Steef Klonoa Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 Thanks @eve hope you get your wheel running again soon. This is a "safety" feature I don't want to mess around with. That cutout has me spooked, I'm just glad it never happened while I was riding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steef Klonoa Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 I have an android phone, looks like the soft tuner isn't available in the app store Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lukasz Posted October 11, 2020 Share Posted October 11, 2020 On 10/6/2020 at 7:45 AM, fbhb said: A totally different, but very impressive end result with this owner's "Blacked Out" Naked/Minimalist S18 custom job, don't you agree??? Just found out, courtesy of @Mike Sacristan that this custom job was created by @iWheel of Sweden Cheers Mike! There is specific balance between look nad functionality. There is certain trend in motor bikes for "naked" models, however this wheel is for sure "look" over functionality and safety. -Lack of side / front panels means very possible destruction of the battery packs in case of any fall (they are nicely packed, but in very thin aluminum profiles, dent may mean short circuit (fire) / destruction of the BMS). Lack of side panels means also decrease of control over they wheel. Also - in case of the fall the front edges of the main board cover may be destructed as now they are not protected - resulting in the broken battery connectors which are located on the front left and front right corners. This may main board failure. -Lack of fender/mud guard means that in case of the rain, riding on wet tarmac rider will have whole back wet and dirty, also the power cable routing had been modified - which changed the radius/way it bends - this may lead to quick wear of this cable - on hall sensor wires which are only 0,3 mm sq. and also on the power wires which are very stiff, and if bend on smaller radius - they will break soon. - S18 batery holder edges, and pedal base wedges are razor sharp - this is even bigger problem if there is no plastic panels which separate the rider from those edges - so in case of carrying the wheel up the stairs for example - it will cut your ankles/legs/trousers etc. But - if the look is most important and this wheel is an "form of art" with no need to ride it - sure - it will work great... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B08AH Posted October 11, 2020 Share Posted October 11, 2020 (edited) 14 hours ago, NastyFartPants said: inally, the finished result It all goes smooth up until you try and put the shock back in place and run into this Links on my unit were bent like that. Edited October 11, 2020 by B08AH 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexIsTheBest Posted October 11, 2020 Share Posted October 11, 2020 I expect my S18 to arrive sometime in the next week or so. I have been following the thread to keep up with all the upgrades, fixes, and also what to purchase in preparation. I am a tinkerer so I am excited to disassemble and upgrade (if needed of course). Besides the suspension test mentioned above (disconnect shock), what other fixes/upgrades should be my top priority, perhaps before even riding? I have seen a few things that I am considering purchasing, such as the Black Crow KingSong S18 motor wire protector). Are there any other purchases that you guys reccomend? That said, what can I expect to be fixed/upgraded with this latest batch, if anything? Also, I REALLY like Lukasz's battery upgrade and I plan to do this or something similar eventually: Thanks everyone for all of the helpful posting! So excited to get this beauty soon! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridgeboy Posted October 11, 2020 Share Posted October 11, 2020 13 minutes ago, AlexIsTheBest said: Are there any other purchases that you guys reccomend? Full safety gear if you didn't already get it. Full-face helmet, elbow pads, and knee pads at a minimum. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FinRider Posted October 11, 2020 Share Posted October 11, 2020 Can anyone share their experiences with the tiltback on the S18? I rode 50km yesterday, drained the battery down to 5-6% at idle. Last few km I rode at 30 km/h and never got a tiltback... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simply_Striking Posted October 11, 2020 Share Posted October 11, 2020 (edited) 9 minutes ago, FinRider said: Can anyone share their experiences with the tiltback on the S18? I rode 50km yesterday, drained the battery down to 5-6% at idle. Last few km I rode at 30 km/h and never got a tiltback... If you ride it slow you will not get tilt back until the very end. Edited October 11, 2020 by Simply_Striking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridgeboy Posted October 11, 2020 Share Posted October 11, 2020 6 minutes ago, FinRider said: Can anyone share their experiences with the tiltback on the S18? I rode 50km yesterday, drained the battery down to 5-6% at idle. Last few km I rode at 30 km/h and never got a tiltback... I get tilt-back around 27-28 MPH even though I have it set to not tilt-back until 31 MPH. At lower than 50% battery (estimating) it tilts-back at even lower speeds, perhaps 25 MPH. I definitely noticed the tilt-back happening at lower speeds when the battery starts draining. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexIsTheBest Posted October 11, 2020 Share Posted October 11, 2020 2 hours ago, Bridgeboy said: Full safety gear if you didn't already get it. Full-face helmet, elbow pads, and knee pads at a minimum. Thanks! I got that stuff, specifically I’m asking about S18 fixes/upgrades. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FinRider Posted October 11, 2020 Share Posted October 11, 2020 3 minutes ago, Bridgeboy said: I get tilt-back around 27-28 MPH even though I have it set to not tilt-back until 31 MPH. At lower than 50% battery (estimating) it tilts-back at even lower speeds, perhaps 25 MPH. I definitely noticed the tilt-back happening at lower speeds when the battery starts draining. I am not a fast rider, i have the speed limit set to 40km/h and 2nd lvl warning at 38 km/h which I have yet to surpass. I did hit the 2nd lvl warning on my way home, battery was probably at 30% then... just curious why I didnt get tiltbacks, as I would have expected it when I dropped below 10% 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridgeboy Posted October 11, 2020 Share Posted October 11, 2020 1 minute ago, FinRider said: I am not a fast rider, i have the speed limit set to 40km/h and 2nd lvl warning at 38 km/h which I have yet to surpass. I did hit the 2nd lvl warning on my way home, battery was probably at 30% then... just curious why I didnt get tiltbacks, as I would have expected it when I dropped below 10% I can only guess because you don't push the wheel hard. I naturally compare the S18 to my 18XL since that is what I learned on, and the 18XL, with the larger battery pack does not tilt-back until 31-MPH and doesn't start tilting-back sooner until below 25% battery. I definitely notice sooner tilting-back on the S18 compared to the 18XL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexIsTheBest Posted October 11, 2020 Share Posted October 11, 2020 10 minutes ago, Bridgeboy said: I get tilt-back around 27-28 MPH even though I have it set to not tilt-back until 31 MPH. At lower than 50% battery (estimating) it tilts-back at even lower speeds, perhaps 25 MPH. I definitely noticed the tilt-back happening at lower speeds when the battery starts draining. Wow that’s the most scary report I’ve read so far! Can you explain how the tilt-back feels to a noob like myself? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridgeboy Posted October 11, 2020 Share Posted October 11, 2020 5 minutes ago, AlexIsTheBest said: Thanks! I got that stuff, specifically I’m asking about S18 fixes/upgrades. You could replace all the bolts with high-strength variants. The ones Kingsong used are extremely soft metal. I'm currently stuck right now because I stripped out the Allen heads of two bolts on my shock assembly because the metal is so soft. Be careful taking your S18 apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FinRider Posted October 11, 2020 Share Posted October 11, 2020 Just now, AlexIsTheBest said: Wow that’s the most scary report I’ve read so far! Can you explain how the tilt-back feels to a noob like myself? On my ks16c the tiltback will literally tilt the pedals bckwards to prevent you from going faster. On the small wheel that comes at 30km/h together witha nice audible PLEASE DECELERATE warning. Its very slow and progressive, a nice safety feature... but I have not had it on my s18 so I dont know how aggressive this new wheel is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FinRider Posted October 11, 2020 Share Posted October 11, 2020 1 minute ago, Bridgeboy said: You could replace all the bolts with high-strength variants. The ones Kingsong used are extremely soft metal. I'm currently stuck right now because I stripped out the Allen heads of two bolts on my shock assembly because the metal is so soft. Be careful taking your S18 apart. Amen to this! Good tools are key, even having a heat gun close by may be needed as they have randomly used locktite... and only god knows which kind... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridgeboy Posted October 11, 2020 Share Posted October 11, 2020 2 minutes ago, AlexIsTheBest said: Wow that’s the most scary report I’ve read so far! Can you explain how the tilt-back feels to a noob like myself? It's just a little startling and makes you feel like you're going to fall forward, but you don't...it's just the sensation of falling forward. It's meant to get your attention so you lean back and stop accelerating. It's a safety feature to get you to stop accelerating so you don't risk cut-out. The program just tilts the pedals back by a degree or two, which to your brain, makes you think you're falling forward, so you instinctively lean back. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexIsTheBest Posted October 11, 2020 Share Posted October 11, 2020 22 minutes ago, Bridgeboy said: You could replace all the bolts with high-strength variants. The ones Kingsong used are extremely soft metal. I'm currently stuck right now because I stripped out the Allen heads of two bolts on my shock assembly because the metal is so soft. Be careful taking your S18 apart. Good to know, I saw your earlier post and it made me think about how few tools I have because I’ve temporarily relocated, I feel so naked! Do you happen to know what size the suspension hex bolts are? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FinRider Posted October 11, 2020 Share Posted October 11, 2020 31 minutes ago, AlexIsTheBest said: Good to know, I saw your earlier post and it made me think about how few tools I have because I’ve temporarily relocated, I feel so naked! Do you happen to know what size the suspension hex bolts are? Size 5 allen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridgeboy Posted October 12, 2020 Share Posted October 12, 2020 3 hours ago, AlexIsTheBest said: Good to know, I saw your earlier post and it made me think about how few tools I have because I’ve temporarily relocated, I feel so naked! Do you happen to know what size the suspension hex bolts are? 5 mm. Which is what I used and they still stripped into circles. That also happened to one of my pedal hanger bolts, but it was easier to get to so I was able to get it out with an easy-out bit and then I dremeled a slot on the head and used a large flathead screw driver to put it back. The interior of the shock assembly is much more difficult to get to. I'd rather have the dealer (eWheels) fix it as this point, but I'm still waiting to hear from them on it. In the meantime I'm loving my Sherman 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexIsTheBest Posted October 12, 2020 Share Posted October 12, 2020 (edited) 14 hours ago, Bridgeboy said: 5 mm. Which is what I used and they still stripped into circles. That also happened to one of my pedal hanger bolts, but it was easier to get to so I was able to get it out with an easy-out bit and then I dremeled a slot on the head and used a large flathead screw driver to put it back. The interior of the shock assembly is much more difficult to get to. I'd rather have the dealer (eWheels) fix it as this point, but I'm still waiting to hear from them on it. In the meantime I'm loving my Sherman I wonder if a 7/32” (5.56 mm) hex key would fit tighter than the 5 mm. Or is it just that the metal is junky or something? Edited October 12, 2020 by AlexIsTheBest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridgeboy Posted October 12, 2020 Share Posted October 12, 2020 12 hours ago, AlexIsTheBest said: I wonder if a 7/32” (5.56 mm) hex key would fit tighter than the 5 mm. Or is it just that the metal is junky or something? The metal is like butter. I tried fitting a 5.5mm in there and it did not fit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the0r1st Posted October 12, 2020 Share Posted October 12, 2020 reason for wearing full face helmet: 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexIsTheBest Posted October 12, 2020 Share Posted October 12, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, Bridgeboy said: The metal is like butter. I tried fitting a 5.5mm in there and it did not fit. Bummer, I wonder if I should ask the shop to loosen them for me before shipping. Then I’ll just replace them when it gets here. Nevermind, that’s silly. Edited October 12, 2020 by AlexIsTheBest 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted October 12, 2020 Share Posted October 12, 2020 5 hours ago, Bridgeboy said: The metal is like butter. I tried fitting a 5.5mm in there and it did not fit. 3 hours ago, AlexIsTheBest said: I wonder if I should ask the shop to loosen them for me before shipping. it appears we all are having issues loosening the S18’s suspension screws and barrel nuts. Being I had some spare OEM barrel nuts and screws from my suspension overhaul I decided to experiment loosening a loctited assembly using heat from a soldering iron. I applied the thread locker today and will wait until tomorrow to see if the soldering iron method works. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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