The Fat Unicyclist

The weekend before Easter we shot through to Napier (New Zealand) for lunch and a ride with a couple of locals. In case a few of you haven't been to Napier, here is what you missed out on...

Assuming that you are undamaged as well... Thank you for the thorough testing and awesome feedback! Our intention was to provide a solution that absorbed that type of impact, while staying in place - that appears to be working, making you a happy customer. But do feel free to hold back a bit and just ride too...

That's odd... There is nothing in the rear wheel - the motor is in the front. Could it be a squeak of some sort from the rear suspension?

The Mten3 is a fun wheel for playing around on, but for last-mile commuting I think the small diameter of the wheel will make it quite uncomfortable - rougher surfaces and crappy curb transitions will make for a less enjoyable ride. For your weight you could get away with a 14" wheel. But being 194 cm you might be more comfortable on a 16" - I am ~190 cm and I really don't feel relaxed on anything smaller than a 16". But I am also slightly heavier than you too. Another thing to consider is how often you need to carry or trolley your wheel (through stations, buildings, et cetera). Smaller wheels have shorter trolley handles - I can "just" walk a KS-16S with a slight bend, but the 14" wheels require me to do a quite ridiculous stooping manoeuvre - Not an issue if you can ride end-to-end or are prepared to carry the wheel. So consider how your travel will play out. Based on the limited information (but particularly considering your stature) I would suggest that it might be worth you having a look at an Inmostion V10 or King Song 16S (680 Wh should be fine)...

Thumbs are so overrated... I mean who actually uses them anyway?

Sure thing... Good Luck!!! Here are my "top of mind" comments; The 14D uses machine screws (into brass collars), so it should be easy to manage the disassembly and reassembly. The #2 Phillips is the key screwdriver - you don't NEED a #3 - but if you are just using a #2 then be very careful not to damage the 5 larger screws holding the inner cases to each pedal. When removing the side LED covers, you can use a flat screwdriver or blade (if you don't have plastic tools), just be careful not to scratch up the plastic. And start at the top, not the bottom (despite the fact there are wider slots at the bottom). Remember to be careful not to damage the motor wires when you are removing and replacing the motor. Make sure you put the motor / wheel back in facing the same way. And while you are going through this, if you have any questions feel free to ask - you can post here on the forum (though I don't get to check it every day). If you need a quicker response you can email me at tatas.helpline@roll.nz (yes, I am serious - it is a real email address) which should get my attention much quicker between the hours of 12:00 (pm) and 03:00 (am) PDT. You most likely won't need assistance though, so do let us know how you get on!

While I completely agree with all of the comments above... If your choice was getting on an EUC or getting into a car, I think the EUC might be the better option. Having said that, getting into a taxi / Uber is an even better option!!!

Are you able to give us an indication of your height and weight? That will help with suggestions...

In favour of something else?

Hi @tata and welcome aboard! Based on your description, I think that you definitely have a flat tyre. Possibly the result of riding with not enough air pressure in the tube, which increases the chance of flats when riding over bumps, curbs, et cetera. It depends on your weight, but in general for a 14D I would expect that your tyre pressure should be 35 psi or higher. It may not have come (out of the box) with that much pressure in it, but that is what you should look to start with. With regards to the tyre tools / levers / irons... Yes, it is recommended that you use something like this. Something that will (ideally) not damage the new inner tube when fitting it. You will also need a #2 Phillips screwdriver and (if you want to make your life easier by removing the pedals) a 5mm hex key. A #3 Phillips screwdriver would also come in handy, if you really want to do this properly. The instructions that you have in your link to the eWheels page are good. Though if this is your first time, I would suggest you allow a good 1½ - 2 hours to go through it. I also recommend that you remove both side covers. It is a little more work, but it will make it easier to work when you are removing the wheel from and reinserting it into the case. I have a video showing (almost) exactly what you need to do on my YouTube channel, in two parts - the first being the disassembly and the second the tube change. The video shows a KS-14S, but this is exactly the same as a KS-14D (just with larger batteries and a stretched case to accommodate them). Have a look at them and they should give you a good idea of what needs to be done - and feel free to ask if you have any questions (either here, on my YouTube channel, or by PM). And do also let me know how you get on...

Remember that you will also be pinged by customs for duties and GST before they release it...

The theory would be that the latest firmware version should be the best... And as I am not aware that any recent updates (which may need a little more work) have been released then you should be ready to roll!

I thought the handlebar was there to reduce the damage to your face (when you faceplant) by smashing your knuckles into the ground , absorbing and thereby reducing the subsequent forces that are applied to your face!

Why thank you sir! And since @tenofnine is making this a thing... I thought a horseback version might look cool too! Sorry, but I couldn't find a more manly looking horse photo... But pink unicorns are cool too... Aren't they?

My guess is that if when it cuts out, the impact will be knees, knuckles and nose. In that order! It is like an electric unicycle that you can't "run off" when the need arises.