Begode Master 134V 2400WH Suspension

[GoGeorgeGo]

1 hour ago, Timwheel said:

Hello Guys,

After selling my sherman Max, I received a master 2nd batch. Feels tall but I didn't need much adaptation strangely. I still haven't figured how to properly set up the suspension, I'm 84kgs dry and currently only feel the clonk. I can feel potential though. I don't feel any wobbles going 70 kph+ and it brakes well enough for me. I use the OG begode pads you found on the RSs with a 3D printed prolongation of the rear battery packs, I prefer to have pads a bit behind me to sit properly when braking hard.

 

I have a problem, the battery doesn't seem to charge above 132.4v for some reason, and the charger I have doesn't look like the black ones I've seen, it is a bare aluminium one and charges at 3amp. Now, I haven't use the wheel much and from my experience a few discharge/charge cycle can make this work, but I'm not entirely sure why it doesn't charge to 134.4v...

 

Else, the wheel feels very torquey, but somehow slow to respond (not much better than the Max in that regard) and the high position feels a bit weird, but not really less stable (turning at high speeds just feels.... strange). I bought it after taking a huge jump with a pothole on the Max. I need something that takes the edge of those potholes I see last minute... I absolutely adored the max but felt like suspension was the way to go, and didn't need the whole range it had.

Do you guys have any set up recommandation regarding the suspension ?

Thanks !

switch it to soft mode, the master is a rocket ship when ridden on soft 

[Konst]

12 hours ago, Timwheel said:

Hello Guys,

After selling my sherman Max, I received a master 2nd batch. Feels tall but I didn't need much adaptation strangely. I still haven't figured how to properly set up the suspension, I'm 84kgs dry and currently only feel the clonk.

1. You may use foam like Kuji and others use (timestamp) to stop bottoming out clonk:

2. Put bronse bushings more tight into the frame by wrapping them up with electric tape or "pipe thread teflon tape"

3. Glue a bumper or bend up the rear top metal plate, picture of which I posted on the previous page.

All of this, more likely, will stop the clonking.

Edited September 12, 2022 by Konst

[mrelwood]

12 hours ago, alcatraz said:

Also, is this a 20in wheel or 18/19 like the older Msuper?

It looks like it uses the same tires making it essentially the same...

18" wheel = 19" wheel = 20" wheel. 18XL, MSX, V11, Sherman, RS, S22, EX.N, EX20S, Hero, ... They all have the same rim diameter. The only difference is that 20" wheels get to call themselves larger than the previous generation 19" wheels because they have knobs on the tire making it "larger". And 19" became 19" because the tire is wider than what was available on the 18" wheels back then, making it slightly larger in diameter as well. They still read 18" x 3" on the tire itself. It's all one big hoax!

 

12 hours ago, Timwheel said:

I have a problem, the battery doesn't seem to charge above 132.4v for some reason

First thing is to measure the charger output voltage. If it's any less than 134.4V, it's badly adjusted or broken. If it is 134.4-134.6 and the wheel only shows 132.4 when full, the board's voltage measurement may be badly calibrated. I don't know how/if it can be fixed on a Begode.

 

12 hours ago, Timwheel said:

Else, the wheel feels very torquey, but somehow slow to respond (not much better than the Max in that regard)

The higher riding position does affect the effort required to accelerate and brake. But as was suggested, try with the softer riding modes: medium and soft. And make sure your pads fit your riding style.

 

About the suspension mods: The #1 issue with the stock system is that it only uses a small portion of the shock's travel, and not even from the bottom end. That's why the suspension travel bottoms out so easily. Proper linkage and a good quality shock would be the best mod, but if you're not up for paying the price, you can get the shock to work in the correct range with air shock volume spacers. MTB shops surely sell some, but for more precise results, measure the shock travel when installed on the wheel as well as without, open up the shock and measure the diameter for the spacers, and 3D print a suitable spacer.

Then you won't have to pump the shock to such high pressures anymore so it should feel much softer for small bumps, and it won't bottom out anymore either.

[The Brahan Seer]

2 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

It's all one big hoax!

 

Although the rim is the same maybe the difference is how much clearance each wheel has for the height of the tyre before it rubs or hits something?

[MTurcotte]

Question to all:

- I received my Begode Master in July.  I enjoy it very much.  The question is:  why do I get beeps at exactly 30 mph?
Here are my settings:
Alarm setting  =  Turn off level 1 alarm
Tilt back speed  =  36mph
Power alarm  =  70%
Maximum speed reminder  =  62mph
When it beeps, it is always at 30 mph exactly, always on flat (or going slightly down) and always on constant speed
(very little variation).  The battery level seems irrelevant varying between 45% and 90%.

Is it because the tilt-back ‘anticipates’ that I am getting close to the 36 mph setting? and start warning me at 30 mph?

When I do a firmware update, I select ‘Master c01’ because this was the only option available when I originally got the Master, but now there are many other names I could select on the firmware update list including many non ‘Master’.  They should only list the firmware update that my wheel can work with.  This is improper practice from Begode.

Michel

Edited September 13, 2022 by MTurcotte

[Nick McCutcheon]

11 minutes ago, MTurcotte said:

Question to all:

- I received my Begode Master in July.  I enjoy it very much.  The question is:  why do I get beeps at exactly 30 mph?
Here are my settings:
Alarm setting  =  Turn off level 1 alarm
Tilt back speed  =  36mph
Power alarm  =  70%
Maximum speed reminder  =  62mph

Is it because the tilt-back ‘anticipates’ that I am getting close to the 36 mph setting? and start warning me at 30 mph?

When I do a firmware update, I select ‘Master c01’ because this was the only option available when I originally got the Master, but now there are many other names I could select on the firmware update list including many non ‘Master’.  They should only list the firmware update that my wheel can work with.  This is improper practice from Begode.

Michel

You need to select "turn off level 2 alarm". Don't worry, the top speed beeps cannot be disabled. I agree regarding Begode's approach to FW updates, but for what it's worth, it will (usually) stop you if you try to install another firmware that's incompatible. 

[Wgm]

18 hours ago, GoGeorgeGo said:

switch it to soft mode, the master is a rocket ship when ridden on soft 

Thanks for this, the latest firmware fixed soft from oscillating and it's great fun as you said.

[EUCzero]

So... everyone is saying the T4 have better suspension.
Is it ONLY due to a bit longer travel and there fore utilizing the linkage and airshock full range, or is the linkage different?

In that last case (if true), will T4 linkage fit the master? Anyone compared the two?

 

[EMA]

2 hours ago, EUCzero said:

So... everyone is saying the T4 have better suspension.
Is it ONLY due to a bit longer travel and there fore utilizing the linkage and airshock full range, or is the linkage different?

In that last case (if true), will T4 linkage fit the master? Anyone compared the two?

 

travel is not related, probably the linkage is different and use more shock travel than the master, highly possible but right now no one have disassembled, measured it and compared to the master

[wstuart]

8 hours ago, EUCzero said:

So... everyone is saying the T4 have better suspension.
Is it ONLY due to a bit longer travel and there fore utilizing the linkage and airshock full range, or is the linkage different?

In that last case (if true), will T4 linkage fit the master? Anyone compared the two?

 

Yeah I was wondering the same thing.  I purchased a modified "Koba" linkage for my yet-to-be delivered master.  I'm assuming the modified linkage uses more of the shock travel.

I'm also hoping that whatever begode did to make the t4 suspension work so well, they will also do to the master. 

[daniel1234]

12 hours ago, EUCzero said:

In that last case (if true), will T4 linkage fit the master? Anyone compared the two?

I assume most of us still waiting for T4s. 

From the pictures, Shock is the same size(but with working rebound this time hopefully) but linkage is a little bit different and shorter. 

[Aztek]

2 hours ago, daniel1234 said:

I assume most of us still waiting for T4s. 

From the pictures, Shock is the same size(but with working rebound this time hopefully) but linkage is a little bit different and shorter. 

What is the problem with the rebound of the master's shock?

I see it working - slow when tightened and jumpy when loose.

Edited September 14, 2022 by Aztek

[Aztek]

Disassembling the master and comparing with kingsong S18, I find that, from mechanical point of view, the master is much better built with better quality than the S18 (even later batches).

Problem, I get it, with this company has always been the electronic and electrical safety and build quality.

So, maybe, someone who is well versed in electricity and electronics, could elaborate a bit more. Is this new wheel a hazard? Is it likely to cut abruptly for no reason, burn or hurt you in any other way?

It is a question of added value for such a speedy wheel. Obviously, if one gets cut off with 90 km per hour, this might be a truly fatal experience.

Edited September 14, 2022 by Aztek

[Rawnei]

12 minutes ago, Aztek said:

Disassembling the master and comparing with kingsong S18, I find that, from mechanical point of view, the master is much better built with better quality than the S18 (even later batches).

Problem, I get it, with this company has always been the electronic and electrical safety and build quality.

So, maybe, someone who is well versed in electricity and electronics, could elaborate a bit more. Is this new wheel a hazard? Is it likely to cut abruptly for no reason, burn or hurt you in any other way?

It is a question of added value for such a speedy wheel. Obviously, if one gets cut off with 90 km per hour, this might be a truly fatal experience.

Maybe not so much that the components themselves are bad but there are some questionable design choices when you look at the whole, all 4 packs in serial was not a good idea since it can put too much current on connectors of last pack in series so they changed this to 2x2 instead on later batches, choice of cells 50e is questionable for the performance of this wheel, if you ride very aggressive can get a lot of sag and get cut out that way as we already seen from videos, have to watch the voltages when accelerating hard and speaking of that the alarms does not seem to be that great no alarms before those things happen so no real safety mechanisms to prevent it it's 100% on rider to watch out.

And in latest batches the motherboard has changed completely again with new components so we don't know yet how good that is.

Other questionable choices that could affect safety: thin plastic for battery cases, woodscrews that protrude from the battery cases (again Begode love to use woodscrews for some reason), the recess around the charging port cap is mind boggling, this will collect rain water which can get into charging ports or motherboard, I already designed a 3D printable fix for this.

I will ride mine carefully until I trust it fully.

Edited September 14, 2022 by Rawnei

[daniel1234]

1 hour ago, Aztek said:

Disassembling the master and comparing with kingsong S18, I find that, from mechanical point of view, the master is much better built with better quality than the S18 (even later batches).

Problem, I get it, with this company has always been the electronic and electrical safety and build quality.

I had the opposite experience - mine s18 is without problem and the master needed a lot of repairs and tuning out of the package.

I broke rebound mechanism somehow after 100 km riding on flat ground - shock was replaced immediately. Missing parts + lose screws  = bad experience for newbie.

From an electrical point of view -> 4 * BMS in series is not bad idea!  It was just terribly implemented. As long you are not pushing it to the limit, the voltage seems stable.

[daniel1234]

1 hour ago, Rawnei said:

Maybe not so much that the components themselves are bad but there are some questionable design choices when you look at the whole, all 4 packs in serial was not a good idea since it can put too much current on connectors of last pack in series so they changed this to 2x2 instead on later batches, choice of cells 50e is questionable for the performance of this wheel, if you ride very aggressive can get a lot of sag and get cut out that way as we already seen from videos, have to watch the voltages when accelerating hard and speaking of that the alarms does not seem to be that great no alarms before those things happen so no real safety mechanisms to prevent it it's 100% on rider to watch out.

 

Mainly that parallel connection will not save you from the cutout. I think there is some misunderstanding. If you push your wheel to the limit - where 4 batteries are not enough at the moment and one pack fails - 2 of them will not be enough to keep momentum. 

 

 

[Aztek]

8 minutes ago, daniel1234 said:

If you push your wheel to the limit

Pushing this wheel the limit is next to suicide attempt.

I'm concerned more of sloppy engineering and electrical design and build. Things that might get you hurt or killed without you being reckless.

[Rawnei]

36 minutes ago, daniel1234 said:

 

Mainly that parallel connection will not save you from the cutout. I think there is some misunderstanding. If you push your wheel to the limit - where 4 batteries are not enough at the moment and one pack fails - 2 of them will not be enough to keep momentum.

That was not the issue, there was one case of early batch master with 40T batteries that pulled so much current that the nickle strip on one of the packs in series broke, the connectors of the last pack in series have to carry all that current.

[Cerbera]

1 hour ago, Rawnei said:

That was not the issue, there was one case of early batch master with 40T batteries that pulled so much current that the nickle strip on one of the packs in series broke, the connectors of the last pack in series have to carry all that current.

Yeah that's not good hey ? Do we know what, if anything is different about more recent batch 40T packs ?

[dangasaur]

13 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

Yeah that's not good hey ? Do we know what, if anything is different about more recent batch 40T packs ?

ewheels 40T packs are made by LiTech and there are some earlier threads that share the benefits of those packs over what comes from Begode.  I haven't seen any information on changes to or updated Begode 40T packs.

[Rawnei]

50 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

Yeah that's not good hey ? Do we know what, if anything is different about more recent batch 40T packs ?

The problem wasn't the 40T packs specifically but 4x40T in serial configuration generating a lot of current, 2x2 40T should be better in that regard.

[Cerbera]

2 hours ago, Rawnei said:

The problem wasn't the 40T packs specifically but 4x40T in serial configuration generating a lot of current, 2x2 40T should be better in that regard.

Oh good, I am relieved to hear that !

[EUCzero]

On 9/13/2022 at 9:28 PM, EMA said:

travel is not related, probably the linkage is different and use more shock travel than the master, highly possible but right now no one have disassembled, measured it and compared to the master

I believe it IS related, as the T4 have more travel (10cm compared to master 8cm) and therefor using the more shock travel. Some say more travel because the wheel is smaller and allow more travel.

[EMA]

8 hours ago, EUCzero said:

I believe it IS related, as the T4 have more travel (10cm compared to master 8cm) and therefor using the more shock travel. Some say more travel because the wheel is smaller and allow more travel.

 more travel doesn't mean better suspension but just a different type.

lot a YTs comments say they can use a lower psi on the T4 so the linkage is better for sure

ecodrift teardown out:
https://ecodrift.ru/2022/09/14/begode-t4-razbiraem/

i'll try to simulate the differences with cad

[Rawnei]

On 8/9/2022 at 9:17 AM, EMA said:

your sliders probably are a bit loose, there are some headless screws you need to check, just need to remove rear batteries.

do not overtight to create stiction

 

https://ecodrift.ru/2022/05/21/begode-master-razbiraem/

Man I have this problem and it sucks, can't tighten them too much or suspension works poorly, but with suspension working whole wheel is a bit loose, same feeling as loose pedal hangers and it's uncomfortable, like the rods are smaller than the sliders and need to be stabilized by the bushings 😵‍💫

Why do you write that one has to remove rear batteries? The bushing screws are accessible from the outside or am I missing something?