Tinkererboi

KS16X2B190907P055 Check your serial number for the batch date. If its later than mine it will come with 1.5 control board. Mine is the earliest batch that came out with 1.5 board already installed as far as I know

My thoughts exactly. I guess the more support the merrier. Do not think it matters where you are from. All the EUC users I know myself included only (rarely) test the limits of our devices in safe secluded areas where there are no other humans around. And if we feel the need to share what we learnt from the tests we do so privately. Glad to be part of a community that understands this well. I feel that there is still hope to protect the EUC community from the blanket ban as there are no known incidents of accidents or fires in Singapore so far. We hope to convince the government to remove EUCs and even Hoverboards from their umbrella classification of PMDs eventually due to how they are much more suited to co-existing with pedastrians as they take up no more standing space than a walking adult and can maintain balance even at elderly walking speeds.

As many of you know, Singapore's oppressive government have begun the clamp down on personal electric vehicles. E-scooters and mini e-bikes known as PMDs (personal mobility devices) have already been completely banned overnight on roads and footpaths. The Land Transport Authority has hired Auxillary police "officers" who prowl the streets arrogantly threatening anyone on any sort of wheeled vehicle. I myself have been harassed and treated with malice by a group of more than 10 of them while riding my 16x a measly 5km/h on a designated (25km/h) riding path for being too fast. Here is a guy that was kicked by one of those green vest-wearing legalized goons for riding his PMD on the road. The video shows a clear and nasty faceplant while the media painted a clearly misleading story claiming that the "officer" who had administered the kick had to be checked up at a hospital while the victim was merely treated for scrapes and bruises on his elbows and knees on-site. In night of these recent events, I find myself fearing for the safety and freedom of my fellow Singaporeans - EUC user or not. I plead with you, please help to sign our petition. The government has classified EUCs under the umbrella of a PMD device and is set to include us in the complete ban next year. Petition here

Thanks for sharing! I ride super tight trails and was always dreaming of smaller pedals to get more clearance but everyone told me it can't be done, the 16x pedals are custom fit. Will be getting a standard set of kingsong pedals for myself soon! In some sections the trail gets so tight my wheel stands itself up! HAHA

The pedal in question actually rubs against the shell at around a 45 degree fold. Starting to suspect the pedal hangers themselves are installed too close to the motor hub on the right side. In any case, its not really that big a deal so i'll just leave it be till the next time I have to open my shell.

So the pedals on the right side of my 16x has always been strangely sticky, requiring force to open unlike the left pedal which flops open like it should. No biggie, barely an inconvenience. I always thought I just had a faulty shell because my right side shell does not close fully at the bottom. Yesterday my replacement half of the shell came in, both inner and outer pieces. I tested it for fit before installing with the shell completely empty and what do you know, it does the exact same thing. Since I already had it I just went ahead and did the swap anyways, waterproofing the wheel along the way with more silicone, kapton tape to cover the switch panel and huge gap in the LED housing and finally a nice thick bead of black gasket maker where the control board meets the shell. (There was tons of dust all over the compartment so obviously the super thin EVA foam gasket did nothing) Post-reassembly with the new half shell installed, and the problem still exists. Does anyone have the same issue as well? Is there a part I should shave off to make the shell fit right? There was a bit under the switch panel that had to be nipped off with some sort of pincer tool in my original inner shell in order to get the switch panel to close properly, so I assume it would not be too far off to believe that the same has to be done somewhere in the bottom area of my shell to get it to close.

Agree with @Aneta. The satisfying growl of a powerful wheel feels and sounds very different from the shuddering sound heard here. If i were you I would try the following first before trying anything more invasive Grab the tyre in one hand and pedal in the other, wiggle and try looking for any play at all. There should be zero. Check for loose shell pillar screws.

I had that sound before, went away after tightening all the screws holding the pedal hangers to the shell. When the shell is not securely connected to the pedal hangers it jerks forward just a tiny bit when you accelerate and confuses the sensors which try to self correct in an endless loop leading to the vibration. Edit: remember it happens to the monster too, when axle shims are loose. Maybe try checking that as all gotways use shims to hold the hangers in.

My bad, I finally found the photos i took way back, and the board looks different than what i remembered. Did not take pics of the other side which had the 4 mosfets tho

Update for you @Gaz Bon Put about 200km on the new tyre, its just as grippy as on my GT16 as expected. Personally this is as knobby as i'll go, the tread really digs into mud and i see no need to lose range with a full knobby like the shinko. Gyro effect is completely non-existent, wheel runs perfectly true now with the new tyre, even when I let it free spin in the air until cutoff. Those who have tried this before know how the stock tyres will shake the bejeezus out of you if you did that. Finally hit the top speed, with ease I might add. The stock tyres were simply too wobbly for me beyond 40kph and it felt like the wheel wanted to fling me off when I exited turns at speed. Also has much less rolling resistance, which really helps the 16x feel lively as it should be. No longer have to crank the wheel hard to maintain top speed. All in all, I'm loving this super cheap tyre. Hope more users go this route so we can have the data needed to test my theory more thoroughly

@soundkite @Retrovertigo The problem with pebble classic and pebble steel watches are the low-quality screen connectors. I recommend first cleaning those contacts with contact cleaner or scrubbing gently with Zippo lighter fluid and a soft toothbrush before attempting the "add pressure fix". Also for potential pebbleheads in the future, try not to buy any other models except the pebble time and time steel, as those are the only ones built to last @Slashebeest I switch watchfaces all the time, but my current favourites are "phoenix big" and "phoenix too". How's your time steel holding up! Have bought 4 so far and most of them seem to lose tactile feedback in the top right button, though I figured how to fix that

Ever since picking up wheeling I have grown to love pebble watches and have built a small collection and cache of spare parts. These watches are awesome and I intend to use them for as long as I can keep them alive. Here a few pieces of my collection At this point I am certain that I have attempted every repair and maintainence possible on a pebble. Do ask away if you need any tips to keep your precious watch ticking. The most common repairs seem to be: - Dead battery - Stuck buttons

Here's a new one. Locktite eats plastic. Have seen disassembly videos and posts commenting that manufacturers did not use locktite and thus screws were working themselves loose over time so using some locktite when putting their wheels back together is a good idea. It isnt. Even the fumes alone can turn plastic brittle and shatter the surrounding area in as little as a day.

I use the seat as well. Its just amazingly comfortable to cruise around on and I always regret when I leave for a ride without it. It is bulky though, and can leave bruises on your inner shins when standing. Having padding like i do will completely eliminate that.

No idea, i've never seen it anywhere else before. You could try to google translate the whole page on chrome and buy from taobao though. There are options to pay shipment from their warehouse to you in advance and that's the end of your worries, or pay a second time after they are done consolidating your order, which is a little bit cheaper. Just be careful not to pick the sea shipping option (always the cheapest) or you will be waiting a long, long time before it arrives.