Begode Master 134V 2400WH Suspension

[Raptor]

On 8/30/2022 at 4:49 PM, EMA said:

it will fit, just use some spacers on battery case to make them wider

yes 40T is 1900wh but you can always choose the 2400wh with 50E

[Aztek]

Mine has a serious knocking sound when the suspension collapses and returns to extended state.

As if something kicks hard metal on metal on extending. You can feel the percussion in the pedals and it is continuous, many knocks while riding on rough terrain.

I checked, the rubber ring on the lower end of the slider (on the sliding tube above the pedal hanger) is present.

Any ideas?

It is not at all rosy - 2 of 3 wheels I got had serious problems out of the box. They get more expensive, but still about 70% are defective as they come

Edited September 9, 2022 by Aztek

[Konst]

1 hour ago, Aztek said:

Mine has a serious knocking sound when the suspension collapses and returns to extended state.

As if something kicks hard metal on metal on extending.

When suspension extends, the shock hits a metal plate above. You may drill a hole in it or put something like thin door stopper pads.

https://www.amazon.com/MILEQEE-Door-Bumpers-Clear-Sheet/dp/B0B4S1VH2T

 

[Aztek]

6 minutes ago, Konst said:

When suspension extends, the shock hits a metal plate above. You may drill a hole in it or put something like thin door stopper pads.

https://www.amazon.com/MILEQEE-Door-Bumpers-Clear-Sheet/dp/B0B4S1VH2T

 

No, it is not that. The shock hits the plate when the suspension contracts actually.

Mine knocks metal on metal when it extends I.e. returns in extended position by the elasticity of the shock.

[Aztek]

Okay, after comparing with another master, it appears it is indeed the hit on the rubber ring when  returning the slider in baseline position.

The reason being I've put too much pressure in the shock (300 psi) and it returns the slider in position too fast and too strong with a kick.

[Grimm10]

44 minutes ago, Aztek said:

Okay, after comparing with another master, it appears it is indeed the hit on the rubber ring when  returning the slider in baseline position.

The reason being I've put too much pressure in the shock (300 psi) and it returns the slider in position too fast and too strong with a kick.

Reducing your rebound could likely quiet down the clanging noise.

[Aztek]

13 minutes ago, Grimm10 said:

Reducing your rebound could likely quiet down the clanging noise.

Actually that's what I first did, but curiously, the kick remained. Shock's peculiarities.

[Aztek]

15 hours ago, Grimm10 said:

Reducing your rebound could likely quiet down the clanging noise.

On second try, yes, up to 3 clicks from closed rebound knob - no knocking. From 4 up - is starts.

Edited September 10, 2022 by Aztek

[buffs]

 

[Cerbera]

1 hour ago, buffs said:

 

Excellent review there. Very much enjoyed that

[Greg X]

nice to watch, but Kuji reviewed oldest generation of Master - batch 1st. 
Latest batch has most upgrades, he wanted.

[Rawnei]

20 minutes ago, Greg X said:

nice to watch, but Kuji reviewed oldest generation of Master - batch 1st. 
Latest batch has most upgrades, he wanted.

Upgrades, or downgrades? That's debatable if you follow ecodrift teardowns.

[Cerbera]

2 hours ago, Rawnei said:

Upgrades, or downgrades? That's debatable if you follow ecodrift teardowns.

I think it's more upgrade than downgrade though. They fixed the most important issues by rewiring the batteries in parallel and fixing the handle which used to pop up and twat you in the nuts occasionally. And who doesn't want a lovely bit of door mat hastily stuck on the front light ?

I have noticed that most masters that destroy themselves in high speed crashes do so because they are not tethered to the rider and are free to run on with great impetus, range and momentum, bouncing high and fast, and they tend to rotate as they do this, allowing for some devastating impacts to the seat /frame and control board areas. I have never felt a need to tether my MS3, but I think it could seriously prolong the life of this rather delicate wheel if it could be persuaded to fall on its side and power down sooner rather than later, which a tether should encourage. Thoughts ?

I am trialling elastic bungee  cords with not much slack (bit paranoid about it getting caught in wheel) between handle on wheel and belt loop on jeans.

Presumably, when customs eventually see fit to release my Master I will be best off clipping onto some part of the rear shock red frame ?

Edited September 11, 2022 by Cerbera

[UniBlab]

I'm betting that my Master from Ewheels will be worth the wait. Here's what we've been waiting for, according to Jason -

 

"On the Master front: our battery supplier has completed an improved battery design for the Master, which now supports redundancy for each side; in addition, Begode are working on these other improvements:

 

- Improved handle system
- Improved pad set
- Board upgrades, Begode says "New Motherboard Technology (major upgrade)"
- Optimized shock absorber
- Strengthened pillars
- Stainless steel screws
- Higher quality fender"

 

I hope Ewheels comes thru - fingers crossed!

[mrelwood]

 

1 hour ago, Cerbera said:

I am trialling elastic bungee  cords with not much slack (bit paranoid about it getting caught in wheel) between handle on wheel and belt loop on jeans.

What a tether does though is to sacrifice rider safety in order to possibly ease the damage on the wheel (and 3rd party objects). A tether pretty effectively removes the ability to run out a slow speed tumble, so you are committing yourself to only have crashes where you fall. A tether that snaps or detaches in a run out doesn't do much when a 37kg wheel is tumbling away at 40+ km/h either.

Be careful and mindful about tethers.

[Cerbera]

Thanks, @mrelwood. Yes, I have considered this, and asked a couple of people who do use tethers if they think advantages outweigh the disadvantages.

Here's a quote from one of them...

Quote

'Tether hasn’t ever made any of my crashes worse but has saved me thousands of dollars in damages without it'

His review, which (unusually) shows several (minor) tethered crashes has really made me think again about its use - previously to this machine I was fairly dead set against them for the reasons you mentioned. But now, having seen so many Master crashes that end in that seat cover flying off, and the frame cracking, and with me being pretty damn confident in my armour now, I think I am OK with minimising damage to the wheel even if it means a little more damage to me ! I suspect it won't though. Yes; it may be travelling at 40 km/h+, but so am I as I'm falling - I think I am less worried about it hitting me than I am about landing on it when I go down in the first place.

 

[UtahRider]

Hmm, this wheel seems to be a mixed bag o shit. Funny Begode told a 150lb rider to inflate the shock to 300 psi, the shock pump’s max so heavier riders will need to buy a 400+psi pump.

[alcatraz]

I haven't read all the posts, but has anyone tried to fit rubber stops to prevent bottoming out hard (like the T4 has) on the Master?

[alcatraz]

Also, is this a 20in wheel or 18/19 like the older Msuper?

It looks like it uses the same tires making it essentially the same...

Edited September 12, 2022 by alcatraz

[Timwheel]

Hello Guys,

After selling my sherman Max, I received a master 2nd batch. Feels tall but I didn't need much adaptation strangely. I still haven't figured how to properly set up the suspension, I'm 84kgs dry and currently only feel the clonk. I can feel potential though. I don't feel any wobbles going 70 kph+ and it brakes well enough for me. I use the OG begode pads you found on the RSs with a 3D printed prolongation of the rear battery packs, I prefer to have pads a bit behind me to sit properly when braking hard.

 

I have a problem, the battery doesn't seem to charge above 132.4v for some reason, and the charger I have doesn't look like the black ones I've seen, it is a bare aluminium one and charges at 3amp. Now, I haven't use the wheel much and from my experience a few discharge/charge cycle can make this work, but I'm not entirely sure why it doesn't charge to 134.4v...

 

Else, the wheel feels very torquey, but somehow slow to respond (not much better than the Max in that regard) and the high position feels a bit weird, but not really less stable (turning at high speeds just feels.... strange). I bought it after taking a huge jump with a pothole on the Max. I need something that takes the edge of those potholes I see last minute... I absolutely adored the max but felt like suspension was the way to go, and didn't need the whole range it had.

Do you guys have any set up recommandation regarding the suspension ?

Thanks !

[Rawnei]

1 hour ago, Timwheel said:

Else, the wheel feels very torquey, but somehow slow to respond (not much better than the Max in that regard) and the high position feels a bit weird, but not really less stable (turning at high speeds just feels.... strange).

Do you guys have any set up recommandation regarding the suspension ?

Slow to respond could simply be pad setup as it just responds to your leans, also the stock off-road tires (if you are using that) are similar but different, the CST has a more square profile than Kenda and will fall earlier/more to the sides.

Recommendation for suspension, maybe not what you want to hear but need to mod it, Kuba progressive link-arms or similar solution (I hear Roger Hajali has something similar in the states) and a rockshox shock or other compatible brand upgrade because the stock suspension sucks. Other than that try playing around with PSI for results but yeah.

Edited September 12, 2022 by Rawnei

[Timwheel]

I have a street tire so it shouldn't matter. Damn, so upgrade to an already expensive wheel... Sure I understand the pad set up issue, it is more about the weight I guess. It's onl for initial accel though, once above 20 it pulls effortlessly, very impressive. But I don't feel that much of an improvement over the max, and since the suspension is not set up properly I don't feel the benefits I'm expecting. The Max had everything I wanted, just not suspension so I probably won't use the extra speed, I just need comfort and to not be thrown off by potholes

Do you have any idea when it comes to the battery charging issue ?

Thanks for your answer !

[Rawnei]

1 minute ago, Timwheel said:

I have a street tire so it shouldn't matter. Damn, so upgrade to an already expensive wheel... Sure I understand the pad set up issue, it is more about the weight I guess. It's onl for initial accel though, once above 20 it pulls effortlessly, very impressive. But I don't feel that much of an improvement over the max, and since the suspension is not set up properly I don't feel the benefits I'm expecting. The Max had everything I wanted, just not suspension so I probably won't use the extra speed, I just need comfort and to not be thrown off by potholes

Do you have any idea when it comes to the battery charging issue ?

Thanks for your answer !

Yeah only reason I even bought a master is that there was already solutions for the sucky link-arms or I wouldn't have gotten one.

What I mean with pad setup is not so much using the pads for acceleration more that pads dictate a lot where your feet end up on the wheel, now I haven't tested the stock pads as I don't think they suit my riding style at all but it is possible your feet end up in a position that is not optimal for you or your riding style, that's something you will have to experiment with though, as long as the wheel isn't dipping it's just responding to your leans, more lean = more acceleration.

[daniel1234]

1 hour ago, Timwheel said:

I have a problem, the battery doesn't seem to charge above 132.4v for some reason, and the charger I have doesn't look like the black ones I've seen, it is a bare aluminium one and charges at 3amp. Now, I haven't use the wheel much and from my experience a few discharge/charge cycle can make this work, but I'm not entirely sure why it doesn't charge to 134.4v...

 

Measure each battery with a multimeter and check if the values are symmetric!
Measure voltage of your charger, and be careful with high voltage 

[daniel1234]

13 hours ago, Rawnei said:

Upgrades, or downgrades? That's debatable if you follow ecodrift teardowns.

Yes, cheaper MOSFETs are a disappointment - I did service on no.1 batch master on weekend. Unfortunately, there is something lose in hub after 2600 km but otherwise, it still rides.