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King Song S18 Discussion


Phong Vu

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I like to tinker with gadgets/technology so upgrading/modding my S18 (as soon as mine gets delivered, if ever) is definitely on my to-do list.  Changing the tire to suit more trail riding than road was something I was considering, even though I know it would be difficult.  Well...this guy did it:

 

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5 minutes ago, dsd317 said:

I like to tinker with gadgets/technology so upgrading/modding my S18 (as soon as mine gets delivered, if ever) is definitely on my to-do list.  Changing the tire to suit more trail riding than road was something I was considering, even though I know it would be difficult.  Well...this guy did it:
[VIDEO]

I'm pretty concerned about how the motor cable may contact the tire with the interior mud protector removed. Less concerning, but annoying, would be dirt and mud that will end up everywhere, lol! I really want a dual sport tire though, and this definitely looks pretty awesome.

I love tinkering too... All goes well this weekend, I'm probably gonna teardown the suspension and put in some proper spacers and bring out the true potential of my S18 🙂

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17 minutes ago, redfoxdude said:

I'm pretty concerned about how the motor cable may contact the tire with the interior mud protector removed. Less concerning, but annoying, would be dirt and mud that will end up everywhere, lol! I really want a dual sport tire though, and this definitely looks pretty awesome.

I didn't realize the fender was removed in the video. Was this done to fit the knobby tire? If this becomes a popular mod, maybe some 3d printed accessories could remedy some/all of the problems that removing the fender would create.

Edited by Mark Wilson
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1 hour ago, Mark Wilson said:

I didn't realize the fender was removed in the video. Was this done to fit the knobby tire? If this becomes a popular mod, maybe some 3d printed accessories could remedy some/all of the problems that removing the fender would create.

Here is the video where he removed the fender.

 

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1 hour ago, Flying W said:

Once the suspension system can move like it should the wheel should feel super smooth like a mnt bike!

Even just a little lubrication and removing the blocks has made a crazy difference! Smoother and cushier. I've wakened the beast 🙂 There's still a little rubbing I noticed on the left side, and I'm not psyched about the lockwashers-as-spacers thing. Stoked to see how good it gets!

1 hour ago, Mark Wilson said:

I didn't realize the fender was removed in the video. Was this done to fit the knobby tire? If this becomes a popular mod, maybe some 3d printed accessories could remedy some/all of the problems that removing the fender would create.

Yes, that tire is too large to fit inside the interior mud protector unfortunately, as are most of the dual sport tires I've been wanting 🙁 But yeah, maybe a 3d printed fender with more tire clearance is possible.

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52 minutes ago, redfoxdude said:

But yeah, maybe a 3d printed fender with more tire clearance is possible.

IMHO, one of the great things about King Song's design of the S18 (putting aside these inevitable 1st batch/assembly issues and niggles) is the huge potential to modify and customise the wheel to your own personal preference. 

Due to it's almost modular construction, as we are already beginning to see with this Kenda 262 mod, owners can very easily add/remove/upgrade this wheel in any number of ways and I think we are only going to be limited by our own imagination! 

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1 hour ago, fbhb said:

IMHO, one of the great things about King Song's design of the S18 (putting aside these inevitable 1st batch/assembly issues and niggles) is the huge potential to modify and customise the wheel to your own personal preference. 

Due to it's almost modular construction, as we are already beginning to see with this Kenda 262 mod, owners can very easily add/remove/upgrade this wheel in any number of ways and I think we are only going to be limited by our own imagination! 

Yeah thats what i found amazing. You have the skelet and almost everything else you can change basically. :popcorn:

We need to figure out how create either a wider fender, or fender that doesn attach itself to the wheel but the body. That would be best.

Edited by eve
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7 hours ago, redfoxdude said:

Even just a little lubrication and removing the blocks has made a crazy difference! Smoother and cushier. 

Same here.:thumbup: My shock also bottomed out after this simple modification.

I use to love ripping into wheels and modifying them. So glad there are many members willing to share their expertise and provide valuable feedback of their mods. 

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13 hours ago, fbhb said:

As far as I know, the Android app is supposed to be getting upgraded and being made available through the Play Store shortly.  Jack has mentioned on Telegram, that there is always a hold up with Google authorizing apps on the Play Store, so users need to be patient!  I cannot comment on the iOS equivalent, as I'm not and NEVER will be an Apple user!

They probably can't authorise something that tracks where you are and locks your stuff... The list of permissions it needs is creepy. 

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21 minutes ago, Nifrigel said:

Has anyone tried changing the suspension yet?

I think the difference would be between marginal and non-existent until the linkage is fixed. No point in investing in a shock just yet.

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Does anyone know if Jack said the block (he told us to remove) needs to be in place when tightening the pedal hanger assembly back onto the sliders; then tap it out again?  I guess this is to keep things square when clamping on the pedal hanger?

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1 hour ago, Nifrigel said:

Has anyone tried changing the suspension yet?

I've been playing around with an X-Fusion O2 Pro RL shock. The larger positive chamber is noticeably less progressive/more linear than the stock DNM AOY-36RC, which is what I was hoping for. However, the dampening adjustment has a much smaller effective range. I found the lockout to be more useful, though - the DNM lockout is super stiff, and forces you to ride at the top of the travel, while the X-Fusion lockout provides a decent amount of sag, while still being stiffer than open. I like it so far. I bet a Fox would be awesome, but I want to look more into the different tunes to understand what would be best for the S18's geometry.

33 minutes ago, Feynman said:

Does anyone know if Jack said the block (he told us to remove) needs to be in place when tightening the pedal hanger assembly back onto the sliders; then tap it out again?  I guess this is to keep things square when clamping on the pedal hanger?

It's supposedly just to keep from over-tightening. I'm a little skeptical that it's really necessary, unless people are going Hulk on the thing...

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Interesting to see the old linear motion binding pop up on EUCs. Had to happen with several rails in parallel.

On heavy duty industrial machines both sides of the rail are fastened, and the parallel have little tolerance. On cheap 3D printing this is worked around by having one of the sides of the rod a bit loose. This way the rail can wobble a little to compensate for imperfections without binding.

</2c>

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13 minutes ago, redfoxdude said:

It's supposedly just to keep from over-tightening.

I understand about the over-tightening part...where you don't want to tighten so hard that the clamps start to either collapse the tubes or strip the threads or both.  But that block would be the wrong mechanism for that.  Torquing to a specified torque value and/or adding a spacer (shims) between the clamps (to prevent clamps from collapsing tubes) is what I would do.

I regards to tube alignment, there's only so little that can be done, since the tubes are captured/held in place via clamps.

Keep in mind, my comments are based on pics and vids.  I'll have a better understanding as soon I mine arrives.

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@Steef Klonoa To be honest i would just buy the Bones Ceramic they are i think 2x times the price of the Reds but they dont rust which makes them easier to clean and keep in shape. 

No need for Swiss Ceramic which are like 150 lol.

Edited by eve
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17 minutes ago, Steef Klonoa said:

 @eve Good point, I didn't realize they rusted

Its unlikely that any water gets there because the wheel has the fender but if you ride in a rain it might. Its a one time investment of around 40bucks. Imo its reasonable.

With normal bearings you might get caught in a heavy rain and the next day theyre out. Its kind of an unlikely scenario but better safe then sorry and were riding 2000bucks machine.

Edited by eve
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5 hours ago, mrelwood said:

I think the difference would be between marginal and non-existent until the linkage is fixed. No point in investing in a shock just yet.

After the almost rigid linkage was made operable, the upper bridge breaks through. :whistling:

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3 hours ago, Steef Klonoa said:

These are inexpensive and good quality for anyone looking to buy replacements. I had used them before when I used to longboard.

 

3 hours ago, eve said:

@Steef Klonoa To be honest i would just buy the Bones Ceramic they are i think 2x times the price of the Reds but they dont rust which makes them easier to clean and keep in shape. 

No need for Swiss Ceramic which are like 150 lol.

Are these bearings available in 10x19x5mm (6800 series) though? That's the size that is in the linkages. I bought some cheap ones to have around as spares, but it looks like the bearings are okay, I just took some time to tear down my S18. Not too bad to work on, actually.
There are 6 bearings per side - lowest pivot has 2 bearings together, the upper pivot has 1, and the middle pivot has 3 (2 on inner linkage, one on outer). And the shock pivots just rely on the shock's bushings.

Edited by redfoxdude
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