fbhb Posted October 21, 2020 Share Posted October 21, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, AlexIsTheBest said: I was considering these bearings that are commonly used in bike suspension parts: Enduro brand 6800 LLU MAX Any bearings with the designation like that of the Enduro 6800 LLU MAX, or 6800VRS as the King Song original fitment for instance, are constructed without a cage to hold the balls in place. This allows for a greater number of balls to be fitted to the race, thus increasing the load bearing capacity (the bearings in the Amazon link will have a cage and fewer balls). Although more expensive, these bearings are actually the correct fitment for suspension pivots and the reason they are to be found in MTB suspension set ups. My own S18 has only just arrived this week and I will be carrying out a Full strip down to remove the notorious Spring washers, the Big flat washers, install correctly dimensioned spacers and inspect All the bearings for any signs of damage/breakage! Should I find there are indeed bearings that need to be replaced, I will definitely be opting for the correct VRS, MAX etc. designation of bearing, due to it's High load, Low speed rating! Edited October 21, 2020 by fbhb 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted October 21, 2020 Share Posted October 21, 2020 1 hour ago, AlexIsTheBest said: Enduro brand 6800 LLU MAX But they are ~$6 a piece. No need to spend that much money for bearings. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feguti Posted October 21, 2020 Share Posted October 21, 2020 2 hours ago, AlexIsTheBest said: Hmm I see. Ok well I will ask EUCO to send me the blocks. They seem to have cancelled the order for the battery holders. I guess because I told them I wasn’t sure if that’s the problem and asked for new bearings. Man, communication is difficult, they won’t confirm anything and seem to know nothing. Also, thank you very much for clarifying this! The piece that supports the battery packs on your wheel does not have the hole for the blocks, so it would be useless to receive them. First you would have to change it so that you can have the version that carries them. You should find out from your dealer what is the latest Kingsong solution to solve the problem. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexIsTheBest Posted October 21, 2020 Share Posted October 21, 2020 (edited) Haha! @Rehab1 and @fbhb should have a bearing battle! Or perhaps you can actually get higher quality bearings cheaply somewhere in the world. Edited October 21, 2020 by AlexIsTheBest 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUCboi Posted October 21, 2020 Share Posted October 21, 2020 On 7/17/2020 at 11:25 AM, ND4SPD said: Can you please explain to me how a 1554wh 18XL gets the same range as a 2100wh Nikola? the 18xl has a skinnier tire. just less surface contact. thats all 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FinRider Posted October 21, 2020 Share Posted October 21, 2020 5 hours ago, feguti said: I received my new KSS18 on October 7th. As you can see in the following photo, the iron block that is placed behind the platforms was missing and that means that the dealer has reformed and fixed the KSS18, but has forgotten to send them to me and I have claimed them because they are essential to be able to change the height of the pedals. The function of these square iron blocks is that they are removed after tightening the four screws that hold the batteries and the platforms to the tubes. It is important to have them because when removing them it is very difficult to unscrew these screws again, to raise or lower the foot platforms, since the screws without the square iron block placed in the hole, support a shear force very strong and when wanting to unscrew them, we would even break the head of the screws or deform the hexagonal recess. In order to unscrew, the block must first be repositioned to remove shear stress from the bolts, and then loosen the bolts. To re-tighten them later, it is also essential, before doing so, to put the blocks back in position. Kingsong advises to use the wheel with the blocks removed, I suppose it is for the suspension to work better, since the tubes manage to improve the parallelism that the tubes must have so as not to block the entire suspension. It is easy to check that the support of the batteries and the platforms is not the same part in your KSS18 that you received after mine. It is possible that yours is the old version and that it broke when tightening the screws, but I am not sure until confirmed by your dealer. There might be some truth to this but I don’t agree 100%. I took my blocks out by removing the 4 bolts from the pedal hanger, not hammering them out as per locksongs instructions. I then put the screws in without the blocks, and it did not have an adverse effect on the suspension - in other words on the paralellness (is that even a word?) of the slider tubes. So I would not be worried about the blocks at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shura Posted October 21, 2020 Share Posted October 21, 2020 (edited) 5 hours ago, fbhb said: My own S18 has only just arrived this week and I will be carrying out a Full strip down to remove the notorious Spring washers, the Big flat washers, install correctly dimensioned spacers and inspect All the bearings for any signs of damage/breakage! Should I find there are indeed bearings that need to be replaced, I will definitely be opting for the correct VRS, MAX etc. designation of bearing, due to it's High load, Low speed rating! When you finish all your mods - come to see me in Auckland. It will be interesting to compare with my S18. I've done nothing - just riding it "from the box". Edited October 21, 2020 by Shura Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlasP Posted October 21, 2020 Share Posted October 21, 2020 (edited) 3 hours ago, EUCboi said: the 18xl has a skinnier tire. just less surface contact. thats all Yep, rolling resistance is a massive deal/impact to range. Wider tires have been all the rage in EUC land the past couple generations mostly to provide additional cushioning before suspension was created (and also tangentially as an off-roading feature). Now that suspension is here and as it continues to improve, I'd really like to see street-centric EUCs with suspension + narrower tires again (personally I think 2.5" like on the 18xl is a sweet spot)--let the suspension provide the cushioning and minimize rolling resistance again to maximize battery/range to get the best of both worlds. (In the absence of significant breakthroughs in batteries [which are perpetually "3-5 years away"], this would be the single biggest thing that could be done in EUC land to maximize battery/range and combat EUC weights spiraling out of control.) Edited October 21, 2020 by AtlasP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted October 21, 2020 Share Posted October 21, 2020 37 minutes ago, Shura said: When you finish all your mods - come to see me in Auckland. It will be interesting to compare with my S18. I've done nothing - just riding it "from the box". Some S18s ride perfect out of the box. KS just needs to clone those assemblers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elliott Reitz Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 On 10/16/2020 at 4:04 PM, the0r1st said: i upgraded, went for a 15 mile ride and it works fine... On 10/16/2020 at 4:11 PM, dsd317 said: That's great news! I've also updated, but haven't been able to ride because it's raining here. Did you calibrate after updating? Just curious because I've read somewhere that said to calibrate after updating firmware. On 10/19/2020 at 10:29 AM, Purplecycle said: I have just upgraded. Honestly, I preferred the behavior of the lift switch before the upgrade. I had strange behavior when leaving the wheel plugged in overnight (charging would finish, and after that point the battery would start discharging), so hopefully this firmware fixes it. As for riding -- I will test later today and post impressions. So does anyone have a compelling reason I should care about the firmware? I'm getting all the torque I need via the cut pads (like having power pads via cut-out the top of the pads). I don't use the lift handle unless I actually turn off the wheel (in/out of car). And I especially don't want the chi-com app on my phone getting every privilege to access all my phone's data. So instead of "try it... ok fine". Is there any "wow" improvements from it??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 8 hours ago, EUCboi said: the 18xl has a skinnier tire. just less surface contact. thats all That surely isn’t all. GW wheels are empty (0% battery) at 3.3V / cell, which is one of the highest in EUCs. The 18XL goes down to 3.0V, which is the lowest in EUCs. When a GW shows the battery as “empty“, 18XL still shows about 25% of battery left. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridgeboy Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 1 hour ago, Elliott Reitz said: So does anyone have a compelling reason I should care about the firmware? I'm getting all the torque I need via the cut pads (like having power pads via cut-out the top of the pads). I don't use the lift handle unless I actually turn off the wheel (in/out of car). And I especially don't want the chi-com app on my phone getting every privilege to access all my phone's data. So instead of "try it... ok fine". Is there any "wow" improvements from it??? No. This whole thread is filled with reasons why you should be much more worried about the S18's hardware. Firmware comes in at a distant last place consideration... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lukasz Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 Who likes behavior of the carrying mode in firmware 2.06? Wheel has no torque at all, falls to front/back, also when handle is moved down to riding position - toque is not supplied back until you "hunt" for it moving the wheel front/back. @Jack King Song - please revert it to the previous mode, or allow users to select how it works. In my personal opinion it was solved better in in firmware 2.05 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beachboy Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 58 minutes ago, Lukasz said: Who likes behavior of the carrying mode in firmware 2.06? Wheel has no torque at all, falls to front/back, also when handle is moved down to riding position - toque is not supplied back until you "hunt" for it moving the wheel front/back. @Jack King Song - please revert it to the previous mode, or allow users to select how it works. In my personal opinion it was solved better in in firmware 2.05 Yes agree, so lame...but the rest of new features still OK tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevincymar Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 Good thing i have not updated the firmware on my S18 to the lastest firmware. I am still on the 2.05 and the wheel rides outout any problems. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FinRider Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 4 hours ago, Lukasz said: Who likes behavior of the carrying mode in firmware 2.06? Wheel has no torque at all, falls to front/back, also when handle is moved down to riding position - toque is not supplied back until you "hunt" for it moving the wheel front/back. @Jack King Song - please revert it to the previous mode, or allow users to select how it works. In my personal opinion it was solved better in in firmware 2.05 Yup, i hate the new implementation too and would love to revert back to the way it was in 2.05 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lukasz Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 Taking about firmware features - another issue worth taking care of - @Jack King Song can You please add in the software the option to allow the rider to set the speed at which the "long beam" is turned on? It is by default now at 10 km/h which is too low speed in my opinion. It shall be either increased to 20 or 25 km/h or user adjustable. Long beam SHINES into the eyes of incoming traffic / bikers / people (this shall be addressed in the upgrade of the LED positions in the next release of the lamp) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlaskanAlain Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 My lock button just makes the shock harder to compress, it doesn't lock at all and I can't pump it to more than 200 psi. The pump simply can't do it, even at 130 it feels almost impossible to pump. Could that be the pump or the shock? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsd317 Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 15 minutes ago, AlaskanAlain said: My lock button just makes the shock harder to compress, it doesn't lock at all and I can't pump it to more than 200 psi. The pump simply can't do it, even at 130 it feels almost impossible to pump. Could that be the pump or the shock? Watch and listen to what he says: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlaskanAlain Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 I just noticed a piece of the rubber washer sticking out between the shock body and the inner part that moves into the body. Definitely cannot get it up but thanks for this, good to know. What is worse is that the EUC just fell over and broke the charging plug. Can anyone help me there? I will probably have to solder in a new plug onto the controller/motherboard/BMS and buy a new charger. I didn't even get to ride yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted October 22, 2020 Share Posted October 22, 2020 3 minutes ago, AlaskanAlain said: I just noticed a piece of the rubber washer sticking out between the shock body and the inner part that moves into the body. Definitely cannot get it up but thanks for this, good to know. What is worse is that the EUC just fell over and broke the charging plug. Can anyone help me there? I will probably have to solder in a new plug onto the controller/motherboard/BMS and buy a new charger. I didn't even get to ride yet. Do you have any photos to provide some clarity about your issues? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elliott Reitz Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 (edited) On 10/22/2020 at 4:59 PM, AlaskanAlain said: My lock button just makes the shock harder to compress, it doesn't lock at all and I can't pump it to more than 200 psi. The pump simply can't do it, even at 130 it feels almost impossible to pump. Could that be the pump or the shock? 200 psi with the inflation block in only gives you about 150 with the inflation block removed too. Use a valve extender instead. Then you only have to top it off once in a while.. and to do that try rapid pump-force sorta like punching it via the handle with the base hand resting against the wheel. On 10/22/2020 at 5:16 PM, dsd317 said: Watch and listen to what he says: My pump doesn't have a volume mode. I have a better situation with valve extenders... for attach/detatch as well as not having to deal deflate to use the blocks. Yep I can just top it off if I need to. Last time I did was a month ago while daily riding since I got it in early August. Valve extenders ROCK! (so does the K262 tire) Edited May 27, 2022 by Elliott Reitz 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mac Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 On 10/20/2020 at 8:39 AM, Mac said: I upgraded to the new firmware 2.06 and now the trolly handle doesn’t work in the carry mode. Any ideas? I just reverted to the 2.05 and it works again. I’m going to stay with 2.05 until they get this fixed in the next iteration... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shura Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 2 hours ago, Mac said: I just reverted to the 2.05 and it works again. I’m going to stay with 2.05 until they get this fixed in the next iteration... How had you reverted to 2.05? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Purplecycle Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 6 hours ago, Mac said: I just reverted to the 2.05 and it works again. I’m going to stay with 2.05 until they get this fixed in the next iteration... I may end up doing that too. On my day-to-day commute (involving a bus, various stairs, etc.) it is very annoying to have a limp wheel. Plus the speed of reaction when you pull the entire handle out is very low and often the wheel ends up almost falling to the ground until I move it around and the motor torque kicks in. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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