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King Song S18 Discussion


Phong Vu

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14 hours ago, roro said:

Maybe I'll give this a shot. Is there any risk of permanent damage doing this? Like widening the hole too much? Where did you pick up replacement bolts, I noticed all the hardware was really crap/soft, especially the little screws for pedals.

As stated above you will need to replace the damaged screw/bolt. I initially picked up replacements through Amazon which used a local supplier called Bolt base Ltd. 

Check out this excellent link to give you the details of whats required and the process but appreciate it will be slightly different with your newer batch.

 

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i just soaped and re-centered my jiluer tire on the s18. just off a little. i rode it like this from new for 170 miles. but after 352 miles on the v13 with the michelin tire, it was apparent it needed to be fixed.

 

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The sidetracking of the tire in the above video is indeed small, and usually wouldn’t cause any issues.

 But it would be much clearer to see and feel in a free spin test. If it noticeably shakes the wheel body, then it should be fixed. But if the shake is very small, any work done with it would be just for the peace of mind.

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9 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

The sidetracking of the tire in the above video is indeed small, and usually wouldn’t cause any issues.

 But it would be much clearer to see and feel in a free spin test. If it noticeably shakes the wheel body, then it should be fixed. But if the shake is very small, any work done with it would be just for the peace of mind.

yeah, i've done the spin test before and after. like i say, it's better but not perfect. 

i just couldn't hold my phone and wheel at the same time, but pretty bad shake before. i don't have a dial indicator to check the rim. my motor has two stickers on it, making me think the motor was opened up at the factory. 

i rode it that way 170 miles, but after being on a good wheel and tire on my v13, the wobble was more noticeable. i have a michelin street pilot 2 coming for it, but i'd be pissed if i changed the tire and it was the rim that wasn't true. course with the michelin's profile, it would still be better than the jiluer.

i'll ride it today in the daylight and see how it is. 

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for the sake of science, and anybody else that owns a s18 with this jiluer tire, here’s the video after i reseated the tire. better but still sucks. if ur s18 feels squirrely, it’s not u.

i rode the s22 afterwards with it’s knobby, which i’m not really a fan of on pavement, and it’s not perfect, but not annoying like the s18.

it’s like u have been driving a mercedes and then get a ford pinto for a day or two.

before i rip apart this s18, i guess i’ll buy a dial indicator and check the rim.

 

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I have some Clark Pads and am going to slap them on my S18. However, it appears the pads would make servicing my wheel more difficult. I have had my wheel apart twice already and will be taking it apart again to replace a battery cable guide. Has anyone installed Clark Pads with velcro? Do I have to remove the residue from the preinstalled tape, or will the velcro stick just fine?

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On 4/6/2023 at 10:35 PM, ssup2406 said:

Why isn't anyone talking about the S19 on here!? 

S19 is s18 just with more cells, speakers, weird trolley and colorful equalizer. S18 double slider suspension beat S22 rail rollers. For me, it is a mix of the worst from both worlds. City jumper without proper pads? :D

Maybe it will ride better than rs19 / t4, but even s22 has lackluster low-end torque. I still see the s18 like superior lightweight transportation. Obviously, they trying to use the same manufacturing process in the model lineup so they ending the s18 plastic design. Lets see some reviews first. So far not amazed - patton / s22 / comander mini looks better. 

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6 minutes ago, daniel1234 said:

Maybe it will ride better than rs19 / t4, but even s22 has lackluster low-end torque. I still see the s18 like superior lightweight transportation. Obviously, they trying to use the same manufacturing process in the model lineup so they ending the s18 plastic design. Lets see some reviews first. So far not amazed - patton / s22 / comander mini looks better. 

I don't believe they belong in the same class of wheels. 

If I am looking at the S22, Commander Mini or Patton, I don't think I would be considering the S19.

I would surmised that back when I was buying my V12, if the S19 was available, I think would have bought the S19. No way would I have bought the S22, Patton, or the Commander Mini, if they were available at the time too.

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On 4/13/2023 at 1:58 PM, NewB said:

I have some Clark Pads and am going to slap them on my S18. However, it appears the pads would make servicing my wheel more difficult. I have had my wheel apart twice already and will be taking it apart again to replace a battery cable guide. Has anyone installed Clark Pads with velcro? Do I have to remove the residue from the preinstalled tape, or will the velcro stick just fine?

The S18 specific Gen 2 pads? Yes.. no problem (using velcro). 

For taking off the existing KS pads that the Gen2 installs on top of (for servicing), I ended up gluing mine back. A mistake. Next time, I'd use velcro there too and I don't think existing residue would have to be removed.. at least with the velcro I buy (super sticky).

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On 4/14/2023 at 4:33 PM, level9 said:

The S18 specific Gen 2 pads? Yes.. no problem (using velcro). 

For taking off the existing KS pads that the Gen2 installs on top of (for servicing), I ended up gluing mine back. A mistake. Next time, I'd use velcro there too and I don't think existing residue would have to be removed.. at least with the velcro I buy (super sticky).

I went ahead and installed them using industrial-strength Velcro brand hook and loop.

Easy peasy. The hardest part was taking off the preinstalled tape that came on the Clark Pads. It took a while but was simple.

After I got the adhesive off of the Clark Pads, I stuck the hook side of the Velcro to the back of the pads. I used scissors and a very sharp knife to trim as close to the pads as possible. I was able to match the pads' curves pretty closely.

Next, I stuck the (fuzzy) wheel-side Velcro to the hook side Velcro (which was already mounted on the pads using the manufacturer's adhesive). Using my scissors and knife, I trimmed the fuzzy wheel-side Velcro to match the curves of the Clark Pad - just like I did with the hook side of the Velcro.

Lastly, I took the wheel side tape off and stuck the whole shebang to the wheel.

In order to allow for wheel disassembly, I took the pads off and cut the fuzzy Velcro that is attached to the wheel along the wheel's seams.

Edited (hopefully to clarify the process).

Edited by NewB
Typos.
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(Just documenting some info I found on this YouTube video, I was searching for this and couldn't find it earlier)
The S18 standard pedals weigh 362-363 grams each without the retaining rod, and the upcoming honeycomb ones are 368 grams each.
Source: This timestamped YouTube video where they are weighed on screen, cheers to its creator!

Edited by ssup2406
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  • 1 month later...

I ordered some FreeMotion CNC pedals for my wheel (to augment my Clark Pads). I was on a group ride (around 300 strong), and my feet almost slid off the pedals as I was hopping off a tall curb. I am not sure if there was dirt on my shoes or what, but it scared the hell out of me. There isn't a whole lot to choose from out there as far as pedals are concerned. With the number of units sold, one would think there would be more choices out there.

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52 minutes ago, NewB said:

and my feet almost slid off the pedals as I was hopping off a tall curb. I am not sure if there was dirt on my shoes or what, but it scared the hell out of me.

Its very odd but when I first started I felt and experienced similar situations to you but after a while it doesn't seem to be an issue anymore.  Its as if the feet kinda move with the wheel. I ride on trails with just the normal pedals too but I did replace the original grip tape with Skateboard (Thumbcutter) grip tape when I first got my wheel  . Does anyone else find this happens? I will get spiked pedals for my next wheel. I have been told they are so much better so you are definitely doing the right thing. 

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What do people think about seated riding in the s18? I see some concerns about how the motherboard is enclosed by the shell, so putting pressure there is a bad idea? But I never took that apart so I don't know how tight it actually is

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16 minutes ago, roro said:

so putting pressure there is a bad idea?

The experience I had when I got my wheel was if I tried sitting on the top case it would cut-out. I think the reason for this was because I had a faulty lift sensor. When I removed it I no longer had an issue. But I cannot say for sure this was the reason. I would recommend anyone thinking of riding the S18 to sit on it first to make sure their weight doesn't impact on the cover, motherboard or wheel.

The S18 isn't designed to be sat on but seems strong enough for 70-75Kg but I couldn't say for any other weight*.

If you ride yours seated and have had no issues its probably ok*.

The top case although plastic, very slippy and uncomfortable over potholes etc still seems pretty strong*.

* Take this advice at your own risk. This is only my opinion and does not in anyway mean it is safe and won't cause any injury to yourself or damage to your wheel. 

 

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6 hours ago, dycus said:

1. It has plastic ribs that go all around the edge of the mainboard, such that when you sit on it, all the weight is pressing on the edges of the PCB. PCB material (FR-4) does have high compressive strength as long as it's properly supported underneath, but that's definitely not a kind of force you should intentionally transfer through a PCB, especially with how close traces and components are to the edges.

Well spotted Sir! Listen to this man. The S18 is certainly not designed to be sat on and seeing the above even more so.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 5/31/2023 at 5:55 PM, The Brahan Seer said:

Its very odd but when I first started I felt and experienced similar situations to you but after a while it doesn't seem to be an issue anymore.  Its as if the feet kinda move with the wheel. I ride on trails with just the normal pedals too but I did replace the original grip tape with Skateboard (Thumbcutter) grip tape when I first got my wheel  . Does anyone else find this happens? I will get spiked pedals for my next wheel. I have been told they are so much better so you are definitely doing the right thing. 

The spiked pedals are a game changer. My feet feel married to the wheel now. It takes a bit more effort to change my stance, but they are certainly worth it. However, if someone is just cruising around and not hopping curbs or doing trails, the juice may not be worth the squeeze.

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  • 1 month later...

Not sure if I’m in the right thread but, I replaced the original battery with Molicell batteries. What a pain in the ass. I don’t have a garage so I’m working on the floor in my apt. Everything went well except three issues that are minor but really piss me off.

first, the rubber battery protector gaskets in the front, L shaped, are a real bitch to get set correctly. Almost impossible actually, the front ends flop around with nothing to hold onto. Couldn’t they come up with a better idea at KS? I mean seriously, it borders on insanity to make such a great suspension and then just cram some rubber gob in the front space between the shells pieces. Neither functional or pleasing asceticaly. Damn near impossible to reassemble correctly.
 

second, the front frame screws are too small for the battery frame where it mounts. So one side rattles because it’s loose and the other side pops out whenever it feels like it. I know, sure I can go get some bolts and nuts and fix it but Jesus Christ, one would think the frame battery holes would be the same size so as not to create this unneeded problem. 
 

Somehow the shell on both sides doesn’t align with the front headlamp. There’s about a 1cm gap between the edge of the lamp and the shell on both sides. How can this be? Any ideas other than “I think you put it back together wrong,” would be helpful. 
 

four hours of hell. I hope it’s worth it, my arm is bleeding, my dog thinks I’m pissed at him with all my screaming and I’m sure my neighbors think I murdered someone. How does anyone keep sane modding these EUCs? Im fucking wiped. NOT doing this again ever. Someone please make a shop near me that does this I will pay you whatever you want. 

Edited by ScottyWheel
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8 hours ago, ScottyWheel said:

How can this be? Any ideas other than “I think you put it back together wrong,” would be helpful. 

You have put it back together wrong. Forgive my description but the black plastic sides need to be pressed into the edge of the battery case (the plastic overlaps IIRC the metal battery box flat edge), atm you have the plastic sides sitting on the edge. Once you fix this the bolts will line up better too and they won't budge. Plus the light will fit properly, as well as the L-shaped rubber stop.

The S18 is a pain to work on and the plastic does break easily but you will get there.

Edited by The Brahan Seer
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