Jump to content

WaveCut

Recommended Posts

22 hours ago, mrelwood said:

I also applaud the gesture. I just don’t think I’ve read about a single EUC crash in the last 5 years caused by the hall sensors failing.

I have two motors that manufacturers replaced under warranty (last year) due to Hall Effect sensors failing...

  • Like 1
  • Upvote 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/2/2022 at 9:28 AM, The Fat Unicyclist said:

I have two motors that manufacturers replaced under warranty (last year) due to Hall Effect sensors failing...

So they are there, I just hadn’t heard of them. Did either of those two result in a crash?

Btw, how many mainboards have you or the manufacturer replaced under warranty last year? ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Gents,

 

Bought a inmotion v11 In dec2020 but couldn t ride it due to health conditions.

Want to start riding it and i was browsing through the internet avout the power pads and ended up at the bearings issue. Now, i live in uk where the weather is what it is. what s the best strategy to make the most out of it. I ve seen some 3d printed parts for the bearings. Thought might ask for a extension of the warranty, the wheel has less than a mile on the odometer, a few times around the living room.

any advices?

 

kind regards,

Andrei

  • Like 2
  • Upvote 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Adv.Andrei said:

Thought might ask for a extension of the warranty

Worst case they say "no", so why not ask? It's all upside.

I'd definitely add the seals, they do seem to help. And I would look carefully at the 'grease' that's in the bearings. I am probably misremembering which wheel shipped with an unfortunate choice of bearing 'grease', but while you're adding the seals it wouldn't hurt to check.

BTW, glad your situation has improved to where you can start riding the thing!

Edited by Tawpie
  • Upvote 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Adv.Andrei said:

Hi Gents,

 

Bought a inmotion v11 In dec2020 but couldn t ride it due to health conditions.

Want to start riding it and i was browsing through the internet avout the power pads and ended up at the bearings issue. Now, i live in uk where the weather is what it is. what s the best strategy to make the most out of it. I ve seen some 3d printed parts for the bearings. Thought might ask for a extension of the warranty, the wheel has less than a mile on the odometer, a few times around the living room.

any advices?

 

kind regards,

Andrei

Thick grease around bearings will do the trick. (Even when you use those 3d printed parts.. Adding thick layer of grease "All around" will help.

And when you add that grease, I MEAN IT.. add plenty. So that groove disappears in grease.

 

Edited by Funky
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Funky said:

Thick grease around bearings will do the trick. (Even when you use those 3d printed parts.. Adding thick layer of grease "All around" will help.

And when you add that grease, I MEAN IT.. add plenty. So that groove disappears in grease.

 

Grease works. Although, it’s best to use grease as thin as reasonably possible under the bearing cover, since there is some friction going on.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, UniVehje said:

No. I never had any pads. You can very well ride it without them and in the beginning even recommended. They help with braking and riding uphill. You can install them later when you know what you need. They help with more aggressive style which is not what you should go for as a newbie. 

Thank you!! Maybe,I'll think about it after it's really integrated into my life

  • Like 1
  • Upvote 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, YelJuw said:

I see a lot of people buying power pads for v11, is this a must? I'm a euc newbie:innocent1:

For a newbie, I recommend getting good at your wheel before getting power pads.  You'll be able to try out different foot placement and body movement without restriction (test out what you like).  I rode 300 miles before I got power pad (Clark Pads).  I like them because they help give you better grip and stability.  Good for jumping and high speed riding.  

Try getting "fly pads" first. They are foot peg that are helpful for added leverage.  I used the thingiverse file to print my own (PLA or PETG, 90%-100% infill) and they worked great. (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4655658/files). 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
  • Upvote 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Roughly 84V. Keep in mind that the wheel's internal voltmeter has its own inaccuracies, so 83.8 or higher is just fine. 

And absolutely, you should leave it charging for an hour or two after the light on the charger goes green. This balances the individual cells in the battery pack and extends its life. Don't pay too much attention to the % meter, it's typically optimistic. The voltage is what matters...

  • Like 1
  • Upvote 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/4/2022 at 10:45 PM, Tawpie said:

And absolutely, you should leave it charging for an hour or two after the light on the charger goes green. This balances the individual cells in the battery pack and extends its life.

Doesn't this happen whether it's plugged into a charger or not.  Green light is not charging anyway, it's charged and charger not charging.  (Unless the V11 is radically different than gotway/kingsong.)

Edited by xorbe
  • Confused 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

29 minutes ago, xorbe said:

Doesn't this happen whether it's plugged into a charger or not.

"sort of". As I understand the tribal lore, the BMS will bleed charge off of cells that are above 4.2V and continue to charge cells that aren't yet all the way to 4.2V. But in order for the slower-to-charge cells to 'catch up' you have to have the charger connected. Hence the advice to leave the wheel connected to the charger for an hour or two after the green light.

Incidentally, the green light is optimistic and tends to go on 'early' anyway. Shorter time to green (or 100% indicated) is better, right?

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just purchased a used V11 and it's missing a top saddle screw.  What size do I need to buy? 

Thanks in advance!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, Richardo said:

Got a pic of the screw you're missing?

Thanks for your help!

JZKSrq7.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Upvote 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Paradox I won't be immediately helpful here, those partially threaded screws are sort of custom and I don't know how to identify it. I did ask my retailer if it's possible to order replacements or if they knew how to describe it in a search, though.

  • Like 1
  • Upvote 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

They're called "shoulder screws" or "shoulder bolts" and come in standard sizes. You'll need to measure the length and diameter of the shoulder, the length of the thread (or overall length) and the thread diameter and pitch. Eyeballing it, it looks like an M3 thread.

Edited by Tawpie
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...