headlight preferable Settings for flash options of light Firmware updates not to consume too much power MAJOR CHANGE FOR REDUCED SPEED NEEDED
  15. Hello to all KS owners&lovers and not only I have one more week before separation with my lovely generic EUC. An eager nephew wants to buy it from me...he learned to ride it in less than an hour and naturally fall in love with it I'm following the path of many of you to start with a cheap generic one as a test and after that considering to buy the "real deal". This forum is a precious source of information for EUC connected issues and I was quite aware since the beginning which brand has the best for me technical features - KS. But I spent quite a time glued to the screen with the picture of Inmotion V5. Also at some point I considered buying IPS Zero...all in all I feel like I prefer that round shape as it looks more futuristic and far away from any kind of vehicle. But the passion from the outside look is one thing, my cold male logic mind is speaking something else. While I cannot afford to buy sport car, I can satisfy those entertainment (and not only) needs with the most powerful EUC - KS 800W. Thanks to @Jason McNeil I learned that KS are the most reseller/client responsive company who pay attention and take actions to improve their product. I think that such a company deserves honor and award in the form of more client's money Thanks to such honest distributors as Jason and @KaleOsaurusRex we are familiar with so many details about KS developments. Here I would like to express my special appreciations to @esaj His overall forum contribution is immense and knowing that this is for free I'm asking myself - how such guys could manage their time schedule working something else for a living and doing such a great work just for free. One answer that come across my mind is that such talented men are making enough for living only using one or two of their skills...the rest is for fun and self-actualization Many thanks to the forum contributors concerning KS reviews and issues - @John Eucist @Cloud @Henrik Olsen.....all. My EUC choice is KS 14C 800W, the bigger the better battery, preferably white color like the one that @Michael Vu shows us very well here: Now, after I finally decided the brand and the model, next stage is where to buy it from. For the "real deal" EUC I would definitely prefer to have a warranty and after sales customer support. For now, I'm considering the options to connect with the manufacturer in China (obviously after their holidays), or from Netherlands, France...I'm not sure and would appreciate advices and recommendations. All the best! added...just have seen all black version wich I also liked
  16. Hey guys I'm thinking of upgrading my ninebot to a ks16. Just wanted to hear some of y'all expirence with the ks16. Some things you like or dislike, any malfunctions etc.
  17. I'm looking to purchase a KS 18 with 800w power and with either 680wh or 820wh whichever one has a better price. It's been hard to locate sellers to who sells these since they arent as popular as the Ninebot One E+ Model. I need a seller that can ship to North America preferably Canada but if not the US is fine as well. Does anyone have any trusty sellers that they would like to suggest me getting from? Thanks!
  18. Hi, I'd like to pose a question to those familiar with or have technical expertise on motor/battery engineering - while the "official" word is that KS units do not cut off when pressed past their speed max/battery output, has anyone tested this theory? When I asked GW about their lack of this feature, per the GW rep, there is no such thing as an EU that does not cutoff after exceeding max speed/battery output. While the pedal-rising feature may discourage further pursuit of higher speeds, it doesn't guarantee the KS units have a smart feature built in to prevent cutoff. I just want to clear up any misinformation that may be present - currently what I have to go off of is GW rep vs KS rep but we all know that testing it is the only true way to find out - or thru understanding how these motors/batteries work. Per GW rep, the new units will have an optional pedal-rising feature selected via their app - this was intentionally done for a couple reasons: in a situation where high speeds are reached and a cutoff is imminent, flat pedals are actually better than rising pedals for a user to bail. Either way, it won't be pretty but the idea is that should your feet be in an angle due to rising pedals, you can't jump off. Another reason: if you practice safe driving near the max speeds, you don't have to worry about the annoyance of the rising pedals. Having the option I think seems the best of both worlds. Not saying that beeping isn't annoying, bc we know it sure is!
×
×
  • Create New...