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  1. Selling my Sherman Max EUC (Electric Unicycle) (batch 2) with only 89 miles. It comes with Freemotion pedals ($220) a Sur Ron seat ($160), Charger, and Grizzla pads ($150). Selling for $3650.
  2. Just wanted to make Sherman owners aware of current information found on the Veteran Sherman Telegram, regarding cracked and faulty Sherman rims! These following photos include owners that have just received Brand New wider rims in some cases, Only to find large cracks and voids in their rims - THIS IS NOT the result of abuse or damage to the wheel. It will pay for owners to regularly check your rims, whether you are on version 1 or the New wider version 2 rims in light of this apparent weakness. Version 1 40mm wide RIM Version 2 60mm wide RIM Version 2 60mm wide RIM Version 1 40mm wide RIM Version 2 60mm wide RIM These last 2 photos are from one owner that had already had a Brand New 60mm wide cracked rim sent out, Only to have had this sent to him as a replacement with this huge void in the material. Video and some of the previous photos courtesy of Roger Hajali via Telegram. Please carry out regular checks on your Sherman rims guys. Edit: @meepmeepmayer maybe this could be another topic worthy of pinning due to it being of a safety concern?
  3. I’m interested in knowing what firmware revisions are out there at the moment for the Sherman. Mine arrived to me in late October 2020 with FW 1053, and I’ve just received the 1055 update chip. I have seen others here have 1056, which apparently addresses pedal dip on turns. I realise that there’s no release notes or change logs with this so it is mainly what is noticeable to you. I’ll start: 1053 - my only experience with the Sherman so far. It is stable and rides well, except for an unsettling forward dip when I make a turn (especially at slower speeds)
  4. I've owned H5102, C-186, and K262. For street use, I like H5102's behavior, but I'm nervous with it around broken glass because the tread seems very thin. C-186 is actually more carefree on the street for me, since the thick tread seems so robust to damage (but carving is very different). I've ridden C-1488 and generally like it, but it wears out very fast. Other possibilities below- has anyone tried these? Thx __ Kenda K340, 2.75-14 35P: CST CM610 2.75-14 35P or 49P (not available in USA) : CST C6004 2.75-14 41P (thx @fbhb) : Kenda K272 2.75-14 35P (not available in USA) : CST C137 2.75-14 41P : @EMA likes it CST C113 2.75-14 35P : (fits nicely) ContiScoot 80/90B14 46P (tubeless): (left, vs 1488 right) Michelin Pilot Street 80/100B14 49L (tube; discontinued?) or 80/90 46P (tubeless) or 70/90 40P (tubeless) : Michelin Pilot Street 2 80/90-14 46S (tubeless) Michelin City Pro (not available in USA?) 80/90 14 46P - too wide for MSX/MSP . OK for RS and heavier EUCs. 70/90-14 40P - ez fit Michelin City Extra 80/90-14 46P (tubeless) - fits S22 rim nicely IRC NR77 80/90B14 40P (fits MSX/MSP but only if your shell is centered) 70/90B14 34P (more clearance) Avon AM63 Viper Stryke 80/90B14 40S : Bridgestone 80/90 -14 40P BATTLAX SC (tubeless) (thx @Steve Jo) or 70/90-14 34P (tubeless) (thx @XaBi) Eakia / Jiluer J-1836 18x3.0 : Jiluer 820 (J-820) 2.75-14 (tubeless) Kingsong S22 OEM tire ChaoYang H587 18x3.0 : ChaoYang H-666, 18x3.0 ewheels has stock again (May 2022) Poor fit on 60mm wide Sherman rims. CST C-1593 18x3.0 : (unknown) P218 2.75-14 35P : Shinko SR567 80/90-14 43P (tubeless) Shinko SR898 80/80-14 43P (tubeless) Shinko SR877 80/90-14 40P (tubeless) or 70/90-14 34P (tubeless) @houseofjob also had a lovely reply to the Sherman thread:
  5. @supercurio and @gon2fast provoked me to do this. I had ZERO intentions of upgrading the sheman rim or tire. I had no issues from the v1 rim and the offroad tire is GREAT! I can't forget to also blame @RetroThruster for pointing out that I seem to be a street demon primarily and perhaps a street tire would suit. @Dennis Hagov also provoked me with well recieved advice. Just got a few minutes for an INITIAL opinion of the tire. So far, I am quite pleaased. 1) its so quiet! 2) the sound of tiny rocks on pavement. The tire is sticky and tiny rocks get tossed around. This is a GOOD thing, as it indicates I have a nice tacky compound for traction on pavement. Gravel seems loud as the tire is so quiet otherwise. Even brand new, tacky and inspires confidence. 3) at higher pressure (35-45psi), it takes off like a rocket and needed much less rider input than the offroad. It also stopped exactly as I would suspect. 4)Smooth with no hop or vibration up to 30mph. I havent had a chance to go full send, but it was stable and smooth at 30mph and no wobble during 'hard' braking. 5)It simply feels planted. Its not a matter of feeling all the vibrations in the road (you dont), it just a mere solid planted feeling. As if the tire was simply firmly on the ground and you can just FEEL the contact patch sticking/rolling along smoothly. Like the feel of a good warm racing slick... planted. 6)Not quite as soft. It didnt 'boing' at 35psi, but it didnt soak up the bumps either. Of course, Im 130lbs and dont ride 35psi. Once lowered to 20psi, I lost a little bit of that sensitivity to rider input, but got back a soft ride. It didnt feel washy at lower psi, simply less responsive and more comfortable. During the hop hop hop, test, I would say it feels 5psi harder than the offroad at a given pressure. I dropped it to 15psi and it gained more plush feel, but began to feel sluggish. I found 20psi to be the answer. I ride the offroad at 20psi. The angel at 20psi is a little 'harder' than the OffRoad at 20psi, but more of a solid bounce than an unpredictable one. I found it didnt continue to bounce at all, so the little bumps were a one and done w/o carryover. The OR tire seemed to like to bounce less, but settle later. Neither tire seeem to be a jarring hit at these pressures. The angel does instill more confidence that a hard hit would be mitigated and protect the rim better, at same or lower pressure than the OR tire. I could easily see running 15psi without issue. 7)You aint gna belive this, so Ill skip it, go to 8 and tell you anyhow. 8)More stable slow/low/no speed. Even mounting the wheel was smooth. I gained a year of skill in a simple tire change. I went from sketchy and tolerable starting, to ease like it was my ks18L. I dont understand it, as the profile is more narrow. 9)You aint gna believe it so we'll skip to double digits as thats more credible. 10) 180 turnarounds, 360 on a dime, easily same lane. Stop and go... ALL easier and less pedal scrape. I have NO idea why, as my pedals should be 'lower' now. Because of the profile, turn arounds with MAJOR wheel lean, are predictable! My old OR tire had a habit of going a little unpredictable at no speed 180's and kind of liked to fall over too far on me. Rider error I'm sure, but I dont suffer this on the angel. When you lean it WAY over, it just keeps doing what you would expect. End result... playing around more like its a nimble wheel and ENJOYING turning around now. 11) No opinion on gyro effect at speed. I havent ridden it thru turns at speed enough to comment on the 30mph+ gyro effect. I did notice that if you play with low speed 180's and dont commit to the turn, it will try to right itself very easily. Maybe the OR tire just liked to stay leaned once it reached a certain point, and the angel doesnt have this habit? I just know that once you dedicate to the slow speed lean and put faith in the linear response of the profile, the angel works great. I'll have to go on a proper ride at speed to evaluate its turning response. So far it seems to be similar to the OR in terms of rider input needed, but perhaps more predictable? I'll expand on this once I have any REAL experience with it. 12)It looks badass... 13)Up to operating temperature quickly. This surprised me. After just a couple miles of <25mph speeds on cold asphalt, I noted the tire was quite warm and coming up to temp nicely. Hell yes! Those of us who have ridden bikes KNOW how great a tire does when it comes to temps. I'd suspect that 200lbs on 1 tire at sustained 30mph, will get this tire to stick like glue! I havent time to check if it eats itself at sustained high speeds on hot asphalt. Lets hope it doesn't cross over into TOO hot, but I doubt it will. 14)Tolerable on grass. I cant say if its great or not on grass, but i did ride thru my yard and it didnt slip. This is the same yard that my mten doesnt like. I'll have to ride around until I slip and fall off in the grass, to comment much further. I also have ZERO opinion on offroad traction, tho I will collect data on that soon. I doubt it will be very good, honestly. 15)Its only $40. I didnt care about the cost. I was quite shocked to find it so cheap. It could have been double the price and I wouldnt have worrried. For a mere $40, it runs damn true, and I can't see it wearing out very quickly at all. Fwiw, China owns 40% of Pirelli now, go figure! 16) The tire itself came true, overnight (revzilla) and was stupid easy to mount! 17) Chicken strips. Even already, I am utilizing nearly the entire profile of the tire. There won't be any chicken strips for dinner soon! 17)I am keeping it and am VERY excited about it. I have my old tire and will change back if I EVER think the angel is not performing. For now, its just a win win win for my riding preferences. Unless I encounter instability at max speeds, I can't fathom switching back. For you off road riders, this doesnt apply. And there you have it. Somehow a 'harder' and 'shorter' tire, is enabling me to control the wheel and NOT scrape pedals near as easily. I was worried about it being too hard, but tire pressure variances and how it responds to them, mitigates that worry. I think the 80/80/14 size IS the proper size for my needs. Tho it's 13mm (or so) shorter and 3mm wider, it doesnt act like you would suspect, based on those values alone. Pedal dip is pretty bad. This is a failing of the wheel, and i think its worse because I am IN FACT turning around faster and acting more irradic in how I CHOOSE to ride it. Now that I CAN flip around smoothly much easier, i AM. This relates to even more pedal dip, tho the way the tire behaves so well, pedal dip isnt nearly as unmanageable. I hope to get a more thorough idea of the tire, once I suit up and 'fly' to the local gas station. SO far, I have little worry that it won't perform as expected. Hopefully I'll have a boring video to capture my further testing/rides. Shameless plug.. Anyone need an euc themed t-shirt with their own logo or color/image ideas? How about one designed by MY scatter brain? Or maybe you just want to chase my affiliate link to ewheels and get your own wheel? Cmon, do it, what are you waiting for?
  6. This is the first time posting, but I have read the forum for years. I crashed my Sherman yesterday doing 25mph and got to ride in an ambulance to the hospital. My tire went flat after I hit some potholes and down I went! I wound up with a broken ankle and road rash(I was wearing protective gear and a helmet). My question is: How can I keep the tire from going flat? I am running the knobby tire and I use Slime. I felt the tire before I rode and thought it might be a little low. I rode 15 miles before the crash and it rode fine. Does anyone use a Tire Monitoring System?
  7. Hey Everyone! For the past 3 years I have ridden my Kingsong 18XL everywhere and anywhere. I would say I've become somewhat of an advanced rider over the 3 years with that wheel. It is the wheel that I learned to ride on, and truth be told I haven't touched any other EUC's ever aside from my 18XL. That is until yesterday! Yesterday I payed a visit to an EUC distributor and touched another EUC for the first time! In fact not only did I get to touch them, I was able to ride SIX new wheels! 😎 It might sound kind of funny to some of you, but I was like a kid in a candy shop! The wheels I tried for the first time were- M10, V8, 16X, S18, the Sherman, and the S20. Obviously coming from nothing but an 18XL, the Sherman and the S20 stole the show for me. So to get to the point of my question- I rode the S20 for maybe 30- 40 minutes (wow what a good looking wheel), and the Sherman for about 1 hour. My thoughts after riding these wheels- I expected more from the S20. It hurt my legs quite a bit (probably just the pads) but I had a hard time feeling in control of the wheel. I also thought the suspension would have been a little better. I did play around with the suspension settings, but thought it would have been a little bit better. Granted, the wheel felt quite nimble for its size. The quality of the wheel is worrisome. While visiting the show room, another customer checking out the S20 broke the power button right off the wheel. We were still able to turn it on using a pin 📌 though lol. In regards to the Sherman- I expected good things from it, and it gave me more than I expected! I went in fully thinking that the S20 would give the Sherman a run for its money, but I found myself soon drooling over the Sherman with its stable and strong stance. With what felt like endless power it became an extension of my body very easily. Yes the bumps were a bit harsher without suspension. But not as big of a factor as I thought it would be. Seated riding was a breeze, and I love the idea of a bigger battery (something that concerned me about the S20). So after riding all these wheels (with most of my time on the S20 and Sherman) I feel like I'm leaning more towards buying a Sherman over an S20. I wanted to know what your thoughts are comparing these 2 wheels! For those who have tried the S20 and or Sherman. Yeah I would rather own both, but for me that's not an option unfortunately 😕 FULL DISCLAIMER! I only had under 2 hours combined with the 2 wheels. My opinions could change if I had more time. These are just my initial thoughts. Please let me know what you think! Thanks 😊
  8. Quick question for you guys, do the Inmotion V11 honeycomb pedals work on a Veteran Sherman? If so, would you guys recommend them over the stock sherman Pedals?
  9. This has been mentioned back and forth in some of the larger threads but didn't seem to come to a definite conclusion. The first batches come with GX16-3 two pin ports that support, according to official specs 7A, according to Veteran 5A(?) The next batches have GX16-5 four pin which official specs give as 5A so 10A with doubled pins (8A according to veteran?) So the first batches can use 2x5A, (maybe 2x7A?) Next batches 2x8A (?) Is the total charging limited to 10A as I seem to have seen here and there, or could we target 14-16?
  10. no issue with my wheel, bt lou error message saga continues. important for every Veteran Sherman owner I got a modification recommended via eWheels to prevent damage to the bms that can result in this error (bt lou) message. the mod is simple, remove the side panels and grind (dremel) out the 3 ribs shown in photograph. I had a series of emails with eWheels to confirm the area to grind - easy to overthink, but bottom line is just grind out these three on each panel. more detail in video
  11. Way back in September last year, I added a second genuine Leaperkim Veteran-450 5A charger to arrive with my Veteran Sherman order, to give myself the option to quick charge if necessary. When the wheel finally arrived in early November, I initially Only used one charger at a time to test that both were working correctly. I think it was most probably only the second time of using one of mine, again just with one on its own, whilst it was nearing 90+% charge I heard a loud "pop" - the charge cycle stopped and I quickly turned off the power supply and unplugged the power lead! When I had a sniff at the charger to see if I could detect the usual smell of burnt components there was obviously that tell-tale odour most definitely present! The wheel would not continue to charge with my second working charger plugged in and the display was then stuck on: "ECHAr". I contacted my seller, who in turn contacted Veteran for advice on the solution to this. There is also a topic posted HERE where another owner had this very same error message on his Sherman's display, but in his case the wheel was faulty straight out of the box! Interestingly, after opening the failed charger up, I found that there was a burnt/damaged component right next to the capacitors as well as one of the fuses on the charger's board that had blown when it failed. Following this, I decided to open up the good working charger to compare the two and found that the capacitors in the failed one were of a much lower uf/size rating than the one that still works (I'm very concerned that this may have been a factor and could also be for other Sherman owners if true!). Original Leaperkim Veteran-450 5A charger comparison, both with different sized capacitors I also passed on the above information and the following photos to my seller so that they could share it with Veteran to get the factory's help with their assessment/course of action. Unfortunately, I only got to ride the Sherman 4 times before this incident happened and really loved the ride experience, huge range and all the other Sherman highlights that owners had been raving about! Leaperkim Veteran-450 5A charger that fried, with 150uf capacitors Leaperkim Veteran-450 5A charger, still working with 220uf capacitors Now finally, after 2 months of waiting the 2 warranty items have arrived courtesy of communication with my seller and their lengthy communication back and forth with Veteran themselves, to confirm what needed to be replaced! I have been sent a New control board, which coincidently is changed from my original L20-34 version compared to the New L20-42 version supplied by seller via Veteran and a replacement Leaperkim 5A charger. (comparison photos below show a different/individual transformer board) Old Control Board is at the Top L20-34. New Control Board is at the Bottom L20-42 Now, given that I already had concerns that whilst one of my chargers had the larger 220uf capacitors and the one that fried only had 150uf capacitors (photos above), the replacement one that arrived also only had 150uf capacitors! Again, more concern on my part as I had specifically asked what version of the charger I would receive Only to be told by my seller and I quote: “It is the charger of the latest version of capacitor.” So I decided to contact Veteran directly to try and get some confirmation on which charger is actually their latest version, but as is usual no real clarity was forthcoming (read: we don’t know, we just get whatever YZ-Power builds for us!!!). Suffice it to say that Veteran could Only confirm for me what I already knew in my own mind, that the charger with the larger 220uf capacitors was the “better” one to use! New Leaperkim Veteran-450 5A charger opened up New Leaperkim Veteran-450 5A charger 150uf capacitor next to the intact component that fried in the first charger On that basis and on my own feelings regarding the 150uf charger failing initially and almost instantly, I will not be in any hurry to Test or even use the New 150uf charger, especially with a Brand New control board fitted to the Sherman! My main reason for ordering a second charger in the first place with the wheel, was to give myself the option if required rather than a regular need to charge at 10A and it's also useful to have a back up. So from now on I will Only be using the originally supplied 220uf charger for the foreseeable future and hope that it at least offers me some longevity and reliability! Unfortunately, I am not the Only one to suffer this issue with what is essentially a YZ-Power 450 5A charger frying itself and also taking out the charge circuit on the Sherman control board! @null very recently posted a topic HERE that I have also commented on, where he had the exact same experience with a YZ-Power 450 5A 150uf capacitor version of the charger and the very same component frying on the charger’s board, also killing off his Sherman’s control board! As mentioned earlier, getting any firm word on the random build quality/components used and what is actually inside the ‘stock standard’ version of the currently supplied Leaperkim Veteran-450 5A charger is next to impossible! Every owner of a Sherman needs to be made aware of this potential to not only fry the charger itself, but to render your wheel useless until a replacement control board can be sourced and fitted, which in some cases can be a matter of months! P.S. On the subject of fitting the Sherman control board, it may be common knowledge to most that due to the way the board is mounted to the heatsink, the whole control board assembly will not come out of the bay without either splitting the wheel or dismantling just the board from the heatsink!? I was able to make a small mod to the Sherman’s control board bay to allow the board’s easy removal/fitting should I ever need to remove it again in future. I have created a separate topic explaining the steps involved in case anyone is interested : HERE
  12. What are your impressions of the impact of the firmware on the driving characteristics of FW1.0.58. I mean subjective evaluation because officially nothing has changed that would affect the pedal dip acceleration or braking. After update to 1.0.58 i can say here is diference in riding "feel" for me wery positive way. Straight after update (i not calibrate level yet) and my first ride on new FW with knobby tire 28PSI diference is big great job Veteran company now is sherman worth XXX dollars more . I have my "test 5km circuit" where i testing PSI, pedal adjustment ,riding modes, "track" include inclines and many types of surface and roundabout for dip testing. Positives: Firmware 1.0.58 is definetly harder in medium mode now is wery close to gotway medium mode or KS16X hard mode this mean you can acelerate more efortless. Simply say aceleration curve is stronger. Sherman is more nimble. Important thing whan need to be say on every mainboard revision FW can be diferent feel this is just FACT confirmed by testing Ks16X on board revisions 1.4 vs 1.5 where FW 1.05 was great on revision 1.4 and very bad on revison board 1.5 Same be propably on sherman and board revisions think about this before comment! Pedal DIP: My original FW was 1.0.56 and comapre to this Pedal dip on 1.0.58 have hudge improvents in long inclines and sharp turning too is strong change on ALL modes soft/medium/hard Pedal hardnes: Pedal is harder definetly medium mode is like/almost medium on MSP 2500W or hard mode on KS16X what is big improvement for me and something i wish many time sherman be like this. PA: PA pedal i ride before was PA +1 this mean now PA+3 but if i use PA adjustment sherman lost efortless aceleration what gain on PA +0 this is subjective but this is what i feel and my testing always end this results. Negatives: Braking is same like on 1.0.56 or little worse i canot decide if is downgrade or upgrade becasue when i break intensively pedals dip under presure very deep to level where i am close to fall behind. Veteran sherman have speed motor we(riders) must acept this becasue is just fact. This is subjective and i am very heavy rider 260lbs +-120kg with gear this is on edge technical spec what sherman have this must be write here for fair play and i compare braking to MSP2500W or KS16X where i never experience braking pedal DIP. (on FW 1.0.56 i have 2 falls to my ass becasue braking dip on sherman both in low speed) Speculative: After my test circuit when i check data in eucworld i realize on inclines where normaly eucworld report 6000W now report 4000W and all AMP numbers is lover compared to numbers on 1.0.56. Motor sound in inclines is little diferent but strugle vibration in same when i am around 3500W+ reported power. Results: Im happy i do this upgrade over my fear and risk brick sherman for me is many positives and this is what i want long time make sherman more efortless to ride. Personlay i think this FW and update tool is LEAK and hope this firmware is safe for public use/to ride now i have big anxiety ride this FW1.0.58 becasue i have strong PTSD after my asphalt faceplant on MSP HT in 30+miles(55km/h) becasue i overlean EUC. My sherman speed limit/tiltback is 43km/h (25miles) im not aceleration/speed demon anymore.
  13. But not without hiccups lol. Decided to split the shells and fold the non motor wire side over. Did the tube change, flipping the valve to the upper side (opposite side from stock), to make it easier in future swaps. Was in the process in putting everything back together and noticed the stupid air vents fell inward. I thought those would've been glued or something to one side. ugh, took everything back apart to get the shells wide enough to slide those back in place while closing the shells back up. I usually ride 24-28psi, but I pumped it up to 30psi. No more under 30 for me because I think the tire slides, dragging the tube with it on low psi, pulling at the valve being held in the tight rim hole. 2nd tube change in a month for this wheel on 24-28psi. First swap was under warranty at 2 weeks old so the roll bars came out nice and easy for me lol. Splitting the shells in half saved me from researching what socket I would need to ruin with a grinder, so I took the lazy way. Seemed it could've went a bit smoother if the wires were a bit longer tho. phew, all done. Sorry no pics, no patience to host anything
  14. Made my own one-off velocity seat for the Sherman. Already had the wood and the foam insert. Got the cover from Amazon and the rail clamps from Aliexpress. Links for those are below. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HQQVYL7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001165093264.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.4b284c4dTrLkRs
  15. Guys, i need help. I really want a sherman, but dont know how to get my hands on one, they dont sell in Norway and i'm having a hard time finding a way to get one. I have been riding for 7 years, and I love how the sherman looks and operates. My driving style is sharp, fast, quick turns and i drive on asphalt not offroad. I have only been riding 25 km/h wheels for 7 years, and i think its time for some more speed and range. Anyways, i have fallen in love with the sherman, and that is what i mostly want, but i can go for another one if like it a lot. I know the Gotway monster pro v3 is fast etc, but is it hard to manover or is it only for high speed? Feel free to recommend me a wheel from the websites i link down below. I can get an EUC from the websites linked: https://www.e-wheels.no/enhjuling/ https://kjempetoff.no/collections/selvbalanserende-enhjulinger
  16. Hi everyone! I'm ordering a Sherman V2 with wider rim and will swap the tire for summer riding. I was gonna go for the Kenda K340: the Sherman street tire and stock Begode EX & EX.N tire after briefly trying @Mike Sacristan's EX.N and liking its turning behaviour. However, after chatting with Denis Hagov from EUCSALE who much prefer motorcycle tires and seeing how @iWheel of Sweden also has a large collection of them, I wonder if there would be a better option? I'm 65kg / 146 lbs and riding will be 70% street, 30% light-medium off-road. My favourite tire so far is the Chao Yang H-5167 on the 16X, 21-25 PSI depending on conditions. I don't like the CX-321 on 16X or stock CST tire on the Nikola: no appreciation for tramlining of square-ish profiles. Tires considered: Kenda K340 Pirelli Angel scooter rear Michelin City Pro Michelin Pilot Street The main questions would be: Will motorcycle tires be significantly stiffer off road, on gravel / rock / rooty terrain, lacking in suppleness of a lighter tire like the Kenda K340 and lacking grip outside of asphalt? MC tires are designed for heavier vehicles with suspension after all. What do you gain from a MC tire, what do you lose? Would the thread pattern of Kenda K340 be best of these options for mixed surface riding? What would be the right dimensions for the Sherman V2 and its 6cm wide rim. Edit: after some more research, I realise that these are considered moped tires for the K340 (source) or scooter tires for the others (source Pirelli, source Michelin) - not bicycle vs motorcycle.
  17. Hi all, Looking for some input, especially from those who has experience with both the Sherman and V11, or if you by chance have both. Your input would be appreciated. I've been riding the V10F and thinking of upgrading to either a Sherman or V11. I'm 58, 6' 1" and around 110Kg/240lbs fully geared up. I'm not a speed demon and looking for a stable and reliable ride. Majority of the riding is on the streets and hardly any trails. Most of the riding is leisurely cruising around ~ 20 mph. Don't use it for commuting, more for cruising around the city. Ride stability is an important factor for me. I'm a beginner with around 200+ miles so far. Interested in your experience with either EUC and your recommendations and pros/cons. Lately, been hearing V11 having motherboard issues and the Sherman is heavy and some crack rim problems. Thanks in advance.
  18. Question for those of you who will be getting the Veteran Sherman. Which tire/tyre will you be requesting with your order?
  19. I currently own a 16x because it seemed the most versatile wheel for me at the time (2019)- I could ride it to work from home and back, or throw it in the car and use it as a last mile commuter when I traveled into the city. Now I'm looking to get a Sherman since I'm a relatively large guy (235 lbs and 6'2") and planned on using it as a commuter wheel- the 16x gets the job done between work and home but I am frequently being passed by cars doing 30+ mph making the 16x a bit dangerous considering traffic (while I've hit 31mph on it, I don't feel comfortable sustaining anything above 28mph on the 16x). With the Sherman, I'd use it to keep up with the flow of traffic while I'm commuting from home to work. Unfortunately, the Sherman is not a wheel I'm going to throw in the back of my car for a last mile commuter wheel. Since the 16x probably won't get much use comparatively, I don't know how much sense it makes to keep it as just a last mile commuter. I was looking at a 2nd smaller wheel to pretty much throw in the car and screw around at the destination- ideally something with a lot of low end torque that I can safely cruise at 20mph if I needed to travel that last mile. I am torn between keeping the 16x for this, or trading it for the MCM5v2 or MTen3. So my question really is what would pair well with the Sherman? Should I keep my 16x or sell it and get a MCM5v2, 84v 460wh Mten3, or 84v 512wh Mten3? (Or another option that I haven't considered)
  20. I really would like a USB charger on the Veteran Sherman. I feel like this is the one essential accessory missing from this wheel. I've have successfully added this type of 12v adapter to other devices for convenience. Without yet having the Veteran Sherman there is no way for me to know the best place to tap into the board for power. I do however think this would be a great addition as it would not only allow you to add a USB adapter but just about any 12v accessory. If your only looking for a USB connection the other adapter (see photo) would work as well. Ideas, thoughts, suggestions or alternatives are greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  21. I have watched euc youtubers and read these forums of varies types , they all insist on promoting eucs but never discuss the future of these machines as vehicles . If eucs are no more niche ridables they must come under law . Some campaigns out there want them legalized in Europe. Ustride wanted 40mph wheel he has gotten his wish but now wants a 60mph wheel. I want see where riders stand on the future of these machines . So what group do you belong? a) Want fast wheels (motor bike) but legal = number plates , insurance etc. b)Want fast wheels(motor bike) but not legal = private property rides ,tracks etc. c)Want fast wheels( motor bike) but with current status = niche and illegal and laws undefined. d)limited wheels equivalent to peddle bikes but legal= given the freedoms and less restrictions like peddle bikes.
  22. Has anyone else had this? I have occasionally noticed that EUC World shows a negative distance sometimes. It might be the Sherman actually. I think I saw a negative value on its display - happens when it’s been on charge for a week or so. I got this android watch cheaply, and I LOVE it for EUC world. It is brilliant. Definitely going to support the project, so thank you to the development team.
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