Jump to content

travsformation

Moderators
  • Content Count

    1,127
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

travsformation last won the day on February 4

travsformation had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1,807 Excellent

About travsformation

Profile Information

  • Location
    Barcelona, Spain
  • EUC
    KS16X, KS18XL, IM-V8

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I learned on the legacy 2000W 18XL, and am glad I didn't have the extra torque that comes with FW 2.0... The way it accelerates and how quickly and effortlessly it reaches top speed, I probably would have hurt myself if I'd had that kind of torque during my over confidence stage... I(although I'm sure others have more common sense than I do 😅) Personally, I'd stick with your current firmware for a while, I think it's gentler and better suited for learning. Then further down the road, when you're more experienced, you'll get a "free upgrade" that'll make it feel like a brand new wheel, as if you'd just turbo-charged it 😉
  2. Hi and welcome! Don't worry, 102º F is far from warm for an EUC; if you're getting that kind of temperature with ambient temps. of 70º F and pushing it hard, that's actually a very cool-running wheel, so nothing to worry about. If it were 102º Celsius, on the other hand, that would be another story altogether involving a fire extinguisher and headlines in the local news My temperature alarm on the 18XL is set to 65º C / 149º F, and I've only hit it a couple of times, riding at 3 PM in mid-August BTW, KS18XL....excellent choice! I'd say go for it but a lot of NYC riders prefers Gotways because of the top speed...But you can't go wrong with either one!
  3. Go for it! And sorry for the rant, I was trying to compensate for my bias of telling everyone to buy a performance wheel
  4. You could do that, yeah, just make sure under "log settings", "start logging automatically", "upload logs" & "create tours" are checked But that still doesn't solve the mystery of why Relive did get accurate GPS info while EUC World didn't. I borrowed my girlfriend's phone (Samsung) so I get give you the specific Samsung route to the pertinent settings: Settings >> Apps >> EUC World >> Battery >> Make sure "Allow background use" is active Settings >> Apps >> EUC World >> Battery >> Optimize battery use >> All (top) >> EUC World >> Make sure it's unchecked Maybe this will help
  5. Go to settings > apps > look for EUC World and make sure there is no battery optimization enabled, so it doesn't put the app to sleep in the background. That's generally the cause of issues of this sort. On the other hand, once you've got EUC World working correctly, you can connect euc.world to Relive, so you don't have to run both apps at the same time, only EUC World, which will make the battery drain much less. To do so, go to euc.world > your username (the menu first if accessing from a phone) > Profile > Integration > Connect with relive
  6. Welcome to the forum! The Tesla V2 is a good choice---plenty of torque so you won't have any issues with hill climbs, decent range, compact form factor, not too heavy, reasonably priced, the only caveat being it isn't great for off-roading (it isn't terrible either though). But for 100 kg / 1.86m, I personally think it would be better to go with a bigger battery so you have more safety margin. If the size and weight of the EUC don't matter to you (you don't plan on carrying it / picking it up much, or don't live in a 4th-floor apartment with no elevator hehe), and you're considering the MSX, a powerful 18" performance wheel is probably the safest bet. Of course, everything depends on your budget also... In that field, the 84v MSX is the most affordable option of the lot, but probably not the most comfortable, maneuverable or "user-friendly"---the Kingsong 18L is a better all-rounder (or the 18XL if you want more range). You could also go for a Gotway Nikola, with its 3" wide, 16" diameter tire, which is very good for off-roading. Do bear in mind that the wheels I'm suggesting are "performance wheels" and not cheap, so it depends on your budget, and how committed you are to the world of EUCs (whether you want to spend up to/over 2K on a wheel), but they are also the best bet in terms of safety for a rider your height and weight, as they have power and battery capacity to spare, making sure you won't unexpectedly find yourself face-first on the floor because it was using it all up on getting you up a hill and ended up without enough reserves to keep you balanced. That being said, I'm not objective and am admittedly biased towards high-end wheels: I learned on a brand-new, 900€ Inmotion V8 (which I'm now selling) and outgrew it in a matter of a few weeks, then bought a KS18XL and wouldn't go back to a lower-powered, lower-range wheel for anything in the world. Ideally, I wish I'd been wiser and either started with a cheap, 2nd hand wheel, like you did, or done more research and gone straight for a wheel I wouldn't outgrow anytime soon (like the KS18XL). In retrospect...it would have been hard to justify to myself buying a 2500€ EUC that I didn't know whether I'd be able to learn to ride, but on the other hand, back when I bought the V8 I had no idea how hooked I'd get on riding, and how much of a passion, obsession and lifestyle change it would entail. A range of 30 km sounded great before I started riding! Now I know that realistically, that's more like 25 km, which will only give me 12.5 km range towards a destination, and 12.5 km to get back, which at the V8's maximum safe speed of 25 km/h, is only an hour of riding... When I bought the V8, it never would have crossed my mind that 25 km/h would feel too slow either (I don't advise riding at/near a wheel's max speed for safety reasons) or that I'd consider a 40 km tour to be "an afternoon ride". Which is why I think a lot of us wheel addicts, when suggesting purchases to new riders or folks wanting to upgrade to a new wheel, see an opportunity of traveling back into the past and nudging you to do what we wish we'd done from the beginning, and going straight for a wheel that won't pose any kind of limitation anytime soon, whether it's speed or range-wise (as in, your body will become sore and exhausted before you run out of battery) For an abundance of useful info on wheels like the ones I've suggested, check out the thread below: But in the end, it's up to you to know how "committed" you are to EUCing, how much spare time you have to ride, how important things like range and top speed are to you, what your budget is and how much you want to spend, etc. The more information you can give, the better we can help you choose the right wheel for you Maybe someone more objective than myself will pop by this thread and provide some less biased advice But since you're not a small guy (@Mike Sacristan is a good example of a light rider) and safety is an important consideration, the more powerful the wheel and the bigger the battery, the more safety margin you'll have, so based on that (and your desire for off-roading), I'm guessing I won't be the only one suggesting performance wheels like the MSX, 18(X)L or the Nikola... P.S. Don't feel old, 47 is young for this forum! P.P.S. And you thought your post was long...
  7. I can't speak for speed, but I had to apply -18% distance correction on FW 1.13; since 2.0, with 0% correction I'm only getting small variations (+200-300m) in 15-ish km tours between GPS distance and the distance reported by the wheel (the higher number being wheel-reported, but within what I reckon can be considered a reasonable difference accounting for the carving the GPS fails to register). I can't say the same for speed though: Wheel speed in my euc.world charts is consistently higher than GPS speed, but I can't give you an exact figure. It doesn't feel like anything's changed though, but I can say there's a subjectively (quite) noticeable difference with the 16X, which seems to report much lower (realistic) speeds than the 18XL
  8. Awesome progress! Based on your past experience with balance sports, I had a feeling you'd pick up on this pretty quickly! So you're starting to get a sense of just how fun this is going to be then...Just wait 'til it fully clicks, you're in for a very pleasant surprise! As is your wife when she finds out how eager you are to hop on the wheel! My girlfriend would send me grocery shopping (15 km round trip), then when I'd get back, she'd forgotten to add butter (or something) to the shopping list, and I'd happily go back! For tighter turns, and seeing your mindset, the approach I used might be helpful to you: analyze the bio-mechanics, I have a feeling it'll come to you quite intuitively. What are you instinctively doing when you turn? If you break down the process, there's leaning in the direction you want to turn (like high-speed MC turns), even if subtly; there's shifting weight from one pedal to the other, flexing the opposite knee, and there's "twisting" the wheel on the vertical axis, which is accomplished with the hips/torso (which follow where you point your shoulders). Ride "normally", as you have been doing, then "deconstruct" what you're doing by trying to make yourself aware of each one of these "separate" techniques used for turning (you're probably already applying several of them at the same time unconsciously). Then consciously try broad turns using each of these different methods separately, each one of them for a little while, to get a feel for what each of them involves, and how it affects the turn. You'll probably find that you can't lean without shifting your weight, for instance. Each person is different and has a different way of learning, but I found that by doing this, I was able to see the "chain" of how these different "techniques" (or cogs within a larger process) all flow together. Once I understood that, I started consciously trying to use them in unison. Then I'd go back to just riding for a while, without thinking about what I was doing, and after a while, I'd go back to consciously practicing these different techniques, then chaining them together. Having done plenty of balance sports, a lot of it came to me intuitively (which I think is your case too), but the analytical part in me also wanted to know the exact dynamics behind how things are achieved and understand them rationally so I could break them down and focus my practice on specific techniques (which, as an instructor, I imagine you're possibly also inclined to do). For me personally, the perfect combination was mixing intuition, instinct and rational analysis/training. The quickest progress came from striking the right balance...not enough analyzing and you get stuck/keep making the same mistakes/pick up bad habits; too much analysis and you end up overthinking it, which both hinders progress and takes away a lot of the fun I found that what worked best was a combination of "just ride" >> analyze >> conscious practice >> just ride, where you start off instinctively applying what you picked up the day before, do some conscious practice in the middle, and then go back to just riding, letting what you've learned sink in and become instinctive. I was always amazed at how something I'd just barely figured out how to do on the previous session would come to me automatically, with no effort whatsoever, on the next session. I hope the weather warms up so you can get longer rides in. Also remember not to push it too hard in one session or you'll end up too sore to ride the next day! (I know how hard it is not to get carried away, maybe the weather is actually doing you a favour) And as @ShanesPlanet said, I can already imagine you posting trail-riding videos in no time!
  9. Hi and welcome! To better assess which wheel is best for you, the distance of your daily commute and your approx. weight would be helpful.Also, what you plan on doing with the wheel (that small commute only or maybe also some recreational riding), what you mean by "some grass", whether you have any previous experience with EUCs and, of course, what your budget is
  10. I nearly had "Don't panic" embroidered on one side of my EUC bodyguard, and this on the other Soft settings is...well, as the name suggests, softer: when you accelerate, the pedals gently dip/tilt forward as you apply pressure, acceleration and braking are more gentle and gradual, meaning it's more forgiving in terms of how it processes acceleration and braking input, sparing you from accidental "bursts" of acceleration, which can be a hindrance when accidentally applied with the inner foot while learning to turn. The same goes for accidental overlean, accidental acceleration when hitting a bump, etc.; it gives you more slack in terms of responding more gently to the throttle (think of it as setting an automatic car's gearbox in "eco" or "comfort" mode as opposed "sport"). It also changes the dynamic of the ride. Some people find the soft mode more comfortable/easier to learn with (Kingsong refers to them as "Learner" [soft], "normal" [medium] and "Experienced" [hard]), others enjoy the overall "slinky feel" long after they've mastered riding (think of a slinky being pulled from the front end, and you an your EUC being at the rear end of the slinky: there's initially very little acceleration, and then suddenly, a spring-like pull as acceleration "catches up with you"). I personally never liked anything but the hard mode, even when learning: I prefer the immediate response of hard mode and the sense that I have finer and more precise control over acceleration. Try them all out and see what you feel the most comfortable with Same goes for tire pressure. Some people prefer the more "nervous", responsive feel that comes with higher pressures and feel that lower pressure makes it harder to turn and slow to respond, while others enjoy the more comfortable, laid-back "low-rider" mode and aren't at ease with the "squirrely" response that comes with higher pressures. Maybe you'll find 40 PSI easier than 45. It's just a matter of playing around with different variables and seeing which suit you better (and you preferences might change as your skills progress) Ouch...when those pedals getcha....
  11. If it weren't for her, I probably would have bought the whole "developed in partnership with orthopedic surgeons" and never been the wiser. But once she (patiently) explained the bio mechanics, the shortcoming (and potential risks) become pretty obvious... Wow, you're crazier than I thought! (The synthabeam flame-throwers should have been a hint though....) Did you actually do any riding like that? Yupp! Am working on the entire shoulder with resistance bands, but with special emphasis on the rotator cuffs. The only thing that's proving difficult is finding a sturdy anchor point to fix them to...I've already pulled off one doornob The only thing that seems to hold up OK is the balcony rail.... I'm going to make sure not to relay that last bit to her.... BTW, your wife's operation is tomorrow right? Wish her a smooth surgery and a swift recovery! And no setting the house on fire while she's bed-ridden !!!
  12. I do the same, I only use Insta360 Studio to reframe, then import the footage to Adobe Premiere Pro. But I happened to notice that when slowing footage down from the app as opposed to Premiere, for some reason it looks smoother. Too bad the InstaOne X doesn't allow for 60 fps at 5.7K, that would make for some buttery-smooth slow-mo footage. I still haven't tried 4K @ 50fps or 3K @ 100 fps, I'm curious to see how much of a quality drop there is when used to create normal (non-360) FullHD footage. I'm guessing that 3K @ 100 fps is going to half the quality, but 4K @ 50 fps is roughly a 30% drop in resolution...it might be worth the extra 20 fps in certain scenarios
×
×
  • Create New...