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Lukasz

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Everything posted by Lukasz

  1. In real world - You will use "acceleration" in every ride, and You will use "speed over 35mph" very seldom or never unless You are speed demon. Dangers of accident crashing at high speed without full gear / FF helmet (or even when fully protected) are quite high. It may be caused by dog, pedestrian, hole in the road, slippery leaves, or thousand of other causes not related to rider direct other error (as too high speed will be the rider main error in such case) So - except a few speed freaks - torque version is more practical solution for most users.
  2. In fact current "full set" include: front acceleration pads with soft inserts rear breaking pads with soft inserts pedal openers / legs cutting protectors power cable axis protector front bumpers
  3. Yes - coke cans method can work also if You do not want to unscrew the axis completely / or file the gray sliders. Please be extremely careful in case of beer cans use!
  4. To determine if gray sliders are aligned - If it moves with friction/hard when 4 screws of the axis holder are all tight, and moves freely if you unscrew 2 of them (external ones) on one side of the wheel this is probably the alignment problem...
  5. Check if surface which axle touches (on both sliders) had been machined. In my case only one of those surfaces had been machined, second one was covered by gray paint, so they were not aligned properly. Simple solution is to remove the motor, put suspension together so it is all screwed together to the working conditions, put the wheel upside down, take big file and carefully file this untreated surface - slowly keeping the file aligned with second side - this must be done with caution, and just enough to allow the axis to sit well in the slider mounts, so when screwed together - that sliders stay aligned and move freely on the black pipes
  6. Two tiny air springs 60 mm stroke, with no reverse chambers, no rebound, located in such way that they will get wet and dirty during the ride... this does not look good all together...
  7. Correct. however the un-suspended part weights 20 kg - but this is 3.6 kW motor - huge bearings, a lot of thick metal stuff in suspension - so the rest - batteries, board, chassis - weights around 19 kg - this wheel is almost 39kg!
  8. Taking about firmware features - another issue worth taking care of - @Jack King Song can You please add in the software the option to allow the rider to set the speed at which the "long beam" is turned on? It is by default now at 10 km/h which is too low speed in my opinion. It shall be either increased to 20 or 25 km/h or user adjustable. Long beam SHINES into the eyes of incoming traffic / bikers / people (this shall be addressed in the upgrade of the LED positions in the next release of the lamp)
  9. Who likes behavior of the carrying mode in firmware 2.06? Wheel has no torque at all with handle rised, falls to front/back, also when handle is moved down to riding position - toque is not supplied back until you "hunt" for it moving the wheel front/back. @Jack King Song - please revert it to the previous mode, or allow users to select how it works. In my personal opinion it was solved better in the firmware 2.05 In practical city life FW 2,06 makes the return from the carrying mode SOOO PROBLEMATIC - THIS STUPID IDEA MAKING the carrying mode partially USELESS KINGSONG PLEASE CHANGE IT BACK TO PREVIOUS WAY - IT WORKED WELL in FW 2.05!
  10. Who likes behavior of the carrying mode in firmware 2.06? Wheel has no torque at all, falls to front/back, also when handle is moved down to riding position - toque is not supplied back until you "hunt" for it moving the wheel front/back. @Jack King Song - please revert it to the previous mode, or allow users to select how it works. In my personal opinion it was solved better in in firmware 2.05
  11. Taking the opportunity of the group potential - maybe we have somebody with experience in oils/lubricants... I have heard that suspension pipes in S18 shall be oiled using stanchion fluoro oil. I have found it on the net - but in 15 grams bottles - cost around 12 USD... this means that 1 liter of this oil cost around 800 USD ! this is quite expensive .... We do not need a lot of this oil, but I sometimes refuse to pay such a premium price to some company which buys a can of some kind of industrial oil, fills micro-bottles and sell with hefty profit... - so anyone with such experience here who can suggest what kind of oil it really is?
  12. In S18 "Third" battery is exactly the same as the two front ones - there is no "weaker" battery in the set - 3rd series of cells is just divided into 2 boxes to fit them on the back of the wheel. Adding 4th series of batteries is not making "Third" battery stronger - it is making the 20s4p setup instead of 20s3p setup. all series are (and must be!) EQUAL
  13. Taking the opportunity of the group potential - maybe we have somebody with experience in oils/lubricants... I have heard that suspension pipes shall be oiled using stanchion fluoro oil. I have found it on the net - but in 15 grams bottles - cost around 12 USD... this means that 1 liter of this oil cost around 800 USD ! this is quite expensive .... We do not need a lot of this oil, but I sometimes refuse to pay such a premium price to some company which buys a can of some kind of industrial oil, fills micro-bottles and sell with hefty profit... - so anyone with such experience here who can suggest what kind of oil it really is?
  14. S18 has 3 independent batteries connected to the main board - two front 84V batteries build from 20 cells, and third battery build from two back 42V batteries build from 10 cells connected in series, connected in paralel with two front ones. Additional batteries are 10 cells each, connected in paralel to the back batteries. This whole setup works as each battery pack has its own BMS.
  15. Please consult included picture from construction process - rear batteries must be connected in paralel - left rear with another left rear (all wires) and right rear with another right rear - also all the wires - be careful to ensure that battery voltage is exactly the same before attempting to connect them together and do not mismatch wires. Due to the shape of batteries I have placed them on the reverse sides - so additional rear left battery is installed on the front right, and rear right goes into front left. Cables must be managed under the mainboard cover - which must be cut a bit on the inside. Please note the places I have connected the wires - in the upper part of the plastic channels - one by one - in separate places so it fits well in the channels - this must be soldered really well, and insulated properly. Please ensure that You have experience with soldering before this job, use the same wire thickness - AWG14 for power and AWG20 for control wires. Use XT-90I male connectors for the connection.
  16. KS18XL has now 1440Wh batery setup 20s4p which is exactly the same as Inmotion V11. Range is of course higher, but the term "range" is subjective - and there is "hassle free" range - where You have no range anxiety NOR care about lower speed to increase range etc, and the various "range tests" where You limit Your speed / acceleration etc. to "reach" as far as You can, and in this situation You care about rider weight, terrain profile, accelerations, full charge or instead of 90% initial charge, wind, tire pressure, max speed, average speed, many other factors. I charge my wheels usually to the end of constant current phase (so around 90 %) after each ride (every day basically), and before the weekends to 100% including balancing phase (so to the end of the constant voltage phase where current goes down to 0,01A) Real world hassle-free range is 40-50 km, (with speeds up to 45km/h with my full protection+backpack+helmet riding weight around 85 kg) - you can see my usual riding suit in the YT below. In warm weather and moderate speeds this can increase to 60+ km maybe more, but in my riding pattern I really seldom need higher range. In case of the longer trips I can always take with me my super light charger which is 0.5kg only and offers 4.8A / 9A charging current (although I have NOT tested 9A charging as I am afraid that it may fry the pcb) as this charger offers around 370Wh of charge per hour on low setting - this give me sufficient charging speed, so when I stop for rest I can find the place to recharge.
  17. There is specific balance between look nad functionality. There is certain trend in motor bikes for "naked" models, however this wheel is for sure "look" over functionality and safety. -Lack of side / front panels means very possible destruction of the battery packs in case of any fall (they are nicely packed, but in very thin aluminum profiles, dent may mean short circuit (fire) / destruction of the BMS). Lack of side panels means also decrease of control over they wheel. Also - in case of the fall the front edges of the main board cover may be destructed as now they are not protected - resulting in the broken battery connectors which are located on the front left and front right corners. This may main board failure. -Lack of fender/mud guard means that in case of the rain, riding on wet tarmac rider will have whole back wet and dirty, also the power cable routing had been modified - which changed the radius/way it bends - this may lead to quick wear of this cable - on hall sensor wires which are only 0,3 mm sq. and also on the power wires which are very stiff, and if bend on smaller radius - they will break soon. - S18 batery holder edges, and pedal base wedges are razor sharp - this is even bigger problem if there is no plastic panels which separate the rider from those edges - so in case of carrying the wheel up the stairs for example - it will cut your ankles/legs/trousers etc. But - if the look is most important and this wheel is an "form of art" with no need to ride it - sure - it will work great...
  18. There is specific balance between look nad functionality. There is certain trend in motor bikes for "naked" models, however this wheel is for sure "look" over functionality and safety. -Lack of side / front panels means very possible destruction of the battery packs in case of any fall (they are nicely packed, but in very thin aluminum profiles, dent may mean short circuit (fire) / destruction of the BMS). Also - in case of the fall the front edges of the main board cover may be destructed as now they are not protected - resulting in the broken battery connectors which are located on the front left and front right corners. This may main board failure -Lack of fender/mud guard means that in case of the rain, riding on wet tarmac rider will have whole back wet and dirty, also the power cable routing had been modified - which changed the radius/way it bends - this may lead to quick wear of this cable - on hall sensor wires which are only 0,3 mm sq. and also on the power wires which are very stiff, and if bend on smaller radius - they will break soon. - S18 batery holder edges, and pedal base wedges are razor sharp - this is even bigger problem if there is no plastic panels which separate the rider from those edges - so in case of carrying the wheel up the stairs for example - it will cut your ankles/legs/trousers etc. But - if the look is most important and this wheel is an "form of art" with no need to ride it - sure - it will work great...
  19. Can You please also measure those distances:
  20. Can You please measure the size of the bearing (internal diameter / external diameter and the width) ? Those are huge bearings - they add weight, but the whole wheel will be quite stiff and run for long time
  21. Trolley handle is a JOKE, I am really looking forward for the test ride - is it really worth to carry all this 39 kg with You all the time...
  22. I wish You fast recovery. there are two things to notice: 1- Grip tape is really not enough, especially if we think that S18 is kind of "offroad" wheel - I almost fell from my S18 pedals when it was wet - they get slippery - I have immediately added screws to the pedals, but finally next week there will be NYLON pedals with stainless pins ready for S18 - check on the S18XL thread - I will post pics there. 2- Speed wobble are related to the tire pressure - as S18 is suspension wheel - people have tendency to pump the tire to 35 psi or higher - resulting in low contact surface of the tire with tarmac, which can lead to wobble especially when breaking. Pump your tire to lower pressure - For MSX I use 24 psi, so for S18 I have pumped it to 28psi. Just be aware that such pressure does not allow to hit curbs with zero attention, also - tire + shock absorber working together offer much higher comfort.
  23. As the batteries in S18 are separate units each with own BMS - fuses in each battery - especially with additional battery in the system seems to be OK. Short circuits may happen during the major crash - so fuse can protect the wheel from fire.
  24. Work is almost done - slime added ot the tire - the last thing to add is nylon pedals which should arrive next week.
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