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houseofjob

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houseofjob last won the day on November 3 2019

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About houseofjob

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  • Location
    New York, NY
  • EUC
    #MonsterV2 #NikolaPlus

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  1. On perfect pavement, the rides are the rides, going at speed on any PEV is fun. But the joys I get from EUC that I will never be able to find in esk8 (city version): Building/sidewalk transitions: the ability to surf 35+ mph car traffic, then instantly decelerate onto the sidewalk at pedestrian pace, then glide into an office building while dismounting and popping my trolley into walking my wheel (no stopping) into the building in one fell swoop. Bumper-to-bumper car traffic slaloming: esk8 has super limited turning radius, especially if you are packed in tight quarters like car traffic, whereas on EUC, I can turn 180 on a dime. Stuffing all manners of food and drink in my face while on route to my destination, seeing as there is no need to constantly hold and press a controller. Both are fun, but with esk8, especially the higher end ones like Kaly, LaCroix, etc, it's just more cumbersome when you inevitably want to incorporate it into your practical everyday life (carrying the board, wanting to ride in rain but can't, etc.) The main reason we've been seeing more and more esk8 guys in NYC convert to EUC are for those very reasons: practicality. Many think they won't want to use their esk8 for everyday stuff (and some don't), but when you get hooked to riding instead of walking or taking other means of transportation, that's where they realize the deficiencies, ie. not always riding becomes not fun. And for reference, I snowboard, and have tried and been tempted by the many esk8 here in the city, but ultimately it's the practical stuff that's stopping me from buying in (well, until they develop a true e-snowboard that can edge NYC pavement on all terrain tires ).
  2. Sorry, no clue, as I have no interest in this segment of gyroscopic product. Maybe ask the dealers, or if you know an existing hoverboard that features tiltback (never knew they had this), just open it up and identify the board.
  3. EUC guys call it tiltback. OneWheel guys call it pushback.
  4. You are only as good as your weakest link. Like everyone has said before, the charge port would be the weakest link, GX16 being typically rated 5A max. You could custom double up the wiring on both GX16-5 ends that aren't the 1- 5+ pins, to get a potential 10A charge. .... but quite honestly, I don't find a lack of charging speed once you get into the 5-6A range, as I do with my Cycle Satiator or 2 "stock" Gotway 100V chargers coming off a modded Charge Doctor.
  5. There is no such thing as a 100V charger "made by Gotway" AFAICS. The "stock" Gotway 100V chargers are just outsourced YZPower 24S chargers fitted with the Gotway GX16-5 plug spec: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32951958057.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.2.693f1238fucTDj
  6. Sure, but you really can't just quote numbers blind, especially seeing as a 100kg rider and a 50kg rider will have completely different numbers, for example....... Maybe if you said the number based on the rider weight, wheel model, tire size, and model tire. Then people can scale up or down from there. Er, but every wheel when you lift up will have at least some wobble. You really need to ride it to actually see if there is an issue. After any significant periods of riding in rain or dirt/debris, especially if you notice any visual signs of metal screws rusting anywhere. Also, definitely initially before you start riding the wheel.
  7. If you read on the forums of the horror firmware upgrade stories of wheels past (notably the Ninebot E+ firmware debacle circa 2016), you'll know that brand new firmware OTA update rollouts should be more of a wait-and-see approach; upgrade at-your-own-risk. Um, no, PSI is not a finite value. Proper riding PSI depends on the tire ratings, tube vs tubeless, and most importantly the rider payload and rider comfort preference. Don't go by the number, go by the feel while riding: firm bounce to stiff is adviseable, as going towards super bouncy/cushy risks damaging the rim (bending) on impact (potholes, curbs, etc). Er, if you can't feel it while riding, then it doesn't matter if the wheel wobbles on no-load lifting. I would add: spray anti-rust agent like Kroil on all exposed metal parts (pedal grub screws, exposed axle between the shell body and motor, etc.) spray lubricant like white lithium grease on the pedal rods to prevent rusting and getting that piece stuck when de-pedaling in winter cold, top up charge as often as possible, due to artificial battery depletion in cold. in the summer, limit extreme heat exposure as much as possible (indoor A/C), as with all computer-like electronics, extreme heat is the most damaging. check the wheel internals in general for loose screws, especially the ones securing the pedal arm, main axle nut, and main board MOSFET screws. also check for stripped wires, etc. buy one replacement inner tube ahead of time.
  8. We were talking wider tires, not bigger diameter tires. Unless you can source 2 same diameter but different tire widths with the same material consistency/makeup, and maybe general tread tyre pattern style, can't make such a gross generalization IMHO. For such a generally known claim, I have yet to come across such proven evidence (again, only width change, not coupled with diameter change). Care to link some substantiated articles on the supposed fact that wider but same diameter tires reduce torque?
  9. Everything I’ve ever read on this topic states manual pedal bikes use thinner tires due to less rolling resistance when physically pedaling. But we are motorized, not manual, and don’t have to worry about such nuanced efficiency from manual/physical pedaling with our God-given legs (remember, pretty much all sub 18” EUC tires are borrowed from the bike/eBike world still). I’m with @Chriull, the mass difference between the 2 tire widths is negligible for motor powered devices in terms of torque IMHO. More important factors that aren’t spoken of on the forums for me are rounded vs flatter wide width tires; overall tire tread aggressiveness pattern and material composition, etc. In my opinion, it’s more about the tire getting in the way of realizing the hypothetical peak motor torque, more than it is a certain tire size “increasing torque”. And FWIW, I have yet to come across a 19” and below EUC tire that has a more aggressive tread down the midline, which should help for traction off-road without going full spaced-out knobby.
  10. I think Gotway leaves it on startup as a safety to show the buzzer alarm is working.
  11. Nope, warning beeps are all the separate buzzer. An additional benefit of entirely removing the speaker module assembly is that you lose the loud startup sound altogether (typical Gotway buzzer power on beep still remains though).
  12. Thanks for the post! Is there a link to buy somewhere online? Can overseas customers order?
  13. Congrats! One of the first things I would do specifically for the Nikola is to extra-secure the underside of the trolley scorpion handle to the wheel body with velcro, which will otherwise fly out and potentially bend on crashes/drops. Also, if you are trying to ride the Nikola in prolonged heavy rains, I would highly recommend giving up the speaker components altogether and completely shoring up the speaker holes (Gorilla tape, cover+sealant, etc). I've ridden a lot in rain on my Nikola+, and on a chance opening, I discovered that despite applying the water resistant speaker covers so popular on the forums, this did absolutely nothing: a pool of water leaked out of my speaker compartment, and my speaker module board was blackened, most likely from a short. On a similar note, the USB port cover tends to not stay capped, so due to rain exposure and my USB port rusting, I've Gorilla taped over that component, since I don't really use it. Unless I'm mistaken, I believe Gotway has been in the Google Play store for a bit now with the newer Gotway logo (not to be confused with the old electrosport app in there) Calibration is straightforward, just go to the section in the app; then balance upright/not leaning to the side, when the gyro is disengaged; then go through the series of power button long presses until the wheel re-boots and gyro balances. If all you're used to is the V5F, then you'll probably gravitate towards hard mode (forgot their name for it, far right button in the settings I believe), as the V5F is one of the hardest tuned wheels ever. FWIW, even Nikola Soft mode is more like an OG Gotway Medium mode. I'd highly recommend not opting for tiltback, as Gotway's tiltback is still not very reliable IMHO (our local NYC riders have had various incidents of Gotway tiltback not coming in a the reported speed settings). It's been awhile, but I believe you need an account in the app. When in doubt, use email registration mode over any phone-based registration. Other than that, my usual new wheel process is to spray Kroil anti-rust agent on all exposed metal parts (pedal rod, pedal grub screws, motor axle); and to open the wheel for a quick inspection of wires/connections, tightening all screws, especially the main axle nuts, pedal rod screws, and board MOSFet screws. Also, I always buy a spare inner tube for every wheel.
  14. It’s not that you can’t do the Brooklyn Bridge on the MTen3, it’s more would you even want to, considering today’s wheel options? I rode my old MTen3 every week in NYC Midtown for almost a year just fine, but determined I hated the extra stress in paying attention to potholes that such a small wheel diameter necessitates, stress that I do not have on any of my other bigger diameter wheels. If you’re fine with the extra vigilance needed and trading that for the size and weight, then the MTen3 will be fine. But for me, I’d rather add the slightly extra weight of a 14” and ride more comfortably.
  15. @Centeno The Ninebot One E+ has long been end-of-life'd by Ninebot, so any actual new/refurb stock left is at serious risk of cell degradation, especially if they've been sitting for months/years without being actively charged & sitting. I would ask the seller about what aspect was refurbished (battery in particular) and also open the unit (battery-side) yourself to see if the battery is stock (google image search) or not. Also, ability to hold a charge is a good indicator of cell degradation, so you could fully charge the wheel, then leave sitting unused a few days and see how much charge is lost. For a Ninebot One E+ with good cells, the charge should not go significantly down from non-use after a few days. Worst comes to worst, if the seller won't help you, then I would do a credit card chargeback (assuming you paid via CC).
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