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Nick McCutcheon

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About Nick McCutcheon

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  1. I just wanted to update everyone, I seem to have repaired the battery! I made sure each pack was at the same voltage before plugging them into the wheel, and the wheel charges up fully. I haven’t done extensive riding tests yet, but if something goes wrong (which hopefully should not happen), I’ll be posting it here. Thanks for all the help everyone, I really appreciate it
  2. I emailed Michael for a different reason a few days ago, but I haven’t heard anything back yet. He’s probably got a lot of emails to sort through.
  3. Yep, I can just use the light charger (it takes two cells, so it’s perfect for this). Thanks for the reassurance. I already bought some of the same NCR18650PF cells that the pack is made of, would it be unsafe to use them? I may still be able to cancel my order.
  4. It's good to hear at least this is doable. Thanks for the advice, especially about the 0.1V difference. Do you know how to discharge cells in case they come fully charged? Oh wait, I just remembered I have a headlamp that takes 18650's, I can just leave that on for a couple of hours I bought a spot welder to avoid the pain that comes with trying to solder strips to the cells, so hopefully that will make things a bit easier. And yes, I am quite scared, but I will take all steps possible to make sure I don't accidentally short anything.
  5. I did try the stock charger, it can’t charge the pack any more than the fast charger. I hope I’ll be able to replace the damaged cells. It’s still weird about my motor though, since the bearings are brand new as well. Your monster may have a bearing issue though, I’ve seen one other tesla owner with that problem. And of course! There’s no way I can give up on this wheel, it really is the best all-arounder like you’ve said. Pretty soon I’ll have enough spare/broken parts to build a whole new acm...
  6. Hi all, Unfortunately I just suffered a bad crash on my ACM2, which required me to replace the shells (I’m fine aside from road rash, but the wheel wasn’t...) The repair went well, and I even replaced my motor during the repair as it had been dented. During the crash, I noticed one of the battery packs had taken what appeared to be only a slight bit of external damage to the blue wrapping layer, as the side panel had come open in a few places. Turns out, when I go to charge the wheel now, it only charges to 90% and then the charger (ewheels fast charger) turns on and then off in a cycle that lasts around 2 seconds. My theory is that this is because the BMS keeps continuously shutting off and then turning back on as it tries to protect overcharging a bad cell. I haven’t opened battery pack fully yet to inspect, as I need to use this wheel nearly every day, but I suspect I’m going to need to either replace a bad cell (low cost, lots of time to fix) or get a replacement pack (high cost, very little time to fix), and I want to know if anyone on here has had luck with replacing bad cells. I’m fine with paying for a replacement pack if I need to, but I’d rather try to save some money before doing that. Also, @Marty Backe, replacing the motor didn’t fix my axle play completely. So either I must not be tightening the nuts hard enough (I can’t imagine what sort of force it necessary in that case!!) or something else is going on here. Update: I took the casing off of the battery. Two of the cells at the edge of the pack are clearly dented, and some of the links that connect the batteries to the BMS have torn and are barely still attached. I’ve deemed this pack unsafe, just to be sure. So for now I’m going to have a 650Wh ACM... It looks pretty simple, just desolder and remove the bad cells, and replace/resolder the new ones, right? Update Update: I bought 3 replacement cells (I only need two, but it's good to have an extra) and a ~$100 spot welder, so I'm committed at this point. I'm sure it can't be too hard. Also, it turns out one of the dented cells had completely broken off from the nickel strips. Yikes!
  7. If it doesn’t fold, it’s likely a rideshare scooter converted onto a personal one, most likely a bird since they’re the easiest to convert. Where did you get this scooter? If you look under the deck, near the rear wheel there should be a sticker with the model, it’s likely an ES4 since it has the external battery. It’s very tough to convert it to a folding scooter, you have to use a dremel to cut the welds and then there’s some other stuff you have to do, but it’s easy to mess it up. Also, I’m not sure if you have this power @Marty Backe but this probably belongs in the escooter section, if you’re able to move posts.
  8. Ah, that makes sense. 1.11 is what I’m on, so you likely wouldn’t have this issue. Thanks for the suggestion, but enabling/disabling voice prompts in both the green and blue apps doesn’t get rid of it. I don’t know of a third party app that can control voice prompts.
  9. Are you on the latest firmware? I don’t know what my issue could be, because I had my prompts off as well. It’s only after the update that the please decelerate became enabled/permanent.
  10. It seems like in order to implement the binding nonsense, they had to push a firmware upgrade that renders both the orange and green app useless for changing the speed. The green app will still connect, but I cannot for the life of me force the orange app to connect at all (this is on a 14D, after upgrading to the newest firmware 1.11). What's more, is it seems that they've made the "PLEASE DECELERATE" permanent. Even after disabling voice prompts in the new app, that annoying prompt is still there and I have no idea how to get rid of it. I can imagine that the binding nonsense would make secondhand sales more of a pain if the owner forgets to unbind their wheel first. This just seems like a bad idea all around...
  11. Wow, this update messed everything up! The orange app no longer even connects, and I can’t change the speed limit using the black and green app anymore as there’s a new type of account-related “encryption” going on now. I don’t have a rooted phone so I can’t downgrade the firmware even if I had the file... Damn. Oh well, at least I learned my lesson about updates.
  12. Last night, I upgraded the firmware on a KS14D to version 1.11, and it seems I can no longer disable the “please decelerate” prompt. When the voice prompt switch is off, the horn/overpower alarms become converted to just beeps, but the deceleration prompt doesn’t go away. This is odd, as the switch used to be able to turn that prompt off as well. Has anyone else run into this issue? Using the old android app to disable voice mode doesn’t help either.
  13. It’s interesting to see that the 100v MSX can go 4kmh faster than the 100v Monster, I always thought that the Monster went a bit faster. Of course, there’s very limited testing data (read: brave riders) to get actual top speed info from, so who knows how realistic these numbers are under real riding conditions. And, I reach the 80% beeps on the 84v MSX and Monster at the exact same speed of 51-52kmh on both wheels, despite a difference being claimed for those two wheels as well. So I’m sure the actual speed difference in the 100v wheels is smaller than what’s claimed (at least it would be for me).
  14. Sounds good. I’m sure it’ll sell, even with the old board it’s still a great wheel at a great price! Good luck
  15. This is definitely a long shot, but I thought I might as well ask, would you be interested in selling one of the 800Wh packs from the monster? The price of these things just keeps going up, I think there was some sort of price hike at GotWay recently on a bunch of their products. I’ve been looking to upgrade my 1600Wh monster to a 2400Wh, but (understandably) nobody really sells used batteries separately from the wheel.
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