fbhb Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 (edited) 48 minutes ago, Jack King Song said: You guys ask, I deliver. @Jack King Song on the subject of "delivering", do you have any further details to share with the S18 community regarding upgrading to correctly machined bearing spacers for All of the pivot points of the suspension? The last comment I saw from you stated that the improvements were being worked and were under testing, but can you at least outline what exactly the improvements are? As you can read here for yourself and elsewhere, many New owners are very concerned (some are even getting quite upset!) about the fact that "hardened spring steel locking washers" were incorrectly used during assembly leading to the destruction of some of their bearings! A huge concern is that some owners do not have the technical experience/knowledge to rectify this themselves so some guidance from King Song on whether this will be dealt with via their distributors/sellers or is it possible a D.I.Y. kit with instructions could be made available for instance? Edited August 24, 2020 by fbhb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOSFET Electric Dreams Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 1 minute ago, fbhb said: @Jack King Song on the subject of "delivering", do you have any further details to share with the S18 community regarding upgrading to correctly machined bearing spacers for All of the pivot points of the suspension? The last comment I saw from you stated that the improvements were being worked and were under testing, but can you at least outline what exactly the improvements are? As you can read here for yourself and elsewhere, many New owners are very concerned (some are even getting quite upset!) about the fact that "hardened spring steel locking washers" were incorrectly used during assembly leading to the destruction of some of their bearings! A huge concern is that some owners do not have the technical experience/knowledge to rectify this themselves so some guidance from King Song on whether this will be dealt with via their distributors/sellers or is it possible a D.I.Y. kit could be made available for instance? I don't, but when I do i'll be sure to update here immediately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fbhb Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 2 minutes ago, Jack King Song said: I don't, but when I do i'll be sure to update here immediately. Thanks for the quick reply, a lot of us are desperately waiting to hear how King Song intends to address this. Those that already have an S18 especially and for those in a similar position to myself that are still waiting for pre orders! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriull Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 5 hours ago, Feynman said: Replacing all the bearings with high quality ones of same size Hi! I hope i got this right - it seems you are the (or one of?) the driving force(s) with the bearings/suspension rework? Imhi this should deserve it's own topic? Easier to find and read for everyone as it is "hidden" now somewhere within 100 pages of all KS18 discussions... As i get this it seems "to late" to split the corresponding posts out of this topic Maybe you want to start a dedicated topic regarding your bearing reworks with one of your next reports as this seems important and not too easily and immedeately solved? 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feynman Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 (edited) 7 hours ago, eve said: Whew. Seems like the combination of paint on bearings a overtightenet screws pretty much destroyed those bearings. Wouldnt something like this be better or nah? I did see they make flanged bearings in the right size. Not sure if the 1mm flange thickness (x2) would be too much distance between connection points, and not sure the flange would buy us, but they do look cool. Also, there was no paint on my bearings. 4 hours ago, Chriull said: Maybe you want to start a dedicated topic regarding your bearing reworks with one of your next reports as this seems important and not too easily and immedeately solved? Will do Edited August 24, 2020 by Feynman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartL Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 Flanged bearings are an advantage in some contexts but I don't think they'd help the problem where two parts are being clamped together by the bearings. Ideally you want a fixed spacer between the inner races and potentially a thrust bearing between the outer races. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B08AH Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-iB- Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 For any of you guys that have disassembled your wheels, Are the back lights directly wired to the motherboard, or can they easily be reattached or removed? I'm not too clear if that's the case from the tear down video. My rear lights still do not work... but I'm not excited to take apart my wheel just to see if they are / are not attached directly to the motherboard. I seem to be the only lucky one (that I can see so far) that has this issue with the rear lights. Thanks for any input! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eve Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 (edited) @Jack King Song Btw the motor cable needs to be covered at the bottom part. Some reviewers mentioned that the rubber/coil gets destroyed after awhile if you do a lot of jumping. @-iB- They are directly on the edge of the motherboard. Edited August 24, 2020 by eve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feynman Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 7 minutes ago, -iB- said: but I'm not excited to take apart my wheel just to see if they are / are not attached directly to the motherboard. I seem to be the only lucky one (that I can see so far) that has this issue with the rear lights. @eve is correct, sorry 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-iB- Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 13 minutes ago, eve said: @Jack King Song Btw the motor cable needs to be covered at the bottom part. Some reviewers mentioned that the rubber/coil gets destroyed after awhile if you do a lot of jumping. @-iB- They are directly on the edge of the motherboard. Yikes! What a bummer. 6 minutes ago, Feynman said: @eve is correct, sorry Awesome, thanks for the image, that's exactly what I need to see. Maybe I'll send it in for repairs when the winter hits and I can't ride anymore anyway I can't pry myself away from this wheel! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UniVehje Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 1 hour ago, B08AH said: Is this before or after fixing the suspension? Where does that sound come from? 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B08AH Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 16 minutes ago, UniVehje said: Is this before or after fixing the suspension? It is half-fixed. not sure which sound you meant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartL Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 17 minutes ago, B08AH said: not sure which sound you meant Obviously I can't speak for @UniVehje but I'm curious about the rattle at each step. It sounds like something is loose, perhaps one of the panels. The whole suspension system doesn't look like it's doing that much, though obviously I say that as an idle viewer rather than the rider. I'd be curious to know if you've experimented with different shock pressures and/or fixing the known suspension issues (see thread below). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FinRider Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 17 minutes ago, StuartL said: Obviously I can't speak for @UniVehje but I'm curious about the rattle at each step. It sounds like something is loose, perhaps one of the panels. The whole suspension system doesn't look like it's doing that much, though obviously I say that as an idle viewer rather than the rider. I'd be curious to know if you've experimented with different shock pressures and/or fixing the known suspension issues (see thread below). The rattle is normal as it comes from the cable/shell moving with the suspension. and look closer, the suspension is working on each step. You can actually do this at speed with stiff legs without being jolted off the wheel. My suspension is starting to work like it should as well, just need to fix a couple of outstanding issues like my crooked inner fender etc. I agree with the sentiment that it is hard to pull yourself away from the wheel. One thing that has not been mentioned enough in my opinion is how nimble this wheel is. I took my ks16 for a spin this weekend and the difference between non-suspension vs suspension is huge! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Wilson Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 29 minutes ago, FinRider said: One thing that has not been mentioned enough in my opinion is how nimble this wheel is. I took my ks16 for a spin this weekend and the difference between non-suspension vs suspension is huge! Does the suspension help with the nimbleness? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FinRider Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 1 hour ago, Mark Wilson said: Does the suspension help with the nimbleness? No, I would not attribute that to the suspension. The nimbleness is my subjective opinion and i am a far cry from an experienced rider.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eve Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 Imo its: 1. Padding. 2. This is the thinnest 3inch tyre. Its like 2.6 i think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redfoxdude Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 (edited) It's a pretty nimble wheel, for sure. I think it's partly due to the thinness of the shell. I remember feeling like the 16X was way more nimble than the Nikola, despite the identical tire size. I think it was because of the geometry between the legs - contact points, width, etc. I can't really tilt the Nikola between my legs without committing my whole body into leaning. Maybe the pedal height contributes, too. Also, the tire is ~2.74 inches wide, for what it's worth. (EDIT: I should say, my tire measures that at the widest point, ymmv Edited August 25, 2020 by redfoxdude 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moreno Gianola Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 Isn t better to put a piece of metal or a piece of screw in the end of the femal part of the screw så you can tied it hard but retain the extra space? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eve Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 40 minutes ago, redfoxdude said: Maybe the pedal height contributes, too. Also, the tire is ~2.74 inches wide, for what it's worth. You measured that on your wheel or where did you got that info? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redfoxdude Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 6 minutes ago, eve said: You measured that on your wheel or where did you got that info? Measured my S18's tire with calipers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eve Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 (edited) Dont remember where i read the spec sheet but it sayed 2.6. Well all tyre go wider when theyre on the rim and inflated. Shermans street tyre is i think 2.75 on spec sheet too but its wider when on the wheel. Edited August 24, 2020 by eve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feynman Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 3 minutes ago, eve said: Dont remember where i read the spec sheet but it sayed 2.6. Well all tyre go wider when theyre on the rim and inflated. Shermans street tyre is i think 2.75 on spec sheet too. 2.570" by my calipers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redfoxdude Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 9 minutes ago, eve said: Dont remember where i read the spec sheet but it sayed 2.6. Well all tyre go wider when theyre on the rim and inflated. Shermans street tyre is i think 2.75 on spec sheet too but its wider when on the wheel. 6 minutes ago, Feynman said: 2.570" by my calipers Interesting. I measure 2.74 inches if I measure the widest point of the treads, and if I measure with the caliper set into the gap between the treads, I get 2.64 inches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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