Begode Master 134V 2400WH Suspension

[Valentin Lambert]

9 hours ago, Wgm said:

J'ai un maître V1 et j'ai installé une carte mère V2. Je n'ai pas branché de ventilateur et je ne dépasse pas 50 degrés Celsius. Excellente mise à niveau de puissance également.

Moi j'ai une Master v1, mais je n'est pas de ventilateur sur la carte mère. Du coup j'ai demandé à mon shop extrêmeshop sur aliexpress et il mon dit que je devais changer la sous carte mère avec la carte mère mais les batteries ne serai pas compatible. Car v1 et v2 pas pareil. Je suis perdu 

[BlckRck2014]

Sadly there seems to be a v1.5 controller board.  I have one.  I have also worked on v1 and v2 units.  Here is how to quickly tell them apart:

• v1 has three capacitors that are placed next to each other (almost touching).  No metal backing to the board.  With a fan.
• v1.5 has three capacitors that are placed in a spaced out format.  There is metal backing to the board.  No fan.
• v2 has only two capacitors and they are larger.  There is metal backing to the board.  No fan.  The display board is different.

[Paul g]

17 minutes ago, BlckRck2014 said:

Sadly there seems to be a v1.5 controller board.  I have one.  I have also worked on v1 and v2 units.  Here is how to quickly tell them apart:

• v1 has three capacitors that are placed next to each other (almost touching).  No metal backing to the board.  With a fan.
• v1.5 has three capacitors that are placed in a spaced out format.  There is metal backing to the board.  No fan.
• v2 has only two capacitors and they are larger.  There is metal backing to the board.  No fan.  The display board is different.

Capacitors don’t get hot, unless faulty.

[Kutvis]

On 7/26/2022 at 10:50 AM, Valentin Lambert said:

Moi j'ai une Master v1, mais je n'est pas de ventilateur sur la carte mère. Du coup j'ai demandé à mon shop extrêmeshop sur aliexpress et il mon dit que je devais changer la sous carte mère avec la carte mère mais les batteries ne serai pas compatible. Car v1 et v2 pas pareil. Je suis perdu 

Google translate:
"I have a Master v1, but I don't have a fan on the motherboard. So I asked my extremeshop on aliexpress and he told me that I had to change the motherboard sub with the motherboard but the batteries would not be compatible. Because v1 and v2 are not the same. I am lost"

If my google translate is correct this is exactly what I was talking about:

On 7/22/2022 at 2:09 PM, Kutvelo said:

What I'm after is Gotway giving clear info such as: "we are going to do these changes because of.." and "even though we are making considerable updates to our wheel, we will continue to deliver spare parts for the #1 series and update firmware to be more safe".. or something like this.

• At the moment GW is most likely trying to stop delivering spare parts and firmware updates to #1 series early, I'm most happy to be wrong, but untill we get some fair information from the manufacturer.. russian telegram we trust

 

 

Edited August 2, 2022 by Kutvelo

[James Kiely]

On 7/3/2022 at 9:15 PM, Wgm said:

Switched to V2 control board and it's totally different.  Way more easy power.  Better medium mode by far.  Soft mode now mostly works except at slow speeds.   But holy crap I feel for people who tried V1 and don't get a taste of the real master.  Its night and day.  Its like they were using RS firmware or something and now it's all master.  So much power!  Also switch was so easy 

 

I just recieved mine from Wheel Rider store... How did you tell which board you had?

[Wgm]

46 minutes ago, James Kiely said:

I just recieved mine from Wheel Rider store... How did you tell which board you had?

Open it up.  Was def V1.  There are pics on the net.  You prob have v3 

[James Kiely]

2 hours ago, Wgm said:

Open it up.  Was def V1.  There are pics on the net.  You prob have v3 

I opened it and looks like V1 maybe 1.5

Edited August 5, 2022 by James Kiely
.

[Wgm]

1 hour ago, James Kiely said:

I opened it and looks like V1 maybe 1.5

Take off screen bit, beneath is the control board and you can tell by the capacitors.

[MTurcotte]

On 7/3/2022 at 6:15 PM, Wgm said:

Switched to V2 control board and it's totally different.  Way more easy power.  Better medium mode by far.  Soft mode now mostly works except at slow speeds.   But holy crap I feel for people who tried V1 and don't get a taste of the real master.  Its night and day.  Its like they were using RS firmware or something and now it's all master.  So much power!  Also switch was so easy 

 

I am confused with those board versions.  From what I know, there is a control board v1.0, v1.5 and v2.0.

According to a previous post, the difference between v1 and v2 can be determined by the number of capacitors on the control board
(as shown in the illustration below)

What I do not understand is that user Wgm said On 7/3/2022 at 6:15 PM:
  “Switched to V2 control board and it's totally different.  Way more easy power…”

But the v2 control board is supposed to be NOT COMPATIBLE with the v1 board
(v2 boards expect 67V (134/2V) battery packs).

Question to user ‘Wgm’ (and all others who might understand more than I do):
-> Do you mean ‘Switched to v1.5’ ?   instead of v2 control board?
-> If you really mean switched to v2, did you change your battery packs?

Question for everyone:
-> How do we recognize if I have v1.5?  is it really the presence of a fan?
    The comment above from Wgm suggest there should be a real difference between v1 and v1.5?

My understanding is that v1.5 does not have a fan; it might be v1 without any fan connected or it might be a different board.

My goal is to understand if I have a board that can be switched to a better board without the need to replace the battery packs.

Michel T., confused

Edited August 6, 2022 by MTurcotte

[Wgm]

59 minutes ago, MTurcotte said:

I am confused with those board versions.  From what I know, there is a control board v1.0, v1.5 and v2.0.

According to a previous post, the difference between v1 and v2 can be determined by the number of capacitors on the control board
(as shown in the illustration below)

What I do not understand is that user Wgm said On 7/3/2022 at 6:15 PM:
  “Switched to V2 control board and it's totally different.  Way more easy power…”

But the v2 control board is supposed to be NOT COMPATIBLE with the v1 board
(v2 boards expect 67V (134/2V) battery packs).

Question to user ‘Wgm’ (and all others who might understand more than I do):
-> Do you mean ‘Switched to v1.5’ ?   instead of v2 control board?
-> If you really mean switched to v2, did you change your battery packs?

Question for everyone:
-> How do we recognize if I have v1.5?  is it really the presence of a fan?
    The comment above from Wgm suggest there should be a real difference between v1 and v1.5?

My understanding is that v1.5 does not have a fan; it might be v1 without any fan connected or it might be a different board.

My goal is to understand if I have a board that can be switched to a better board without the need to replace the battery packs.

Michel T., confused

It's prob V1.5 that got with more spaced out capacitors and a metal bottom that I replaced.  If shown pics I can tell them each apart. I didn't replace anything else.  I will say the firmware that came with 1.5 or whatever it is def feels more responsive.

 

 

[omshree]

The seat material is sub-acceptable, crumbles like bread, also ridiculously expensive, anybody do  high quality seat, exept Clark? His is only compatible with Clarkpads.

[Cerbera]

1 minute ago, omshree said:

The seat material is sub-acceptable, crumbles like bread, also ridiculously expensive, anybody do  high quality seat, exept Clark? His is only compatible with Clarkpads.

Apart from installing another seat, has anyone tried anything to mitigate that yet ? What sort of thing could we use to make it more durable ? I suppose we could always go nuts with the gaffa tape, but it would be really nice if there was a much less crappy looking alternative...

 

 

[UtahRider]

22 hours ago, omshree said:

The seat material is sub-acceptable, crumbles like bread, also ridiculously expensive, anybody do  high quality seat, exept Clark? His is only compatible with Clarkpads.

Not true. Sai and Grizla pads fit fine, I tried all 3 (Clark’s included) and like Grizlas marginally better but Clark’s feels great too, just a tad harder than Grizla pads for me.

[omshree]

2 hours ago, UtahRider said:

Not true. Sai and Grizla pads fit fine, I tried all 3 (Clark’s included) and like Grizlas marginally better but Clark’s feels great too, just a tad harder than Grizla pads for me.

Have the Kinetic Large pads, they seem too bid for the small surface.

[Raptor]

Hi !   I Ok . Now it is completely silent!  The slide bushings needed very little tightening. The gyro seems a bit too sensitive and overreacts even with very little play. Care must be taken when tightening the tensioning screws of these bushings! If you try a little harder, the suspension sliders get stuck!!!

(  Has anyone else experienced this behavior and sound with the Begode Master and is this a feature or defect of this model  ?  )

 

Edited August 10, 2022 by Raptor

[MTurcotte]

2 hours ago, Raptor said:

Hi ! Has anyone else experienced this behavior and sound with the Begode Master and is this a feature or defect of this model  ?

 

It is hard to be certain for us viewers that this sound does not come from the wood beams under the wheel.
But if this sound comes from the Master, I would look into replacing the motor.

[BleepBloopBlop]

I'd guess that is a controller issue. My EXN had similar symptoms. They thought it was either a controller or hall sensor issue. The warranty covered my replacement controller. 

[EMA]

10 hours ago, Raptor said:

Hi ! Has anyone else experienced this behavior and sound with the Begode Master and is this a feature or defect of this model  ?

 

your sliders probably are a bit loose, there are some headless screws you need to check, just need to remove rear batteries.

do not overtight to create stiction

 

https://ecodrift.ru/2022/05/21/begode-master-razbiraem/

Edited August 9, 2022 by EMA

[fbhb]

Chance Hinz posted on Facebook today that his very, very recently purchased 40T Master (has already sold his 50E Master) has blown it's BMS rendering the wheel unusable:

Electric Unicycle dot org EUC | My master 40t is dead, blew the 30amp fuses on the bms 😞😞😞 so much for racing the master at the Amped games | Facebook

Edited August 9, 2022 by fbhb

[mrelwood]

So which one is the correct new Master battery diagram since batch #2?

A:

Or B:

[EMA]

16 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

So which one is the correct new Master battery diagram since batch #2?

B

each side has 2 67v batteries in series

Edited August 9, 2022 by EMA

[Freeforester]

17 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

So which one is the correct new Master battery diagram since batch #2?

A:

Or B:

Gosh, you managed to get a hold of the original, official Begode electrical engineer plans, I see….

[meepmeepmayer]

12 minutes ago, Freeforester said:

Gosh, you managed to get a hold of the original, official Begode electrical engineer plans, I see….

You're cute. You believe they have plans?

[mike_bike_kite]

Do we get a picture of what the current packs look like?

And does anyone know why the new set up better than something like the current 1800Wh packs?

[Tawpie]

47 minutes ago, mike_bike_kite said:

And does anyone know why the new set up better

Without knowing anything more than the appearance of the "redundant" word and referring to paralleling packs, the thought is that it should be better because the OG design allowed a failure in any single pack to shut power completely off. Paralleling 'should' reduce the odds of pack-failure induced catastrophic power loss by half. But the devil is in the details.

EDIT: one of many hiding spots for the devil

Given that "b"is the new arrangement, if a single pack should get disconnected, there is a sibling 'leg' to continue to hold up the total voltage and supply current. The leg with the failed pack is out of circuit. However, this single leg is now asked to supply the current that was shared with the now-dead sibling leg so you don't want to ride for long in this configuration. It's quite within the realm of imagination that a BMS fuse in the surviving pack or the one it's connect to could blow and that has the effect of a complete power cutoff. We used to call this a cascading failure mode.

Edited August 9, 2022 by Tawpie