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Boogieman

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About Boogieman

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 07/03/1973

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  • Location
    Sweden
  • EUC
    Tesla 1.2 1040Wh Ninebot Mini Plus

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  1. 1. So you changed the rubber next to the bulgy washer to a thinner one? I guess the bulgy shape of the washer is to "press on the skirt" of the rubber instead of the centre, still its the bottom part that creates the seal against the rim, so top rubber is more to allow flex of some degree and take up uneveness if rim is curved. Could likely skip the top rubber all together if the rim surface is flat. 2. Dont dishwasher liquid contain a bit of water? So no mixing dishwasher soap with water at least then. 3. Don't sealant contain water? So maybe one can use sealant pre applied on the tyre skirt that is pressing against the rim if it doesnt seal, to minimze amount being thrown around in the tyre.? (Also rim gets goed up if inside, and worst case it reaches the valve clogging it up. I mean to get sealant on the edges one would have to put the rim horisontal and swirl around
  2. @mrelwood Nice info here :-) did you use the kind of valve in the image? Which one (tightened by nut or just rubber "pop in"?) I found theese variants. Double nut lock type, maybe such a short straight valve could work on the tesla. Minimal protrution, weight SEK 9.84 17%OFF | 1pair Tire Wheel Schrader Valve Tubeless No Tube Stem Motorcycle Car Bike ATV Bicycle Drop shipping https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/t93F5wjhp SEK 7.77 | Motorcycle Scooter Tubeless Tire Valve Stem Straight Bent 90 135 degree Copper Silver Valve For ATV Motorbike Quad https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/P9t47URWL SEK 15.64 | Motorcycle Scooter Moped Motorbike Electric-bike E-Scooter Wheel TUBELESS Tire Valve Stem Bent https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/qBdY69ycx SEK 15.64 | Motorcycle Scooter Moped Motorbike Wheel TUBELESS Tire Valve Stem Bent for GY6 https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/0dxsow5R5 Theese look nice, but function is key. SEK 93.21 10%OFF | 2Pcs/Set Motorcycle Tubeless Wheel Tire Valve Stem With CNC 5 colors For DUCATI 696 749 996 848 1098 1198 1199 And Other models https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/Z58Q8MdDv MOUNTING Did you use "rim grease" like they do with car tyres? It should allow the tyre to slide on easier and probably allow centering easier too (as you pump it, maybe even add a slight sealing effect against the rim). When pumping a car tire, they often over pump it until the edges "pop out" and then decrease pressure to correct pressure. Maybe this is all that is needed for perfect centering? I am guessing the lubrication effect goes away as the tyre i pumped and the layer gets thin, otherwise Car tyres wouldnt work to brake with :-) Overall sealant in a tyre creates imbalance. I wouldn't use it on a new tubeless tyre. I carry a smallgas peopelled sealant + pump spray canister with me in the backpack instead, should I get a flat. Of course it can prevent slow deflation of the tyre with slime, but those punctures should be less dsngerous than sn instant deflate (mega hole) and I doubt any sealant can mend such a hole. When i got a quick discharge flat i imediatelly noticed the wheel would not go in the direction i wanted, luckily i found out when getting on the wheel and not in speed. The slime i guess is more of a safety measure for that kind of issue. Since I inserted sealant (60ml) in my tesla tyre i can feel the imbalance when riding, not sideways but up/down like a juddery rotation. going to change ny TESLA tyre during winter break as its allmost zero thread left on the middle, so was thinking of going tubeless. As the Kenda is specced for higher PSI i was hoping it is better if running tubeless. On the other hand it might be specced higher due to softer side walls? Did you comparr kenda with CST regarding side wall stiffness? Regarding side wall sealant, i guess thats the least of problems, at least i have never hade a side wall puncture on any car or bike or motor bike. My gf have had several, but that's because some idiot punctured her tires with a needle for some idiot reason (probably didnt like that she parked on the public street in front of their house, many others have had similar issues in front of this house, so its pretty obvious that its the retarded house owner making his own rules for the public road/parking) LINK TO MTEN going tubeless (thanks for info to get a search started @Rywokast)
  3. Kalles is a bit like this..... 2 components needed, Kalle is doing it wrong on the picture :-)
  4. 😂 That would be my GF's version of fika for 2-3 people 😂 I would keep it at a more guy-ish level with coffe, home made protein bread sandwich and a "pruttare" or "stänkare" to round it off...very little leftovers after "guy-ish" fikas...but after girl fikas you can live half a year on the leftovers 😝 (NO pun intended agaisnt the guys in the video LOL). BBQ - totally different story 🤗 (speaking of which, I just got 2.5kg eastern europe spicy sausage from the local, maybe should call some people over 🥰)
  5. Dags för fika och vila (fika time and s break for all non Swedish speakers ) en mil eller två utanför Malmö (about 2-3miles ouside Malmö centre)
  6. Basic questions as everyone is "focused" on voltage : 1. Did ANYONE EVER SEE 84V after a charge in their app? (Or even better meassured it on batteries when in open loop) - Regardless if checked 5seconds or 5 hours after pulling the charge plug. - Regardless of charger type and charge time 2. If not, what is the max you have seen? A. I will start, 82.9V on my Gotway tesla after 4*8hour charging to balance the batteries with original charger (1.5A). Checked in app, directly after pulling charge plug. (3500km on batteries)
  7. I really dont like tubes for two reasons. 1) Hard to find right angle of valve 2. Adds unsprung weight and imbalance So, i found this on ali express. If someone tried, is there a good reason not to go tubeless? Example: - tyre cannot hold air - tyre not stable without tube - tubeless can deflate quickly if going over sharp edge (leading to,you know->face+ground+blood)
  8. That was my original idea, but my guts weren't there to insert a 5V DC down converter. Now the charger works exactly as from factory, only cooler :-) and should the 5V USB charger that drives the fan fail, its easy to replace (change usb charger and insert the usb cable). I could just put a 1 to 2 splitter in the outlet, should i need more outlets (for the non grounded jacks) Was "too afraid" to impede charging power & cutoff amps (by adding extras) and thus risking blown Li-ion pack aka 🔥 / bomb My next idea is to add an inline voltage / amp display right at the output cable though. But wanna make sure i dont sink the voltage too much by the load of that display device (or even worse, risk a short). Or i will wait untill the e+wheel charger can be delivered to Europe..or charge doctor starts delivering LOL Fan grille that is coming in looks like this, very similar to the one i used in my home cinema cabinets. Easy to clean filter (snap off frame) and filter is fairly free flowing, but still catches most of the dust. I made some mods removing plastic that prevents flow as well, so with this small diameter i am sure i Will do the same for higher throughout
  9. Warmest area is right above the mosfet, still only 34°C
  10. Quoting my own words. Fan grille point: A fan filter and grille is ordered. The problem with filters are that the flow and pressure is affected A LOT. A filter on the WRONG SIDE of a fan can basically remove 80-90% of its efficeincy (worst case start pushing air the wrong way). But i will try a filter (ordered) out to see how it works, but it seems from trials on this fan that it will sacrifice a lot of the flow and pressure. Tested by just keeping my hand close to the fan intake when spinning, you can feel air being directed the wrong way. (Have been studying this for some time when building my over pressured home cinema cabinet, to maximize pressure and minimize dust, in the end the filter had to be placed AFTER the fan and it made a huge difference vs having filter on "intake side". Best was no filter, but at least i lost a lot less flow and pressure by putting it after the fan...and keeping the amplifiers dust free...basically..by just allowing a small free output port vent.... thus keeping it pressurized. Fans controlled by a PC controller (stand alone unit) with a display so i can see exhaust temp at each cabinet secrion together with intake temp + fan speed for all 4 fans. Have dusted the cabinet once in a year (basically due to being lazy not sealing the glass doors properly msking it suck dust as air "passes by" the doors. The "big vent" by the door basically causes a low pressure zone (in my mind) allowing a tiny bit of dust to be sucked into the cabinet. Its not perfect but a lot better than monthly dusting :-) ) results on cooling. Temp started at 20°C when starting the charge. After about 10minutes of stabilizing the exhaust temp is at 28-30°C - meaning it removes quite a lot of energy and enough air flow to keep things cool. The area that was hot before (60+ °C) is now basically at a lower temp than my body (~37°C) when touching it with my hands and feeling "cool". The warmest area is now the "bottom" of the brick (solder side), that does not recieve a lot of air flow, but its still just luke warm (slightly above body temp 37°C) and there is no way solder will even start to melt at those temps. Meassured temp on "bottom of shell" is 32 when meassured with the air probe, adding 10°C would make 4e°C on the solder side = no problemo. All in all it seems like a mission success. )
  11. I guess shipping from US to Sweden would be an issue (insanely expensive)? Otherwise, I don't mind used wheels, as long as they are working well :-)
  12. Pebble network is dead/not supported for some time now. Use rebble. https://rebble.io/ Edit: saw u got help on a page later. Never mind this post
  13. Man, You guys have serious balls playing with fire hazardous explosives like this. I started reading about 1000km on a double pack - thought maybe someone added one zero extra as i thought this was the 1 charge ride distance 100km today is no problem, but until we see graphene batterys in their full glory its not likely to happen that anyone goes 10 000 km on one charge - unless moving at 5-10km/h with 5 x battery packs on a 2400Ah (x5) Nikola But imagine graphene packs of 2-4KWah on a EUC with a 1h quick charge https://www.wired.co.uk/article/graphene-batteries-supercapacitors And on top - as the graphene is based from one of the most common materials on earth, when everything is final, this could mean INSANE range at a SUPERB price, but for now they claim graphene is hard to mass manufacture (Which I do not believe is true, you can do it at home with some fairly simpe tools, not expensive and even laymen did this way back - here is an example from 2015 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ar3C5JgzhgE Nokia has been researching about grapehene since before 2011 - but it has been a true struggle to replace silicon for ALL big manufacturers that are in the graphene CA project https://www.graphene-info.com/nokia?page=3 and the money inflow is INSANE allready from the start. https://petapixel.com/2012/09/04/patent-shows-that-nokia-is-working-on-graphene-based-camera-sensors/ Now Samsung, that has the cash to push it, seems to be approacing the first graphene battery based smart phone, but only benefitting from a few of this super materials benefits. https://www.androidauthority.com/samsung-graphene-battery-1018569/ Thus, as a i said it will likely be very expensive (the first ?5-10? years from 2020) but as graphene slowly will: - replace silicon chips (due to the much faster electron transport = much higher processor speeds) https://phys.org/news/2014-08-future-fast-chips-graphene-silicon.html - li-ion batteries (cheaper, more capacity, higher discharge with less risks..basicaly the perfect super capacitor) - bendable displays with no need for protection glass (as pure graphene sheets are harder than diamond) https://www.explainthatstuff.com/graphene.html - IP class that surpass IP69K as graphene with nano coating will basically make water bounce of the surface https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IP_Code We for sure will be in the next technological era (2025-30?) when this breaks through on a big scale and all silicon manufacturers have accepted the fact and built new plants to support it...and by then, lets hope EUCs are still available and not banned by policiticans (as they seem to ban everything that brings joy to life of people that are just slight more dangerous than eating lettuce, organic and definitely not treated with any chems before cropping ) Nokia tried this 2012 with nano tech + graphene sensor to detect it https://youtu.be/ymbFfoiHbOg While not exactly the same, the "rest of the world" found this out around 6 years later - hail Nokia https://phys.org/news/2018-01-flexible-water-repellent-graphene-circuits-washable.html Nokia has been on this at least since 2011, and long before that if my memery serves me https://www.graphene-info.com/nokia?page=3 and is still pushing the subject albeit a bit "in the dark" as its not really industrially accepted yet (You know - money involved) When i first read about graphene, i think around 2010-12 (I know it was ages ago), I was sure it would just kill the market within 5 years or so, but now its 2019 and 2020 it seems like companies are just starting to scrape the surface with actual products. All this from simple graphite, - You can actualy make graphene out of an ordinare graphite pen and some tape - amazing isn't it https://phys.org/news/2010-12-graphene-pencil-sticky-tape-videos.html and it was on Youtube allready 2010 and likely there are videos that go further back as from what I have seen it started somehwere around 2004
  14. 1. Check the deviation of your meter. Mine is pretty good but at 0-400V the max dev is +/-0.7V and app, noone know for sure ad it likely differs between wheels (and how app interprets it) 2. My charger also gave less than nominal, read this thread and other threads on charging, its all in there already. Also read on https://batteryuniversity.com/ 3. From what i have read, wheel should be fully charged at least every 10th charge cycle for balancing. In between you can double or tripe total amount of charge cycles (before battety dies) by only charging 80-90% (or less,but...why). Read more on http://hobby16.neowp.fr/2016/12/01/voltage-threshold-on-charge-doctor/
  15. Ok, i measured charger output 82.5V before and battery nominal voltage is 84V on the Tesla, so too low. Hence opened charger, removed tack from trim pot vr 1 - then suddenly charger is at 83V. Tried adjusting slightly like 1/50 of a turn at a time and boom now it charges 84.2V and regardless if I turn the trim one FULL revolution cw or ccw it stays at 84.2V. i wonder if i killed the pot when i removed the tack? So now i have started balancing allowing 5-6hours with green led. Reported voltage from wheel log after roughly 15h charging from 20% was 83.5-6V (before 82.3-7 when full / green after maybe 12hours). I have stopped over the night and now charging again at green LED for a few hours and it now at 83.6V as reported by the app (can i measure more exact right at the charger input pins of the Tesla, i mean will that show battery voltage or is there electronics in between the f up the value?) As you say, a voltage measurement of each battery would be optimal and a automated battery fault checking in the app would be lovely. That will not happen now, but if they dont kill EUC through governments, more companies and people will join and quality will increase. If they kill it, all EUCists will "go dark", quality wil fail and people will get hurt or die. But that's up to politicians to decide, which outcome they want for us human beings ;-)
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