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Begode Master 134V 2400WH Suspension


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1 hour ago, EMA said:

once you have the master you ride nothing else, the only thing that can let you pick another wheel is range, anything else is unmatched .

Good to hear.

To accelerate at the same rate, which wheel would require more effort, Master or Sherman? Ditto for braking.

In other words, is it easier to access torque on the Master than the Sherman? 

Edited by techyiam
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I have ridden the Sherman  (original version, not  Shermax) and i own a Master (early batch) and i would surely bet on the Master to win a drag race. 

The torque feels much easier to get, but i have to admit, i have not enough skill to bring any of these wheels to their limits. So, on higher speeds the sherman might have more accelleration, but lower speed and uphill the Masters torque is easier to access, i would say.

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51 minutes ago, btl said:

I have ridden the Sherman  (original version, not  Shermax) and i own a Master (early batch) and i would surely bet on the Master to win a drag race. 

The torque feels much easier to get, but i have to admit, i have not enough skill to bring any of these wheels to their limits. So, on higher speeds the sherman might have more accelleration, but lower speed and uphill the Masters torque is easier to access, i would say.

Thanks. That was helpful. 

Would you say then on a level road, it would be easier on the Sherman than the Master to maintain a 75 km/h cruise speed? 

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1 hour ago, techyiam said:

Thanks. That was helpful. 

Would you say then on a level road, it would be easier on the Sherman than the Master to maintain a 75 km/h cruise speed? 

Simple answer: Sherman doesn't reach 75km/h (it might beyond beeps, but it might also drop you)

Note : GPS speeds, since each wheel overestimates speed differently so there's no point comparing the GPS reported speeds 😋

Edited by supercurio
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35 minutes ago, supercurio said:

Simple answer: Sherman doesn't reach 75km/h (it might beyond beeps, but it might also drop you)

eWheels gives an estimated top speed of 45 mph for the Sherman Max. That converts to 73 km/h. And since many have reportedly gone higher than this speed, I thought it would be OK to round it up to 75 km/h. I also heard the original Sherman has a touch higher top speed too. However, 70 - 75 km/h would do. Just want to get an idea. So indicated speed is fine.

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2 hours ago, techyiam said:

Would you say then on a level road, it would be easier on the Sherman than the Master to maintain a 75 km/h cruise speed? 

It would certainly be safer on the Master, even if that model may be less well designed and built. There is quite a strong argument that it is unwise to do continuous cruising right near the max speeds of any wheel.

At least with the Master you can cruise at 75 with 25 km/h headroom, and without all the beeping, which I believe kicks in at 80...

Edited by Cerbera
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11 hours ago, techyiam said:

Good to hear.

To accelerate at the same rate, which wheel would require more effort, Master or Sherman? Ditto for braking.

In other words, is it easier to access torque on the Master than the Sherman? 

Master all the way .
super easy to ride, my favourite firmware to date, you can put a noob on it and it will go 40mph without even notice :D

[ but non-susp wheels are easier to carve and brake at high speed thanks to low pedals  ]

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15 minutes ago, EMA said:

Master all the way .
super easy to ride, my favourite firmware to date, you can put a noob on it and it will go 40mph without even notice :D

[ but non-susp wheels are easier to carve and brake at high speed thanks to low pedals  ]

Thank you for your reply.

It is good to know that the Master is not difficult to make it go 40 mph.

Just wondering, regarding braking, would it help braking if one was to position ones feet a bit more rearward, and forgo some acceleration? 

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7 minutes ago, techyiam said:

Just wondering, regarding braking, would it help braking if one was to position ones feet a bit more rearward, and forgo some acceleration?

this always help ! asymmetrical position is a key for better balance ;)

i've ridden the wheel without pads, not bad at all, but need attention 

Edited by EMA
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@techyiam The problem is not to reach this speed but to maintain it safely as said by @supercurio "might also drop you", when you ride constantly hitting the beeps (not even "riding the beeps" 80+%pwm, just constantly triggering the first of the series) even by remaining flexible on your legs the asperity of the road can make you feel the "grunt" of the motor that indicates the lack of torque at these speeds 

Now if you go over a small bump in half a second the wheel gains ~8/10mph add that to the 45 either you hit the limit or you go over it 50/50, if it puts you off balance forward you fall, a bigger bump or a pothole you fall straight down without the half second ^_^

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Or in case of crash video we already saw when a rider crashed at 75kmh from heavy acceleration battery sag is also something to be aware of.

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Begode FW always lets you push the wheel beyond the battery limit. To be safe I am not riding past 70km/h or 80 percent PWM, until there will be some official FW / app upgrade.  I have c02 nosedive version. 

I am not even sure if c01 is better. It would be nice if somebody from Begode would join this discussion.

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22 minutes ago, daniel1234 said:

Begode FW always lets you push the wheel beyond the battery limit. To be safe I am not riding past 70km/h or 80 percent PWM, until there will be some official FW / app upgrade.  I have c02 nosedive version. 

I am not even sure if c01 is better. It would be nice if somebody from Begode would join this discussion.

What do you mean by c01 and c02?

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I thought they had more than 2 batches considering we have at least 3 revisions of motherboards and different battery config in later batches.

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23 minutes ago, EMA said:

it's the version of the wheel, 1st batch is c01, now there's only c02

c02 is older than c01 if I am not mistaken. Now firmware for c02 is not even available which pisses me off.  

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58 minutes ago, daniel1234 said:

c02 is older than c01 if I am not mistaken. Now firmware for c02 is not even available which pisses me off.  

So yeah, not confusing at all. 😵💫🤪

Is c01 or c02 stamped on the motherboard or where does the term come from?

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1 hour ago, Rawnei said:

I thought they had more than 2 batches considering we have at least 3 revisions of motherboards and different battery config in later batches.

yes, more than 2 batches but only 2 version as already said :

v1 and 1.5 with 4 * 33v batteries in series
v2 with 67.2v batteries

1 hour ago, daniel1234 said:

c02 is older than c01 if I am not mistaken. Now firmware for c02 is not even available which pisses me off.  

it's not like that, almost all of the firmwares are not in the app right now becouse they are working on them, but i can confirm c01 is the name for the 1st version

i'm curious, can you change your pwm setting in app ?

30 minutes ago, Rawnei said:

So yeah, not confusing at all. 😵💫🤪

Is c01 or c02 stamped on the motherboard or where does the term come from?

comes from firmware version in app

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I am also into the suspension question.....

Anyone tried volume reducers on the stock shocks to prevent bottom outs?
Is it even possible to open the shock without damaging it to try to fit a volume reducer?

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1 minute ago, EUCzero said:

I am also into the suspension question.....

Anyone tried volume reducers on the stock shocks to prevent bottom outs?
Is it even possible to open the shock without damaging it to try to fit a volume reducer?

The stock shock can be filled with additional shock oil to reduce volume inside of the air cylinder. I tried it and it did resolve a lot of the bottom out issues, though I still found the lack of compression dampening to warrant a replacement. You could probably DIY a volume reducer, but I found shock oil to just be easier to work with. Top of the shock just unscrews from the cylinder with a good amount of elbow grease. 

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48 minutes ago, Whalesmash said:

The stock shock can be filled with additional shock oil to reduce volume inside of the air cylinder. I tried it and it did resolve a lot of the bottom out issues, though I still found the lack of compression dampening to warrant a replacement. You could probably DIY a volume reducer, but I found shock oil to just be easier to work with. Top of the shock just unscrews from the cylinder with a good amount of elbow grease. 

And what is you current solution?

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