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Boogieman

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Everything posted by Boogieman

  1. I am relly looking forward to Sherman v2 2021. But for sure there are things to fix on a 3K â‚Ŧ wheel, a few MUSTS: - No solder blobs or rust in motor internals Source: https://ecodrift.ru/2020/07/05/razbiraem-veteran-sherman-iz-pervoj-postavki-mnogo-udivitelnyh-otkrytij/ 2. Wider pedals. they are even slimmer than the Tesla Pedals that are slim allready for "normal feet in EU / USA". 3. No frying boards - tiltback or decrease power if "fry limit" is close. Its not a wheel meant to die on doing 75km/h or fall of a cliff doing hills. That wont do any good to EUC community (or the user), At theese speeds its not common sense ONLY, there needs to be some kind of fail safe for the general people. If some Young crazy riders wanna ride the beep, go ahead, but dont hurt others in the process and dont say that the wheel is good enough when its not. 4. Better clearance (for tubing at least) Wants: 4. No solid wired for hall sensors as this is a recipe for failure after x nr of vibrations (I know GW does have this too, but why copy a bad feature?) 5. Better insulation for motor cables (the good stuff with fibre glass as on the Tesla v.1.2 and other wheels too im sure 6. Separate the cables from factory - cable manage. How hard can it be 7. Properly sealed LCD (Speedy feet couldn't turn off wheel after going in rain (as expected when capilary forces draws water into the LCD and button Source: 8. Add fastening points for shell in pedal hangers higher up by extending pedal hangers behind the trolley (to reduce stress on plastic chassis at a crash) as those GW mounting points around wheel axle isn't even enough for a comparingly light GW wheel. My19 Kg Tesla even have cracks here, 9. Probably forgot someting, but I hope they will sort above out at least for v2
  2. After doing it a few times, i found a way to split it open and remove tyre and tube in about 20minutes. Here goes, do not drop screws down in battery compartment in step 1. 1. Snap of outer skirt, start at the top with the overlying part. Mark up corresponding battery and BMS CONNECTORS (i use a permanent marker with 1,2,3 aso dots on connecting cables/connectors but it rubs of easy so tape is better. Remove batteries (and covers, 2 screws beneath top foam and 2 beneath plastic piece pedal height...2 snaps and a center pin to remove plastic piece) on both sides PRESS POWER BUTTON (a few times) WHEN BATTERIES ARE DISCONNECTED TO DISCHARGE CAPACITORS. WHEEL WILL BEEP. WHEN IT DOESN'T BEEP, YOU ARE FINE. NO RESIDUAL VOLTAGE. 2. Remove pedal on non motor cable side (keep other one on for stability) 3. Loosen 3-4 screws for trolley handle on one side and remove all screws holding the alu extender on same side. Remove alu from handle by opening up and move away from pin. Then remove the alu extender Push the" half handle" back down in shell to stay out of the way NOTE!!! If its the first time you split the shell, remove the adhesive tape located right under the control board ( i guess it's there to prevent water from spraying on control board as shell is not very water proof) 4. Remove the screw that was covered by the trolley extender + same screw one opposite side. Screws from here on are LONGER, KEEP THEM SEPARATE (easier to assemble without thinking) 5. Remove four screws on motor cable side holding shell together 6. Remove NON motor cable side screws holding shell to pedal-holders. (crappy construction with fastening so close to each other, look for cracks and drill end of crack with 1-1.5mm drill bit to prevent further cracks. Fill drill hole with i.e. silicone). If wanted make bigger washers or at least replace the super thin non stainless ones with proper washers and screws with hex head) 7. NOW Remove 4 screws holding shell together on other side. 8. Carefully splt shell (lift straight up as control board partially slide into this half) part on non motor cable side and DISCONNECT the connector for that sides LED strip BEFORE removing cover 9. Ready to change tyre or tube 10. I find it easier to use one tyre lever to make first lift and lock it under pedal hanger making sure not to pinch tube when inserting lever (tubes are hard as f... To find and delivery from China 3-4Weeks so go slow) Then using hand to push down tyre to center of rim on opposite side or all around (where rim is deepest), using 2nd lever to bend up enough tyre to be able to lift the rest of by hand....or use another lever to pry tyre off. 3 levers = friend helps, but 2 levers worked for me all times. Then remove tube and the rest is a breeze (other side of tyre bead comes off easy) Change tube tyre or whatever and assemble in reverse order :-) I USE silicone to seal the shell halves back together to make sure water cant reach control board. It requires some slow bending when prying shell halves apart at next disassembly, but to me its worth the 1-2 minutes of slow prying (listening to the silicone crack open) to feel safe(r) in case of water splashes. If you want tape instead (or as well) remove control board after seatimg the two halves together and fixing them with screws. I also added some electric tape on edges of control board to prevent rattle as its quite loosely fitted. Don't forget to loctite screws at pedal hangers and screws holding pedal pins hopefully it helps, most YT videos remove entire shell and control board and DISCONNECT motor cables, totally unnecessary. Waste of time, where you can be riding
  3. @Scottie888 I am in a VERY similar point in life/decision making myself (except I want range rather than toy..i allready have a toy..the tesla), tried everything that is fun (motor bikes, race cars, parachute jumping a few years aso), but now stuck on EUCS because as you say... this old school unstable ride, makes it much more fun at 50 than a motor bike at 150 + 1 wheel removed Got Tesla v 1.2 (3rd year). Was planning to swap this year, but veteran delivery time was like 1.5month = summer over here. And it has shown a few childhood diseases that i prefer they sort out before i order 2021 on Sherman v2? (Or whatever), if not there are options, that all were new 2020 as well. KS18S (worried bout motor cable failure due to constant twisting and China quality = non imdustry standard on cables like that...aka they will break within a couple of 10-100'000 cycles...like a year worth of damping on the (off)road + ks18 needs at least 15-1800Wh inmotion, nah damped pedals not for me GW trying to catch up, no way. They cant even cable manage a wheel without damper LOL Money aint an issue, but i dont plan to get closer to death due to some cellar company in China that are just in it for the money. Have had my fair amount of crashes allready and i feel i am satisfied on that point so main goal (if they fix kinder garten issues) is Sherman model 2021. Otherwise... KS would be second most reliable choice (inmotion too, i guess, but dont like anything about it...and its french...we all know how well electronics works on Citroen and Peugot :-) ) Could also be that i go for the z10...its for sure a well built wheel (better build quality than any other wheel) and now well tested + ONLY TUBELESS TYRE WHEEL on the market as of now...i have had 3 punctures leading to crashes (last one slit my index finger on dominant hand right open on a fence) so tubeless conversion possibility is a must on any "next wheel" to me. Though the range and speed of the Sherman...i like. Just dont want to see solder blobs on engine coils and rust in engine + high temp capacitors needed + wider pedals needes + sealed LCD + better clearance for roll bar for sure
  4. My main gripes with a tubed tyre. If you get a snake bite puncture for example on the tube, you will experience allmost instant blowout. Or basically you notice its oddly soft (hopefully not in very high speeds) and start to brake, before you have had time to finish braking balance is lost and then shortly after the wheel rim starts making noises from touching asphalt (if you still are one the EUC). Have had one seep puncture (my first experience), luckily stopped in time for that one and didnt understand what happened...wheel felt oddly soft. Ad soon as i stepped up and tried to roll off it just veered right with no chance to counter steer so stopped at once (from maybe 5km/h)..no oncoming traffic luckily. After that ia have had two snake bite punctures where the last one (probably smake bite too.. haven't opemed up yet) sent me into a fence which slit my index finger wide open. If it would have been tubeless...that would likely not have happened as the hole size is miniature in comparison going through thick rubber amd protevtive layer (if there even would be a hole) and with slime on top probably nothing would have happened. The pressures stated on most of my my tires are more than enough for a EUC. My 16*2.125 (57-305) Kenda K923-093 is rated 2.8-4.6Bar and tubed i run around 3.2-3.5Bar. Haven't had any issues with that, just with the tube. My recent 16*2.125 (57-305) Kenda (a bit) knobby K50-001 is just rated 2.8Bar which is on the low side for tubeless though at my weight. Have been running 3-3.2bar tubed without issues, except the tube puncture of course. So to me, I see benefits in tubeless as I am guessing it would prevent this kind of blowout punctures. Problem is I can't make the Tesla tubeless due to location of the nozzle (too close to rim edge)
  5. A few major things to fix for Sherman v2 to make it perfect. It is still AWESOME but to make all worries set to zero: 1. High temp capacitors (didnt fare well on over heat hill) and maybe even better cable insulation (or thicker cables) and non solid core hall sensor cables if I could make a wish. 2. Wider pedals (to fit big footed Europeans and Americans) 3. No rust or solder blobs in motor (https://ecodrift.ru/2020/07/05/razbiraem-veteran-sherman-iz-pervoj-postavki-mnogo-udivitelnyh-otkrytij/ ) 4. Better clearance for "roll cage" - preferably same height as pedals 5. Add fastening points for pedal hangers higher up by extending pedal hangers behind the trolley (to reduce stress on plastic chassis at a crash) as those GW mountin points around wheel axle isn't even enough for a comparingly light GW wheel
  6. Cut cable on LED side is easy to check if it's FULLY cut. Remove LED cover on the side thst dont shine. Pull slightly at the cable end going toward inside wheel, DO NOT PULL HARD. ITS TINY csbles and connectors connecting led strip to control board cable and they camt stand any major forces. Next step to fix..or look on..., remove the NON MOTOR CABLE side of the covers. Then move on to split shell. Instructions how to, think I did one, otherwise youtube. Allways remove both batteries first and power on wheel without batteries to discharge capacitors. The rest is fairly easy, only thing hard to see is the piece of tape under control board holding the shell halves together and the screws inside battery compartments (one needs removing one side of trolley handle to reach). Rest of screws are beneath the external trim (one going around circumference of wheel, snap it open at the top)
  7. Cool, so they built in a transformer of some kind I guess. Though i also found this info further down. 6-8.4Vīŋŧ But with this one the battery could be skipped entirely https://www.tradera.com/item/1708/383408857/usb-till-dc-9v-plugg-5-5x2-5-mm?shopping&gclid=CjwKCAjwltH3BRB6EiwAhj0IUA3LZD7GXnevKVFudqVChvMiWRL5g7WuzVfJzCyqDrVQE7UfoRnoRhoC780QAvD_BwE
  8. And so does my beautifully aged Tesla v1.2 😍 Though, I am the kind of guy that only ride the hard mode. I can't stand the sluggish response on soft and medium is still not reactive enough. So to me, go ahead and make Hard Granite hard Diamond hard Modes 😁
  9. You would have to get a 9V + charge voltage. If you could find that in the wheel.. You don't need the battery (usb is 5V). I am no electronic expert but i guess it would be possible.to.upconvert 5v to 9v also for DC with a transformer?
  10. Its a proof of nothing. 1. 50% voltage sag, "some of the guys said"? So the voltage went from 100.2V to 50.1V, that would put battery meter at zero (or negative). Nr 1, get the facts right :-) 2. A cutout is something a wheel doesn't recover from until power off on (or well, thats how gotway recover...which I guess the guys refer everything to...one manifacturer) If guys chirping would know that,they wouldn't call that a cutout. A different profile on sudden movements in 0-5 km/h YES CUTOUT 😂
  11. It might beep when you turn on...as battery has been "resting 24h"....but after that the sag sets in (when its on the limit)...and thats when you normally ride. But you could honk every now and then making sure you hear the beep And of course if the crash doesnt occur the ssme time the batt goes out, you would hear it not beeping turning it off.
  12. I have been looking for such an option both in phone "galaxy wearable app" and in watch settings and advanced settings but i couldn't find it. Any pointers where i can find that setting.... :-) edit: I went to display settings on the phone (galaxy wearable) and there is a setting called "show last app" - within 20 seconds. is it that one...hahah in that case that wording is sooo f.ed up (could at least have written "for 20seconds" as within sounds like something....i dunno...never understood that setting) and why on earth not make that setting APP DEPENDENT, Its not like i want to show weather for one hour 🙈😂 Ok, Samsung obviously have a few paces to take to get their SW to the status of their phones. I see 1 hour choice here, so i guess i have to live with having the last app i glanced at showing up for an hour....man this will be sick ... I wanna check the time at work...soery last app was media norifications.... jeezus, they could have just written, auto switch to watch (face...app...display) after: xx seconds. @Seba Can You "hack your way around this" (stupid setting) from Sammy? Like sending a "wake-up" to the watch app every 19 seconds...there is also a setting 2 minutes so a "wake up" every 1min59sec would also do the trick I guess 👊 We know You are the man to get things done, if Sammy hired You I would probably stay at them forever (based on your app quality), but next phone will probably be a Nokia...kinda fed up with forced apps and useless functions that i cant turn off that makes the phone sluggish after 1-1.5years of usage. Of course they wanna make money, but why do it the "Apple way" (cpu slow down vs Sammy so much crap You need next gen to run it and damn You if You dont choose sammy keyboard ..then you will have to wait 15 seconds to enter a bloody password every morning...for a security reason i cant understand...suddenly thumb is less secure than hackable PASS 😂 thats an apple invention and they copied it...worst mistake EVER) @jimjam.nyc I dont have the galaxy watch extra button. I have samsung pay on the top button (long press) and sucky bixby on bottom one (watch typing is 1980s revival 😄 so i neede SOMETHING and haven't had the time to fiddle with the google assistant workaround). Well I guess bixby will have to make way for EUC world, rarely voice type anyway + i can uninstall bixby-sucker and save me some juice. Hmmm maybe bixby can open euc world by voice? My samsung gear actually works excellent as headset when riding and talking to GF...she can hardly hear wind noise even when rolling fast but can hear my nice... even with just one plug inserted for safety soni can hear traffic and ....birds lol
  13. On my Samsung active 1 (paired with sammy s9+ that is also paired with galaxy buds) , it works like this Power save mode OFF: Screen allways on, app allways on top. Watch last only a few HOURS before empty when riding, so cant use this. Power save mode ON: Watch batt last closer to normal (normal 2+ days) like a day. Acceptable when riding Most of the time when screen turns OFF it switches top app, EUC WORLD, to watch face in the background ALLMOST imediatelly (strangely at rare ocassions it stays on top for longer...like several minutes, seems to be if i have warning sounds or speech coming in my head phones from the phone app....is there some "keep awake" going to the watch at the same time?) Unless i flick my wrist ever 10-20seconds or so, next time i flick wrist or tap screen to see euc world data, its NOT ON TOP. I have to swipe left and open app (opens imediatelly on top when doing this, so its not closed, just put below watch face). Is there any way to "keep euc world" on top ALLWAYS on the watch as long as its open? I have no problem force closing it after riding, but it gets very annoying (could get dangerous) to fiddle with app opening every time i meed watch info....+ Horn gets useless as i passes the obstacle before i even get the app back on top. For sure the biggest caveat with the watch app right now. Everything else works nicely :-)
  14. Persisten LED mode (chosen pattern as selected at startup) does not work with gw tesla v1.2. No matter which led mode i chose it doesnt change at power of on
  15. How did it compare to a msx (84V) or a Nikola or a Tesla, KS16x or a z10? (The ones i tried, but feel free to compare agaisnt other) Just figured you have ridden one or all of them? So nice to have a comparison vs what us others have ridden to get a feeling if its worth jumping on the train allready 🙂
  16. I wouldn't say it obsolete other wheels. Its a 36Kg (or 35...ive read different specs...1 kg doesn't really matter) tank. Even if Kuji can jump and handle it, that doesn't mean its as agile as a much lighter msp when it comes to fast cornering, jumping a.s.o. especially not for the average rider (lile me 🙈). From vids i have seen it seems to demand quite a lot of lean to turn (a bit like the z10) probably due to the unsprung weight. And the z10 is about the slowest turning wheel i have ever ridden, but its also the highest quality wheel. I'm xing fingers they get into the game again with a slimmer tyre, more batt and power. For long hauls though, i would say its gonns be a hard nut to crack for gotway (monster)
  17. About the jerk, i wrote it further up.. at edited video image. So yes it's a possibility that the frame was not captured. As an addition, the wheel does not behave"normal" at steep lean angles. It wants to accelerate even if you don't lean it forward. I guess gyro is not accurate enough at those angles to be sure if it's also leaning forward.. Cheap components profit and buyers that prefer low price (and speed);over quality...the GW way :-) I own a gotway, but i don't think i will own another one unless they improve quality, cable quality and management aso If they did not hold speed records i would switch manufacturer based solely on their low build quality... Upside, it leaves a lot of room for DIY MODS
  18. Horizon is the only thing that is likely to be level, thats why i chose horizon and omitted the foreground banks. Also i added some extra angle when free sketching, loon carefully. Compare with image (tesla) above that is 40°
  19. As a reference, this is 40° where my modded tesla pedals hit the ground around 38-39° and gyro cuts right after 40°
  20. Stopped video at max angle...its not 45° vs horizon, but i guess a short skid that is.missed by the video frame would be enough to pull.it past 40°
  21. Other things to mention from the tests. When you are at theese steep angles, the wheel can suddenly decide to roll forward even if you dont tilt it forward,heck i even tries to tilt it backward but it still tried to roll forward so had to raise it to prevent a death spin in the kitchen :-) I guess the gyro in GW wheels is not accurate enough at angles beyond 35 to 40-ish degrees to decide forward/backward lean accurately, as this happened several times before it suddenly decided not to do it. I performed the exact same amouvre, but wheel behaved different :-) no micorwawes running or other odd electronics that might disturb the wheel electronics.
  22. I happened to test out the max lean angle on my GW Tesla. If you compare the max angle (40°) before it cutouts in a very slow increase of angle...and think of what kind of grip that would require on gravel in a fairly high speed...i do not think it was a gyro based cutout, unless the board has a much lower cutout angle OR was totally tilted inside the wheel (mine was fairly loose before i fastened it, but angle diff no more than 1-2 degrees by eye from"rattle in the slot where board slides in"). Check the vid at the end of my "pedal mod post" for a fairly accurate test of maximum lean angle on a GW Tesla v1.2 (with mainboard fastened to prevent rattle) .of
  23. Reason 1, constant scraping asphalt in turns (snagging) Reasons 2, constant snagging roots and rocks at offroad (falling) Reason 3, align gyro cutout angle with "pedal hits ground angle" (warning before, but not too early) 1 & 2. Tired of pedals snagging stuff throwing me off in high soeed cornering or in the woods was the main reason for this mod 3. after i saw Chooch's video where he cutout in a velodrome, i thought it looked far to horisontal to cause a gyro based cutout. So I tested out the angle on my GW Tesla v1.2. before this i had demonstrated the cutout angle for 2 fellow eucist and they both agreed it was far more than 45 degrees. I totally agreed, looked like a cutout around 50-55°.... BUT....math is math...and eyes are eyes. So lets test it. Before the video i tested this out several times with my calibrated galaxy s9+ clinometer (calibrated to a level of test equipment we use at work with pedigree accuracy...the iPhone was a few degrees off but the end result only differed around 2°...iPhone was not possible to get as accurate, but video on Samsung was a lot better so I still chose Apple as level and Samsung as video device) I am aware that the flex in the handle bar removes some accury, but when testing by holding handle +wheel) it was less than 1° difference where it cuts out. Also silver tape might seem bad, but i aligned the phone so that no buttons changed vertical angle from deviating from 0° and basically found the sweet spot where it JUST balanced around 0° and calibrated 0 point there. Tested other direction and cutout came around 1° later, probably board is not 100% level.. Or phone is not. All in all the meassurement error is well below 4° (most likely around 2°.. At least it was with my Android and and result only differed a few degrees after several tests) So, modification for permanent angled pedals on GW Tesla. Took some time to test out with metal glue as a start, then super tacky adhesive tape and then i realized i needed to go to the work shop and find the correct angle of the shims and a more permanent fastening solution (screws + metallic glue (loctite for metal) + loctite (blue)) Here is the result And this looks crazy...the angle... at least when you see pedal angle in video..im aware 😜 But I can only say what i experience and that is: - MUCH better control of the wheel (after raising kuji pads to fit new higher position of ankle to match steeper pedals) - Allmost Impossible to scrape pedals (except slow speed srapes, thats allmost allways possible unless wheel cutout first of course.. Which now is damn close) - And about cutout, pedals touch ground just a few degrees before cutout, so the moment i feel something pushing pedal (or hear metal scraping) i know i have to step back. A few degrees is A LOT when hovering around 40° degrees, its nothing you hit by "accident"...I hope 😁 Make up you own mind if this angle is possible to hit on a banked curved in gravel, with a bicycle tyre, in high speed. Personally i think it will be hard to hit that angle on ASPHALT even when tyre is Sticky(hot summer day)...well the amount of stickiness a bicycle can produce anyway :-) Youtube obviously made quality CRAP but basically pedals touch around 38-39° and gyro cutout is around 40-41°. Hope You can see the angle readout if you change rez to 1080p, ore upload it was ultra clear at least even after rezizing from 4K to 1080p
  24. Whats Your biggest worry? To me its for sure not being able to turn on the wheel after a crash (as power button seems integrated in LCD...unless its only to powee the LCD) especially given its a long range wheel. EUC world most likely needs an update by Seba, unless they used GW protocol (not totally unlikely given their origin), at least for full functionality. Plastic film - anal 😂, you mean that thin useless film that all China LCDs have...that I guess You saw in the picture (or did you see the wheel IRL?) That would not protect for a fly even unless they added a real protector. No, after market FTW but plastic is plastic, and plastic dents. Still same possibilty to have issues only less with just a protector. So a raised (seminsoft foam) edge around screen is what I would add. Same thing I added to my tesla to protect charge port that protrouds and that msx owners adds to front that allways hits tarmac first at a fall.
  25. If its glass it cracks easier. A flying stone would be enough or a twist in the shell that adds tension on an edge if not protected with LCD liner. If its plastic it scratches easier. If its Graphene...WOW, they would be first on electric vehicles and that would be kick ass :-) Either way, protection is for sure the first i would add. Screen protector + a raised edge. It for sure looks flush or even RAISED from the shell to me, not with an inset. Could be wrong but not from what i see with my eyes. Also look at the height of the rollbars vs height of lcd...no or very little margin /protection up top. And what i mean is that a LCD is a fairly sensitive piece of equipment, and the only piece that can be impacted with a direct hit in a crash (unless shell cracks, but then you are in deeper trouble) All other sensitive electrical equipment is kept inside the wheel protected. But again, if a stone pentrates the LCD, whst will happen. Will the wheel start with the ?touch?-button on the LCD broken? Will it cut out or fry something expensive to repair? To me, a tank should be a tank, inside out. I would be fine with 10 covered leds on top telling battery level or you could change mode to tell speed in % of max for example (a smart EUC should be able to calculate max speed based on rider weight/motor load vs battery level, but i dont think the AI is quite there on EUCs just yet, on the other hand it knows the 80% beep limit so if someone out their will in it im sure its possible and who kmows, Sherman might surprise us with exceptional smart functions. I for one hope so, but I would rather have most of those connected to an app (EUC WORLD FTW) and just mandatory stuff like battery on LEDs on the EUC. Luckily if not we have external apps like EUC world to add some features...albeit not a lot of AI, more self made settings, but loads of logging possible. But each to his own. Me... I'm the 100% tank guy. I just wanna roll, with minimal issues. If i want to know speed i connect euc world and a tizen watch or pebble rather than taking my eyes of the road looking between my legs in 70km/h Got a sherman, then you don't need this...or kinda anyway :-) THAT is a smart function i like even if a bit gimmicky as it signals when turning has started. Hook it up with EUC World and add functions to a watch (left right edge tap) to be able to indicate BEFORE turning and we are really in business (a flasher when turning has started is kinda usless to be frank, but its a start and i have only seen that on xiaomis ninebot mini plus, i got the mini plus collecting dust lol) https://road.cc/content/tech-news/lumos-add-indicator-helmet-range-new-ultra-274621?amp
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