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redfoxdude

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About redfoxdude

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  • Location
    San Francisco Bay Area
  • EUC
    Monster, Nikola+, KS16S

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  1. I suppose I just found it a bit odd, since much of the wheel seems quite thoughtfully designed. 🙂
  2. I originally thought so too, kind of odd.
  3. Hahahaha yeah. I skipped through. For example, they removed the handle portion entirely from the shock sliders. And they got pretty far without actually removing the shocks, which probably would have made it much easier. I think it could be done in less than an hour, for sure. One probably could just follow along with the disassembly video, but just don't remove the batteries, nor the headlight/taillight sections.
  4. Custom decals and pads, and now it really feels like mine.
  5. Good eye, ha! I put a custom decal on the original shock, and custom pads, to make the wheel more my own.
  6. The KS16X has little rear-facing tail lights on either side that blink like "turn signals" when you lean, though they aren't super visible. That's the only other King Song wheel that does that, as far as I am aware. A neat little easter egg, if nothing else. =]
  7. Thank you! Hmm, it's hard for me to put to words, but I'm still figuring it out, too. I'm more used to carving the Monster, where you really need to put your weight into your feet when you shift directions to combat the gyro (even with the carvier tire I put on), but you don't need to as much with the S18. Some folks describe it as pumping with your feet. Committing with your hip is good. I think the other thing to get used to is feeling the natural rhythm of the carve depending on how wide/deep you are carving.
  8. Went for a quick 13 mile ride today. A little over 1000ft of elevation gain. Throttling doesn't seem bad. I started with 81V, and returned with 73V. Never sagged below 71V and I was able to go at least 22 mph the whole time, even on the way back, up hill and against a strong headwind. I didn't feel like pushing until I heard beeps, haha, I was just enjoying the ride.
  9. Yes, unfortunately most folks aren't super familiar with how this kind of stuff works, so I can't really blame them. I edited a more detailed explanation into my post above in hopes of informing people if they wish to know more.
  10. That's fair. I certainly wouldn't mind a King Song wheel capable of 35+ mph for a hefty safety margin. I like cruising at 24-28 mph typically, and it's really nice to have that extra safety cushion at the top end. I like that about my GotWays. (Though, looking at the electronics inside GotWays still makes me wince)
  11. The point I think you are missing is not that 35mph is unsafe because ouchies crashes and accidents, but rather, 35mph would potentially be extremely close to the limitations of the battery, leaving hardly any extra power headroom to keep the user balanced. It can take you up to 30mph as is already, and increasing the top speed the user is allowed to go does not increase the headroom, that's not how this works. The headroom is directly related to the battery's performance, and how much effective phase voltage it is able to produce. In order to increase the headroom (and top speed) we need more parallel packs, higher nominal voltage, or both. I do agree that higher top speed capability does mean more headroom and safety, but the machine needs to be designed and built accordingly. I cut out on a KS16X at 28mph, downhill. King Song increased the top speed of the 16X, as users requested, but there is extremely little headroom at the top end on that wheel. More detailed explanation for those interested: Torque and therefore rotation of the motor is produced by electrical current running through the motor phases. Current is induced by applying a voltage across the phases. Higher phase voltage, higher current, higher torque. Now, when the motor is rotating, back electromotive force (back EMF) occurs, basically a negative voltage relative to the voltage we are applying to the phase. The faster the rotation, the higher the back EMF, and the more it reduces the voltage we are applying across the phase. So in order to maintain the current/torque we want, we need to increase the voltage we are applying, limited of course by the maximum voltage of the battery itself. But at the same time we do this, the more power we draw from the battery, the more the voltage sags, which also eats into our maximum possible voltage. Eventually you get to a point where you can't apply enough voltage to induce the required current/torque, and that's when a cutout occurs. Thus, more parallel packs reduces the sag when power is drawn from the battery, and a higher overall pack voltage raises the headroom as well.
  12. I think a stable with both the S18 and the V11 would be a very fun one. =]
  13. Just got back from a 13-ish mile ride through the hills, about 1,500 feet of elevation gain throughout the ride. Started with ~80% (EUC World optimized setting) and got back with 35%. Top speed of 27 mph, average of around 18 mph. Never got any beeps, but I wasn't pushing super hard, just enjoying the scenery. For a lot of my riding, that's not bad: I feel like I could easily get 25 miles even in the crazy hills here. What caught my attention was that, even after the main 1,000 foot climb, the wheel only reported a temperature of 28 degrees Celsius, though the ambient was a comfortable 60 degrees Fahrenheit. The passive cooling seems to work pretty well, if that number is correct.
  14. ? https://www.ewheels.com/product/16x3-tire-chao-yang-h666-nikola-16x/ They don't have the 18x3 one any more, though
  15. Unfortunately, I didn't get that model, either I got this one: https://giyo.com.tw/web/03product/03shock/GS-02PT.php
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