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Elliott Reitz

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Everything posted by Elliott Reitz

  1. I did a vid with and without blocks with the valve-s removed from the shock. The motion has serious friction type resistance... not binding. It seems it was shipped with dry o-rings in the sliders. Lubricating that helped quite a bit... though they're still very slow. I think the shock also has too much internal 'resistance' in that the rebound knob full-open doesn't release the shock to act like a spring (or nothing with the valves out) but instead adds huge friction-like resistance. The resistance I feel is throughout the motion of the travel. With valves out the suspension doesn't compress by itself (takes about 30 lbs pushing to make it compress), and by lifting it doesn't extend without a little pushing on the shock or holding by foot while lifting. Ref this vid:
  2. Think of the Nirvana song... "Hay Wait, I've Got a New Complaint"... To my surprise, after mentioning it to eWheels looking for replacements... they're shipping them already.
  3. Wow, if that's the case I wonder if something is broken.? Like how is it possible with the geometry? Can you get a pic? If its as you say my best guess is that one of the suspension bolts has come loose or broken. In this vid, I remoeved the valves on the shock and tested the effect of the pedal blocks (don't bother removing them). But key to your point is the travel with the shock open-air.
  4. Yea I noticed my fender had an interference with the shock before I cut/removed 80% of it to fit my K262 tire. Definitely worth it! So, the contact point was between the inner fender (one of the bolt eyes) and the shock. It was so tight on the stock wheel and already hitting the fender that I was VERY relieved that my K262 actually fit without hitting the shock in the same place. And per the water splashes in my most recent vids... I'm pleased to say that the shock keeps the water off my a##. Good enough!
  5. Here's my vid from riding a long-ass trail today. To me the vid is boaring, though I have the impression lots of people like to watch our long rides as if they were riding themselves... thus I actually did upload this one.
  6. I'm not a fan of pressure changes to address wobble. Not in the shock, and not in the tire. Wobbles are manageable by dampening them... mild carving, weight to one side... approach wobble speed to test technique until you "got it". My S18 wobbles happen at about 18 mph. The stock tire was pretty bad. The K262 was worse when I put it on until I deflated it and squashed it straight while the electric pump re-inflated it. The key to dealing with wobbles is dampening them. Weight to one side or the other... and on the S18 with Kuji pads be extra careful not to convert the side-side wobble to a steering wobble (those are yet more dangerous) by deep knee-bending. You can still carve on a narrow lane... think of it more like riding with all your weight on 1 leg at a time. If you can ride with 80% of your weight on one side you won't have any more wobbles, though it takes some practice to gain confidence in that. PS: Since we're still in the S18 discussion, here's my vid from riding a long-ass trail today. To me the vid is boaring, though I have the impression lots of people like to watch our long rides as if they were riding themselves... thus I actually did upload this one.
  7. Most wheels have a "natural wobble" at a speed and often related to tire imperfect alignment. On my MSX 100V it happens around 25 mph. On my S18 I get it around 20 mph. The odd thing with the S18 and those Kuji-pads is that if you're squatting into them (that deep at speed), you can easily convert the side-side wobble into a steering wobble. Regardless the wheel you can dampen the wobble most easily by shifting your weight mostly to one leg, then the other (mild carving is fine). You can find the wobble point on a smooth road and experiment with dampening vs slowing down to stay stable while learning how to handle it on that specific wheel... then as you gain confidence you can go faster without worry.
  8. Its working out great! (actually I put a cut-out of the left side back on to hold the wire over the wheel) Had a nice ride on it today! And no way would I have been able to do this ride on a road tire today. There were too many muddy and wet patches with roots and rocks and things. After replacing my tire I noticed a couple of square metal shims. Now I wonder if those were to align the tire into the fender during production. LMAO I wonder if the spacers are under-sized. Thank you! No. That was more KS BS. I was curious if it did anything so tested it. There was no difference w/ or w/o the blocks. And to me it seems having them during install preserves the spec dimensions so would be more likely to work correctly... as the new pedal hangers have it built in.
  9. The "cut out" is laying in front of the EUC in the 1st pic. In the 2nd pic the remaining part of the inner fender is to the right of the tire (goes up/down with the wheel-motor). I have K262 at 35 psi and climb-hitting curbs (even 1/2 or 3/4 height) still seems to get too much rim impact. Riding weight about 210 lbs.
  10. Unlike the MSX and e+ that worked right out of the box, my S18 issues were: 1. locked wheel, had to enable an priv-hungry invasive app to unlock & to update firmware. speed-distance lock sucked too... damn nanny politics in engineering. 2. deflated shock. Got pump stuck, threads buggered, needed valve extenders. 3. Charger blew. EWheels sent a replacement overnight express. 4. that f'kin beeper just won't stop... I still gotta kill it before I can ride this thing to work. 5. Noise coming from the motor - sure sounds like bad bearings. Seemed to go away for a day after I put oil on the spacers in theory to drip and seep on into any bearing openings... hmmm maybe they are open and dry! 6. Inner fender too small for off road tire, the Kenda K262. Cut out most of it, keeping only the left side of it to guide the main wire. 7. Suspension excessively stiff and slow. Oiled sliders, removed linkage bolt washers, opened rebound thumb-wheel all the way.
  11. Hmmm it's cockeyed from the rear too!
  12. Thanks, Loki is great. Yes an S18 with a K262 on it. My wheel isn't centered between the fender parts either. I've been wondering about the size of the spacers and if maybe one is missing from the right side (facing fwd). If so it might explain some of the over-stiffness in the suspension (easy to feel w/o shock attached at one side).
  13. 2.50-14 knobby (including CST-803): Yes I believe it will fit the S18 since I used one easily with my MSX. It will be great off road. On road it will be interesting how much of the road-vibration you feel with the suspension on the S18. The K262: That didn't take any knob shaving but I did have to cut the inner fender due to its larger circumference (20"). Shinko SR244 and SR241: I doubt these will fit without knob shaving and even then you may be challenged to keep clearance for the wiring if you can even get it to spin. The knob-shaved SR241 on my MSX is 3.3/8 width while the cavity is just under 3.5". The cavity width on the S18 is also 3.5" but the wheel isn't exactly centered in the cavity either. Maybe the spacers could be changed out to better center the wheel... too much trouble compared to the K262 option. The SR244 and SR241 also have larger circumference (20") than the stock wheel (inner fender won't fit without cutting out 75% of it). CST-186: I haven't seen these available in the USA. They might be closer to the K262 width since I recall someone putting one on an MSX. Others have also put the K262 on MSX/MSP without need of knob shaving.
  14. 72 V at rest is dearly drained to 0. Nobody should expect full performance that close to the edge of discharged. 42 mph (67 kph). But its not like an ordinary lift cutoff because when it gets to 31 mph in free spin it "runs away" going faster and faster without responding to any tilting response until it cuts off (coasts to 0 mph) and the app says it got to 42 mph. BTW, the MSX 100V free spins to 59 mph then cuts off very fast via rapid reverse torque to 0 mph.
  15. The S18 helps me almost keep up to my dog. He's done 28mph in snow with my MSX on well known smoother terrain. This ride was only possible for me thanks to a good suspension with a tire that could handle a little bit of mud and wet grass and leaves and roots and ... quick stop... chase... swimming there. lol
  16. Well for short off ride intense (for me anyway) rides like I enjoy, the S18 rocks over my old MSX. Thanks to its now dialed in suspension, I can almost keep up with my dog Loki. He's done 28 mph in snow with the MSX, and now that the summer heat is wearing off... well I wouldn't be able to do this speed on this rough terrain nor endurance with the MSX. We have done this same rout before w/ MSX, but speed was under 10 mph most of the way. Anyway, here's a ride I couldn't do without a suspension and an off-road worthy tire (K262). Also, the suspension is 200/100 (pumped unblocked) with rebound full open (most responsive, cushy ride).
  17. My battery isn't sagging like his was in the vid. I wonder if his battery was defective. That would explain a lot because I've ridden min up steep slopes and up to 27 mph. Wrongway was nervous about torque margin which on his wheel appeared to be a battery margin problem (old battery that has been fully discharged & rapid charged too many times). My concern riding it is more about its lack of speed margin to go 30 mph on it. Yea that battery on that particular wheel it appears.
  18. FWIW, the things I've done to make my suspension more responsive: 1. valve elbows - to figure out the best pressures for me. 2. lubricate the sliders 3. remove the washers on the linkage pivot. 4. lubricate everything else. 5. max-out the response valve (counterclockwise thumb wheel) 6. Try yet more pressure combinations! I like 200/100 upper/lower psi. (inflated without the pedal blocks) 7. Just ride! OH, and by the way, that noise I had that sounded like a disintegrating bearing? Well between the miles, the WD40, and the 3 in 1 oil... its gone now! So here's some fun bein baaad.
  19. Cool, thanks! Replacing a tire gets pretty close to completely disassembled too. Jason of ewheels is looking into the wheel bearing sound of my wheel on my vids too. So if I have to tear it down to replace the motor or the bearings (IDK if I would need a press), then it would be a good time to get the Alen wrenches to the back side of the suspension pieces and also remove the controller and cut that f'king beeper.
  20. I'm more interested in a complete kit than going through the whole thread to accumulate a parts list and go through what you did. If you post a sale of a kit on ebay and link here I think you might be surprised the price you get... the number of bidders, etc. Like set it up with an initial bid price that makes it worth your time... a BIN for 2x that... and it might sell instantly BIN or you might see how many bids from the more cost conscious helping you to guage how many you could sell... note there are only about 100 (? anyone know the #?) S18s already produced and probably only half of those would want to bother making it smooth as butter with the Fox-shock upgrade.
  21. @nycommuter69Lets hope someone makes an upgrade kit. I'd love to buy a suspension kit with or without the Fox shock... have all the bearings and exact model shock that goes with it. For example, @Feynman may not want to invest in 20 or more shocks, but 20 or so kits of all the little parts might be affordable for a family member to sell off on ebay. Or maybe just a detailed parts list with sources identified. Precisely cutting our own teflon tubes may not be something all of us want to take on as quick and easy as a purchase/install.
  22. Why? I have noticed that my shock is slow AF and with the bottom end dissconected it still resists being compressed... and without an actual spring WTF? So yea, I'll bite. Oh and its not a "165" mm either. It measures 8" or 200 mm (decompressed as in extended).
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