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houseofjob last won the day on April 12

houseofjob had the most liked content!

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About houseofjob

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    Veteran Member

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    houseofjob YouTube http://bit.ly/YOUTUBEHOJ
  • MSN
    houseofjob Instagram http://bit.ly/IGhouseofjob
  • Website URL
    NYC E-Riders FB http://bit.ly/NYCERiders
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    NYC PEV Marketplace http://bit.ly/NYCPEVMarketplace
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    NYC E-Riders FB Chat http://bit.ly/NYCHRFBChat

Profile Information

  • Location
    New York, NY
  • EUC
    #MonsterV2 #Shermona #NikolaPlus #MCM5

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  1. Maneuverability is the rider, not the wheel. Think about it. Remove the rider from the equation, and an EUC is simply one wheel which can theoretically turn and pivot freely, size/weight regardless, no restriction. It's not like a car or bicycle, where the wheels are restricted in turning radius due to the frame and/or axle. Hence, your ability to pivot the wheel deeper, independent of your body pivot, is the key factor here. The typical narrow, leg-hugging-against-the-EUC-body stance, feet flat on the pedals, will limit your maneuverability on any wheel to only as m
  2. @xiiijojjo bump to this thread, I feel like I'm going getting stabbed in the eyes reading the forums at night. Would love to have a native dark mode, but if not, I guess I will dig for an extension-based solution *sigh*
  3. Most will say V12 is better because of QC/safety stuff like Smart BMS that individually balances the battery, and dual battery power connects for more evenly power distribution. But sheer performance, IMHO the Nik+ is better because there's no speed throttling curve as you deplete the battery (although this will probably mean the Nik+ range is sacrificed, the more you average higher speeds).
  4. I would argue, based on observing the frequency and nature of accidents across PEVs, that EUC is safer than the others due to the gyroscope balancing you to give you more of a chance to react and brace for a fall, plus the infinitely more maneuverability of not having an axle or extra second wheel to restrict turning radius. The tendency on anything grabbing a handle during an accident, is to hold on to the handlebars during a crash, which puts you in a more compromising position in said crash, flipping over, etc., and reducing reaction time when bracing to fall. If you track the nat
  5. Ah, I'm not in the market for one so didn't realize. Yes, then RS, Nikola+, these would be considered mid-level I guess, can't go wrong either way I think.
  6. @Esk8itsOver9000 Also, FWIW, I keep hearing good things about the EX.N here, although I have yet to try, much more than I hear about the RS.
  7. Welcome! Good thinking. I don't subscribe to the "starter wheel" sentiment either. We've had a ton of esk8 "defections" into EUC the past few years here amongst the NYC PEV ridership, and now they make a considerable majority of the EUC riders here now. FWIW, when you come to a group ride here, you'll see predominantly 2 wheel models: Veteran Sherman & Gotway MSX/MSP HS (the RS19 predecessor). The Veteran is unmatched in acceleration at higher speeds, acceleration in general, though not suited for extreme uphill power situations as a result.
  8. Guys, there's essentially no other answer to this question but the below troll, plain and simple:
  9. Honestly, the "best riders" I've seen rarely ever do YouTube IMHO. Like other guys have said, YouTube, especially the ones with most subs, are all about attracting eyeballs, not necessarily informing you of the best wheel for YOU (like how reality tv competitions are not really about finding the winner, more than they are about entertaining and drawing eyeballs). This is often done IMHO most through entertainment value, far more often than actual insightful information. Unless they're buying the wheel they're talking about outright, there is ALWAYS the pressure to talk nice about sai
  10. Yeah, that's one of the top questions, in the above form or the "I could never ride that" form. I think this is a cultural thing. In the US, many will ask you how much all kinds of things cost, not just EUC. Over the years, I've learned that the cost question first basically means there's no real interest outside of the audience-looking-at-a-circus-act kind.
  11. Man, you guys sure are super nice to actually answer questions like this Try 6 years of the same questions over and over and over and over and over and over again. I either pretend I never heard them cuz I always have an earbud on , … or they’re getting a one-word answer like “3 thousand” while I’m hurrying to ride/run away. If they can catch me, then sure they’ve earned a few more answers from me, but that is rare. (altho if they prove genuinely interested and have some presence of manners, I will break down and do some kind of Q&A).
  12. @yaro96 Also, make sure you're milking any power left in the wheel after the battery is disconnected (press the power button on several times until the wheel no longer powers on), to prevent any residual charge in the system damaging things on connection. I've heard of this damaging boards, more than reversing the motor wires. You want to always do this step first (disconnecting battery then milking) before taking apart the rest of the wheel or disconnecting any other board components.
  13. Not really. One of my mods I had an inner tube blow, but that's after a bit of use, and normal with any wheel usage. So, in the end, this is an inflatable rubber tube, like an inflatable balloon. It can be blown up to different degrees, but the farther away from its limits you go, the more you risk popping it, just like an inflatable balloon. In the bike world, they say you can stretch an inner tube one size up without issue (say 2.125" wide to 2.5" wide, or 2.5" wide up to 3" wide), but beyond that, you're testing the limits of it popping. For me, I didn't want the ha
  14. Beats me. My wheel is barely every leaving my sight. But leaving wheels unattended happens more than you would think, in my experience of other rider habits.
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