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About redfoxdude

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    San Francisco Bay Area
  • EUC
    Monster, Nikola+, KS16S

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  1. My cutoff was indeed with a v1.5 board. Jason sent it to me in hopes it would resolve the pedal flick issue, but it did not, I am sad to say. The previous board was a v1.4, and honestly, it wasn't any more difficult to do the ankle flick on the v1.5. The only changes that I could make out were potentially improved EMI to reduce or eliminate the Bluetooth EMI problem from earlier boards.
  2. I'm glad you are okay! I'm very disappointed that King Song has remained pretty much silent on this. My cut off was with the newer v1.5 board. The ankle flick issue wasn't resolved for me with the newer board, unfortunately...
  3. @Killbot Absolutely! No, on both my Nikola+ and Monster, the bluetooth module has a male header strip, and it is just plugged into a female socket on the amplifier board. On my Monster, it actually had come a bit loose from the socket (someone forgot the silicone gloop...) and wasn't powering on. Oh well, I was going to open it up, anyway 🤷‍♂️ Yes, I believe that should do it. I've only done this with my repurposed FTDI adapter, but I presume it should be similar (and more reliable) with the CSR programmer. Do let us know how it works out!
  4. @photorph @Killbot Hello! Yes, existing guides around are pretty vague. I'm happy to do a more detailed write up with screenshots and stuff later when I have some time off from work, but hopefully I can get you up and running... As you have mentioned, you will need the CSR USB-SPI programmer, which can be had for pretty cheap from Aliexpress and the like. (Or you can be ridiculous like me, and use an FTDI adapter and build a level shifter circuit and install custom drivers... Patience and the CSR programmer is probably worth it, bahahaha) From the datasheet, the "SPI_EN" pin is SPI_PCM#, and by pulling it high, the SPI interface is selected. So it should be pulled high to 1.8V. You can use the 10k resistor for this, connecting the 10k between the "SPI_EN" and the 1.8V pin on the programmer. (Something like a 1K would be fine, as well...) But I will caution you to not connect any of the pins to 3.3V (other than the VCC pin, labeled 3.3V in this guide)! The chip's IO are on 1.8V logic with an in-chip regulator, and you risk damaging the chip by connecting 3.3V to the IO. Otherwise, the pin labeling in the guide you linked can be used to hookup the rest of the necessary pins from the programmer. I did not remove the chip from the KRC-86B module, but I did remove the module from the amplifier board in the wheel, as I didn't want to risk back-powering any of the amplifier board's circuits from my programmer. The KRC-86B is held into the wheel with silicone, so carefully removing that, the module can be removed. I made a connector that plugs into the male header on the bottom of the module, but soldering onto the tops of the pins would work, too. Especially if all you want to do is remove the startup tone and change the device name, and you don't intend to be testing things and reprogramming the module a bunch like me. On the software side, use PSTools to dump the original config (PSKeys) for safe keeping (File->Dump). Then in the ROM Config Tool, I read in the PSKeys with the button the left, "Open From Device." The settings should read in and populate into the interface. On the "Features" tab, which is the main tab opened to begin with, you can change the device's name. Then go over to the "Audio Tones" tab, and remove the startup tone. (I'll write more on making a custom tone later for those interested). Don't write the PSKeys to the device from the ROM Config Tool, however. I couldn't get that to work, but I've also heard of devices becoming bricked. Instead, use the button on the left, "Write PSR," to save a copy of the PSKeys to a file. Then, in PSTools, use (File->Merge) to push the new configuration onto the device. And that should do it. Plug the module back into the wheel, and enjoy a quiet startup and maybe even a custom device name! (I assume PSTools dumping and merging should work fine. I used the command line tool for this, which is another option...)
  5. Yeah, my Monster V3 didn't have the bluetooth startup sound, either! I was worried at first that my bluetooth module was DOA, haha.
  6. The bluetooth music in mine wasn't working initially, but I think the module wasn't fully inserted into its socket. There was no silicone securing the module like there was on my Nikola. After reprogramming mine with a custom name and startup tone, I secured it with white silicone goop. I use music so cyclists and other motorists hear me, even if it is annoying. As for water proofing, I did the speaker mods folks have done for the Nikola, and then I added some thin neoprene tape around the little caps above the main panels, since water can just go straight in there and bypass the gasket around the main side panels.
  7. I don't recall the actual reductions, but the tiltback speed of 50 km/h is supposed to be fixed until ~70V I believe, and then it starts reducing proportionally with the voltage. I think v1.06 started reducing the tiltback speed at 72V, and v1.05 at 67V. Going back and carefully playing around with the KS16X with ~90% battery, I feel like I could very easily overpower it even at ~38 km/h on flat ground. I can reproduce @chrisjunlee's ankle flicks, and it seriously feels like there is hardly any torque/thrust margin. It just gives like a hinge. This really is a super fun wheel, but yeah, I'm not buying King Song's safety claims, not as the wheel currently is. The 84V Nikola has more torque/thrust margin, and I feel much more safe and secure on my 100V Nikola +.
  8. Sorry for the lack of updates! Work got real busy, and this project got put on the back burner. I have still been iterating on the pads, though. I am almost satisfied with them now:
  9. This is true, but in that case, I think the manufacturer should advertise a lower max speed. If they allow the user to "unlock" an unsafe higher speed, that's another issue all together, but I don't think a manufacturer should advertise a top speed that actually isn't safe. But eh, this gets into the realm of opinion. I know plenty of people wouldn't have bought the 16X if they had been told up front that it's only safe up to 25mph. Anyways yes, this is pretty much what I do with my Nikola+. I don't ride it past 30mph, typically closer to 27-28mph, and the torque overhead is wonderful.
  10. Unfortunately I imagine I'm not in the majority here, but I think this would be excellent. I'm sure plenty of people would complain about the manufacturers doing this, but it really would yield a safer product.
  11. Bahaha! That's my 3D printed enclosure for this horn: https://www.amazon.com/Innovative-Lighting-545-2010-7-Yellow-Electric/dp/B002IV8RFY/ Coincidentally, I do love a good coffee. Now, if I could get a functioning espresso machine onto one of my wheels, that would be one fast espresso!
  12. I agree that it seems very low. I neglected to mention, however, that I was on a slight downhill. Still, seems low. Thank you. Protective gear is well worth the money, that's for sure! Ah, another good question! It was probably something like 50 or 60 degrees Fahrenheit, so I don't think that was the issue. Absolutely! If King Song wants to continue to claim 50kph is the max speed, something has to give. Again, thank you for always advocating for us with the manufacturers, and your responsiveness with important issues like this!
  13. Thank you! It was exciting, haha! It's the latest I think, 1.5? I replaced it during the investigation into the pedal flick thing. Haven't had any of the bluetooth related symptoms, I don't think. And haha, that music playing caused YouTube to warn me about the copyrighted content in my video.
  14. Ah, good point. I'm ~176lb, probably ~190lb with gear. Everything seems to be good! This was less than halfway into my commute - RIP. Haha, but I made it the rest of the way just fine, keeping to less than 26 or 27 mph or so. @Aneta I am actually an electrical engineer, but your post is nice and informative for anyone with curiosity to learn more! The comment you quoted is exactly to your points, that I had hoped King Song's motor and battery selection for the KS16X would yield a high enough "thrust margin" to safely sustain the advertised "maximum cruising speed." Again, the point that I am trying to make, is that I have been wondering if the system is throttled down, and would be capable of a higher safety margin with further tuning in the firmware. Wouldn't that be nifty? I was well within the operating design limits of the wheel, and it's on King Song to continue to improve their product! This is partially for folks on the forum to see, but also, this is for King Song to see, in hopes that they would act to improve. That said, something that I do quite like about Gotway's 100V wheels is their safety margin when you are riding ≤ 31mph. If King Song made wheels with the same capability, but kept their usual top speed of ~31mph, the safety margin would be awesome. Folks would probably complain that they are artificially limiting it and blah blah blah, but I think that would be stellar. If the Nikola+ was more comfortable and nimble, I would choose it any day over the KS16X, since I don't like to ride past 30mph pretty much ever. Maybe I just need to try the medium mode again? It's really noticeably more fatiguing to ride the Nikola+ for me. Partially the shape/width, but maybe the stiff pedals are contributing more than I thought. But, that's off topic.
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