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About redfoxdude

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  • Location
    San Francisco Bay Area
  • EUC
    Nikola+, KS16S

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  1. Yeah, it was a real pain in the ass to separate the halves. And that ridiculous LED connector, I couldn't believe it. Come on, man! @Patton250 Here is the video of my notes on how to do it without separating the halves, a lot easier. Unfortunately I figured it out after I started the painstaking process...
  2. @Patton250 I'm hoping to work on my wheel tonight, and tho I'm not taking the wheel out, I can show you the way to take out the wheel without having to remove the control board and all that jazz. Don't even need to separate the halves. I'll make a quick video to explain and point things out!
  3. 😍😍😍 I'm a sucker for wood grain - that looks awesome! Are the LEDs able to shine through at all? I agree that cutting slots for the LEDs would negatively impact the effect. I only really look at the voltage when it's charging, but it's not the end of the world if it's not visible. I would maybe move it to show through the plastic above the power button if I really wanted to be able to see it with the wood side panels.
  4. It's not tooooo crazy... Take the control board side cover off, unplug battery/drain the capacitors, unplug motor, unplug hall sensor, gently lift the LED strip up at the bottom where that little separate plastic piece is, remove the little cover (they do come off, but they are retained very well! Do this on both sides), take out the 6 screws that retain the wheel on each side (and also the cap where the motor cable comes through), then slide the wheel out, taking care while you snake the motor cable through. You'll need to gently spread the halves while you do that. I tried the method of taking off the non-control board half so you don't have to unplug the motor, but found it to be a major pain, since the screws holding the thing together come from both sides, a few screws are annoying to access, and you have to remove the upper battery because the adhesive foam also keeps the halves from separating. Not to mention removal of the tire was really tough! That was the hardest part, for sure. I don't know if I'd want to leave the wheel attached to the shell during that process...
  5. That's happening with my KS16S's handle, too. Looks exactly like that. Not the best coating, whatever it is.
  6. Looks like I'm gonna need a new board, should get one hopefully some time next week. and @chrisjunlee @Rywokast thanks! I love little projects like those, and it was an awesome excuse to learn to use the laser at work hahaha
  7. Oh yeah, I've been trying these out - they're made from a few layers of laser-cut 2mm EVA foam. The main part is about 6mm thick, and the knee contact point is about 14mm thick. I've revised the design to make the knee parts less likely to peel up over time, but still maintaining the color accent. I may reduce the rear protrusion into the LEDs, too. I'll probably make another topic about them soon
  8. I don't have a KS16X to test it on, but I just uploaded a wider version of the base piece of my stand model that should hopefully fit!
  9. Double checked all the connections, and it all seems fine. Contacted Jason to see about a replacement control board
  10. The motor cutoff button seems to be okay, it did the usual beep indications when I press/unpressed it. I'll take another look at it, though, thanks!
  11. Changed my tire (wanted to try the CYT), and after reassembling, the wheel isn't balancing. I think the beep code indicates either low voltage, or fallen over? The battery is at around 95%, and the app indicates that as well. To take the wheel out I unplugged the batteries, the hall sensor cable and motor phase wires, took of the little plastic pieces below the pedal hangers, lifted the LED strips out of the way, and slid the wheel out the bottom. Changed the tire (which was significantly more challenge than expected) and reassembled everything. I tried running calibration from the app to no avail. Any ideas? Is my control board somehow toast? Thanks in advance.
  12. Yeah, I think that setting up the dev tools and navigating their horrible interfaces would be pretty daunting for most people. A switch or 555 timer controlled relay would be much easier, for sure. Though, I've been curious if the ~$11 modules on eBay would work as drop in replacements, especially since I'm kinda worried I'm going to brick mine trying to get converted audio stored onto EEPROM chip for a cool startup sound, ha! I haven't had any luck getting that to work, and unfortunately the documentation for the tools is really vague. For now, I made a custom startup tone with the user defined tones options, but I look forward to playing around with this once I get back home from my work travels.
  13. Some coworkers went on a 25 mile bike ride today, and I tagged along with my Nikola. A third of it was surprise off-road - my first time off-roading on an EUC! Tons of fun. We should really be more sure of our route next time, though, ha!
  14. That's rather unfortunate. The few EUC riders I've randomly encountered seemed to be riding pretty courteously. Certainly much better than the majority of bicycle riders I see everyday, blowing traffic signals, riding the wrong way, passing way too close, etc.
  15. Good news! I successfully disabled the startup sound by writing a modified configuration file to the Bluetooth module! The sound was indeed on the module itself - two audio tones: "4 Note Rising Scale" and "V Long High" (the worst part.) There are actually a lot of preset tones to choose from, and you can define your own (in terms of notes and durations.) I haven't looked into whether or not there is enough room on the Bluetooth chip or the EEPROM chip to fit a short audio file. I also renamed the module to "redfoxdude's Nikola," though I almost called it "Rolling Boombox!" Hah. On a more technical note, using an FTDI breakout board along with a level shifter was more work than I was thinking, haha. I ended up stealing the 1.8V voltage regulator off of another board I had laying around - the 1.8V logic reference has to come from somewhere! I would definitely recommend buying one of the dedicated USB SPI programmers for this. A 2mm pitch connector I put together from scraps at my work was also really helpful, so I didn't need to solder wires directly to the module. Also, I only found older versions of the development tools from 3rd parties, rather than from Qualcomm. And the graphical tool that helps a lot with changing the audio tone settings was in yet another place. lol. Anyway, it's fairly straight forward once you have everything in place. I'll probably whip up a step-by-step guide later, but it's late, so I'm gonna sleep!
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