Flying W Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 @jmsjms my dad started when he was 69yrs old. He didn't want to, but I knew he would love it. We went to a soccer field everyday for 2 weeks, and he fell off a lot. On his second day he still couldn't go more than 60 off balance feet before falling off. He wanted to quit. Now he rides every where with me, even on the mountain bike trails. I think the fact that you can ride it at all after 2 days is reason alone to give yourself a pat on the back It's like learning and instrument. Phase one... frustration Phase 2, rapid improvement Phase 3, proficiency and slower improvement. One can stay in phase 3 for ever and be happy. In this phase you can ride to work, go on group rides, get groceries etc Phase 4 would be for those that actively practice skills that are less useful but very fun like one legged riding, going backwards, jumping etc. Right now I'd say I'm just begining phase 4. I can ride backwards, but not good enough to go to a destination in reverse around people and cars and such, but I can do figure 8s and start and stop. One legged riding is straight only and less than 30 feet. I haven't gone down stairs yet or bunny hope at all. I have aprox 7k miles on wheels now, but that is nothing compared to the milage some of these guys have. Get through the first 250 miles and you be loving every min of being on the wheel! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 Did anyone here exchange their motor for a new one due to the bearings? If so did you have to ship your old motor back to the reseller? My reseller wants me to send the motor back and I have to pay for the delivery, it's a bit frustrating because it's not cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UniVehje Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 15 minutes ago, Rawnei said: Did anyone here exchange their motor for a new one due to the bearings? If so did you have to ship your old motor back to the reseller? My reseller wants me to send the motor back and I have to pay for the delivery, it's a bit frustrating because it's not cheap. Who is your reseller? It makes no sense to ship the old motor. Maybe ship the whole wheel so they can do the motor change. Check the EU consumer protection laws on this issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flying W Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 11 minutes ago, Rawnei said: Did anyone here exchange their motor for a new one due to the bearings? If so did you have to ship your old motor back to the reseller? My reseller wants me to send the motor back and I have to pay for the delivery, it's a bit frustrating because it's not cheap. That sucks man, I only buy em from eWheels and I've never paid to return a part for a warranty replacement. I know there are cheaper places on ali to get wheels but it's worth it to me since no matter what eWheels with make it right. Your seller really should pay the shipping though, that's just an extra kick in the nuts. My new rs developed a knock in the motor after the first 7 miles into a 40mi ride. He replaced the whole wheel, and the replacement was here before he received the one I had back. I was not charged a dime. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoseHeadphones Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 Now that my suspension is sorted out I took the V11 out for its first long ride. Comfort is a phenomenal upgrade and the overall package is much more refined than my MSP. I've only run into two negatives: Pedal dip after turns: this one is strange to me If I do a 90 degree turn I wind up with the pedals pointed 3 degrees down. A 180 degree turn points the pedals 6 degrees down. A 360 degree turn ends with the pedals correctly level. I'm approximating the degrees based on how far the headlight throws when I use the app to set the pedal offset to point down 6 degrees. If I rock the wheel forward and back a bit the pedals will slowly climb until they're back to level, but another 180 degree turn and they're back to being pointed at the ground. I'm used to pedal dips being caused by calibration, but that caused the pedals to alternatively dip and raise in turns. No idea what would cause only a dipping behavior. I've calibrated multiple times on different surfaces, and tried 50/100% pedal sensitivity and offroad/commuter modes but the issue persists. I'm on FW 1.2.1. Go Home mode: I really hope I don't have to do all the steps in the tiltback->open phone->open app->enable go home process every time I hit 15% battery. Last I saw on the discussion thread this is the current behavior, which is really obnoxious. Ran into it the first time tonight and I'm already sick of it. Outside of those quibbles, very satisfied with the V11 so far. The only reason I'd want another wheel is for more speed or range but neither is a common issue for me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 7 minutes ago, UniVehje said: Who is your reseller? It makes no sense to ship the old motor. Maybe ship the whole wheel so they can do the motor change. Check the EU consumer protection laws on this issue. Loomo on AliExpress, they claim it's the factory that want's the motor back for after-sale, I'm surprised I have to send the motor back as I didn't hear anyone else having to do that. They want me to send the old motor back, cover the costs for that and then after they receive the old motor they will ship a new one. So right now I'm just trying to establish if this is really a demand from the factory or not thus looking for other people who already got a new V11 motor shipped. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 4 minutes ago, BoseHeadphones said: Pedal dip after turns: What you describe is the exact behavior of an angled calibration. Are you aware that the V11 should be leaning on the integrated stand during the calibration? Or have you maybe set a pedal angle in the app? It shouldn’t cause such behavior, but it would be interesting to know nevertheless. 4 minutes ago, BoseHeadphones said: Go Home mode: The next firmware update is supposed to include an option to enable the Go Home Mode permanently. We are all waiting in eager, no ETA has been given. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoseHeadphones Posted December 7, 2020 Share Posted December 7, 2020 7 hours ago, mrelwood said: What you describe is the exact behavior of an angled calibration. Are you aware that the V11 should be leaning on the integrated stand during the calibration? Or have you maybe set a pedal angle in the app? It shouldn’t cause such behavior, but it would be interesting to know nevertheless. The next firmware update is supposed to include an option to enable the Go Home Mode permanently. We are all waiting in eager, no ETA has been given. Great to hear on go home, does that still include a forced tiltback to a stop? Either way huge step in the right direction. A quick search struck out on V11 calibration instructions (oversight on IM to not have a paragraph in the app), so initially I tried to do it like on my GW wheels--with the wheel standing up. The good news is the app throws an error with the wheel upright, so on a lark I tried calibrating while it was sitting on the kickstand and was a bit surprised to see a success message. I did play with "balance angle" in the app--it takes effect immediately so it was useful to get reference points on how far the pedals were dipping--but set it back to 0 when actually riding. If signs point to the calibration being off then try to calibrate on different angles of ground to see if it can compensate for the behavior. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post BigSkyGlide Posted December 7, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted December 7, 2020 7 hours ago, Flying W said: That sucks man, I only buy em from eWheels and I've never paid to return a part for a warranty replacement. I know there are cheaper places on ali to get wheels but it's worth it to me since no matter what eWheels with make it right. Your seller really should pay the shipping though, that's just an extra kick in the nuts. My new rs developed a knock in the motor after the first 7 miles into a 40mi ride. He replaced the whole wheel, and the replacement was here before he received the one I had back. I was not charged a dime. You can't ask for any better than eWheels! I love those guys. We have bought several products through them. They have the best customer service I have ever dealt with. They will take time to answer any question you have, no matter what it is you're dealing with. I've bounced a lot of thoughts and questions off of them to help me make decisions on several EUC purchases and a scooter purchase. They've also allowed me to purchase FedEx shipping through their account when I've sold two of my EUCs, which helped me to save money. They will do that for any eWheels customer. Many thanks to Jason, Drew, William, and Zen for all of the help they have been. They will continue to get all of my business. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Rawnei Posted December 8, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted December 8, 2020 Ecodrift took apart a new V11 with the recent changes and posted a blog about it, you can see new bearings here: https://www.translatetheweb.com/?ref=TVert&from=&to=en&a=https%3A%2F%2Fecodrift.ru%2F2020%2F12%2F08%2Finmotion-v11-izmeneniya-v-dekabrskoj-partii%2F 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonesq Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 The new cells is a huge upgrade. https://budgetlightforum.com/node/73701 The Samsung 50G cells seem to have much better specs than the LG M50 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagingGrandpa Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 Well, yes, if I had to choose between M50 vs 50G, I'd choose 50G because of its faster discharge capability... especially in small p-ness packs like the 4P V11's and MSuper's... But bear in mind other components in V11 will limit the current to a little below 10A/cell, so you can't actually create a sustained 15A discharge in these EUC's. The difference in stored energy is less than 1%. It means, we expect no perceptable difference in performance between V11 with LG vs Samsung. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zopper Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 1 hour ago, RagingGrandpa said: Well, yes, if I had to choose between M50 vs 50G, I'd choose 50G because of its faster discharge capability... especially in small p-ness packs like the 4P V11's and MSuper's... But bear in mind other components in V11 will limit the current to a little below 10A/cell, so you can't actually create a sustained 15A discharge in these EUC's. The difference in stored energy is less than 1%. It means, we expect no perceptable difference in performance between V11 with LG vs Samsung. How about sharp spikes - can those cells provide a better buffer in case of a pothole at high speed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post meepmeepmayer Posted December 8, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted December 8, 2020 (edited) Here's a brand new EcoDrift article detailing the latest batch improvements. Lots of pictures. It's quite a few details: valve caps motor and bearing changes new cells: Samsung 50G some subtle board improvements that I wish I could interpret what they mean Inmotion V11. Изменения в декабрьской партии Inmotion V11. Changes in the December batch (Bing Translator) Edited December 8, 2020 by RagingGrandpa note: @Rawnei beat you to it (four posts up) :p 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonesq Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 2 hours ago, RagingGrandpa said: Well, yes, if I had to choose between M50 vs 50G, I'd choose 50G because of its faster discharge capability... especially in small p-ness packs like the 4P V11's and MSuper's... But bear in mind other components in V11 will limit the current to a little below 10A/cell, so you can't actually create a sustained 15A discharge in these EUC's. The difference in stored energy is less than 1%. It means, we expect no perceptable difference in performance between V11 with LG vs Samsung. Does the Samsung 50G's higher maximum discharge current mean that it has a higher safety margin at top speed and under hard acceleration? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post RagingGrandpa Posted December 8, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted December 8, 2020 1 hour ago, Zopper said: How about sharp spikes - can those cells provide a better buffer in case of a pothole at high speed? 27 minutes ago, Jonesq said: Does the Samsung 50G's higher maximum discharge current mean that it has a higher safety margin at top speed and under hard acceleration? Not significantly. At high speeds we're most concerned with minimizing voltage sag, at moderate current levels (think <10A/cell). A 'stronger' cell (lower internal resistance, faster discharge capable) will sag slightly less. In this case, the cells are quite similar, and the packs are the same voltage. So, no significant performance difference. Notice how Inmo is not advertising the cell change as an 'upgrade'? Normally they take every opportunity to tout their new products... but in this case it's not much change. The new bearing size tho, excellent! 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonesq Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 1 hour ago, RagingGrandpa said: Not significantly. At high speeds we're most concerned with minimizing voltage sag, at moderate current levels (think <10A/cell). A 'stronger' cell (lower internal resistance, faster discharge capable) will sag slightly less. In this case, the cells are quite similar, and the packs are the same voltage. So, no significant performance difference. Notice how Inmo is not advertising the cell change as an 'upgrade'? Normally they take every opportunity to tout their new products... but in this case it's not much change. The new bearing size tho, excellent! Thanks for the explanation! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 2 hours ago, RagingGrandpa said: The new bearing size tho, excellent! Why is that? Asked as someone who has no idea why. 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagingGrandpa Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 New larger bearing 6916-2RS (and new dimensions for the motor side cover to allow for it) has larger balls, and there seem to be some name-brand semi-affordable bearings available online in the new size. ($100/ea instead of $500/ea like EX!) And no terrible lip in the side cover to drown the seals in garbage 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike_bike_kite Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, Rawnei said: Why is that? Asked as someone who has no idea why. 🙂 This is what I've gathered: The hollow motors with the new bearing size are seen as better because the large bearings make a much stronger connection between the motor and the chassis. Older Gotway Monsters with the small axles needed their shims adjusting and the axle nuts to be retorqued periodically but this isn't needed with the new design. New design also doesn't need shims. Larger gauge motor cables can also be used but no-one is doing that currently. The disadvantages are they weigh about 1.5Kg more than just having a small axle, they're also more costly and the current designs allow water to get into the bearings which causes some to fail. Edited December 8, 2020 by mike_bike_kite 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 3 hours ago, mike_bike_kite said: This is what I've gathered: The hollow motors with the new bearing size are seen as better because the large bearings make a much stronger connection between the motor and the chassis. Older Gotway Monsters with the small axles needed their shims adjusting and the axle nuts to be retorqued periodically but this isn't needed with the new design. New design also doesn't need shims. Larger gauge motor cables can also be used but no-one is doing that currently. The disadvantages are they weigh about 1.5Kg more than just having a small axle, they're also more costly and the current designs allow water to get into the bearings which causes some to fail. I think the question was about the practical differences between the original 6816 bearing on the V11 compared to the 3rd batch bearing 6916, both being large bearings for a hollow core motor. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike_bike_kite Posted December 9, 2020 Share Posted December 9, 2020 4 minutes ago, mrelwood said: I think the question was about the practical differences between the original 6816 bearing on the V11 compared to the 3rd batch bearing 6916, both being large bearings for a hollow core motor. Ooops. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmsjms Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 (edited) On 12/6/2020 at 9:47 PM, mrelwood said: sounds like you hop on while standstill and then try to accelerate. Try a sliding start instead. Like on a skateboard, push some momentum with the second foot before lifting it from the ground. I do the sliding like a skateboard I put one foot on, hold the handle, push with the other foot once or twice, get up and lean forward immediately; the power boost is slow-slow which makes it extra difficult to retain balance; I expected it to start accelerating immediately and it doesn't. This is the sinking feeling that I was talking about. It's like I'm stepping on a small row boat and I can feel that the boat is not balanced well on the water when I am standing. Will check again tomorrow the feet guidance you suggested. The farther my toes out of the pedal, the more responsive the power boost obviously, but once I position my second foot on my head is looking forward, so I can't tell whether that second foot's positioning is precisely like the first one's positioning; and once I'm riding I can't adjust my feet yet. I rode the wheel to work and back today on a 35 mph traffic, and I was slowing down traffic behind me. It was a total of about 15 miles of riding today. It was dangerous. I refuse to share my riding lane with the passing cars, so I stay in the middle of that lane and let them pass me on the other lane on my left side. And I'm not doing the bike lanes because they're neglected with debris. Street sweepers don't seem to clean them. Plus, the bike lanes are too narrow... especially when I started going around 20-25 mph, and I didn't want to be squeezed. Not enjoying it. I have an eerie feeling that I'll get hit by a car. Then occasionally I had to use the sidewalks some of the time. Slowing down on sidewalks and making some sharp turns was not enjoyable and I had to abort the ride many times and hop back on the wheel. Starting the wheel on a narrow sidewalk with uneven pavement = pain in the ass. I think I should quit complaining. This thread is about the V11, not about me complaining. Edited December 10, 2020 by jmsjms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted December 10, 2020 Share Posted December 10, 2020 5 hours ago, jmsjms said: I expected it to start accelerating immediately and it doesn't. You need to realize that the EUC can only react to the commands that you give. It can’t accelerate if you don’t press the front of the pedals (just like a gas pedal), because the only thing the wheel does and can do is to try to keep the pedals level. So you need to figure out why you are not able to push the gas pedal right away. Hadn’t heard of anyone holding the handle while getting on the EUC. Might be related. You really need to watch the learning videos that have abundantly been shared just to avoid beginners from hitting these kinds of obstacles with the learning process. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
holgeight Posted December 11, 2020 Share Posted December 11, 2020 Hey everyone, been loving my v11 so far. Having a lot of issues connecting via bluetooth but I can still ride so it's whatever. I initially set my tire psi to around 28, and I'm experiencing some wobbles and wanted to try a higher pressure. However I'm unable to connect to the tire with the pressure gauge anymore. I'm still able to pump the suspension and leak air in the suspension, and when I try the pump on its own it works. No luck on anything regarding the tire anymore, can't seem to pump in air no matter what I try (tried with the extension and without it). Has anybody experienced this or have any advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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