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About Boogieman

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 07/03/1973

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  • EUC
    Tesla 1.2 1040Wh Ninebot Mini Plus

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  1. I am not sure that Gotway would be considered a very qualitative manufacturer, based on the build of the wheels (sketchy fastening of a non rigid shell that holds up 10 or so Kg of battery "explosives" :-) And looking at the footplate construction...well...ZERO bushings = insane play (even when new) after som 1 000 km of riding + ingress point of dirt right into the shaft vs aluminum pedal = imediate wear. I lub mine up with high viscosity fat to keep "dirt out" and "lube inside" but have plans to machine up wmd of all holes and insert bushings. The only caveat is that im not sure there will be enough material left as they dont seem to use high quality aluminium nor is it machined, just a cast detail. Then we go to mainboard...not the best soldering, not is water repellant laquer high quality (dirt below), sketchy cable managment...if any to be called management And fastening of battery packs with double side adhesive... kind of a joke in my opinion. Safety features...no battery level or power outage adaptive tiltback means that if you activate tiltback it will work for a set battery percentage...if you play ot safe younset it to be safe when at 20% battery but then top speed will be a joke I would LOVE if Ninebot made a wheel with gotway speed and handling and their far superior internal build quality. The z10 is not nimble enogh imo but a smaller tyre/rim would help with that. But yeah, I have no clue if this polish firm has made a great job internally. They have at least chosen premium cells for the extra battpack and at a acceptable peice point. But things like a laser pointer connected with the beeper for 99$ ? A laser led is like a couple of dollars and the work is a hole and two cables (worst case an amplifier board with a transistor). If they would have added a few extra beepers so it also works in dsylight fine, but laser is only safe at night and most people i know run faster daytime than night so its not the best solution but a step in the right direction. I am not saying i aint intrigued, but home page doesnt seem to show right prices even. For example it says monster pedals are included if buying a wheel from them but you have to select them and when you do it still adds on the price. Laser i though was included but its not. Who knows, maybe the modified product is just as safe or safer. Maybe the motor is of better quality..and cables...and cable management...and BMSes (as i understand it, not very clear, the extra bat pack has two additional BMSes...but as i said this is not clesrly described on their home page? As many hsve said, there is too little info, ro little images of build quality on their mod for me to spend 3000$ when a msp is 1600$ from Ali... I hope they will be more transparent cause then i will be able to decide on facts..not one you tuber that comes from poland just as EUC services (i am not saying he is sponsored, but who knows. I know he is a great reviewer at least :-) ) Gonna check a teardown of the mss and see how it looks inside. Have Not found "wrong way" doing a teardown, have you?
  2. Nice, though i dont wanna drill any holes nor put too much effort into it. I might add a amplifier board so i can mount 4 buzzers intrnrslly though :-) should be fairly easy...tgink I read it here..in your thread?
  3. Lots of space heh, feeling that you might wanna scare them pesky thieves away, maybe also wanna scare some drivers that cross your path heh? Jack a few of theese up to an alarm that also connects to phone by bluetooth :-) dual usage as horn when the internal one isn't loud enough, i guess 5-10 of theese should make any illgal citicen BOUNCE https://m.banggood.com/5-PCS-Super-Loud-5V-Active-Alarm-Buzzer-Beeper-Tracker-95_5mm-for-Racing-Drone-p-1117207.html?rmmds=search#popupStatedetail or something similar...there are those 120dB piezo alarms as well :-) no problem to hear "the beep" :-p
  4. Don't want to "allow rain" to get inside it. Ill just bolt it onto the chassis, remove tape and add an extra "thick plastic disc washer" in between.. Wheel is completed for now...thread updated
  5. @Delmeekc Confirmed. Buzzer is not as loud as i remember it. It will have to do for now, still have ear buds with warnings and tiltback at 45. Have to ride at least a weekend :-) to see how the things i did affect the ride like: - new tyre brand and model (kenda) - tightened up the mount of the circuit board that holds the gyro (before it was a bit rattly loose) - new extreme pedal angle for ground clearance, might be to much to the point my ankles will hurt. - Or course see the paint job when mounted until i crash again at least LOL Then dismantle, screw that shitty beeper into the chassis and put it back togehter. I had a feeling i wad gonna regret putting it with sticky tape LOL
  6. A pity all the images are gone :-/ useful info, thanks
  7. Thanks for the info. I haven't tested it yet. Its worrying if it will get less loud now due to being mounted with soft self adhesive tape (in used the foam kind), then i have to split everything AGAIN 🙈 Assembly almost complete, just fiddling with battery shelves
  8. - The Tesla looks pretty BORING with its snazzy fake carbon fibre and black trim. - The buzzzer also can not be heard properly at speed and for sure not by people in front when used as a horn - The fastening of the plastic chassis that hold the 1000Wh battery pack and main board, wasnt fastened in a qualitative way. Very eager to crack around those tiny screws and washers. Basically, we need to remould this "China build" into something that holds up, can be heard and looks nice(ish) 3 fairly simple things Paint that shit uuuup 1a Remove trim (clicks off) 1b Repaint the trim - sand down (180-240 grit as last step) - clean very carefully (i used soap and water, dry, then alcohol) make sure all dust is gone and that especially big marks are clean all the way into the bottom - base coat/primer for plastic (2 layers or until even coat). You can see a few marks shining through...bad cleaning or too little coat. Sand area around the mark lightly keeping the coat but smoothing the edges, clean and coat again. - (Optional, fill big pits scrapes with some kind of filler like plastic padding, sand and base coat..im lazy and i know i will scrape it again ) - paint (3 layers flouroscent green + 2 layers chrome for me) -varnish (2-3 layers), only left one varnished with one layer on the green below Tried to colour manage photo how it looks IRL but Acid green flourescent is really hard...but about like this 2 move the beeper 2a Split the wheel (dont miss the tape under the circuit board holding the shell together at the end). Disconnect batteries & press power button to empty the capacitors. They hold A LOT of charge A LONG time. 2b Screw of beeper and remove the plastic cork-screw wrap from its cables CAREFULLY. The other tiny cables are the HALL sensor cables and they are solid core so very easy to break (idiots choice of cables in an EUC). I took the chance to cable manage those while in the progress as mine were bent in a curl up fashion. Straightened them (very carefully making sure i did NOT bend them more than ONE time as several bends will break them) and electric taped them to the power cables a few centimeters and then refitted cork screw wrapping partially over motor and sensor cables and then toward the card of course only the sensor cables. Like this. I also sealed the holes from the beeper...they are on both sides of chassis as the chassis part is the same mould. 2c move the beeper "inside" the shell, the best flat spot i found was right next to the circuit board, it should still be fairly protected here as its next to the circuit board that I hope is protected Also managed all the cables here together to a package, supported by the main harness to the front panel. 2d I used double sided sticky tape to fasten it, didn't want to drill any holes. Time will tell if that was a stupid choice (if it will come loose and dangle around inside the shell) DONE, now start putting wheel back togehter but first Fasten the shell better with new washers But first some maintenance, check around the holes for hair line cracks. If found, drill a tiny hole (1mm is plenty) RIGHT in the end of the crack (to prevent it from continuing) and fill the hole with your filler of choice (to prevent water from entering through the hole). As per below one of the cracks cant be drilled obviously as it sllready end in holes but the left one can. 3a. Create your 6 washers. They should be 52*11mm (not more than 12 as then the wont fit) , thickness as per choice, I went for 4mm aluminium Hole CC is 34mm and diameter 5.5mm Look at those paper thin (non stainless) original washers....laughable. 3b Choose a new screw, of course longer due to the beefier "mega washer". I prefer allen hex a lot more than star as I can tighten them easier (and more if wanted) 3c Add a flat washer (or serrated if you dont use thread lock, i prefer flat + blue loctite thread lock) on top of your mega washer and fasten it up Additional maintenance while at it, add some reinforcement to the battery compartment. For example sandwhich a piece of plastic with loctite glue against this fragile plastic wall taking the hit from the batteries att every bump. Also change the adhesive tape for the batteries to something really sticky (but of course not to the point you can't remove them) to prevent them from moving too much. Below i removed all the adhesive tape to see the hidden damage. My friend had this too so I guess all ridden Teslas do and MSX es DONE :-) Now i just need to finish my paint job and put it all together. Will also add washers to increase angle of pedals. Will post an image when all is done. All done...here it is... playground seemed fitting...toys for big boys :-) Flourescent under UV (lit with a 3led UV light used to harden the glue for phone glass protection..with some light from the back) But the main advantage is how it rides, its a completely new wheel to ride feeling wise. It's still very nimble, but i guess the increased pedal angle makes it less nervous too as you dont PUSH DOWN like before (maybe a bit extreme but i need the clearance in both sharp turns where i constantly scrape the ledals and in the woods to avoid stones and whatnot). Also means i have to raise my kuji pads (one is with velcro allready, the other one is getting velcro too now, so covenient to adapt for different choe sole thicknesses) The Kenda tyre pumped A LOT harder (4+ BAR) than the old CHIENG shin (msxed out at 3.1Bar) did not make it nervous or bumpy... Right now turns are smoother than ever. Maybe because the tyre is once again round in profile as opposed to allmost square on my worn SS 🤪 Yep, it was time to change...4000km it lasted...not bad when loaded with 95Kg rider +20kg wheel & equipment :-)
  9. I moved the buzzer on my gw tesla 1.2 from batter pack compartment towards the front "air inlet holes" as in image, since i will use it as a horn (front facing homes) with EUC world and my Samsung watch + i am pretty sure i will hear it a tiny bit better. BUT....Optimally I would like one more on other side of chassis + 1 per battery compartment as there are allready pre drilled holes. I was thinking 2in series on each side. Then each side in parallell. That would keep the voltake level correct and just increase the amps from the main board and....COME ON a buzzer cant barely draw amps that would burn anything unless those Chinese guys seriously under dimensioned EVERYTHING :-)
  10. Isn't it possible allready today? Or does the app need a port towards glasses (due to different rez) otherwize ima thinking vuzix, albeit expensive as f (for the screen real estate) it might be an option for early adopters? Dunno bout the alexa glasses? Sounds like audio based right? https://www.wareable.com/ar/the-best-smartglasses-google-glass-and-the-rest OFF TOPIC @redfoxdude how on earth did you manage to make a gif work on your avatar on this forum. You obviously techie (guessing younger than me) cause my gif (geezer format) sure as f wont move :-)
  11. I really LOVE the techie side in you (me being a techie myself) but in this case im split. On one hand this is very early and cool On the other hand Intel is working with something much more refined...but will probably cost a half fortune :-S Untill any kinda glassses comes with an integrated rear view mirror (camera) (which the monochrome camera of the intels would do poooorly) that displays live in the hud that i can chooose to block my vision or not...like the intels .., i dont think i need the EUC data that close....sure when navigating via a phone its nice, but today i hear the directions in my galaxy buds and thats ok most of the time. But.....then i know your EUC world app/fork and that you somehow make wonders that people havent even considered so....if u feel like having a heda up yourself and miss coding...and have time to invest...by all means go ahead and surprise us .. AGAIN 😎
  12. Bikinis get smaller Boobs get bigger EUC's get stronger The 2000's isn't a bad period to be alive :-)
  13. Thanks for all the replies. I have tried looking with my eyes from every single angle and taking photos with and without flash, but i can not see"past the laquer bubbles" add they reflect what i see covering the solder joint. One leg looks like a cold joint in the image, but that's just burnt flux (all other legs look well soldered on top and the ones i can see looking under the board on the tiny gap also below. Reason i got worried was that my last "crash" was a low speed crash into a low steel pole (was taking of and came to a sudden stop and when looking down i saw wheel fighting to accelerate causing the horrible overload sound (hum) so i immediately stepped off (with cracks in my big toe its later turned out). I was really scared i had burned a MFET but i could roll away without problems. Since it's the center FET its also the one most likely to overheat getting heat from the other fets, but i guess since the wheel is spinning all of them are ok, or could the wheel function with one of them broken? I have not made any high speed runs after this due to my toe
  14. I noted that my active 1 (new) watch time between recharges went from 48 hours to less than 24 after installing and trying the app out. Do i need to close it somehow to prevent power draw? Will check more specifically what happens, but as of now that is the only thing i did from one day to next. Only tested it a few minutes since my wheel is in pieces being rebuilt, re-tyred, re-painted as we speak :-) moved the beeper closer to the front holes on the tesla so the horn (internal beeper mode) can be heard BETTER (and i will hear beeps pre crash better). Increase for pedal angle for ground clearance. Drilling to end of cracks and adding home made HUUUGE thick aluminum washers for the mount of the plastics to the pedal/hub brackets (horrible China solution originally with super thin washers and M5 screws *6*2 holding the entire weight of batteries) I had cracks running from many holes so these need to be stopped with a hole and then mega washers covering entire plastic surface to distribute the load better
  15. Oh, i could se the laquer if i zoom first photo. But here is a non resized zoomed screenshot (max limit 3Mb prevents full sized images)
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