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Tawpie last won the day on October 16

Tawpie had the most liked content!

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About Tawpie

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    Veteran Member

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  • Location
    Seattle, WA
  • EUC
    KS16 FrankenX (1554WH XS), 67v MTen3, S18v2

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  1. Their CEO initially said something to the effect of "we'll never make a 30 mph wheel". Then came under marketing pressure and KS unwisely raised the advertised top speed of the 16X too close to the point where it wouldn't work (it didn't blow up, but it's not at all safe enough). I'm guessing that the V12 is pushing them to a 40 mph wheel and they're not eager to repeat the 16X safety misstep so they're designing in safety margin by going to 126V. 126V isn't a big step. It begs for better battery management, but the electronic parts are old and mature.
  2. I'm not nearly good enough to be considered a hard core off-roader, and I have near zero with unicycle suspension. But I would like to be able to set mine up properly for my weight... if I'm going to pay the range and weight penalty, it might as well work as it was intended. Hopefully we can source different springs without waiting too many months for our ships to come in.
  3. Agreed. I should have been more specific on that point. I was sharing my ah-ha that the brick lets you put the suspension into a known position so that when you pump to a certain psi the next time, it'll more closely match the setup you did before. Sitting on the wheel as EUCO recommends, works fine but you can't "reuse" your psi readings directly. Both techniques work, but will show different upper/positive chamber pressures for a given amount of sag. You still want to set the upper/positive pressure to achieve the desired sag—the brink helps you do this over and over pretty much the sam
  4. Turn the volume on your phone down... it's the master volume control. I don't think EUC World has separate volume controls for horn or voice messages.
  5. With lithium ion battery packs, the safety issue is not so much with the voltage as it is with the batteries themselves. The main thing you must avoid is shorting a battery since this can lead to rapid disassembly with loud report, possibly/usually followed by a difficult to extinguish fire. This applies for a single cell at 2.5-4.2V. I personally wouldn't let myself get across 100VDC... it might not be an issue but 60VDC is generally regarded as "use caution". I don't wear gloves or anything, but I am very very careful. I worked in an industry that charged (very special) capacitors to 20
  6. I'm into the way back time machine because I just got an S18 and am fiddling with the shock pressures and had an ah-ha moment. I'm usually on the short bus and am late to this game so all'y'all probably already know this. Using the brick helps you get consistent air pressure readings because it puts the suspension's air cylinders in a volumetric configuration that is fixed by the brick. What counts is how many air molecules you have stuffed into that volume and you must fix the volume in order for air pressure to be an indicator of the number of air molecules you have in there. The 160psi
  7. The TSG is very popular around here. Now that it's getting cooler some fogging challenges are popping up. It doesn't vent much.
  8. Tawpie


    I can only find the "who is occupying a berth", no queue. https://kentico.portoflosangeles.org/getmedia/3bc2c710-5783-4f92-a39f-ae9b167d5f1f/container-vessels-in-port I bet they keep the queue close to the vest... you get one when you get one.
  9. Update: the dealer suggested I pump up the top chamber "more". I had set it for 20 mm of sag (off road recommendation), and since I'm a bantam featherweight my lack of riding weight very well may require more pressure to keep the shock from hitting the internal mudguard on the rebound (I think, from the tone and location of the clunk, that it's coming from the hard plastic part that wraps the top of the tire). After resetting for about 10 mm sag, a quick ride+bouncing and the clunks are gone. I haven't tried dropping the top pressure to 20 mm sag see if the clunks come back and confirm that's
  10. +1 for sure. I overleaned hitting a crease in the pavement on my 67V at 14 mph, 46% battery. Once the battery goes down, so does your power margin. My fault entirely, but the MTen isn't a wheel for going places!
  11. You should be able to get a USED 16X for 1500USD, mine wouldn't bring that much. I haven't heard much good or bad about the T3 other than I've seen two new-in-box ones on the resale market. I don't know why. It might be a good option since nobody's complaining about them!
  12. This has a lot to do with weight of the shock though. For downhill, weight isn't an issue, have to grind your way to the top and people look to save grams. I'm a bit concerned as well, being a bantam flyweight (ok, I'm really a straw weight but I like bantam flyweight better). I've asked eWheels if they're looking at sources for lighter springs and they are looking. I'm desperately hoping "insufficient sag" isn't going to be a deal breaker for me... I don't want to have to switch to metal armor just to get my weight high enough.
  13. If you can find one, get a used 2020/21 16X. It ticks all the boxes. If you must buy new, an MCM5v2 would fit your needs... it's Gotway so the quality is Gotway, but there are very few problems reported with MCM5s. CAVEAT: I own a 16X and am heavily biased... there's no way I spent that much money on something I don't love!
  14. USA: eWheels. I can't say enough good about them. FedEx, not so much, but eWheels has been 100% totally worth their dealer markup. It's rare to be able to say that and pass the red face test.
  15. No kidding. But I guess a jockey can pilot a thoroughbred at 40 kph, and they're fairly wide. I thought they stuck a 2.125" tire on that it was so skinny.
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