Tinkererboi

Thanks for sharing! I ride super tight trails and was always dreaming of smaller pedals to get more clearance but everyone told me it can't be done, the 16x pedals are custom fit. Will be getting a standard set of kingsong pedals for myself soon! In some sections the trail gets so tight my wheel stands itself up! HAHA

The pedal in question actually rubs against the shell at around a 45 degree fold. Starting to suspect the pedal hangers themselves are installed too close to the motor hub on the right side. In any case, its not really that big a deal so i'll just leave it be till the next time I have to open my shell.

So the pedals on the right side of my 16x has always been strangely sticky, requiring force to open unlike the left pedal which flops open like it should. No biggie, barely an inconvenience. I always thought I just had a faulty shell because my right side shell does not close fully at the bottom. Yesterday my replacement half of the shell came in, both inner and outer pieces. I tested it for fit before installing with the shell completely empty and what do you know, it does the exact same thing. Since I already had it I just went ahead and did the swap anyways, waterproofing the wheel along the way with more silicone, kapton tape to cover the switch panel and huge gap in the LED housing and finally a nice thick bead of black gasket maker where the control board meets the shell. (There was tons of dust all over the compartment so obviously the super thin EVA foam gasket did nothing) Post-reassembly with the new half shell installed, and the problem still exists. Does anyone have the same issue as well? Is there a part I should shave off to make the shell fit right? There was a bit under the switch panel that had to be nipped off with some sort of pincer tool in my original inner shell in order to get the switch panel to close properly, so I assume it would not be too far off to believe that the same has to be done somewhere in the bottom area of my shell to get it to close.

Agree with @Aneta. The satisfying growl of a powerful wheel feels and sounds very different from the shuddering sound heard here. If i were you I would try the following first before trying anything more invasive Grab the tyre in one hand and pedal in the other, wiggle and try looking for any play at all. There should be zero. Check for loose shell pillar screws.

I had that sound before, went away after tightening all the screws holding the pedal hangers to the shell. When the shell is not securely connected to the pedal hangers it jerks forward just a tiny bit when you accelerate and confuses the sensors which try to self correct in an endless loop leading to the vibration. Edit: remember it happens to the monster too, when axle shims are loose. Maybe try checking that as all gotways use shims to hold the hangers in.

My bad, I finally found the photos i took way back, and the board looks different than what i remembered. Did not take pics of the other side which had the 4 mosfets tho

Update for you @Gaz Bon Put about 200km on the new tyre, its just as grippy as on my GT16 as expected. Personally this is as knobby as i'll go, the tread really digs into mud and i see no need to lose range with a full knobby like the shinko. Gyro effect is completely non-existent, wheel runs perfectly true now with the new tyre, even when I let it free spin in the air until cutoff. Those who have tried this before know how the stock tyres will shake the bejeezus out of you if you did that. Finally hit the top speed, with ease I might add. The stock tyres were simply too wobbly for me beyond 40kph and it felt like the wheel wanted to fling me off when I exited turns at speed. Also has much less rolling resistance, which really helps the 16x feel lively as it should be. No longer have to crank the wheel hard to maintain top speed. All in all, I'm loving this super cheap tyre. Hope more users go this route so we can have the data needed to test my theory more thoroughly

@soundkite @Retrovertigo The problem with pebble classic and pebble steel watches are the low-quality screen connectors. I recommend first cleaning those contacts with contact cleaner or scrubbing gently with Zippo lighter fluid and a soft toothbrush before attempting the "add pressure fix". Also for potential pebbleheads in the future, try not to buy any other models except the pebble time and time steel, as those are the only ones built to last @Slashebeest I switch watchfaces all the time, but my current favourites are "phoenix big" and "phoenix too". How's your time steel holding up! Have bought 4 so far and most of them seem to lose tactile feedback in the top right button, though I figured how to fix that

Ever since picking up wheeling I have grown to love pebble watches and have built a small collection and cache of spare parts. These watches are awesome and I intend to use them for as long as I can keep them alive. Here a few pieces of my collection At this point I am certain that I have attempted every repair and maintainence possible on a pebble. Do ask away if you need any tips to keep your precious watch ticking. The most common repairs seem to be: - Dead battery - Stuck buttons

Here's a new one. Locktite eats plastic. Have seen disassembly videos and posts commenting that manufacturers did not use locktite and thus screws were working themselves loose over time so using some locktite when putting their wheels back together is a good idea. It isnt. Even the fumes alone can turn plastic brittle and shatter the surrounding area in as little as a day.

I use the seat as well. Its just amazingly comfortable to cruise around on and I always regret when I leave for a ride without it. It is bulky though, and can leave bruises on your inner shins when standing. Having padding like i do will completely eliminate that.

No idea, i've never seen it anywhere else before. You could try to google translate the whole page on chrome and buy from taobao though. There are options to pay shipment from their warehouse to you in advance and that's the end of your worries, or pay a second time after they are done consolidating your order, which is a little bit cheaper. Just be careful not to pick the sea shipping option (always the cheapest) or you will be waiting a long, long time before it arrives.

I'm even lighter than you, and both the 3 inch msx and 16x rides perfectly for me. If in doubt, the current 16x tyre (h-5167) is already close to perfect for almost every situation. I'm just looking for that extra little bit of grip in extreme mud, which is a rare encounter to begin with. No reinforcement for me as I like to carve way low and put my weight on the outer leg as I do so. I'm sure pressure on the inner leg during carving (the only way to get a 16x and z10 to budge) is just as safe with a large tyre but it's just preference really.

Agree with you on the Z10. Its looks cool but rides terribly. I think you might have misunderstood. Reinforced tyres, thicker tyres, overly-filled tyres and new tyres before breaking in all have more of a gyro effect, not less. The Z10 alone is an example of all of the above.

I think you hit the nail right on the head. Stiffness should be the correct term to use. I decided to test out the idea of cheapass tyres being less stiff and therefore having no gyro effect, and ordered this: https://m.tb.cn/h.eHJNWyt?sm=2ddb7b Its the same tyre I have in 2.5 Inch for my GT16 and grips like mad, mud or no mud. In fact i used to whine about it being too grippy as it prevents me from doing 180 degree flicks. For about 7usd, you probably can't go any lower. The rubber doesn't seem to last long as a consequence but i'm fine with it. Hell back when I used to mountain bike I had to pay more for race tyres that have these characteristics.