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22 minutes ago, palachzzz said:

Z - tire designed especially for Z, it is CST with "Ninebot" mark

I bet its not cheap to have a tyre specially made for Z series with small production run. It looks tough and built to last many thousands of miles. The lack of obvious sidewall makes it suitable to be run at low pressure without damaging the rubber through excessive flexing. A lot of thought appears to have gone into this tyre. I like it.

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49 minutes ago, Ziiten said:

What are those "Fan moments" and "Discover" options. My app does not show them, just vehicle and me.

"me"-"parameters"-"log out"

close app -  launch app, top right corner select other region than europe (USA), log and you ll get nfan moments and discover...etc

(why ? because EU General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR) )

 

Edited by jojo33
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On 9/1/2018 at 5:05 PM, houseofjob said:

Why would an EUC enthusiast want the EUC companies all to create basically the same wheel?

Because for all wheel form factors, sizes and diameters, the physics laws and the human anatomy stay the same. Some design decisions work well, some don't, some turn out to be a flop.

When I ride 40+ km/h on KS18L and MSuperX between pedestrians on a wide smooth road, I have zero problems with turns and breaks. Can't say that they're bad for offroad either. Then comes the wheel that makes every uphill a struggle (Monster). Does it work? Not well, Monster has a bit larger diameter than optimal to transfer the pedal pressure and make it accelerate. And then comes the wheel that makes every fast turn a struggle (the Z) and has sharp transition between super-sensitive control (<20kmh) and fighting to lean it (20+ kmh). Does it work? Nope, too wide and heavy and not enough body control. The MSuperX outer diameter, tire profile and softness is what still works, when you go bigger/wider on any part, the side effects outweight the gains, it seems.

Would you like to discuss as well why all modern passenger airplanes look the same? (may be offtopic)

 

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1 hour ago, EZhel said:

And then comes the wheel that makes every fast turn a struggle (the Z) and has sharp transition between super-sensitive control (<20kmh) and fighting to lean it (20+ kmh). Does it work?

Yes, it does! Same way you turn with a normal motorcycle ?! ? 

 

Edited by Toshio Uemura
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2 hours ago, EZhel said:

Would you like to discuss as well why all modern passenger airplanes look the same? (may be offtopic)

That's easy, it's because that's how birds look like :P

2 hours ago, EZhel said:

Because for all wheel form factors, sizes and diameters, the physics laws and the human anatomy stay the same. Some design decisions work well, some don't, some turn out to be a flop.

That's true, still I appreciate when manufacturers explore the space of possibilities and specifications. Sometimes the failure is easy to predict and could be avoided, but sometimes not.

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On 9/1/2018 at 4:12 PM, Toshio Uemura said:

Just one note to the “speed and range” thing: I wonder how many riders cruise over 40 km/h and over 50 km of range on a daily basis? 

There may be a handful, BUT if you NEED such speeds and such ranges, you might want to check for a different mode of transportation (bus!, subway!) otherwise you are statistically bound for injuries (with or without protective gear!)

It’s one thing to psychologically know that you COULD go 80 km at 45+ km/h, instead of 40/50 km at 40+ km/h, but in fact most of us ACTUALLY TRAVEL 30+ for less than 60 km every day. Do we nodd?!

So for me it stays a choice of which wheel gives you the most fun and satisfaction or which is more challenging or on which you feel most safe or which is best for doing tricks or which is most convenient for your transportation pattern and needs. So it is wonderful to have such a variety of wheels to choose from. I just wish there were rentals, so newbies could really try them for a while to decide before spending the big bucks.

One here :-)

i comute to work 17+17km. Then i ride to gf after work 7+7km and often i ride solo in between or after gf either to relax, chase zombies (walking dead lol) or just have some fun. (Charge overnight to have it rdy next day)

I would say im a noob, first summer and 1200km ridden, but i am allready getting used to crusing at 45km/h and yesterday i hit speed limit three times (49km/h at 67% batt) and had to back off to prevent cut out (gotway Tesla).

I certainly wouldnt mind raising the bar to 60-70km/h. I might not go therr, but i would not need to think of cutout risks around 50km/h.

Of course alternative is forced tiltback with a big margin (which im not a real fan of on my ninebot mini plus as it caps the speed a lot more than needed) but then you need even more power to go in 50km/h.

As i have gotten more and more used to the tesla, i just live with the eventual wobbles and jerks. As long as i dont react by jumping off, nothing happens..at least not so far.

The biggest danger is other trafficants (pedestrians bicyclist specifically dont really watch out when crossing or using walk/bicycle ways (many pedestrians walk on bicycle ways and get of the bus just crossing it without even looking), which leads to many accel and brake ins and for that reason i also prefer a bit more power :-)

 

Edited by Boogieman
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2 hours ago, Boogieman said:

The biggest danger is other trafficants (pedestrians bicyclist specifically dont really watch out when crossing or using walk/bicycle ways (many pedestrians walk on bicycle ways and get of the bus just crossing it without even looking), which leads to many accel and brake ins and for that reason i also prefer a bit more power :-)

In the legislations I am aware of, pedestrians coming off a bus have the right of way. More precisely, AFAIK, bicycles or any other vehicles are not even allowed to pass a bus on the side where passengers enter or exit, when the bus has come to a stop at a bus stop. They have to wait until the bus takes off again.

Edited by Mono
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2 hours ago, Boogieman said:

chase zombies (walking dead lol)

I hope you don’t use them for slalom. You do know the zombies have kids that might run from behind them at any time?

2 hours ago, Boogieman said:

Of course alternative is forced tiltback with a big margin

Msuper X luckily has a really soft tilt-back over at least 3-4km/h, I never even notice it. 16S wasn’t bad either at ~2km/h, but it was a lot easier to notice.

2 hours ago, Boogieman said:

but then you need even more power to go in 50km/h.

Not any more than if you’d switch to braking as fast yourself.

2 hours ago, Boogieman said:

The biggest danger is other trafficants

Only if you give them the power. Ride as if any bicyclist could come behind the corner without looking, and any pedestrian could jump 5 feet left or right at any time, and the danger they present becomes significantly smaller.

 

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8 hours ago, EZhel said:

Porque para todos los factores de forma de rueda, tamaños y diámetros, las leyes físicas y la anatomía humana permanecen igual. Algunas decisiones de diseño funcionan bien, otras no, algunas resultan ser un fracaso.

Cuando manejo más de 40 km / h en KS18L y MSuperX entre peatones en una carretera ancha y llana, no tengo problemas con los giros y los descansos. No puedo decir que sean malos tampoco para el campo. Luego viene la rueda que hace que cada cuesta arriba sea una lucha (Monstruo). ¿Funciona? No está bien, Monster tiene un diámetro un poco más grande que el óptimo para transferir la presión del pedal y acelerarlo. Y luego viene la rueda que hace que cada vuelta rápida sea una lucha (la Z) y tiene una transición aguda entre el control supersensible (<20 kmh) y la lucha por apoyarse (más de 20 kmh). ¿Funciona? No, demasiado ancho y pesado y no tiene suficiente control del cuerpo. El diámetro externo MSuperX, el perfil del neumático y la suavidad es lo que todavía funciona, cuando se hace más grande / más ancha en cualquier parte, los efectos secundarios superan las ganancias, al parecer.

¿Te gustaría discutir también por qué todos los aviones de pasajeros modernos tienen el mismo aspecto? (puede ser oftálmico)

 

Bulls***t

all your discussion is based on conjecture, I have my Ninebot Z10 under perfect control, it goes smooth, with a quick response, goes perfect, why come here to waste your time?

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As it is in stock at electro-sport.de.

Ordered my Z10 and should get it tomorrow. As I am in the 200pounds league I hope it’ll be strong enough for steep climbs . 

I’m still satisfied with my S2 and the E+ but want more speed and power the price wasn’t much higher than the KS16-s so I thought I better stick with the known brand.

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1 hour ago, Jekyll_500 said:

As it is in stock at electro-sport.de.

Ordered my Z10 and should get it tomorrow. As I am in the 200pounds league I hope it’ll be strong enough for steep climbs . 

I’m still satisfied with my S2 and the E+ but want more speed and power the price wasn’t much higher than the KS16-s so I thought I better stick with the known brand.

It will get you up there, don’t worry! If you loved and appreciated the E+ you will love your new Z even more (after having tamed it! ?)

Congratulations!! ??

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6 hours ago, RoberAce said:

https://ecodrift.ru/2018/09/03/z6-overview-english-version-first-ride-control-theory-conclusions/

 

Our friends from Russia EcoDrift have done a Review of the Z6, I do not agree with the conclusions drawn. On the one hand the Z does not work well to my way of understanding with a pressure of more than 2Bar (29 PSI) and I do not think it is a wheel to run exclusively on smooth asphalt.

Curiously, my image appears in the report :lol:

WhatsApp Image 2018-09-04 at 16.22.20.jpeg

That sure looks uncomfortable. That doesn’t happen on my V10F. :P 

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Just now, Harold Farrenkopf said:

I agree with some of what they say.   Hitting a bump at speed is far bouncier than my 18L.

 

2 minutes ago, Harold Farrenkopf said:

That sure looks uncomfortable. That doesn’t happen on my V10F.

When carving at high speed on my v10f, I liked to do similar.  I would use my outside leg to brace the carve... similar (but not as extreme as the picture) to the z10... it made carving w/ the v10f more fun than carving w/ the 18L.   

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For stability and safety, I would prefer that some effort was required to turn as I don't want to adjust my foot position when riding at speed and find that I induce a wobble that results in a fall. This is same principle as why car steering becomes stiffer the faster you go ... you don't want small mistakes to cause large problems.

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Quote

https://ecodrift.ru/2018/09/03/z6-overview-english-version-first-ride-control-theory-conclusions/ at the end:

The wheel with weight more than 20 kg shouldn’t use nominal power 51.4 V, which has to be compensated by bigger amount of copper, bigger magnets, thick wires and huge radiators. The wheels that work with nominal power 72 V and higher are more effective and light, which significantly reduce problems with carrying such wheel.

Interesting that the EcoDrift guys see the Z's low voltage responsible for the high weight of the wheel.

Can anybody shed some light on the technical background for this? Why do higher voltages allow using less metal? Because the currents are lower to achieve the same power?

--

Here are the other EcoDrift Ninebot One Z articles if these haven't been posted before:

A first look: https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=ru&amp;tl=en&amp;js=y&amp;prev=_t&amp;hl=de&amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;u=https%3A%2F%2Fecodrift.ru%2F2018%2F08%2F09%2Fpriehal-ninebot-z6-nachalo-ne-zaladilos%2F&amp;edit-text=

Disassembly: https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=ru&amp;tl=en&amp;js=y&amp;prev=_t&amp;hl=de&amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;u=https%3A%2F%2Fecodrift.ru%2F2018%2F08%2F10%2Fninebot-z6-razbiraem-izmeryaem-i-vzveshivaem%2F&amp;edit-text=

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