meepmeepmayer

That's cool, I didn't know it works like this! Makes sense.

I'm no expert and I'm not sure what is wrong with your wheel (battery). This is how I interpret it: The light goes green because the charger stopped charging. The charger stopped charging because one battery pack stopped accepting the charge. Since all packs are connected (at the same voltage automatically), that stops charging into all packs (into the entire wheel). The battery management system in each battery pack stops charging as soon as one battery cell in that pack reaches its maximum voltage (4.2V). Because charging more would overcharge that cell, which is to be avoided. So: as soon as one cell in the entire wheel is "full", the wheel stops accepting any charge. The weakest link determines when the charger stops. - Now the theoretical example scenario: one cell somewhere is completely bad. Electrically, it acts no longer as a battery cell (has a voltage), but simply like a piece of conducting wire. 84V batteries are made from 20 cells in series (20 * 4.2V = 84V). Then you have multiple blocks of 20 cells in a pack, and multiple packs in a wheel (e.g. 2 packs with 2x20 cells each in your V10). One bad cell means you only have 19*4.2V= 79.8V maximum charge. So the charger will stop charging at that. So: if you can't charge above that voltage, that is a pretty clear indication that you have a bad cell. - I don't know if you have a bad cell somewhere. Because you can charge notably above those 79.8V, which shouldn't be possible then. But maybe a cell is faulty and you only get 1.7V from it (which would give you your 19*4.2V + 1.7V = 81.5V). Or multiple cells are slightly faulty? I don't really know how to interpret your voltage. Maybe it's just a crazy charger malfunction and the voltmeter reading of the unconnected charger doesn't say anything? Maybe the board has a malfunction somehow that influences charging? Maybe your battery is damaged. These are the kind of fine details a seller would know best what they mean Side note: not being able to charge to 100% is also bad because cell balancing (equalizing the fine voltage differences) seems to only happen at full charge. Not balancing regularly by charging to 100% can decrease battery life and ultimately lead to battery damage (dangerous). - My point is: your V10's symptoms are cause for concern, because a faulty battery pack can be dangerous. So this is a "Need to find out what the problem is and not sleep on it" situation. Sorry for the bad news (again). EUCs are great, but sometimes frustrating stuff like this happens which can be really off-putting. High highs, low lows. Power through it to get back to the good times (and more range on your V10!) Definitely contact Inmotion support again. Call if necessary until you get a reply (https://inmotioncanada.com/ has phone numbers listed, I assume that's where you bought, I just googled "Inmotion Canada"). Maybe saying your battery might be damaged and you are worried about the dangers of a fire will get you heard Maybe there are other Inmotion representatives that can help you if you get no reply there.

Looks like your battery is not fully charged and damaged (otherwise it would fully charge). This is dangerous insofar as that damaged batteries are always a cause for concern (worst case: the wheel suddenly stops working during riding, or can start a fire any time). Sorry for the bad news, but don't sit on this. Who's your seller? It's really that guy's job to interpret this and offer a fix.

Always suspect the charger first, don't worry about the wheel too early Chargers are cheaply built. Months? I hope not about this issue. In doubt, your seller should be the better point of contact.

Exactly the same for me! Left leg is the dominant one, left turns are easier

Please stay on topic guys

Oh that makes sense! Yes, higher pedals would have been nice. I guess the same reason as for the 2.125'' tire applies: they didn't want to modify the shell. They're only selling the 100V 1800Wh nowadays, and have been for a while now. A v2 upgrade with nicer (back) lights and a 2700Wh option (keeping the 1800Wh as standard) would be nice. Or maybe a new suspension? A hollow motor can the first step towards that. I'm just wondering if we will see a Nikla upgrade, or if 16'' Tesla + 18'' RS (formerly msuper series) will be their new standard, constantly-upgraded models. Or the 1020h -> 1500Wh is significant enough to upgrade the Tesla (especially as third party modders already sell this) and it means nothing for other wheels. Anyways, I'm just wondering/speculating what this new Tesla v3 might mean Alone, a 1500Wh Tesla is certainly a great wheel. Relatively small and zippy but powerful, fast, with quite good range (higher pedals really would have been nice).

Here it says they use the Nikola pedals (same shape as the ACM/Tesla pedals but a bit bigger) now. Did the Tesla v2 already get those? If not, they are changed pedals even if the difference is small

They have a new motor? Or is it one of the RS HT/HS motors? I wonder whether that means the Nikola will be upgraded, or it was an outlier wheel with no follow-up.

The Sherman's knobby tire is perfect for that kind of ground! Mud, wet grass, soggy snow - it just digs in. Makes that kind of route go from scary to glorious

To clarify and help visualize, the danger seems to be water in the battery that seeps or gets moved (by moving the battery) so it (eventually) causes a short. Or water causing rust damage (as you see in the picture above) that might lead to a weak spot and problems later. Separate and dry the battery fast but safe. That's the motto of the hour Later I guess opening the battery box (and foil if it has one) and looking at your cells might be a good idea.

Poor wheel! Not worried, and you acted well by disconnecting the battery, but you never know. I would remove the battery from the wheel and put it (the battery) in a place where it can both dry, but also where no damage would happen from the fire and smoke, were it to catch fire. Keeping the battery-less wheel in the heated garage (or inside) is great, nothing bad can happen, it just needs to dry before something can rust. As for the battery... put it in an old pot, make sure it's safe from water and the cold, and store it outside (on grass) or something like this. Whatever you can come up with. Or just put a plastic box over the wheel, so the damage would be limited to a burn spot on your garage floor and a lot of smoke under the box and not too much coming out (hopefully). Maybe some careful blow-drying to remove all water quicker? Up to your imagination. After everything is guaranteed dry (wait a few days!), look very closely for damage (like rust on the battery). You'll see if your wheel acts normal or the board is done for. - The idea to quickly dry everything is great. Just assume the battery can light up any moment, even if that is unlikely. Historically, Gotway batteries have been good in this regard (in their blue foil, I think the mten3 has a box, not sure if it's also foiled inside). In general, a battery (cell) ignites if it gets too hot. It gets too hot from too high (uncontrolled) current aka a short somewhere, e.g. from water connecting some things that shouldn't be connected. So, in theory, at any point a water drop could move into the wrong spot and trigger a fire. Would be bad luck, but bad luck can happen, so act according to your conscience

Here's a brand new EcoDrift article detailing the latest batch improvements. Lots of pictures. It's quite a few details: valve caps motor and bearing changes new cells: Samsung 50G some subtle board improvements that I wish I could interpret what they mean Inmotion V11. Изменения в декабрьской партии Inmotion V11. Changes in the December batch (Bing Translator)

Glad you enjoy it! One more future addict The speed limit may be counterproductive. Speed stabilizes you, 5mph less so. It's easier to learn to ride moderately fast first, so don't be afraid of 10-15mph. Just ride as fast as you're comfortable with, no artificial limit needed.

What voltage is that? That makes it sound better, because with a bad cell the battery would max out at like ~80V (less than 98%!). I'd still not ride (discharge) or charge the wheel, just to be sure. Curious how ewheels will explain this. Random crazy board seems like the best explanation.

Sounds like an overzealous overcharge warning. Be careful. Obviously the wheel shouldn't complain if you merely brake at full battery. So this might be a bad board (somehow?) or a bad battery (bad cell? full at below 100% voltage?). Does the battery charge to 100% (~84V)? I would be hesitant to ride this wheel until this has been cleared. Because something is wrong. Better safe than sorry. Contact your seller!

Maybe Darknessbot remembers the settings you set. Of course it wouldn't know if another app had changed something in the mean time, because apps can't read settings from Gotway wheels. So it would display something wrong. Yes. You can't change at what speed it appears. Only switch it on or off. That's only internal to the app (it can make your phone beep). Apps can't make wheel beep unless the wheel already supports that particular beep in some way.

That's just the 2nd speed alarm (should be at 35kph). An app can NOT read any settings from a Gotway wheel, it's strictly one-way (unless they lately changed it, never heard of that) So it doesn't know which alarm is off or on. Just send the command to disable the 2nd alarm. You can do a lift test (lift wheel and watch speed in app) to see what beeps are on and appear at what speed.

Just tell the seller to charge his wheel to full (keeping the charger in after it has gone green) and then have the seller show you any app (doesn't matter which, and he is going to have one anyways). Anything around 84V is good, it just shouldn't be notably lower. Full charge is 84.0V on paper. On your iPhone you can use Darknessbot for all wheels. Other than battery, check for obvious mechanical damage (especially for a bent rim) and ask about notable crashes and falls.

I think that's just the price. If Shermans were $1000, they would sell like V8s. EUCs (and other PEVs like ebikes or escooters) are a new category, somewhere between what you can do with a bicycle and what you can do with a motorbike or car. Probably closer to the bicycle side. They can replace public transportation in many situations where the other alternative would just be a car. Let's say 15km/10km one way range, or even further. Faster + no physical effort makes more possible compared to a bicycle. And if EUCs are used mostly as last-mile devices, that's also in big part due to the price of a serious wheel which could be used for more. Other reasons would be the lack of infrastructure - legality, reliable and good (safe!) bike paths, etc. Who wants to attempt more in an uncertain environment than last mile and limited financial investment? But EUCs/PEVs fill the (hitherto quite empty) spectrum between bicycle and car, and can be used for much more. We'll only see that when you can do everything with a $1000 EUC and the infrastructure is there. - So big and badass EUCs are natural as far as I'm concerned. They don't need to be heavy, though. Is there any benefit (like stability) to a weight over 25kg? I think not. I believe the distinction is between wheels that you purely ride (weight and size are not that important, but speed and stability/comfort are) and wheels that must also work when not ridden (not too heavy, not too big, trolley handle, easy to carry and take on public transportation, etc) where the specs are secondary.

The Monster v1 84V has a weaker board, unless they changed that (but I think that was the 100V and later v2 where they went TO-247 sized mosfets). It's not a bad wheel and has been super reliable for those who have one, just like all the other old wheels - except for the shim issues. Personally, I wouldn't get one because I hate that it rides like a freight train. I never liked it. If that wouldn't be your problem, I guess it depends on the price. Somehow my intuition tells me a newer wheel would be better. But if the price is good and you want a Monster specifically... Hard (and personal) question, so trust and go by your instincts!

Grass is evil!

If you trust the pictures, you can see from the rim that it is an RS motor. The RS motor is a "16 inch" motor and has the rim ring to expand to "18 inch" size, just like on the RS. The EX motor is a genuine "18 inch" motor (it also has 40mm wide and more magnets). So this is an expanded RS. Not sure why they didn't just use the EX motor, it seems to be pretty nice going by the suspension-EX reviews. I'm also puzzled why they prioritize this over the Monster Pro.

Topic locked on request of EUC World creator @Seba. Please read the updated first post:

Done.