meepmeepmayer

I'm explaining, not justifying. In doubt shiny new features do beat "same but in better". So people will ooh and aah at 5mph higher top speed or 500W more rated motor power (even if that means nothing) more than at better build quality or whatever. 110% agreed. $$$$$ money maker! The V12 seems to be a 16 incher like the 16X/Nik though. Hopefully it revives that segment which is a bit stale now (and Veteran should offer a 16x3 wheel too).

People want something new. What IM does may be perfectly fine and a great business move in terms of expected sales, but it does not look like something really new (speed, power, fancy new feature, etc. - the usual enthusiast metrics). So some people will express that.

There's no juniors, only mods You can split the post off and sticky that if you like.

The wheel would beep at you, tilt the pedals, and in the worst case (if you ignore the warnings and keep riding downhill) shut off before overcharging the battery. Just charge to 90% or 95% or whatever instead of 100% if you start on the top of a hill. And you can always ride back up to lose more energy than you'll get back coming down. So worst case, if it complains, you ride back up a few meters before continuing downhill.

Can you post a detailed picture of the board/interior? Maybe we see something. Check the motor cables for damage/melting/anything unusual. What does the wheel do if it's upright and you turn it on? If the motor is shorted, the tire would be nearly impossible to rotate. The one-finger-turning you do wouldn't be possible. So this is a curious case.

The tire still seems to move quite freely. If shorted, it would be very hard to move. The beeps might just be the "help I have fallen over" beeps. But I guess the burned smell seals the deal and means you do have some damage. Killing a motor is nearly impossible. It's probably the board. Check it, and the motor power cables. Just smell where the damage is

Yep it's not bots, just people advertising their fake passports/counterfeit money/fake language certificates/fake diplomas/sex dolls/whatever, or people trying to sneakily place SEO links while looking like innocuous posters. Fake sales posts don't happen, EUCs are way to niche of a topic for that to happen. It's not super bad or anything, banning is quick and easy (these people spend more time setting up their crap that nobody but the mods will ever see than we spend getting rid of them, which can be done in one very satisfying click). But this spammy background noise that means we need to have some kind of minimal plausibility check if someone new is a "real" interested poster before they can be let loose. Restrictions go away quickly (as you have seen, I didn't do anything extra) but a new member isn't immediately unlimited. The "private sales" forum is how a lot of people get here, and it is extremely frustrating for us to see new people who could really benefit from being able to send private messages right away, but they're exactly those who can't. That's the worst about the restrictions. There's no way around it unfortunately. At least we didn't find one. (Btw we don't regard "private sales" as low priority, on the contrary it's a big new entry point for potential riders and forum members.) Anyways, welcome to the forum!

You can send PMs now. Sorry, these new member restrictions are dumb, but without them people would get spam messages left and right. The current restrictions are about the minimum that works. Every time we try to relax something, we learn why that something has been put into place

It's not about whether the cloth was attached or not. It could have gotten stuck on some dirt, too. The point is to never block the tire of a wheel when it's on. Because naturally that might fry the electronics as they try to counteract the blockage.

Sorry, I feel responsible for this! I added a big disclaimer to only do this kind of cleaning while the wheel is off. If your wheel is still working, I think you're safe. The 18(X)L has fuses (I believe) for exactly this kind of situation (blocked tire level of stresses), so if the fuses didn't blow, that's a very good sign. The wheel just told you to stop early enough. You can do a few pendulums (not too crazy, pendulums put a lot of stress on the wheel, just like 10 seconds) if you want to reassure yourself. If anything were close to failing, it would fail then, and with no crash to you. So you'd know. But you should be good. Sorry again. Also, this is what full face helmets are for. EUCs could always have a hardware failure, even if that virtually never happens in real life. The helmet is everyone's insurance for the tiny bit of uncertainty left.

This is just a motor characteristic. It tells you exactly nothing about what the battery does, or anything about any battery currents. It just means "we claim you can run this motor continuously with 2000W input without it overheating". Just saying because a lot of people treat motor power numbers like they mean something... - Also something that comes up with EUC BMSes: make sure it does not shut down on undervoltage (apparently, usually BMSes do that). You don't want to crash because a short spike causing a too low voltage. No undervoltage protection!

How many amps does this thing give you when charging? OMG 600€, I think this isn't worth it You can just buy a EUC with a bigger battery for this money.

Moved out of Offtopic. This is about EUCs after all.

Really? Wow!

When even the Ali sellers don't want to bother with the Monster Pro QC... I'd wait a bit before I buy one!

Love your enthusiasm for such a DIY project! But: The overwhelming power draw for a EUC is wind resistance. So a treadmill will in no way give meaningful range numbers. You would actually have to ride that fast, or own a wind tunnel that matches the treadmill speed while you ride on the treadmill (the wind resistance is mostly from the rider). A treadmill alone won't tell you anything useful about range. You can merely measure your rolling resistance, which is the small part of the overall power usage.

Attach a bicycle bell to your wrist guards. A normal one, or a finger bell (they're smaller). I sceptical about wearing the finger bell on a finger like intended, because who knows what that might do in a crash. But on the wrist guard it will work just as well. Or a bike bell like this, should be super easy to strap it to the wrist guard:

Believe it or not, this is not the first time this idea has come up And it would work.

@AtlasP Thank you Half of writing it down is to understand it better myself. I don't envy the manufacturers having to deal with this as well as the real world behavior of all the (cheap) electronics. The motor's max speed is directly proportional to the voltage. A 100V wheel can be literally 20% faster than a 84V wheel with the same motor (24s to 20s is 20% more). Your 80% alarm speed would always be 20% higher, so you do get the speedup in reality. It certainly helps that, for a given power draw, the current is lower on a high voltage wheel. That can also help if one of the warnings or firmware limitations is at a fixed maximum current. But you can be literally faster on a higher voltage. Not sure what you mean by capacity, but a cell has a certain capacity (in Wh), no matter how the battery is configured. Same number of cells = same battery size. A higher voltage means you have less flexibility in making different battery sizes, because for example you have to go in multiples of 24 cells (100V) instead of 20 cells (84V). And you could argue, for the same battery size, more serial cells (higher voltage) could mean less parallel cells, so less current possible and a higher voltage drop. But in terms of power draw, the higher voltage balances that out. And in reality, they usually just make the batteries 20% bigger in 100V wheels compared to 84V wheels, for example the V11 (84V, 1500Wh) and Begode 100V 1800Wh wheels are both 4p, so same current and voltage drop.

Warnings are complicated. On the one hand, manufacturers clearly could implement much better warnings. On the other hand, reliable warnings are really hard to get right. - As for "why"... Our electric motors work like this: A given motor has a fixed maximum speed. That speed depends on the voltage (which you see as battery percentage) applied to the motor. Higher voltage, higher max speed. 100V wheels are faster than 84V wheels using the same motor. A full battery allows for a higher max speed than an empty battery. The motor torque falls towards zero at the max speed. Torque is what keeps you upright and balanced. So you need to stay below the max speed, with a decent safety margin. Running out of torque means an overlean crash. Two things reduce torque: Going fast. As said above, the closer you are to the max speed of your motor, the less spare torque you have as a safety margin. Accelerating (drawing power from the battery). That drops the battery voltage, which means your motor's max speed suddenly falls. The harder you accelerate, the worse the voltage drop, the more your max speed is temporarily lower. (Also you could simply temporarily draw more power from the battery than it can provide at all. That is technically also a voltage drop - to nothing at all, so at any speed you are faster than you can be.) So you have a torque budget. The faster you ride, the smaller it is. And accelerating eats into the budget temporarily, while you accelerate. If at any point you get over the limit, that's an overlean. As you might guess, the easiest way to get an overlean is to ride very fast and then accelerate hard. That's how all the "famous" overleans happen, where the crazy riders go 50mph on NYC streets and then accelerate a bit more and... well, boom. To be fair, this is how they find out what they can and can't do on a given wheel You could have an overlean by accelerating crazy hard at a more normal speed, but in practice that rarely happens, and only on wheels with small batteries (think V8). Small batteries distribute the power draw among less battery cells, so the voltage drop is higher, and also the battery might simply be overwhelmed more easily. A modern big battery wheel (think V11) is virtually impossible to overlean from anything but too high speed. A V8, you might be able to overpower it at 20kph if you really try and weigh 120kg. To summarize: If you just go fast enough, you can overlean any wheel. In theory and practice, no way around it. The motor has a max speed, and self-balancing entails that the wheel can't outvote you if you lean it. So if you keep leaning, it must go faster and faster and faster... till it can't. In reality, tiltback is a great way to stop this. The wheel will tilt back, it is uncomfortable and unergonomic to stand on the tilted pedals (but you could!), so you automatically slow down to make the pedals flat and comfortable again. In practice a wheel can quite effectively slow you down if it wants to. If you just accelerate hard enough, you can (mostly theoretically) overlean any wheel. So: high speed, hard acceleration, low battery charge, and things that weaken the battery (= cold battery) are what kills you. Especially in combination. Now to the warnings: All the various "80%" and "high speed" alarms just mean... you're at 80% (or whatever) of the max motor speed for the given voltage. Voltage is battery charge, so that's why these alarms appear at lower speeds the less battery charge you have. Such alarms are easy in theory and easy to implement. You know the max speed for a given motor and battery voltage, no uncertainty here. Choose your 80% or 75% or 70% of that speed, make the wheel beep/tiltback then, done! If you accelerate, the voltage drops, and the alarm automatically kicks in at the now lower max speed. Low battery? Means lower voltage, means the alarm kicks in at a lower speed. And so on. It automatically adapts. In theory, that's the only alarm you will ever need. It will always sound if you get too close to low torque. Problem solved! (No.) Now the problem is: accelerating. You can accelerate hard, and you might be on the ground before the alarm had a chance to warn you. That could always happen if you already in the low margin regime (= you're riding "too" fast). How big do you want your safety margin for accelerations to be? The harder the accelerations you want to cover, the more you need to reduce the alarm speed. So your 80% alarm suddenly becomes a 60% alarm or 40% alarm? Do you want to add any other kinds of alarms, for example one that reacts to a voltage drop, not the voltage itself? It's a delicate question when the alarms should sound, how they should work, etc. There's no easy formula here. And worst of all, it's a trade off between safety and your wheel's capability (the all-important top speed!). So this requires effort, experimenting, real world experience to get it right for various situations and wheels. The manufacturers are getting better (e.g. pedals getting soft when you draw a lot of power to discourage further hard acceleration) but I'm sure they could do a much, much better job here. In reality, all this doesn't matter too much. An overlean from anything but going too fast is extremely rare. If you always stay 10kph below the beep speed of your wheel, have a big battery, ride with a charged battery, make sure the battery isn't really cold, and are mindful that the faster you are the softer your accelerations should be... you will not get an overlean unless you intend to Side note: a 20kg super powerful wheel won't happen (soon) precisely because you need a big battery for that (safeguard against voltage drop from hard accelerations), which increases the weight.

No. You need to regularly charge to 100% for the cell balancing to happen. Otherwise the battery will die much faster because some cells are always more stressed than the others and fail first. Store at 80%, maybe. But that really only applies to long term storage (weeks and months). And then it doesn't have to be 80%. It should not be close to 100% (full) or too empty so the voltage might drop too low from some vampire drain or whatever. It's not an exact number. "80%" merely means "not too full, not too empty" because apparently that's what stresses the battery over long time spans. And I guess you can charge to 80% most of the time. But so far nobody has seen any battery degradation, even if regularly charging to 100% (and even storing there). So not sure if the effort is worth it. I'd rather have less mental hassle, the range guarantee, and more safety from charging to full when I might need it. - 80% would be 80% battery voltage. What that exactly is depends on the used 100% and 0% voltages, so you already see it's not exact because manufacturers can use different numbers there. E.g. 16X: min voltage is 20*3.15V = 63V, max voltage is 84V, so 80% would be 63V + 0.8 * (84V-63V) = 79.8V. If you're wondering, I stopped riding over the winter and my ACM was somewhere around 70% battery after the last ride. That's how it has been since then. Didn't bother with anything but "not full, not too empty".

In principle, your legs don't have to touch the wheel at all. You can do everything with your feet via the pedals. Only reason to "grab" the wheel with your legs is when you want to apply hard acceleration e.g. forcing it up a steep hill. Or if that's simply more comfortable for you. Don't overthink, and trust your intuition on what is comfortable, relaxing, and works for you. There's no right and wrong, just what you like best. Also, 2 days is nothing. You'll get much better and ride more easily. Just pump it up to full and see how it works for you. If that's too unstable, lower the pressure bit by bit until you like it. If there's no difference, higher pressure is better as it gives you less rolling resistance and the wheel can react more directly. With the suspension, you don't need the lower tire pressure for cushioning like on other wheels.

I don't think he rides anymore. In HK you can't, they have some ridiculous restrictions or EUCs might be banned altogether, something like that.

The question of donations has come up a few times. So far he always said he doesn't want any. Your posts here are your contributions You can see some prices here: https://invisioncommunity.com/buy

This is nonsense. Make and publish the videos you want, don't let others dictate what you do, especially if you already made the effort My personal opinion: the entire "hide and hope for the best" approach that is used as an argument against your video is dumb. And so are "license plates" on EUCs. But people should be allowed to have opinions either way. If you want to say something, say it