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Showing results for tags 'repair'.
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Just finished my ride and went to the charger, rolling it "on" with my hands. there was a small pile of clothes in the path, I roll over a pair of sweatpants and they get sucked into the back of the wheel and I hear a revving sound and it notifies me, "overload, please get off" I frantically try to turn it off. I takes me a second but I turn it off. I pull out the pants and try to turn it back on to see if I hurt it, it doesn't turn on. I plug in into the charger and it reads two bars (it's at 38%) and I attempt to try it again. the battery lights up and the sounds indicate a start up but instantly cuts out. it wont do this process unless in plug it in again. I tried a factory reset but had no luck. I'm pretty new to the hobby so my knowledge of the actual wheel and it's mechanism is pretty weak. if anyone has a suggestion or hopefully a solution I would much appreciate.
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I left my v12 at ~97V for approx two weeks. I recently turned it on to check the battery and the wheel gave me a battery fault warning. One pack seems to have died? The wheel turns on and tilts back due to the fault error. I've always charged my wheels a few hours over for balancing. inmotion app says one battery is disabled. I attached a screenshot. i will open up the wheel to test the voltage for each pack. Just wanted to see if anyone has an idea what this problem might be. I haven't had any issues with the battery before and there is ~1600 miles on this v2 control board. ~~~Update 3/11~~~ I got the wheel up and running. New battery from ewheels. I followed the step in the video below to check voltage of the pack. If it doesn't work, bms is dead I guess. When I plugged in the xt connector, it did create a spark which likely because the cables were charged(?). Otherwise, you can't read the voltage. I unplugged speakers and charged one pack up to get close to the new pack.Without unplugging the speaker, it will cause the alarm to continuously go off, but I'm not sure if accepting the warning on the screen can turn it off. Overall, it was not too bad for battery swap. I did charge the single pack outside just in case. The new battery pack had better wire management with a sleeve. Thanks all for joining this thread and all the help provided.
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So mid-ride today, wheel all of a sudden decides to have a single quick "hitch" when applying quick hard-ish bursts (mild-hard to hard-hard), either accelerating or braking. So routine moderate-hard carving would cause it, anytime I would gas or brake quickly not really leaning in that hard. And it's not the type of pressure I'm applying that would even come close to a cut-out. So I'm not pushing it gas-wise when describing this. And the hitch is a single quick sound and feel, that doesn't effect performance other than it makes me nervous, and that it might be a precursor of a bigger problem..? It feels like the wheel gives out for a fraction of a second initially but never fails, again gassing or braking. The way it came on was this. Had ridden 30 minutes, then had to pause for 30 mins while an oar boat had to pass through the canal. Chopped it up with a local fisherman on the pier getting drunk and sunburnt, with the wheel powered on the whole time. Then proceeded to roll out, 10 minutes later the blacktop started to have some deeper cracks in it, and I popped a few of them and then a couple speed bumps nothing serious. Then the issue seemed to start around that time, but it may have been right before that area where I might've just mistook the issue as rolling over some random small rocks or pebbles idk. Possible causes. My rider weight is 220 with gear, and the last few rides I'd been playing with medium-mode. I've always used hard mode except on trails, but I'm on blacktop 80% of the time anyways. Lately, been using medium for a more comfortable and smoother ride. The other cause of this might be that I've been practicing a lot over the last couple months trying to rock back and forth in a tighter and tighter area and for longer periods of time, can rock non-stop now YAY.. Any ideas on what this could be? And could my practicing rocking back and forth a lot lately have caused this? Or is it more to do with hitting cracks and small potholes at my weight? It's a 1yr old wheel without a tremendous amount of miles on it, and feel I've treated it good for the most part. Please help..
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I bought the InMotion V8F a couple of months ago and have really enjoyed learning to ride. I've already put nearly 300 miles on it. When I was first learning to ride, I bailed at around 18-20 mph when it was wobbling hard and I didn't know how to stop it. It ended up smashing into a curb, and that crash has caused some minor cracks in both the inner and outer shells. I have since repaired the cracks with plastic putty, and I have also tightened the axle with some Loctite after it came loose and began to vibrate. Now, whenever I lean the wheel to the left far enough (away from the control board side) it begins to vibrate, but not when upright or leaning right. I've made sure to tighten down everything pretty well, and I'm still confused as to why it vibrates only when leaning to one side. It's more of a nuisance than anything, but if anyone has any suggestions on how to fix this annoyance, let me know.
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Hi, I have went down 4 steps of stairs but I Think I might overleaned it a little bit and the wheel just went down. The crash was so "smooth" that I didn't even fall but when I went to turn it on it just didn't want to only after a few minutes it would beep when trying to turn it on but unfourtunately it didn't actually turned on. Any thoughts on what might be the problem here? Could it be just a fuse? If so what fuse is it? Just a 30A fuse? Here is a video of it(here the leds didn't blink red): https://streamable.com/qbrv37 Thanks -
Mods and repairs on my Rockwheel GT16 - restoration 2021
s.m. posted a topic in Mods, Repairs, & DIY
Nobody seems to ride the GT16 these days - I do. Short version: These two pictures show the same EUC-shell before and after. This is the continuation from repairs-and-mods-on-my-gt16 The last bigger crash caused one broken pedal (fell off when coming home) and a cracked shell plus a bulged motor cover that led to a left-right slipping axle. Me ? No damage - I was sliding maybe 10m from one big puddle to another all protectors where under my clothing, no asphalt. After arriving at home (YES by wheel) I moved my cloth to the trash bin directly because of the 360° dirt and all protectors were visible. I would say 'no blood = no accident' I decided to not fix it quick and dirty nor to make any compromises. I started with fixing the shell by using a smell less 2K product that I use for filling and also for bonding. When I need more flexibility I just use a bit less hardener while with more hardener it results in an woodlike compound that can be sawed, sanded or drilled like wood without being brittle. The crack was not small - I laminated a slightly bent screw without head as reinforcement and did the same with small metalplate on another crack (the green marking). The two years before reinforced screwholes survived - just one of the screws was slightly bent. TENAX® button mod: After making this cool "quick-open-the-hood-mod" with the button connectors I realized the broken pins on the bottom side. Rockwheel company is dead, so I do not even think about throwing away any part because something is cracked or broken - I decided to make a hook from 1.5mm steel plate and glued it on. I found an old trolley handle from anything and retofitted it for my GT16 since the old one was very outworn. Next step was the Motherboard compartment and wiring optimization - there was some mess I added a LED voltmeter for never ever having any questions regarding the voltage of my GT16. This is the outsourced Light part: The Motherboard does not deliver enough power for all the white LED lights. I used a relay switched by the original frontlights power. The relay switches a stepdown converter 84V to 12V/5A that delivers enough power for all the LED's instead. All parts ready to get coated and paint line is prepared: product mixing: I stored a little bit into a small tube together with some drops of thinner and no hardener for dipping future major scratches. Paintjob done: Assembly of high quality easy-running bearings and new tire: Forgot to make the pressing plates from 4mm steel, so ... Then reassembling board and shell. the wiring was a very tricky job, I used surgery-tools which made it much easier. I made the motor cable shorter and added a micro-USB plug corresponding to the new board-sided USB-socket I added before. Now everything possible is reinforced, optimized and in superb condition, there's nothing more to do, I think - maybe 100V-mod or 21700 upgrade. The procedure of pulling the Motor is outstanding easy in the world of EUC's now: I open the sidecovers without tools and then remove 4 allen screws plus 4 other under the footplates - this is easy done in 2 minutes. After pulling the motorcable and the usb-hallsensor plug I can pull off the motor and vice versa. There is only one little thing that is not done, yet - but this will be added soon to make it perfect: optimized toolbox and spare tube-pocket inside the wheel, of course. -
I thought it would be nice to have thread on guides that can assist you when you have a problem with Inmotion V11. So I hope if you have a link or video or guide you can share that this is a place to make it visual. I will shave a place where I found some nice made PDF. Unfortunately they are in French. But they are very nice made. https://www.inmotion-france.fr/guides From here you have guides for pedal change and tire/motor change. Now I am personally seeking a guide on how to change a fully assembled drive board on both my V11s. I hope someone can assist me so I can be prepared once I get the parts that are in shipping now.
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Does anyone know how to disassemble the inMotion v8? What kind of screwdriver? I already removed the side covers and the battery pack. But I need to get properly under the hood and separate the two plastic shell halves. This is so that I can reinstall the power button and leds that have fallen out of their socket. Have a look at picture for illustration of the damage and the screw I need to open. Thanks for any help! Now for a quick crash report... I have about 400km under my belt, been riding for half a year and this is my second unicycle (first was a inmotion v3+). I've done my share of "learning crashes" and even over-leaned once (I think that's what happened). This time something different happened. I was driving off a low curb (10cm?) on my way to work - the same curb that I've been driving off every morning for the last half year. This time however, once I touched ground the whole unicycle started shaking back and forth. Like it was shifting back and forward and not knowing whether to accelerate or slow down. Causing a pretty violent vibration. As I was in a slope the unicycle started to gain speed and shake more & more. Then I decided to jump off and rather have the unicycle crash without me. The unicycle started bouncing and rotating the whole body around the wheel taking turns smashing the top handle into the ground or the actual wheel. Quite spectacular. No children were hurt. Plastic broke and things moved around inside. I've been taking the subway in the mornings for a week now and am not sure whether being packed in the Tokyo subway or not being able to drive is worst. Either way; I need to fix it. Alternatively; do I buy an GotWay ACM 16? :-D Thanks in advance
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Hi all, I have ordered 14D controller and the battery packs from ewheels. But when I try to install, the motor is not getting engaged. The controller is beeping. Also I checked the motor connection cables several times. Attaching the video regarding the same. Any help is highly appreciated. KS 14D.mp4 Adding another video.... KS 14d_2.mp4 -
Hello, Today a dumped hard my EUC, noticed something on the rear was of, wider than before so I removed the cover. Image: It turns on, lights OK, wheel spin and its ridable but its rub with something, and the volumen is now way lower. Is there any easy fix for this or should I just look for professionals? Thanks.
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So after 4k miles I finally managed to blow a little hole in my tire. This appears to maybe be something that I could patch up without taking off the wheel but I would love any suggestions. I prefer not to take this thing apart. On a side note if anyone's interested in a functional Z10 with wheel issues for a low price I would be willing to sell it as I have another wheel now. The rim is slightly dented from hitting a couple heavy bumps but the wheel is fully functional. DM me if you're interested in more details. I'm in Seattle.
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Hello all guys.Here you can clearly look into the video and learn how to disassemable for your GT16.
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HI every one I have a problem with my ks 18xl when i brake and accelerate it strongely viber i've change a motor but unfortunately it viber again so I've disassembly again and I saw the internal shall damaged any one konw were I can find a new pair of internal shell? thank u in advance R.
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I got a monowheel secondhand, it had no battery. I put a battery together myself and the EUC started working, it had an error code, I think it was 4 green Binks and 2 red or the other way around. It also had a very annoying buzzer which I disconnected. It all worked for me and I had a lot of fun with it. A few days ago I crashed and then the EUC went crazy, after that it started jerking going back and forward, jerking a lot, not rideable. It did that for a minute, I tried restarting it and eventually it became normal again. I have used it a few times after that and it was fine, but today it when back into jerking mode, i opened it up to see if I could find a problem but I found nothing. I would love some advice how I can fix it. I don't know much about it. It says IPS on the wheel. The company that sold it here is Sweden doesn't exist anymore. It has a 12 cells li ion battery, it's maximum 10 km/h I think. Pictures https://ibb.co/zsrnkGR https://ibb.co/VWjXVy1 https://ibb.co/cCSgfjK https://ibb.co/YR733bG https://ibb.co/x8CCRW7 https://ibb.co/7WsKTGV
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New to the forum as well as the EUC world. I just purchased my first EUC the mten3 and it arrived today. I am in the process of learning to ride and understanding my wheel. I am having a difficult time figuring out why the headlight keeps coming back on after I shut my wheel down completely. I shut the wheel down and everything looks fine than approximately 10-20 minutes later it is back on at a very low intensity but it is on. Any insight on this would be greatly appreciated.
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Where to buy Kingsong 18XL batteries?, should also be shipped to Finland.
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Hi All, Sorry if this addressed somewhere else. I just started with EUC about a month ago and am obsessed. I upgraded from the KS14d to the MSX and was loving the transition. 2 weeks in some dude on a bike hardcore takes me out and sends my new MSX tumbling end over end. I was able to ride it home but now the body isn't lining up (concerned about moisture and debris getting in there), does anyone know where I can get this fixed in NYC? Eager to get back out on the road and hoping to resolve this ASAP without needing to buy another one. Total newbie in this world, so any help is greatly appreciated. Best, Jordan
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Suggestions very welcome. I'd appreciate anything which helps me get my S8 back up and working. I bought it Sep. 6, 2019 from an eBay seller who said I should try the Airwheel.net site. The bump at a curb I gave my Airwheel S8 - which killed it - ten days ago may or may not be covered under their warranty, but I can't get any response from Airwheel.net, and I have tried the business office (business@airwheel.net), support (after-sale@airwheel.net, and no, it isn't after-saleS), and the sales/distributor contact button. I'm keeping screenshots, and have been trying for several days at all different times, as the contact form says, over and over, Does anyone know how to buy the board? The charging and batteries seem fine. I have the eBay SquareTrade protection plan, but it doesn't kick in unless the repair isn't covered by the warranty. I think if Airwheel said the warranty didn't cover this 'accident' then I could get SquareTrade to do its backup. The warranty card says 'Failure is caused by user improper safekeeping or ACCIDENTS.' Dialing the phone number on the site ( 321 061 3324, with or without anything preceding it) tells me, "You are not able to make calls to this number." (Area code 321 is Brevard County, FL, where Cape Canaveral is - the 'countdown county'). A search of other sources found that 321 is also used by Satcom Direct, which provides global satellite links: They may not even exit still, as their 'news' only goes to 2012. Thanks. -
I'm new to this kind of project. I created a battery pack with 3x3.7v lithium cell and i connected it to a dc-dc step down buck converter and a while ago its working fine i can charge my phone with it but after a few hours it started acting as what you can see in the video. The USB indicator light is not running or it not stable. So Please if anyone can help me . I would really appreciate it. Thank you Very much.
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... sorry for dragging my feet on this last vid. Turns out teardown vids are really tough to try to make not boring *smh....
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Hey everyone I've been a lurker for a long time around this website picking up what i can for my new love in the EUCs and i picked up a Zipwheel 16" as my first wheel back last year and have used it for about 5 miles daily up until last month when i was involved in a RTC with a speeding motorist i managed to get out the way but i was unable to get the wheel out in time and it was launched 15ft up the road cracking the case open and throwing the battery. I have since tested the wheel and it appears both the motor and the controller by some miracle survived undamaged as the case seems to have withstood the impact although is now in a sorry state and needs replacing, however the battery although worked for the tests didn't seem to fair as well its landing appears to have damaged something on the BMS PCB (Picture) and being that i don't know what its for i haven't dared to try and charge it for my lack of knowledge in batteries and things i've read about them exploding or catching fire and seeing i have my baby girl in the house wouldn't risk it without seeking advice from someone who knows these things. I have since been without my wheel i have ordered a new battery but i would like to either repair the PCB in this battery or replace it as all the cells appear to be completely undamaged. This being the case i searched online for the same PCB so i could just swap them out but have have no luck in finding the board they used even seeing the model number on the front of it (A4-FL16s-DLC) didn't help me to source a replacement i have looked on aliexpress to see if i could find a different board to replace it with but i have no idea which ones would be suitable as i know they have ones for E-Bikes that would be dangerous on the unicycle, unexpected cutoffs and such and was wondering if any of you here may have had something similar or are more techy then myself who may be able to help me in sourcing a cost effective replacement board as i would hate to see these cells wasted Thank you all in advance
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Selling a used Rockwheel 14 for parts or repair. Bought it recently and turned out it didn't work. Opened it up and looks like the control board was fried. Also the battery is dead. Asking $100 net. Buyer pays actual shipping from Chicago, IL. Feel free to ask any questions. Thanks.
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If anyone can shed some light on this I'd be most appreciative. I tore down my IPS Zero 260 because it simply wouldn't charge anymore. This, after a few stages of degrading performance (e.g. a one-off cutout at low speed, limited range, erroneous low battery warning, wouldn't charge past 80% or so, etc.). These occurred over a period of a few months of daily use. Thinking that I had bad cells (I don't know, just guessing) I decided to remove the battery pack and get an estimate to build a new one. I know it'll be tough to afford that but I hate being without my EUC. As I got into it I also checked all the connections and wires for any sign of shorts. Finding no serious wiring issues I decided to look at the board and this is what I found (see pics). Link to full resolution pics in my Google drive: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1ML7ZwkBCOBkzBhUFISRJnN_qxOSg1ZkY I'm certainly no expert but it doesn't look good to me. Could the corrosion and water damage seen in the pics be the cause of all my issues? Replacing the batteries will likely be prohibitive but a board repaired might be doable. But, I'd hate to do a board repair only to find out I've not solved the problems and that I'll still need batteries. Any thoughts? Also, if you know of anyone who could do the work please give recommendations. I'm in south Orange County CA. -
Hi all, I recently bought a used Solowheel Xtreme. Rode it for about 20 minutes, then sparks came out of it and it stopped running. Took it apart to find that the metal snapped where one of the pedals (crank arm) is supposed to attach to the axle. The main thick cable (I assume to motor cable) also got cut since it goes through the crank arm. I am confident I can rewire the thick cable, but to do that it seems I have to get inside the motor. To get inside the motor, I would probably either have to remove the crank that is still attached to the axle, or possibly remove the material on the side of the wheel. Anyone know how to do this? Also, anyone know of a source for a new axle/crank assembly? It looks like the Solowheel Xtreme is not manufactured any longer. Attaching photos of what the damage looks like. -
Dear All, Please help me find a solution for my InMotion V10 problem. It enters in a trepidation mode each time I try to move it by the handle and also when riding it on low speeds (like when turning and starting the ride) I contacted also In motion service but I dind not revive any reply (except the automatic reply) See link of the video https://youtu.be/GbhRueyOMSo Thank you and relay apreciate any feedback and solution! InMotion V10 trepidation problem.3gp
