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Everything posted by Chriull

  1. Hope you recover fine! The lower the battery, the more careful one has to drive. Especially with such "weak" wheels You can set tiltback to some lower speed temporarly and try it out. But I'd see no reason why tiltback could stop working! Depending on acceleration (burden) it's always possible to get an overlean before tiltback kicks in. Afair, the original E+ still had a BMS which could cut off during driving. ?From overcurrent and/or cell undervoltage?. So it could be that your battery already shows some wear/is too imbalanced? What's the reported battery voltage after a full charge and some 15 minute rest?
  2. Thanks for clarification! Introducing a cut off speed as UStride states in the video is quite ähhh strange - that's only true for exactly one burden and one battery voltage... And for my current consumption/safety margin considerations absolutely irrelevant. The 98 km/h lift cut off speed at full battery voltage woukd have been the value characterizing the wheel (although one could never ride at this speed!). Together with the lift cut off speed of the high torque version one could compare them (a bit, theoretically...)
  3. Yes! Afair @EUC Extreme had a special firmware version from GW not cutting of like "normal wheels" at higher "side lean angles"
  4. That's about 3.08V per cell. As KS does. Afair they were down to 3.0V per cell once and now at 3.15V. or with different wheels at different limits? Cells perform worse at lower voltages, but by 10/11p configuration burden per cell stays much lower. So yes, that's a great argument for lowering the limit. Don't know why GW stayed with 3.3V. they had always bigger (stronger, more cells in parallel) batteries as KS. By now with the 21700 cells it's imho good that they stayed at 3.3V per cell. KS with their "low parallel" configurations should imho reconsider their lower limit. 21700 have less internal resistance, but the used LG (does KS use them too?) don't have a great rated continous current... As stated at batteryuniversity.com the higher the number of cells in series (100.8V are 24s!) the easier they tend to get out of balance. And out of balance packs under burden with low voltages lead to individual cells beeing pushed to dangerously low voltages. Balancing of actual BMS is not really great - so a cell "pushed down" will not be charged fully - the next time under burden at a low voltage limit it gets pushed down even further. Until very soon the pack is dead...:( So maybe just GW is a bit more conservative, KS a bit more risky? Maybe because GW use 24s (100.8V) config and KS stayed with 20s and that "evens out"? Maybe the 24s10/11p config of the veteran is still conservative? ... so we'll see - much written, not too much said...
  5. These numbers, if they are somehow the result of a comparable testing procedure, should just specify the continous power/"heat dissipation" possibilities. This number just has to be in about the "right range" and as you wrote one does not need to care about. The current capabilities of the motor wires/connectors and mosfets should still be (?by far?) the bottleneck. If one looks at the ncr18650ga (?hope i got the right cell...?) at http://www.dampfakkus.de/akkutest.php?id=609 it delivers 3020mAh at 2A 2900 mAh at 3A 2700 mAh at 5A ~2000mAh at 10A from 4.2V downto 3V. Unfortionately the discharge test for the lg 21700 is not on this side by now... But it's officially a 3500mAh cell - that's as described in the datasheet only achievable at 0.7A(0.2C) discharge current from 4.2V downto 2.5V.... Ps.: The datasheet (https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.orbtronic.com/content/Datasheet-specs-Sanyo-Panasonic-NCR18650GA-3500mah.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiQhtuqubjqAhUkVBUIHcuSBuQQFjAAegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw03vxLRRiQBZodvELywP62x) gives better specs for such discharge tests...
  6. I wouldn't give too much on the watts printed on the motor. Imho the big range advantage of the veteran lies, besides his huge battery capacity, in the the masses of paralleled cells! So each cell (strand) has to deliver just "small" currents! And the less current burden is on a liion cell, the more "capacity it can deliver". The msps just have 4 217000 in parallel, the veteran ?10/11? 18650! For 2000W motor input the 4p 21700 almost reach their max continous current rating, while the 10/11p 18650 "hardly notice anything"
  7. Could be the DC/DC converter for the ?12V? rail died and so no more supply for the lights/leds is available. Or some connectors got loose/wires got pinched off? As it seems in this picture of the tesla v2 board https://de.aliexpress.com/i/4000047441758.html it seems to have just one dc/dc converter doing all needed voltages? But there in the last picture is described were the led and headlight connector is ... So one could measure if there is the right voltage?! And if it arrives to the frontlight and leds...
  8. The 41 mph and 44 mph are the lift cut off speeds at full battery voltage? That'll mean a quite small difference... 7% less in top (lift cut off) speed (at full battery voltage) would mean just 7% more torque at lower speeds. The 2500W label on the motor should/could mean a bit more sturdy build compared to the 2000W motor. And maybe bigger/stronger magnets? ?Increasing a bit more the torque capability? So one of the big advantages of the high torque low speed version should be lower current consumption for the same torque at the same speed! And other way round the higher safety margin/headroom at the same speed for the high speed version for higher speed riding. Would be interesting how the limits of this two wheels really are, and were they "meet" exactly... To know which of these two "advantages" of these wheel are really noticable - and for whom this could be of interest in which range. Anyhow if driving both wheels similar (same speed, same acceleration) the 2500W version should eat less battery! With the 2500W version one should have the possibility to eat up battery racing up mountains, with the 2000W version the same by higher speed driving. Would be great to have someone like @Marty Backe to do his overheat hill and his range test with both wheels! Two very different burden situations with the same driver and driving behaviour...
  9. Wow. 30% is the highest deviation i've heard reported from a KS wheel... No. Battery charge % is just taken from battery voltage. To get an accurate reading one have to let the battery rest (some 10-15min, up to an hour according to batteryuniversity.com). So while charging too much charge % are shown, while riding too low charge %. Charging of LiIon Batteries happens in two stages: First stage: batteries are charged with constant current up to their max voltage of 4.2V per cell in series. (~67.2V in total for your wheel?). At the end of this stage the battery is charged to about 85%, but already shows full voltage (while plugged to the charger - if one unplugs at this point and let it rest voltage will quite immedeately drop to somewhere about 4.05V per cell...) Second stage: constant voltage/saturation stage. While this stage the charger and battery stay constantly at the maximum voltage (4.2V per serial cell) and charging current decreases. Once charging current decreased below some threshold the charger shows by the green led that charging is finished. As reported here many charger have this threshold too high and one can charge for another 0.5-1 hour. This brings the battery from the ~85% to full 100% charge - one see's that by the reported voltage after letting them rest for some time. See https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/18317-battery-faq/ for (much) more details. Sorry to hear that - seems you had really bad luck according to the reports here...:( Who told you this wheel can go 30km/h? The wheel knows nothing of your second battery and there is no setting to tell the wheel. I found https://ecodrift.ru/2017/12/28/obzor-monokolesa-ks-14m-interesnaya-novinka-v-byudzhetnom-sektore/ - there they write that one has to "force update" the wheel ?with the soft tuner/engineer app? to a KS14D. On ones own responsability without guarantee. ... and this article is from 2017 - forcing a "wrong" firmware on a board not designed for it can fully destroy it - so you should double and triple check before trying such a step!
  10. As you see in your first screenshot the maximum current was 6.3 A. (One could discuss if with negative minimum and maximum should be exchanged at the stats...:) ) Your charger and your wheel do not really agree on the current value - one or both are a bit off. And the current was between 5.6 and 6.3A - so every time the current exceeded 6A as measured by the wheel it beeped. No. It supplies, especially in the constant current phase just the voltage needed to drive the set current. This should be about the point when charging switches from constant current to constant voltage. You have logged this trials? Then you'd see the reported temprtature. Temperature is not measured at the BMS/battery but at the mainboard? So temperature rise could be delayed and by this leading to strange fan behaviour? Maybe the fan is not only triggered by temperature but also by charging current? Don't worry. Make logs of full charging process with both chargers. Starting from some lowish % - so one has enough time in the first stage. Let the wheel "coolof" to room temperature before charginh. And as this is a quite new possibility - keep this logs somewhere safe on your computer! They'll be handy to compare your batteries sometimes later! Changing the charger every five minutes brings no result, but just leads to confusion while looking in detail at everything Single cell overvoltage protection (BMS charge input cut off) Short circuit/overcurrent protection (for the BMS output! - not at the charge side) The overall battery voltage is just monitored from the motherboard (overvoltage alarm going downhill) - don't know if this is active while charging? Could not remember of any report - but could easily be that there are (as good as) no chargers with such too high voltage. And now, starting with the KS18(X)L charging current is measured, too - but again by firmware on the motherboard and not by the BMS. Afaik there are just this warning beeps at 6A (depending on wheel and firmware..) but no other action.
  11. Chriull

    EUC noob needs halp!

    As written you need a Or just any 15s LiIion charger - there are many (much cheaper) available. You'd "just" need the right plug in the right way attached to it. That is the nominal voltage (15*3.7V=55.5V). Maximum voltage for charger and battery is 15*4.2V=63V.
  12. I strongly support ! So no - they have the old, stable and well known 18650 cells! I'd assume that you know about the max speed (safety margin) difference of the 100.8V to the 84V version, which is exactly 100.8/84=120%. But by the lower speed (high speeds eat battery) and the higher battery capacity it has much higher range!
  13. I was already a bit wondering, as 180 cells would lead to ~3.1Ah per cell - a bit a strange number. So ewheels seem to have a typing error on their site: "2100Wh has 180 cells (19.8lb battery/60.4lb Wheel)"
  14. According to https://www.ewheels.com/product/new-gotway-nikola-1600wh-battery-2000w-motor-3-wide-tire/ the 84V/2100Wh model has 180 cells. This gives ~3.1Ah per cell, so this should be 18650. But this website seems to be not actual - as reported in ewheels recalled the 100v 21700 nikolas (?the battery packs) the replace the panasonic with LG cells, which was reported there to be the culprit according to GW? Best to ask ewheels directly - they should know all the details!
  15. Yes, that's what i do! My reply was to @Felix and your suggestion to to get some "prewarning". But this is unfortionately not possible (acceptable for me), as this would lead to continous beeping.
  16. Then the wheel would beep all the time while driving above 32 km/h... I've set one alarm and tiltback at 35 km/h - luckily the tiltback is already noticable _before_ the 35 km/h beeps start! So i have a nice cruising speed without disturbing beeps! Just ones speed throttling is active or a "real" warning comes i'd hear something beeping! Don't know exactly about inmotion, but normally speed alarms can be set. As for KS wheels one can set 3 speed alarms - the first two can be disabled. They have different beeping patterns - and unfortionately they don't just beep if one crosses the threshold but beep continously once one drives faster as these set speeds
  17. Yes, would be a step. But this would limit maximum cruising speed. As with my ks16s i like to cruise (with enough battery charge) just below the max setable 35 km/h. Just below tiltback setting in - it's nicely felt. If i'd set such a window i'd ve riding with some slight tiltback at 35 km/h continously But i'm very used to my wheel, and so i have no real concerns about this. As i decided (for myself) that wheels like mine are to weak to have higher accelerations at these speeds i don't to this and it won't happen to me having a "serious" tiltback at 35 km/h. I can't really remember when or if i really had a full tiltback with my KS16S - couod be that i always stopped prudently stronger accelerations before and just approached the tiltback very calmly. The one, long time ago experience beeing surprised by a tiltback with a ninebot e+ and the fight to regain balance and beeing able to brake again was enough for me... Imho better to confuse some riders a bit as (potentually) endanger them! I'd personally prefer to explain (new) members/riders here why tiltback starts strangly at different speeds than explaining them why the wheel tried to kill them (as it often happened:( )!
  18. Afaik such modifications/updates can "happen" with each new batch. And resellers websites easily can have some delay... But so, @TimS - 67V/420Wh and the 84V versions can be easily distinguised by max speed or just looking at the charger. Once you know you have an 84V version, by comparing range/charge time with other owners or just analyzing these values should give enough "hints". 325Wh vs 512Wh should differ enough?
  19. Surely you can't be serious? I'm dead serious with this statement. Exactly! It shall beside warn, intuitively help the rider to stop acceleration/decelerate and not endanger the rider by bringing him out of balance! As it seems by now tiltback performs within some small speed range. To wildly guess some numbers (as this is just to get the picture, real accurate numbers won't change the system), if set to 35 km/h it goes from 0° pedal tilt at 35 km/h to 10° pedal tilt at 37 km/h. If one accelerates slowly and comfortable within 5 seconds from 27 km/h to 37 km/h the tiltback kicks in within one second - a great help for the rider! In such a case one gets the starting tiltback and will stop easily the acceleration and never reach the 37 km/h, but "level off" around the 35 km/h and savely drive on - mission accomplished! If one accelerates twice as hard tiltback kicks fully in within 0.5 seconds - a more severe situation, but should still be very ok to handle. For four times and higher accelerations the tilt back kicks in in 0.25 seconds and less - developing to catapulting the rider off the wheel or at least dangerously destabilizing him! Then the tiltback is no help anymore but a dangerously, faulty implemented measure! So how to easily solve this problem - one chooses a time duration instead of a speed intervall to let the tiltback kick in! Staying with the above example one wants full tiltback at 37 km/h and extending from 0° to 10° within a second. For the "first acceleration" (from 27 to 37km/h within 5 seconds) nothing will change - tiltback starts at 35 km/h and fully extends within a second at 37 km/h. With the twice as hard acceleration tiltback will already start at 33 km/h and fully extend within _one_ second again until 37 km/h reached. With a four times as hard acceleration tiltback already starts at 29 km/h and again extent within _one_ second to full tiltback at 37 km/h. For higher accelerations tiltback will start quite immedeately and take the time available until 37 km/h. (If one stops this "higher" accelerations, by this system tiltback will of course stop again and one can comfortably drive up to this 37 km/h!) No more endagering of the rider by imbalancing/surprising/catapulting him! The wheel knows the speed values about 100 times a second - getting the accurate acceleration from this is trivial. Linear extrapolation is early high school math and no rocket science! Now to the next "problem" - speed is just one variable to determine the safety margin until overlean. Looking at speed alone it is a "bad" indicator. With low burdens (acceleration,incline,etc) at a speed limit the safety margin is still "huge", with higher burdens it gets smaller and smaller! So each wheel with a fixed speed tiltback can be overleaned below this speed limit if one "just" accelerstes hard enough! The good news is, that KS has found/introduced a new value in their firmware (inverter load, motor output %) that accurately gives a percentage of how near one is at the overlean limit! They afaik implemented the "88% alarm' (4 fast consecutive beeps) by this. So they could implement tiltback to extent to full pedal tilt reached at such 88% (12% margin left till overlean) within one second. Or whichever values are suitable/usable - or just to be choosen by the rider! Such a tiltback implementation would be a huge leap forward in warning quality/rider safety! Sorry, but to this just a big no, as explained above. Tiltback is badly and unnecessarily dangerous implememted by now! Disclaimer: My knowledge about tiltback implementations could be a bit outdated, as i do not try and analyze tiltback with every new firmware version and just know other manufacturers implementations by reports here. So i trust that any bigger changes and improvements should come by this forum. At least there seems to be no announcents from manufacturer side, that anything changed/is about to change
  20. Three fast beeps could be overpower (and overvoltage while braking) warning? Did not find a list of KS warning beeps. Four fast beeps are the "88% alarm" - showing just 12% "left until overlean". https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/17513-18xl-really-fast-beeps/ If you log your ride with euc world you'll have a value "inverter load", showing this percentage (soon it will be called "safety margin" and show 100%-imverter load, so 12% margin instead of 88% load...) Imho hard to differentiate it there a three or four beeps... If you fell forward, it sounds like an overlean. Good that it seems you weren't hurt at this incident, as you didn't mention anything?! This would speak for "overpower" warning - at slow speeds (from standstill) currents can get just huge! Melting motor wires, frying mosfets, etc... So KS (and most presumably every other wheel ?but GW?...) has some power (current) limitation for low speeds. Could be you battery was a bit lower than normal? Or you had a slight incline this time? Or you just had a bit a better start than normal? Or it's really FW 2.02 - harder pedals should generally need higher currents. But not too much is known what was changed between 2.02 and 2.00 except that the pedals feel a bit harder... Restrict the "as i like to do" starts to higher battery levels, really flat roads or declines. Log them and and look what's the limit you're reaching. Or you've just outgrown this wheel (one get's used too acceleration and need more and more?) and you should move on to a MS?S/P/X? or veteran?
  21. Google or you give some more details?
  22. Yes. But it could be much much better easily. As KS has already a much better safety threshold as speed, namely inverter load/motor output it could base tultback on this. And there is no readon why tiltback has to kick in harder once one accelerates stronger details in https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/7855-anatomy-of-an-overlean/?do=findComment&comment=107721 KS unveild (by NDA) all their protocoll details with every "special" GW has more or less "just basic functionality" which is stable and supported. For Inmotion wheels some were reverse engeneered and not "everything" is supported. V8F, as i learned shortly, is not supported at all. But yes, for most inmotion wheels "basic" functionality works.
  23. The link does not work (easily?)- it needs one to ask for access Just to be sure - you already tried without password, if this is possible. Btw: this is a forum for electronic unicycles - you have better chances to get help asking in an e-bike forum!
  24. To which voltage? To which voltage? No red light? It stays green or no light at all? Something bad with the wires? The BMS? Anything looks different, anything "abnormal" to be seen? Could be many dead cells, or some "physical" problems with the BMS, wires, cells, nickel strips or whatever of this pack...
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