meepmeepmayer

Is the tire pumped up to the appropriate pressure (as indicated on the tire)? Wheels can behave quite badly with too low tire pressure, and they often come with an empty tire. Maybe it's just that? Or maybe you just need to learn to trust the lean. EUCs work by following your center of gravity. Here's a simple test you can do: do the same stance you use to accelerate, just do it on the ground (no electric unicycle involved). Are you falling over forwards and need to take a step to catch you and not fall down? If not, this stance wouldn't actually accelerate you on the wheel. You would still be in "neutral". I find it unlikely tht some wheel setting is stopping you from riding. But who knows, it's maybe possible. Feel free to describe your problem in more detail if it persists. And welcome to the forum and the glorious world of EUCs

Wishlist: Waterproof. You should be able to clean a wheel with a garden hose. This also implies that riding in the rain can never cause a problem. So just a properly waterproofed wheel. I believe the best way is to achieve this is to put each battery pack and the board into its individual waterproof box (the box also acts as protection against crash damage). Then connect the boxes with sealed cables. The shell itself can be quite open, let air through for cooling, for aesthetic reasons, etc. This is better than having open, unprotected battery packs and board in a shell and trying to seal every hole of the shell in order to keep the water out. Thicker motor power cables. Must withstand 100A without getting hot. Make them as thick as possible. NO electric component other than the mosfets should ever be hot. If they are hot, they are too weak or small. Keep the big mosfets and have good cooling, or make electrical components even stronger. Do not put a lot of electric components and cables into a small space. Easy tire change. Better braking. The firmware should distinguish between accelerating and braking, and make the braking much stronger than the acceleration. Pedals high enough so they don't scrape the ground in curves and with uneven ground. The bottom corners of the shell must be high enough and not hit the ground. For example, Veteran Sherman and Begode RS show too low shell corners. If you hit a curb with low tire pressure, or ride offroad, the shell corners might hit the ground. Bigger battery = better

Putting the RS motors into the Nikola seems like a no-brainer. But it looks like Begode are focusing on the EX and Monster Pro first, so if this ever happens, it might take a while. Can you imagine the Nikola with the HT motor...

It's the same motor as in the MSX.

That's not true How can we improve on that? In concrete ways, if you have some...

@Gasmantle I understand what you mean. How to have low intensity posters and high intensity posters coexist, without putting off either group. I guess we mods could be stricter with offtopic (it's really hard to separate things some times when there are so many semi-tangents!) and chat-type discussions in threads that aren't strictly about that particular thing. Of course that's easier said than done. Maybe, if you're particularly unhappy with a topic (no old topics please, the damage is done, but in the future), you could report the post where it goes off the rails. Reports are always a good way to get our attention, doesn't have to be about something super big or bad, but anything. We're always happy about concrete ideas how we can make this forum better and especially more welcoming and inviting to new members. Question is just how to do that. It's sadly not easy. The recent forum reorganization with spreading out stuff into more forums was mostly about that - a better overview of what content is available, which should make it easier for everyone, but especially for new people. It isn't perfect, but I think it was an improvement.

It's better imho. Not perfect because it's easier to miss (ideal would be between title and uppermost post), but now it doesn't change the formatting. I would make it 5 or 10 pages. But not that important what that number is.

Do you guys have the option to "hide" (=remove) a topic you started? It used to be the case that hiding the first post removed the entire topic. Now the "hide" option is gone for the first post (still there for all the others). Is there any other option to hide your entire topic now? Or can you no longer do that? (We mods can, but how is it for normal member accounts?) It would be nice if someone made a topic in the testing forum and tried that (better there than accidentally removing a nice topic of yours). Thanks!

The (heated) discussion about riding inside stores has been split off.

I think you're on to something! Instead of primitive dumb foam blocks, maybe the manufacturers should start thinking about offering "serious" seat options with springs and a nice cushion etc as a sweet engineered extra in the future. Cool! (I also like how this beautifully shows the versatility made possible by the Sherman metal bars.)

Looks great! Clearly a link now. Agreed. The statistics are very cool and help get an overview of what happened. I especially like the "popular days" part for this purpose, to help find the important stuff. But it makes threads quite narrower, even the video thread Youtube embeds get squashed from their standard size on my 1080p screen. Is there a way to make the statistics box narrower maybe? Or maybe on top of a page (between title and the page's first post) instead of to the side? It's definitely cool, though, but gets annoying with time. I guess it automatically activates once a thread is long enough. Good idea!

Hmm links are now in the same color (standard black) as normal text. Look just like underlined text. Underlined Link I think a different color for links would be good, to distinguish them better. Can that be changed?

Indeed you did! I totally missed that.

Who sells the 1480Wh/1500Wh Tesla? I only knew that one (some?) Ali sellers have it (it's not an official model). And if you contact such a seller and tell him you'd like to buy just the batteries, there should be a good chance he is receptive to that. Maybe I'm totally outdated there who sells it and what is going on, sorryI can find only regular Teslas there.

That won't happen so quickly. A bit of (very rough) math: Not sure how well our battery cells age, but 5 year (minimum) lifespan shouldn't be an issue. The Tesla's range is about 40km with 1020Wh. You might notice a capacity loss after.... 200 charge cycles? 500? One charge cycle corresponds to charging and using the battery from 0% to 100% and back, so that would make 200*40km = 8000km range or 500*40km = 20000km range. People have wheels with 25000km and more on them. So when you get there, there will be much more modern and nicer and better and shinier wheels. You'll want one of those instead of upgrading the battery of your then old, outdated, banged up Tesla. The battery will probably the last thing to die off on your Tesla. Now if you just want to upgrade to more capacity regardless of your old battery's state, I'd contact the Ali seller who sells the 1480Wh Tesla and ask him to sell you just the two battery packs. Sellers only list some standard things, but often have other things (even entire wheels) available when you ask. - The upgrade is a bit involved (cutting away some small stringers in the shell to fit the bigger packs) and I would guess it is not at all cost-effective. Usually, replacing a battery is not worth it, and buying a brand new wheel (and possibly selling the old one) is much better. You get a newer wheel for the same price, essentially.

Not keeping the battery at 100% (or very low) for weeks and weeks on end is supposed to be good. A lot of people do it anyways and nothing too bad happens. Just charging to 100% isn't a problem. And you need to do it once in a while anyways (and then keep the charger in for a few hours), to balance the cells. Unbalanced cells do pose a risk for the battery and you. Don't stress too much about battery care. Just don't clearly abuse it. Use it and enjoy the wheel, nothing worse than not being at 100% when you would like to use your full range. - 55km range sounds about right for a 1600Wh type wheel in colder weather.

A suspension that can be switched off by "locking the cylinder" (like on the S18) might be a good compromise. I don't see myself ever not wanting suspension though. Either as an alternative way to build a suspension, or maybe just as a cheaper suspension-lite variant, I always thought you could replace the hard part between motor and metal tire rim with a ring of some soft material. Mechanically easy and unproblematic, cheap to build, still bouncy.

Ist 3-pin XLR das selbe wie GX12-3? Und musst halt schauen dass die Pinbelegung zum Inmotion passt.

Looking forward to see your description of your very first thoughts when you lift the Sherman out of its box

Return it/have ewheels fix it. Not your job! Too much work for a brand new wheel. Doesn't look like a firmware fluke any longer, just the standard hall sensor failure (probably just the wires but I guess they are going to replace the motor anyways). (You can try the wiggle thing to see if you can find a loose connection, but that costs time and ewheels has to fix it anyways, so might be pointless other than to satisfy your curiosity.) I'm not 101% sure, but from what was said here somewhere, the hall sensors are only utilized at low speeds for fine control. And I never heard of a single crash due to hall sensor failure. It's only hall beeps after the wheel has been used and someone wants to start to ride again, and presumably not all hall sensors (or rather their brittle cables) died in the mean downtime.

Now that you mention it... I think so (sorry I'm too old and forget everthing). Is the offset tire noticable during riding? Or just during the wheel inspection?

3,5A Ladegerät: https://eunicycles.eu/en/chargers/116-fast-charger-300w-inmotion-v10f.html Falls du Lustr hast - mit dem Ding haste eine schöne Anzeige und kannst zusätzlich dein normales Ladegerät anschließen, für insgesamt 5A (1,5+3,5=5): https://eunicycles.eu/en/home/203-chargeman-inmotion-84v.html Gibt sicher auch ein 5A Gerät irgendwo direkt (Ali?), aber ich weiss nicht wo.

A strap will be distracting during learning. Not being worried about the wheel falling over and just letting it fall while running off relaxedly is the best way in my opinion. Grass is a terrible surface to learn on. Pavement is much better. You can use anything for padding, maybe just a lot of cardboard and duct tape (gorilla tape), or those foam pieces (yoga mat is a great idea)... anything really. Do not forget the underside of the pedals, that can get scratched and dented pretty badly, too. After two weeks or so, the padding can go. Too bad there's no EUC bodyguard for the Sherman (yet), it would be perfect. You got a great wheel, and the very first ride attempt outside will be the most dangerous for it. So be prepared

Ich könnte mir vorstellen (weiss es aber nicht!) dass die zum günstigeren Preis die Modelle vom ersten Produktionsgang sind. Die haben ein paar Macken (Genaueres musste im Inmotion-Forum erfragen, ich weiss es nicht, aber ich glaube z.B. am "Sattel" sind paar Plastikdinger leicht abgebrochen und wurden durch Metall ersetzt) die im den folgenden Batches beseitigt wurden. Frag beim Händler nach wie es in der Richtung aussieht. Reine Spekulation meinerseits. Aber irgendwie muss man ja 300€ Unterschied erklären...

Don't forget to pad the wheel up like there's no tomorrow. Or you will have an excellent but very scratched up wheel after the first day