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Elliott Reitz

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Everything posted by Elliott Reitz

  1. Its the 1350 WH version. Also, my knees are soar/tired right now. That ride was quite the unexpected workout. I have stiff mussels from knee to shoulders. I was standing way forward and grasping with my heels. I need some power pads and pedal extensions. The snow right now is really heavy and wet, requires full power like going up a steep hill the whole time.
  2. Nice snow ride today. My dog seriously wanted me to go beyond my comfortable speeds. Funny though, the wheel (an MSX 100V with a 14-2.5" MX nobbie (18.75")) turns way easier in these conditions... to the point was often "over steer", especially at the start speeds. Wheel log screen shots calculate out to a 38.7 mile range to use 100%. In the graphic speed-log in wheel log, my version has the label kmh but it really is mph... I've verified that error in the app... IDK if its been fixed, haven't cared enough to find out.
  3. My impression of the tread pattern is rain, not snow/ice. My impression of the 2.3" is that it will result in a smaller diameter (eg: the 18" may be more like 17.5"). If so, that will give your wheel a much more torque'ey feel. You'll really appreciate that! (from having tried MSX stock at 19", an SR244 at 20.5", and now using a (2.5-14") 18.75" dia. knobby). When summer gets here I think I will keep the knobby, or maybe replace it with one without the studs that I plan on adding to the one that's on it now.
  4. Since most of my riding is < 10 mph with hour-long-durations I've learned to shift my stance alot. L-heal/R-toe, switch... steep spots with 1 foot fwd, 1 foot back, etc. Though that's not a solution to hitting a soft-spot like muddy-grass. The reality is that my stance with both-feet balanced on my oversized Nikola pedals aligs to my shoe-laces. So moving a foot forward of that is useless. As for moving a foot back it helps just a little in that my "nutural stance" has the heel of my boots even with the back of the peddles. So heel hangin off still gets a bit more leverage as long as I'm not barefoot or wearing soft shoes. Boots have a shank that extends to a point, but not enough in the front. So I need pedal extensions on the MSX. I already created them on the e+ and its a huge help!
  5. Looks like https://www.eucguy.com/ is out of the power pads for now. In this vid at 7sec in you can see my left foot has the shoe-laces even with the front of the pedal. So that's about 2" right there. So I figure an inch beynd that with something in front of my foot would help. Rather than being tripped-off, I've slidden off the front tooo many times. Though considering what would likely work for tripped-up scenarios, more authority via pads will probably be a better solution. Well maybe just a few screws to catch my boot-slides. Good idea w/ 40-grit too, better than skateboard stuff. Snow makes it very slippery. So if I do fabricate pedals they would feature big open holes (I think Z10s have that). Added tire friction per knobby reduces the power-margin just like larger diameter. For me (185 lbs), the smaller diameter (1/4" vs stock) makes up for the knob-friction. (re: studs) Bummer, I made a mistake in the purchase, thought I bought the 9mms, but checking .... ooops. So thanks for commenting - that I noticed. My knobs are only 6mm. So 9mm studs have 1mm exposed... so as long as the tire itself is 2mm think these will work. So re-purchase the right ones. https://www.ebay.com/itm/223445606490
  6. You, sir, need torque pegs / power pads / shin blocks / whatever it takes to put something in contact with your shin to increase the torque command when it tries to launch you off the front with unexpected deceleration Yes! I've not heard of torque pegs - got any more pics, anybody selling or is it custom? I extended the pedals on my e+, that's pretty good... On my MSX I have the bigger Nikola pedals that are still too short (Chinese have smaller feet I guess). So I've considered extending them by about 4 inches to the front with maybe a 1" block at the front so my feet can't just slide off. My tire is the most aggressive knobby I've seen and its fully fast thanks to smaller diameter than stock. What you described as vibration-resistance is similar to what I felt with the bigger SR244 knobby. Engineering wise it appears to be more about the command authority (the 2.5-14" is 18.75", vs stock is 19" diameter, vs SR244's 20.5" dia.), than the tire-friction. Smaller dia = more responsive, easier to reach upper speeds. Note the diameter effects the actual speed too. The 19" stock 30 mph becomes 32 mph with the SR244, or 29.7 with the smaller knobby. BTW, I just ordered these studs: https://www.ebay.com/itm/293353114765 {+ updates} The slow-turning action is also helped by reduced diameter (with proper inflation). Additionally, I've noticed I can get more slow-turn-twist by coupling it with a momentary slow-down. Reminds me of seeing someone (speedy-feat?) doing 180-180-180-180 in rapid succession with quite a lean to it.
  7. I've changed my tire 2x now. I'm still using the original intertube because the one that came with the 2nd tire is a straight valve. I've not seen angled valve intertubes for sale... so if someone finds one, please share the source/link.
  8. With a motorcross tire I can say I don't think noise is a factor. My dog's collar makes more noise (gingleing the tags). Wind noise is the biggest noise factor by far. Also, the vibration is completely tolerable under 10mph, and over 20mph its barely noticeable. I've not tried studs and don't feel the need. The motorcross style knobby is great for snow, mud, slush, even frozen-spots in slush such as walked on sidewalk snow-packed. As for black-ice studs would eliminate that risk. What's the biggest risk? Command Authority! When? unseen soft spots such as mud with grass over it, or snow-drift spots. Basically cruising along at 10 mph and suddenly hit mud without noticing it... the wheel can do the mud but takes much more tilt as though the rider is 100 lbs heavier. Considering control systems (I=engineer), the system acts like a type-1 system, where a type 2 system might work yet better since it would be more sensitive to acceleration input than tilt-input. As it is I compensate for hitting soft spots by clentching the wheel between my heels and knees. There's one grassy area that floods with about an inch of water... once in that soft stuff it works fine... the transition is the hardest part. Same on the exit where sometimes there's a lip in the soft-mud requiring the wheel to spin out of it... similar to snow in front of a curb-climb.
  9. To the Park manager! Subject: Merry Christmas and Happy New Year - vid-group-link Hi Dale, Thanks for listening. I think you’d enjoy these… over 50 vids with my dog & the EUC… many (such as #22, 49-51 at the beautiful park we love, 11-12 the Nationals, 18 at SU, etc). And yea, I choose to burn gas and drive to the church rather than risking my life on RT 370… Drive to the dog-park rather than risk my dog on Rt370 & Long Branch. Praying for the concepts: 1. access for responsible skilled riders with pets such as me, 2. better rules for congestion/events/safety-concerns you described. 3. Complete the trail around the lake 4. Ebikes like lime as rentals for around the lake 5. Access for people like my father to trailer his electric golf cart and ride around the lake (see my vid #s40-44). 6. Easier commutes vie electrified Personal Mobility Devices 7. Special volunteer coaches/deputies such as you mentioned you once had for new roller-blade riders. Respectfully, and Blessings to you, yours, and our park! Elliott
  10. I just installed this smaller diameter knobby a few rids back. So I'm not yet sure if its leaking, got that impression but b4 most recent rides topped off, pressure guage hard to be sure... I'm certain(sorry) that initial under inflation did cause my impression and description of its turning problem. Last couple rides I checked/topped-off air pressure to 35 or so... rides great with that! So now what I can say is the smaller tier with 35 psi has the pot-hole/bump sponginess of the previous fatter tier had with 15 psi. And wow its performance is way better. As for my desire for longer pedals, that's still a reality on grass where there's super-soft sections... mud. In mud/snow/soft, the authority for power to keep speed is observable & noteworthy. Thus I have some clutch springs and ideas for sprung pedal over-plates that will be 6" longer.
  11. So tonight I added air b4 my ride. Wow it was near 0... inflated to 30psi. B4 filling I was surprised there was basically no pressure in the tire. That rode much better, especially for low-speed steering while it still feels soft vs speed-bump-jumps. Just now checked it and it only had 15psi. So I think I must have put a hole in the tube during the tire-swap. Sucks cause the other tube requires a 90 deg chuck for inflation. Just inflated it to 40psi. Will see if its flat next ride. As it is, my air-leak-issue is interesting to this thread because my slow-speed turning issues were from the unde-rinflation. With adequate inflation the smaller radius seems to steer quicker than bigger tires.
  12. Tonight (riding under 15 mph with my dog), I payed attention to the effects f my tire only being 20 lbs (at least that's what it was when I filled it, mabye only 10 to 15 now). Anyway, it barely cushines anything and thus needs more air to avoid bending the rim hitting potholes over 20... . Also, I think that low pressure makes the wheel have to "lift" over the outer knobs to get into deep turns. Hopefully more air will improve that as well as the slow-speed twist action. As it is, my traction is so strong (on soft grass/mud) that its really hard to twist turn it right now.
  13. More notables from most recent snow-ride with the 2.5-14" knobby... 1. Pedal-slippage is something ya get used to... and its a primary motive to speed selection. That is if I hit the slope part too slow it increases the slide-off-front probability... Too fast...just bounce/slide off on bumps. - my most recent crash (Friday): A guy had just opened his door 1/2 way while occupying a double-wide parking spot... I yelled out "passing by you"... his response was to shove his door the rest of the way open. There was enough space to swerve while making the 2 dogs follow.. but I had lost much speed... then at the curb there was a a 6" snow/ice pile... instead of climbing the curb, my feet went of the front and I was standing... but then the wheel climbed itself up the curb and its seat poked me in my a## off my feet onto the seat... then flop onto my back while the wheel flopped out in front of me. I said absolutely nothing to that Mercedes driver because if I did I woulda shouted at him... so I rode around the parking lot a few more times (waiting for the food-order). 2. The slow-tilt-turn-radius-athourity - when it surprised me I found my last twist correction attempt left me facing near backward to my direction... funny thing about that was I could let my inside foot slip (snow-slippery already) to further increase the wheel lean angle. So it felt awkward the 1st couple of times... but hmmm that works... starting to remind myself of watching Bob Hanna MX race long ago... he jumped triples, hill-cliffs, etc... his bike bounced while he found anyway possible to hang onto it by the bars with the throttle open... funny that truly works on jet skis too. Enough difference that my primary rides (7 to 16 mph with 1 or 2 dogs) I don't feel like I really really need longer peddles right now. You're welcome... I find this stuff interesting from an engineering perspective. From that perspective I do speculate smaller diameter should turn sharper for the same lean at the same speed. Though yea, knobby patterns could make a smaller-flatter tire more like a taller-rounder tire when deep-leaned.
  14. Great question as I was just on it tonight... rode about 5 miles with my dog... top speed was 49 mph (hmmm that musta been when I broke through the ice and jumped off). Anyway... The 244 required more peddle-leverage than my body-weight could easily deliver. The 2.5-15 standard knobby gives me the leverage/acceleration I expect. So whats less than perfect? Well tonight I noticed that very slow speed sharp turning (not accelerating) was "less authority" than the other bigger tires. Like when I'm using wheel-lean at slow speed (vs the body-twist-redirection) it takes a deeper peddle-lean (with body straight up) than it did with the SR244 for the same slow-turn. So perspective = bigger tire is easier to slow/lean-turn than a smaller one, while smaller diameter tire = acceleration authority advantage. Which is best? Well the smaller diameter tire seems to be better suited to higher speeds. At low speeds, its got traction and the authority of accel/decel. But the bigger tires seem to turn easier at slow-constant speeds.
  15. Took another ride the 2.50-14 standard knobby, also labeled 87-5718, GS-45F, and Mfg PN: T10299. Mixed wet/snow roads with top speed about 25 mph. The performance is impressive! When I selected the SR244 I was looking for an on/off dual use tire... and yet it does have the mild vibration of a knobby on paivement. Whats surprising is that the 2.50-14 is the same vibration wise. But its maneuverability is better than stock and way better than the 244... not as nimble as the e+ but for a 50 lbs big fast wheel, its a huge improvement most notable at less than 5 mph, and over 15 mph. Over 25 I've not yet ridden it though I doubt its maneuverability/stability would be as troublesome as the lacking command-leverage on the SR244.
  16. So it wasn't "tilt back" but rather "level-your-###" at whatever speed balances what you put in... with less leverage on a bigger wheel. So no speed vs tire impact but rather command'abilty impact that's most noticeable at the lowest and highest speeds. Same situations where I always wished I had bigger pedals, especially for my toes. I still have pedal mod concepts in my head, but today they seemed unimportant.
  17. Per behaviour question: Carving with the stock tire was sluggish compared to the e+ though that wheel is slow. With the 2.75-14 SR244, carving was worse though tolerated for knobby off-road benefit... top-speed also acted like I weighed 400 lbs (kicked me back allot more)... and that SR244 didn't fit (cut off the outter knobs as well as shaved the case where I could... lack of clearance was a hazzard in more ways than one too). So I today I installed the 2.50-14 standard knobby. Its also labeled 87-5718, GS-45F, and Mfg PN: T10299. I've had 1 ride on it in snowy/icy conditions with a about 20 psi in it. Id say its what I wanted to start with. In the pic its the one on the right. Stock is in the middle and the SR244 is on the left. The 2.75-14 SR244 was 20.5" diameter inflated (measured). The SR244 was too big, effected the command-input so it felt like it lost torque most notably at very low and very high speeds). Stock was 19" diameter... and the The 2.50-14 is about 18.75" (I just measured that), so it seems to handle better. Its much more manouverable than it was, even better than stock. As for squishy tire, it was soft enough with 20 psi. So all in all I'm happy with it! Here's the ebay (over 10 available, $33 delivered in the US): https://www.ebay.com/itm/IRC-M2E-Front-Tire-Sold-Each-2-50-14-Mark-II/233398274183?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
  18. Thanks! Thanks for the "requirements" that I need. I'm actually an unemployed engineer. IDK if I can come up with a better solution than foam pads... yet motivation exists, especially as I'm giving up the big-soft tire... and motivation is the mother of invention. BS follows: I actually do have 14 patents, so I know better than to think I'd make $ solving this engineering problem. Instead, I still hope to see a better manufactured solution. So if my prototypes or blog-posts contribute... i.e.: I built a 20Ah 1000W e-bike in 2009 for under $500... rode it for years... rebuilt it into a folding mountain bike in 2012, and rode it in NY then Puerto Rico and back... my breaks suck... IDK about rebuilding it again. EUCs rock... yet my GF's mom rode my old pathetic ebike! Perhapse my next project should be something that flies!
  19. Thanks. Yes I'm thinking coil springs. Basically peddles are 6" too short IMHO... so 1st an under-peddle-plate to extend, then coils on the 4 corners to hold an upper plate that moves. The springs: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Barnett-Clutch-Springs-MT-90-501-44-06090/281795640134?epid=1851167096&hash=item419c543b46:g:uWYAAOSwEetV8JbS
  20. So far my max speed on my MSX is only 35 mph. With this T10299 I believe I'll be hitting the 42 mph alarm speed. My issue with the SR244 is/was how the 20" diameter forced me to slow down per torque. Never mind the wheel diameter differences to spedometer readings. The truth is TORQUE matters!
  21. Please share your experience with that... link to this thread so I can find it. I have both Nikola and Stock peddles. The hardest part seems to be where to find the perfect springs for the scheme to anchor the plate. Like clutch springs under, or a leaf over... etc.
  22. Thanks. Per some research, I'm getting an IRC T10299 2.5x14. Here's what I've learned: Tire ---------------------size --------- diameter ---------------------comment IRC T10299 2.50-14 17.9 per an ebay listing (my purchase now) Stock 2.70-14* 19 measured (* size marked as: 18x3.0/76-355) Shinko SR244 2.75-14 20.3 measured Shinko SR241 2.75-14 20.3 per an ebay listing C-186 2.75-14 20.3? Per google the SR241 appears to be the same tire... though IDK per dialog here. So I'm giving up shock absorption for torque. Maybe I'll end up putting springs into my peddles (another member here did that), especially since I'll be standing an inch lower now.
  23. Yes, exactly! So can you post here more info on the 2.50-14 tire? Will it fit my MSX? I love the SR244 knobby over the stock-street tire... and sometimes appreciate its cushy-squishy balloon-ness... thought the effect on torque as you seem to recognize makes a smaller knobby option worth trying... this winter in snow, and mud and mud in spring
  24. So I posed my vids on the dogs with EUC page... should I repost? Here's the other thread: see last post... or these:
  25. The first snow hit Syracuse for this year (2019). My dog Loki is inspired by it. I didn't catch all of his enthusiasm in these 2 vids, though still shows some.
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