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FinRider

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FinRider last won the day on August 12 2020

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About FinRider

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Kauniainen, Finland
  • EUC
    KS16C, KS S18

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  1. I started down this route last spring when I got hooked on this crazy means of transportation. I found a $400 ks16b/c on the forum. It had more than 8k miles on it and I put on another 2-3... it is still pulling strong and I get about 35km to a charge. And believe me, I have dropped it tons of times and then at the end of the summer I used it to get my buddy riding. Its a win-win.. plus, when my s18 is down for repairs I can still putty around on my “starter” wheel. no need to spend big bucks, you can get great deals on used v5’s ks16, v8’s etc. just something small and easy. Battery size
  2. It was my wheel that @mrelwood was referring to. We literally could not get it to extend, no matter how much force we used.. it was very evident why this was the case after tearing the wheel apart. I had all the issues from the 1st batch that you can imagine. Metal rubbing on metal, bearings not working and mis-aligned.. But that is in the past now, so let me chime in with my 2 cents on this topic as well. Both the S18 and the V11 has its cult followings. Both wheels have their own set of issues and challenges. But lets not turn this discussion into a bash fest as honestly, both wheels a
  3. This battery topic has been discussed so many times and everyone seems to have a different opinion on whats "best" or "healthiest" for our beloved EUC's. I think we can all agree that the worst that can happen is for a pack to be "destroyed", be it not taking a charge anymore or, god forbid, catching fire. IMHO we should not make this into rocket science. We tend to upgrade our wheels way faster than the battery degrades anyways. During my riding season (more than +5C) I probably ride every day, often on very short notice. So I let the wheel "cool off" for about 30 minutes after
  4. I did the same test on my wheels, and both have stayed within 1V after hibernating for 3 months as well. This is for the KS S-18 and KS 16-b/c. I left both at a 75% charge before putting them away.
  5. Taking the battery down to 0% is nothing to be afraid of. When the EUC (app) shows 0% it does not mean that the battery is empty, it is just as empty as you are allowed to bring it. I have plugin hybrid (Mitsubishi Outlander) that has a 12 kWH battery. When the car has an empty battery indicates as 0% charge left by the car it actually still has about 3.5 kWH left of juice. I know this because charging the car from empty to full uses uses 8.55 KWH per my charger. I have not measured my EUC's to see what the total charge capacity is but I will do so in the spring when I start riding a
  6. This is an old thread that has been beaten to an inch of its death a couple of times already but simply won't die. I have a hard time understanding the logic where the company should be completely abandoned just because some people do not want to play by the rules (violate laws and regulations). The facts are simple and indisputable. LockSong has (at least) 2 types of wheels, one aimed for the Peoples Republic of China (domestic market) and one for export. The wheels for export have been designated with the letter "P" in the serial number. LockSong has repeatedly released thei
  7. I am using a 5A on my 680Wh 16 b/c and have not had any issues. Wheel has more than 10K km on it and still charges to 100%. I use the stock charger when not in a rush and the 5A charger when topping up between rides so I can continue to go at it again. I have "upgraded" to the S18 since, so this wheel is my spare and my buddy has been learning on it with me. He is about 110kg with gear and he gets about 30km range still from the wheel. I have to say that I am impressed with the little sucker.
  8. My guess would be a bent axle if the hangers are straight..
  9. Kunha se olisi 14 bar (200 psi) niin ostaisin... S18 vaatii sen verran siihen kaasujouseen. Olen etsinyt sellaista... alista saa 150psi vastaavia.. pitää kai etsiä vielä jos löytysis akkukäyttöinen 15psi+.
  10. Well, this isn’t a forum for trolls as no sane person would venture into these realms and actually start reading what we blabber about. Thats where the comraderie comes from. i will chime in with my $0.02 as I was in your shoes about a year ago. I drove home from work one day and this dude (thanks @mrelwood) drove past me. I had to go home to look up what the heck he was riding and decided on the spot to give it a go. I also did not know a soul who had one, so i had to learn it all on my own... youtube is your friend but boy did it take time for me.. I decided to get my started wheel
  11. I am sorry for hijacking the thread a bit, but I will write a summary of my own findings when I am done. Today did not start off so well. I got the wheel back together, connected the batteries and powered it on. It started beeping like crazy and would not shut down. The beep sequence (I will post a video) was short-short-short-long. Apparently this is a KS S18 fault mode. I fired up the KS app and it told me that the firmware had not finished updating. I tried doing the update and it failed several times. I then fished out my old android so I could connect EUC World, and it said the same
  12. So my assembly day did not go as planned. The wife wanted to go ice-skating so I only got a couple of hours of work done. have i ever mentioned how much I hate changing tires? It was a bitch getting the H-666 mounted.. but it is done now. I still need to work the tire a bit as it is not fully centered on the rim... but good enough for now. Fits nicely inside the fender. Pics to follow. The suspension movement is smooth as butter now. I did however find the source of the ”clunking” noise that i have experienced when the suspension bottoms out. It is the lower bolt on the pivot arm tha
  13. Winter is upon us so my riding days for the next 3-4 months will be limited. So i decided it was time to tear down the s18 and do some work to the suspension. This thread has been invaluable, and the official ks disassembly video is great! A couple of notes. my left side pivot arm opening is also 11mm insteadof 10mm as fbhb explained in his post. I still need to address this... I had already fixed the middle joint of the pivot arms with PTFE washers. These are good and no need for further attention the top fixing point by the mother board for the pivot arms is the bigg
  14. This is a question for the cold weather riders: Do you use any ”self heated” gear? I started my EUC career last spring and my pain threshold is 5 degrees celsius (about 40ish F). I miss my daily riding tremendously and I am considering adding a studded tire to my old KS16C... just so I can ride again. on Aliexpress they have an abundance of heated insoles, socks, vests, gloves, etc. I wonder if I could decrease my ”pain threshold” if I used something like this?
  15. Did you get a response? The stand is made by the KingSong dealer in Taiwan. Their webpage is only available in Chinese. I called my colleague at our branch in Shanghai and he is trying to reach out to them to see if they would consider making kits of these and sell/ship to Europe/Usa.
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