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houseofjob last won the day on November 3

houseofjob had the most liked content!

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About houseofjob

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    #MonsterV2 #NikolaPlus

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  1. yeah, when you get this big, you really need like 2 more nuts that's what she said, to make a small tight circle.
  2. King Song doesn't employ an axle nut, it's 2 hex screws on top that secure the top piece to the KS pedal arm, and they *usually* blue loctite these screws. KS pedal arm system: Gotway pedal arm system: If Gotway ever changes their mounting standard, like KS has done twice now for the XL & 16X pedals, you're screwed if you weld the nut. Sounds like you've never owned a Gotway Monster This is just a known issue, esp w/ v2 & v3 Monsters, since the increased size of the 22" wheel increases all the torque forces going on. Really screams for a multi-bolting system for the bigger Monster, ala how a car bolts on their rims.
  3. You have one of those $100K+ slow motion cameras that do 1Mfps? Speak for yourself. My motion is relatively no muscle at all, just body weight heel plant, body angle leverage, then let the wheel body fall and let gravity do its thing, rinse repeat. There are 360 degrees in a circular plane, not only front-back, left-right. By aiming for a mix of both (like 45 degree angles), you get the best of both: the forward vector force lean of front-back to engage the gyro, combined with the weight gravity of left-right so you don't have to muscle it or similar.
  4. A big part of this is admittedly my fault! Upon teaching my first "student" friend rider while shooting footage, I realized I myself did not fully understand exactly what I was doing and why it worked, as I was explaining everything wrong and he did not get it at first (hence, my earliest posts about this on these forums are probably wrong). Like many things, just because I know how to do it, doesn't mean I understood it enough to teach it; I'm hoping I understand better now, as my friend was eventually able to get it. Your skepticism is actually helpful, as this is partly why I'm taking my time making this video: I want to make sure my logic and demonstration is as bulletproof as I can get it. Dope, looking forward to seeing it and giving it a try!
  5. Hey, again, it's just based on what I've heard other guys do, not what I do or subscribe to. It's what I do, @Tishawn Fahie does (in slight variation), along with a couple other riders I've shown now. 🤷‍♂️Feel free to naysay all you want, doesn't really matter, we'll keep riding this way. Until I can get my video out, my written comments on here are really to give pointers to the more open-minded and interested riders.
  6. There must be a bigger reason than cost then that zero manufacturers (not DIY) don't use these motors. Yes, we all know they are 3rd party e-bike motors customized to spec, as developing a motor from the ground up is financially not possible for mom & pop, niche market EUC makers not named XiaoMi-backed Ninebot/Segway.
  7. Interesting. Is there any production non-motorcycle PEV using such motors? (and if so, please list) I'm not sure you can lump all EUC manufacturers under the same boat, as Gotway performance-wise is clearly a notch above the rest (whatever that means), as evidenced by the increased motor magnet width to 35mm in their 14" MCM5, per ecodrift's teardown report: Video plz
  8. I was referring to the guys who stand-squeeze the wheel body (often using pads), which I am not a proponent for due to the compromise in stability, reactivity from unexpected bumps.
  9. As usual, we agree to disagree. My argument is that the "big wheel, less torque" arguments are not describing the whole picture of what's going on for the Monster vs a smaller wheel (and yes, the bigger Monster has less proportional torque, but not nearly to the degree you are feeling, as that is just technique). It's not apples to apples when you size up that 16" EUC up to 22", but you don't size up the pedal length proportionally (same pedals for all Gotway sizes); you need the longer length on a bigger wheel diameter to exert the same proportional force input. Say, if you think the Monster has half as less torque than say the Nikola+, then my argument would be it's more like 1/4 less torque when you actually tap into it correctly (effort/muscle is nowhere in my argument). You realize Onyx is reporting 6,000 W Max/burst, not Nominal/average right? (see here and here) Plus, apparently it's rated 6kW, but actually 5,400 W real world Max/burst, which puts it about inline with our 2kW nominal EUC motors statistics; it's all the same parts basically. Onyx didn't magically double current motor tech. Plus, again, we are not e-bikes, different paradigm, you can't just paste and apply those numbers verbatim to the EUC case.
  10. (fyi, it all applies, regardless of wheel model IMHO, just smaller wheels lend themselves to less strict technique/"work") Ah yes, you subscribe to this ground kick-start thing, but I'm not fully convinced how effective it is on EUC's that are not free to roll and momentum, ala a manual skateboard, etc. Pressure on the pedal is pressure on the pedal, whether it's ground starting or not. Right, but that's why I'm saying with the proportionally shorter pedals on the bigger Monster, you need a different way to start it IMHO than the usual jam-on-the-pedal-and-hold-it that everyone seems to do. Yeah, this is the key to showing that the "big wheel, less torque" is not the only contributing phenomena for the markedly "lack of torque" riders feel on the Monster next to smaller wheels. Said this a million times to naysayers, but the Monster torque is there, you just can't do the same 💩you do for smaller wheels. It's the standing technique I posted on IG, and it applies to any wheel, even if you don't "need" it for the smaller, lazier technique wheels. The ground start is the ground start. When on, heel plant each straightened foot on the side the wheel is bending/tipping over (other leg bent and on forefoot), then let the wheel fall over to the other side, feeling is like the flopping motion when pedaling a bicycle. Your feet need to be flared out at the heels to let the body of the wheel clear your legs. If you've ever lazily turned on EUC while pressing the dipping pedal, it's that feeling of increased force: your weight gravity is doing the work, not your muscles.
  11. Er, I think you're overestimating the "kick start" part of all this, as starting off the ground is not an ideal leverage position on a wheel that has resistance. But agree to disagree then. It's not that cut and dry. Yes, fastest start, more force-pressure. But the Monster doesn't have the proper and proportional torque arm in pedal length to exert such force-pressure properly. My zero exertion method is based on the wheel body falling combined with the forward vector, nothing more (no muscle). You won't believe it until you get it and start feeling it, I know that if I were another rider without that feel, I wouldn't believe it either. If you had like double the pedal length/radius to play with, maybe regular force-lean would get proper acceleration and be better on the Monster, but even then, you would be operating too far away from the wheel body center, sacrificing overall stability IMHO. Bet. Until then, you should really try my squeeze-sit method on the Monster. I know other Monster-seated-riding forum members will agree with me that the torque is definitely there on the Monster, since they feel this seated just as I do (translating that to standing is much much harder, again due to the lack of torque arm in pedal length).
  12. eh. I'm still waiting for a seated 24" or 26".... Monster 22" is a little too small, there's still room for a few more inches.
  13. Probably, but I prefer to keep my wheels as close to deadstock as possible since I will always upgrade.
  14. Nice jump EUC is not that kind of instantaneous burst push though IMHO, it's always felt more like a resistance force, like rowing or cable benching, etc., needs some more sustaining of force than just all initiation then instant release. My motion is more like you're about to let the wheel body fall over and drop; that gravity based acceleration force sustained over distance of fall.
  15. The first push off the blocks is all I'm talking about. Of course, for the entire run, we're not gonna catch a car if they wanna floor it and push 40 mph+. But dead stop accel off the blocks, I'm gonna beat any ICE car (minus the $$$,$$$ sports cars) with my Monster seated "squeeze" technique; if you did the same, you would too. Of course, the ICE car will quickly catch up. Anything electric though, like a Tesla, etc., of course I'm not gonna be able to do this. In my experience with the side-to-side & seated technique, if you get it right, fastest accel to slowest: 1. Seated Monster Squeeze; 2. My Side-to-Side/Heel-to-Heel Motion on the Nik+; 3. Regular Lean on the Nik+; 4. Side-to-Side/Heel-to-Heel Motion on the Monster; .... big gap..... 5. (slowest) Regular Lean on the Monster. I for the love of me have no clue how guys can ride a Monster with that extra padding/thickness, as the Monster is super thick to begin with, stock. IMHO, sitting will always win against standing, even seated Monster vs standing Nikola. The significantly greater leverage (again, literally squeeze) exerts so much more force than any standing technique. Yes, all faster on the Nik+. Blow away? Not so sure it's that big a gap with the right rhythm/swing/leverage. And I'd beg to say I would get off the blocks a hair faster than the standing Nikola with squeeze seated Monster. Zero exertion, all body angle leveraging and natural gravity weight falling, all plus the right rhythmic build up. Believe me or not, with that same rhythmic motion I do on the Monster, doing so on the Nik+ makes it EVEN Faster than the norm!
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