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BoseHeadphones

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About BoseHeadphones

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  • Location
    Tucson, AZ
  • EUC
    V8, Mten3, MSP, V11, Sherman Sold: Nikola 84v

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  1. If you were to slide the rear wall down a couple inches it'd still fit on an ender 3 bed with a bit of rotation. I don't think there's a need to extend the rear wall downward, the existing length is plenty. I did see that model, but I don't think having an overhang is necessary at all. The OEM V11 pads are totally flat and just kept on with adhesive: https://www.ewheels.com/product/inmotion-v11-powerpads/ What I was picturing is extending out the bottom so the pad could be screwed into the V11 side panels for stability--like this flypad model: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:465
  2. I think the design is great as-is at this point all I've got are wishlist items: I can see on your posted make you've got the pad angled back slightly, but I've got it mounted with the rear wall going straight up and down. Unfortunately then the rear puck is then a couple inches higher than the front puck so it's not helping with jumping. Lowering/extending the rear wall+puck to line up with the front puck would fix my issue. Though you only extended it I think it'd exceed the print size of my ender 3 bed. Wish there was an easy way to make that parametric, I think the angle is a mat
  3. Yep that's exactly what I was picturing. Almost done printing another left pad, I'll try this model out for the right one. Did you wind up moving the rear wall in or pushing the puck position out?
  4. The pucks themselves work great! What I'm referring to is the edge of the rear puck holder not being aligned with the rear wall so it pokes out a bit. By comparison on the front the puck holder is smoothly integrated with the front of the pad. I took a quick shot at modifying that myself but I'm very much a beginner at Fusion. I wound up doing a quick remix to remove the ridges and am printing a set of those for a friend. It's a matter of preference, but when I'm trying to accelerate/brake I'm trying to put pressure on the front or back of the pad asap and the ridges get in the wa
  5. The different modes have different pushback limits, but that affects a ton of other ride parameters too. Bare minimum they should make pushback adjustable in the custom shaping mode.
  6. My Ender 3 has been a great machine, but I wouldn't breath the words "user-friendly" anywhere near it. In the past two years I've had to replace the whole hot end three times now, the PSU fan, the parts fan, and gone through 3 glass beds. Not work I mind doing since I learned a lot about the printer by doing it, but know what you're getting into. Actually 3d printing is also a lot of experimentation and tweaking--each material has wildly different properties that can complicate printing. Even with the same material, each manufacturer can require significantly different settings to get a g
  7. Put some comments on thingiverse before I realized you're here--great job on these. I think it's handily the best pads on thingiverse. Did a quick remix to remove the ribbing and slapped them on my new Sherman, which helped immensely. Only part of the design I dislike is the way the rear puck cylinder protrude from the rest of the rear of the pad--it focuses pressure on that area which hurts the comfort. Nothing a tiny bit of baby foam couldn't fix.
  8. Pretty important distinction--OW XR pushback is incredibly mild compared to EUC tiltback. It's easy to miss, esp. since it actually goes away if you speed up. The biggest safety improvement Future Motion could put in place is borrowing from EUCs--have the tiltback speed be user-settable, and have it increase in intensity if the rider continues to speed up. Bonus points for an audible motor load alarm. Tiltback on every EUC I've ridden has been obvious and effective. Raising the pedals naturally slows you down and makes it more difficult to speed up, which is exactly what I want to happen
  9. Just got a recent batch Sherman from eWheels (battery-scented and all!). Put photos in the pedal height thread, but the 1cm increased pedal height is there. Pedal dip in sharps turns is definitely noticeable, though it's not something that bothers me much since the headlight has a pretty good amount of flood. I like that the headlight angle is independently adjustable, I'll probably kick it up a couple degrees to compensate--really wish that was an option on the v11, I don't want to raise the pedal angle just to have the headlights usable. Even though the dip on my v11 is way l
  10. Spoke with Jason at eWheels and the latest batch is supposed to be a full 1" taller. Just got mine today, after airing out the battery fumes I tried to shoot some comparison photos. Hard to get a consistent reference, but going by some of these earlier pictures it looks closer to the quoted 1cm figure: Had to hunt down a metric tape measure, but looks ~125mm to ~135mm. Similar story, ~170mm vs ~190mm. This is my only Sherman experience so I've got no frame of reference for how the lifted pedals affect the ride, but I've been really impressed with the agility, speed,
  11. Great to hear on go home, does that still include a forced tiltback to a stop? Either way huge step in the right direction. A quick search struck out on V11 calibration instructions (oversight on IM to not have a paragraph in the app), so initially I tried to do it like on my GW wheels--with the wheel standing up. The good news is the app throws an error with the wheel upright, so on a lark I tried calibrating while it was sitting on the kickstand and was a bit surprised to see a success message. I did play with "balance angle" in the app--it takes effect immediately so it was useful
  12. Now that my suspension is sorted out I took the V11 out for its first long ride. Comfort is a phenomenal upgrade and the overall package is much more refined than my MSP. I've only run into two negatives: Pedal dip after turns: this one is strange to me If I do a 90 degree turn I wind up with the pedals pointed 3 degrees down. A 180 degree turn points the pedals 6 degrees down. A 360 degree turn ends with the pedals correctly level. I'm approximating the degrees based on how far the headlight throws when I use the app to set the pedal offset to poi
  13. I'd file that under abnormal, there certainly isn't a secret handshake you're missing here. Mine audibly locks as soon as the trolley is in line with the handle, it takes almost zero force. Interesting noise, bit more of a swooshy/springy noise than a sharp click.
  14. eWheels hooked me up with the suspension spacers and we're in business. There's still the bit of wobble front to back from the trolley handle, but I don't feel it in the pedals so I'm fine with it. The pedal rattle was a pretty obvious symptom and reason to disassemble the wheel--if the spacers were in place to begin with I'd have been completely happy with it out of the box. Seems extreme to plan for a teardown before the wheel shows up.
  15. I think I've found a more obvious issue--I've only got 6 spacers, one side is totally missing them: Action shot of the right fully-spacered side: This also explains why the rattle is more prominent on the left side, which is missing the spacers. I was wondering why only 6 out of 8 of those holes appeared to have screws in them! Going to follow up with eWheels and hope they have spares readily available.
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