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About Boogieman

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  • Birthday 07/03/1973

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    Tesla 1.2 1040Wh Ninebot Mini Plus

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  1. Proposal for - startup sound. I AM YOUR FATHER - cutout warning TRUST THE FORCE LUKE 😁
  2. I have been through some meassuring, quite some time ago on my tesla. All the info in this thread. Guys there were insanely helpfull so a readthrough might give you all answers...and some additional info
  3. For the record, the products that didn't mix well. http://www.zefal.com/en/prevent/164-z-sealant.html Cant find the exact same kit on zefals home page, but its this one https://www.bike24.com/p2177640.html
  4. @Marty Backe Its ok to disagree, or we would still be cavemen 😉, but I would still try to clarify my point, for the sake of others not to end up like I did. As saying goes, a picture says more than a thousand words. While it has now dried up Its pretty easy to see where the rubber devulked and went into a goey mess, when the leak was fresh and Zefal "slime" was oozing out. This was very obvious as I inflated the tube to see where it leaked after the fact. Could be that zefal slime & zefal patches dont work well together (and they missed to test that part) and Your "green slime" works better with your patches. But here's my story
  5. I normally agree with You Marty, but i have to agree to disagree on this one I can't agree with your final comment in the video. As per my experience, never patch a (EUC) tube that previously contained slime. To me, it costed me my index finger (allmost, thanks Surgeons) More on the subject 2. Plastic on patch should come off clean. You probably used to much vulk (or didn't spread all the way to the edges or didnt allow it to dry long enough. 3. Swapping tyre with batteries connceted 😳 that is GUTSY. Drop a screw on mainboard and POOF!! (like the one under trolley or the ones holding trolley that you need to remove reach the one under trolley) Here is a image walkthrough that i made some time ago, with some more details, note its for tesla v1, and by means of also removing batteries and discharging main board (and at least on v1 you need to remove trolley handle one side + tape under handle)
  6. I made a walkthrough with images some while ago under tyres, maybe should have been under DIY? ANYWAY, HERE GOES
  7. Not really. More like moving toward spare time interests for a bigger amount of hours, rather than working my way to the grave with money unspent but still work enough to not go stagnant and keep in touch with "Reality"
  8. Running my own consultant firm since 2002 at 120%+ first 15-ish years, but trying to work less last couple of years aiming towards 50% (trying.. it's hard not to work...especially when everyone else are) for more spare time and less tax (work) which is just silly where i live (Sweden). Was employed before that in the same line of work ..and as a consultant..for some 6 years. Specialised in (degree + working with) Automation (robotics, HMI, frequency inverters, servo, plc programming in the 4 "official languages" or 6 if you ask some suppliers a.s.o). Programming has kinda been with me and an interest since i was a kid, first computer (ZX spectrum) at 7 y.o....today thats normal or even late, but back then home pcs were pretty uncommon. Monitors back then was a TV with a RF modulator . Interlaced all the way LOL. And quality engineer (ISO9000 and the likes) brought me over to becoming a test engineer the last few 4-5-6-7 or something years (lowt track), with programming still in my line of work on a side track / add-on. Mechanics also line up with my interest (bikes and cars amd whatnot) so I normally take full ownership on most projects (though not leading and meeting hysteria, ill leave that to the power point lovers that love to push me 🙈 and i don't mind as long as i am allowed to deliver quality rather than rush work) Feel like its time for a change though, not sure in what branch but considering a more adventurous branch like starting up a company in my spare time around my spare time interests...also time to move to a different country, really fed up with Sweden and how its governed. Would love to move to Australia or NZ. They know how to run a country + people seem perfectly open and friendly without any "add-on-mask". Seems simply like the perfect continent and the wild life, diving a.s.o. seem 😍
  9. I can. 1st and foremost and the thing i see people doing "the wrong way" over and over on Youtube. Easiest way to change tyre is to do it one the "non motor cable side" (im sure you know that allready @Marty Backe) as that means no need to disconnect any motor cables, just side panels off, battery off, discharge, remove that shell half and off you go with tyre/tube change, wheel still attached to motor cable side of chassis and that pedal, ring light still attached (pedal helps stabilize it when your working even) 2nd regarding time saving AND CONS on a split tube solution. This "split tyre" while easy to change (will come to that) would never end up on my euc. In the "split" of the halves you would with 99% certainty get a small uneveness in counter pressure towards the tyre. With the pressure we run on EUC (far above stated pressure on most tyres) that means a pretty bumpy ride every turn of the wheel. While it might be acceptable going straight, I for one dont want a tyre that bumps in a turn as that could cause me to loose grip and end up in a horizontal body position ;-) Likely ad bad or worse than a severely dented RIM. Why its easier with a split tube? Well you pry off the tyre without splitting shell halves (can be done, but might get some brusies) and that would work on a Tesla if i remove part of the the ring light and lower "plastic piece". As soon as the tyre is pryed off from one side of the tyre pull out the old hose and insert the new split one while rotating the wheel. For sure you will need talkum and do a few rounds to feel its properly in place and...it will be tricky, but it would save a lot of time vs in my case -splitting shell (forcefully due to silicone) and disconnect battery + ring light + one pedal + trolley (one side to get to a screw) (Change tube here) - remove and reapply silicone on shell halves (i prefer that above the gotway tape at motherboard, not keen on water) - reassemble (6 for pedal hangers one side + 10 for shell + 2+3 screws for trolley a bunch of snap on plastic) - re-insert batteries and reconnect - re attach 2* panels (2*4 screws) and 1 pedal Above is the time i save, but inrather do that and ride SAFE than using some bumpy split tube :-) I dont even want to think about the risk of a blowout at the 2x places where this split tube is "sealed together". A blowout there would mean 1-2seconds till you ride on a rim 🙈
  10. This thread is pretty old, but I landed here when googling tyre pressure. Im now on my 4th tyre on my Tesla and DAMN i t felt odd. 1st tyre was the CST factory mounted. Rode that one till the thread (or lack thereof) was shiny. Think it said max 50psi (binned it). Probably my favourite tyre, probably since i learnt riding on it and rode it so long. 2nd was a Kenda K924-003 street tyre, PSI range on tyre 40-65. Very quick steered at 50-55psi that I preferred, extremely FUN tyre but a bit more nervous than CST due to the steering. 3rd tyre Kenda K-50-001 knobby (more like a BMX tyre). Max 40PSI cold stamped. Rode at 45-ish and this was one comfy tyre to ride on and off-road. Only downside is that you ride the edge of the pattern on asphalt in turns so it was a bit wiggly on road when pushing it. Also the softest tyre sideways. You could feel it shift in turns. I had 3 punctured hoses on this one, so that was it. Time to change back to thick rubber street. 4th tyre Chao Yang H-5102 street tyre. Max 36PSI stamped 😣(and max 70Kg 🙄 as well). Habe only ridden it maybe 10km at 50psi, but the first rides i thought i had a puncture as it wouldn't follow my lead. Checked it and rode on and after a few kms it felt better, but GOD DAMN this tyre steers quick and it wants to stay upright in a totally different way than previous tyres. Very odd feeling, a bit like the z10 but not as extreme, but when you just touch the pedal it turns insanely fast and sharp...but then imediatelly want to go upright again. I guess.i will have to give it some more milage before intry different pressures but wanted to hear if someone tested this one out and felt the same. I'm thinking of dropping pressure to 40-45psi (quite low as im 213 lbs) to see if it changes behaviour. Not sure if i wanna try higher like 55-60 based on the printed max pressure (but i guess thats only for tubeless?). Very strange tyre, but i think if I give it some 50-100km i will probably love it. Could also be that i come from the mushy knobby tyre that was pretty slow steered but super-comfy
  11. Tubeless pros & cons (my view) PROS: - More resistant to puncture, especially with slime (thicker rubber to seal against + no risk of de-vulking any patches with slime) - Slower air loss vs tube = more time to react on a puncture (a hole on a thin tube just needs to pass fractions of a mm of rubber and blows out the air between rim and tyre + valve hole) - "Easier" (with the right tools) and cheaper to fix puncture temporary (no need to remove tyre if you want to temporary rubber plug it, but if at all long time mending is considered, the plug should be drawn from the inside of the tyre and out after drilling apropriate hole size) - Less rotational mass due to no tube (unless the tubeless tyre is heavier in itself) - often tyre side wall stifness is higher leading to less sideway shift when turning, at least on motor bike tyres. CONS - slime can disolve corded part of tyre, causing a tyre explosion. - Risky business to DIY a switch to tubeless. EUC rims seem to be made for bicycle tyres or there would be more companies going tubeless. The rim bead on a tubeless tyre (and most of all rim) is different than a bicycle non tubeless rim/tyre. https://www.bicycling.com/skills-tips/a27628336/tubeless-tires-guide/
  12. Link doesn't go direct to the v2 1480, but looking it up in the storeI Itnow says 1500Wh, maybe just rounded up the wattage?
  13. To me 1. Sherman was welcomed as a (hopefully) more qualitative option to (cable mess & glue gun bob & plastic fantastic screw attachment) Gotway. 2. A wheel fast enough i dont need to worry bout cut off when cruising at 50-60km/h 3. Range is tied together with safety and battery. Bigger batt pack gives range, but also a higher speed without cutoff for a longer stretch. Aka you can ride 60km/h for a longer time without worry. But problems for new manufacturers on the first wheel arose (expected). - Not enough clearance due to bottom steel bar - Rust and solder blobs in russian sherman (ecodrift) and i also saw some in marty backes video - Pedals to narrow (epsecially at the front where foot is wide) - Price, there is that. It costs as much as a decent 10 y.o. car 😁 or a new motor bike with far higher quality and safety. - Leaky LCD (china manufacturing quality still obviously, if they cant seal an LCD with today's excellent sealants its either shitty work or wrong product used=shitty engineering. A bit like gotway outting tape on tesla to prevent water from spraying main board in the split of the shell halves HAHA) - Overheat hill failure Weight was my first worry but Veteran had been thinking one time to xtra and made a truly balanced wheel, so that didn't become an issue I was extremely eager to get a sherman before summer but didnt due to delivery time. Now they have to provve they are better than gotway. They started out well with roll cage and metallic inserts for screws + balanced batt packs, but fucked up on a lot of other stuff. Still, i would probably rather get the Sherman v2 (2021?) Than another gotway. But of course optimal would be a nonebot z20
  14. Looks like a pinched tube (hard to tell from image, but looks lie worn tube edge just below valve, but maybe its the tyre edge). Unless tube pressure ever dropped to zero and You rolled it at zero, its a fault at assembly. If You had no issues with flats and it just happened, its a bad tube and or bad tyre. Check warranty....could have ended up real bad...not just monetary. At 80Km You should be rolling like new unless You hit a kerb or something at high speed but then You would also see rim dents! As a comparison my first CST lasted 3000Km before flat (no pattern) on a Tesla
  15. Also be aware that You must not inflate the tube to stated pressure without the tyre (preventing tube bulge). That will destroy the tube (mostly). But if I were You I would order a tube (min 1) and a tyre of course. You will need it in time Maybe the tyre could be replaced on warranty? (no clue, a suggestion) but still it takes time, so I would count that as a "free spare"
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