meepmeepmayer

Let me guess: 25kph speed limit (must be hardware limited), aka useless, even a bike is better Ridiculous, unneeded motor power limits, and overly complicated class/vehicle type distictions, just because Empty promises of allowing more powerful PEVs later I've seen it before... Mediocre is the enemy of good. I'd rather have nothing than "but we already legalized PEVs, what else do you want?" excuse laws.

Official rumors I wouldn't be surprised if they offer a suspension wheel, along with a 16x3 incher, in the future. Why not beat Begode/Gotway at their own game if they can.

Moin und hallo! Ja, ignorier das, wir haben regelmäßig Leute die nicht Englisch reden, da ist die Moderator-Beschwerde ein halbautomatischer Reflex. Hier kannste gerne auf Deutsch posten Fette Whatsapp Gruppe: http://www.eucisnocrime.com/, da kannste mal fragen wer auch aus dem Pott ist oder wen kennt. Versuch mal mit @US69 in Kontakt zu kommen, der ist glaube ich aus deiner Ecke. Der war zwar ewig nicht mehr hier im Forum, aber wenn du eine PM schreibst kriegt er vermutlich eine Email. Findest ihn auch auf Facebook "Ulf Schnedsteiger" da ist er aktiv. Youtube evtl. auch. Der kann dir sicher jede Menge Kontakte geben. Viel Erfolg

Hey, it eventually worked! That's already a success in the world of EUC manufacturers Congratulations on the nice new wheel!

Any idea what the mechanism is behind what happened? Do the smaller capacitors simply get too hot because they are physically too small, and then you get a short?

Good investigation! Topic pinned for now. (I also edited the title so people hopefully won't miss this, hope you don't mind.) You would think a simple charger is know tech nowadays, but apparently it isn't and one has to open the charger up and check the capacitors to be sure it's ok (Be sure you know what you are doing when working on electronics. Capacitors may hold charge, even when the charger isn't plugged in!) - Also I'm disappointed there's no safety mechanism in the charger (or wheel, but it should be in the charger). A broken charger is one thing, but it shouldn't be able to fry the board and in the worst case even start a fire if things go completely haywire in the wheel!! Offtopic, looking at the board pictures: Why do the motor power cables nowadays have these good connectors, but the battery power input is still the same soldered crap?! It's not like there's less current in the battery cables than the motor cables (right?)...

Good idea with the gyro! Maybe that's it and not the batteries. I assumed tiltback meant some kinds of warning beeps (actual tiltback), not just tilted pedals. Whatever it was, I think it's safe to say that the wheel was simply too cold.

It should be mentioned that Chooch is like half the weight of @CaseysCustomCycles. A heavy rider he is not But yeah, watch videos and maybe you get a feel for which wheel is for you. And always follow your heart/trust your intuition that says "I can't say why but I kinda want that one".

I'm afraid I am! I'm a mountain rider (or rather I want to be a mountain rider, not possible with my old ass wheel, which I learned in 2017 by frying it on a mountain). If I had to buy an 18 inch wheel for that, it would definitely be the RS (HT or HS) simply for the beefier board and the fact that the MSX and MSP (direct predecessors) were extremely robust in that regard. It's an extreme use case. For any "reasonable" riding, the V11 should be good enough. But if you want the "best" 18 inch mountain climber just for that, I guess that's the RS. Not sure about 16 inchers (Nikola, 16X) vs. 18 inchers. In doubt, a smaller tire should always be better. But I have no experience with any of these wheels on mountains, so someone else must tell you. Naturally, "why not both?" is he best solution

I don't know anything about batteries. If they are extremely cold, would they still show the normal charge percentage? I don't know. But if they do, it's not a stretch to assume that a nearly-inert battery would have extreme voltage drop as soon as you utilize it. Aka some kind of warning tiltback very soon. 15F is -10 degrees Celsius!! Aka "nasty below freezing cold" unless you're a Russian where that's just mild weather Hearing that and "wheel stored in car during work"... not much imagination needed to guess (it's just a guess) what the problem is. If everything works fine after the wheel has been inside (warm) long enough, that answers the question. If the wheel still doesn't work then (e.g. not charge to 100%), either something else was the problem to begin with, or the cold damaged the batteries. If the car/batteries weren't actually cold to begin with, that also means it's something else. I don't know anything about batteries.

15 degrees Fahrenheit I presume? Don't store your wheel in your car! Treat it like a dog, don't keep it in the heat or freezing cold. Take it inside with you. Batteries should be stored (= not used) at room temperature. The batteries don't work well when (nearly) frozen. Presumably they were so weak that the wheel tilted you back due to the low voltage/high voltage drop/low power delivery they had then. If you have cold batteries, switch the wheel on and do a few pendulums to warm them up. Just having the wheel on will need almost no power and therefore not heat them up much. Since batteries are mostly just a bunch of metal, they can need quite a lot of heat before they are warm. Think of having a brick-sized block of metal and how long it would need to get warm when it is really cold through and through. Riding at low temps is no issue, as long as you start with warm batteries (taking the wheel outside from inside where you stored it), the usage will keep them reasonably warm. But having a nearly frozen battery from lying in a car for hours is a problem. You mention "warm truck" but presumably the car was cold before and only briefly warmed up recently? If your batteries were still cold, that might be an explanation for the tiltback.

(Topic moved from "Reviews" to the Begode forum and duplicate topic removed)

If you're really looking at loooong 35% hills (that is crazy steep! - you sure about the number?), I'm not sure any wheel can reliably do it. In the end they all have far too thin motor power cables and too small mosfets for the extreme currents involved. A real unmitigated mountain climber wheel, a wheel that you can't kill no matter what - it doesn't exist yet. (I wish it would, that's what I want). But EUCs are pretty good already, and I recommend you take what you can get Motor wattage doesn't matter. The motor isn't the limiting part. All I can say is that the RS has bigger mosfets, a board not cramped in a small box, and a bit smaller currents due to the higher voltage. That speaks for it on extreme hills. The V11 is apparently the better wheel for you if you can temper your expectations, especially given that the RS also might not do what you want (I don't know). Maybe it helps to get an impression what EUCs can do if you check out all the "overheat hill" videos on Marty's channel: https://www.youtube.com/c/ElectricUnicycles/videos Someone else has to chime in on that.

Heyo! Both the RS and V11 are plenty strong for mountains, nothing to worry about here. EUCs constantly have to balance you upright, even in case of a sudden bump or other power spike. So running out of power isn't a thing like with ebikes. If you ran out of power, even for an instant, you'd be on the ground. Nobody builds wheels that just crash people on the next incline or pothole. Always follow your intuition in regards to EUCs. If you already now say you want suspension, get a wheel with suspension That would be the V11. Now if you somehow think the V11 is the rational choice but the RS just is the wheel that you can't help but like, get an RS. The RS might hold a little longer under continuous extreme conditions, that's the only difference to the V11 in regards of capability. People buy the RS for the form factor, perceived torque (RS HT), speed (well that would be the RS HS) and the feel of riding (firmware), not because it can do more for anything but the most demanding riders. Check out this video by @Marty Backe if it helps. He has an entire V11 playlist. Whenever you see an MSP (msuper Pro), that's the RS predecessor with the same battery, board, and motor, so it's 99% comparable to the RS. And don't be put off by his preproduction V11 frying on his "overheat hill" test, that hill is extreme and it's not the final version of the V11 (I think they fixed something, I forgot the details. Maybe @Marty Backecan tell).

Contact your seller. Not your job to fix a brand new wheel. What voltage does the app show?

You can send PMs now.

Might be the BMS (battery management system). A small mosfet or other part can fail, or there might be a loose connection somewhere. If something like that happens, it happens right away (on the first real stressing) - just like a board with a subpar mosfet would likely fail right away, not later. Or it's a bad cell. That failure would also happen rather sooner than later if a cell compromised to begin with. It's probably more about a lack of quality control/cheap components instead of being a new product. That's typical for all EUC companies. But the good news here is: now that you've got the teething issues out of the way (unless the new battery also doesn't like you) you can very much expect your wheel to be problem-free from now on Failures tend to happen soon or not at all.

25kph for 4 hours must have been tedious as hell. Respect

Since nobody knows the answer and we all just guess: with a 3p setup, I also doubt the S18 goes down to 3.0V. That seems unsafe. But Marty's range test wasn't bad at all (65km/40 miles at 30kph/20mph). I get that with my 1300Wh ACM at the same or little slower speed (in summer). So it definitely must go down further than the 3.3V of my ACM. My guess is 3.15V. Someone with a S18 check please.

Quoted for absolute truth.

That means you should just go faster There is zero reason why you should be able to go for 20 seconds but not longer. If you can balance on the wheel while you ride it, you can balance on the wheel while you ride it. It doesn't get less stable with time. You're simply too slow, and riding slower is harder. So speed up and enjoy the success. Do a nice dynamic start, keep the speed, and if you feel wobbly while riding, speed up instead of slow down. Later, you can see how slow you can get before it gets too wobbly, but just start with higher speeds than you did till now. Speed stabilizes you and is your friend.

Have a look here: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=king+song+14c+disassembly

It seems there is a tradeoff where faster charging means less capacity. I'd rather have more capacity. Here's a detailed article: https://arstechnica.com/science/2021/01/whats-the-technology-behind-a-five-minute-charge-battery/ I don't like that approach. Vehicles are unused for most of the time, plenty of time to charge slower for most people I would guess. For EUCs, you can have two 5A chargers with many wheels, but carrying those big ass chargers might be the real limitation already. A faster charger would be even bigger. So unless you can charge on one of those car charging stations, you have that disadvantage. Personally, I'd rather have range and weight improvements instead of faster charging on a wheel.

Hi. If you upload a picture somewhere else, all you need to do is to copy and paste its URL for it to be displayed in your post. More here:

Hi! Looks like you learned fast What area are you in? Are there some nice tours in these mountains maybe?